Marzocchi was always really good at honouring the warranties I processed, things like abnormal stanchion wear was usually covered no worries (unlike some other brands)
And yes the whole HS stack can lift away from the piston, ie the preload is applied to the clamp shim instead of the face shim...
I never had a close look inside the seal head (complete disassembly of the rebound piston to remove it was a tad fiddly so didn't go that far just for a look.) but I am certain it is a standard hydraulic shaft seal.
Cartridge service is easy, the damper removes in one piece and you can remove...
Stanchions are the same as a 888 so a yellow fox spring will fit the ID of the tube, as long as it sits on the spring seat OK.
Damper bleeds off excess oil at full bottom out, so position sensitive. There is a port that sits where the spring-backed IFP reaches at BO for it to bleed out. As for...
Pretty comparable service intervals, spring leg is just as good as the 888, especially with a good lube in there. Damper possibly lasts better than the 888. Makes for easier servicing.
Compression is easier to revalve than anything else around, rebound is pretty straightforward too, not much...
The 60ml in each leg is the lube oil only, the cartridge itself is filled up separately and takes another ~100m or so. I rebuilt a couple of our team forks recently and they were still clean inside the damper after 4 or 5 months of thrashing!
The only concern I would have about making a new bolt would be creating a stress raiser at the point where it necks down, especially if the piston bolt gets torqued pretty tight it could potentially break.
I think racetech sell shims in every oddball ID and thickness, check them out
The stock settings have probably changed from year to year, were these standard aftermarket shocks?
I would keep doing what you're doing and moving shims behind the clamp shim, that would be how I do it. If you have time for trial and error then move half of the shims back there for a super...
Last fox shock I worked on had something weird like 1/4" ID shims, OD's don't matter apart from the biggest one covering the ports and the last non-bending/clamp shim has to be the same OD.
Are these bikes low leverage as in 2:1 or more like most DH bikes around 2.5-2.8? If so I would tend...
Most of the "low" tunes I have seen are roughly 1/2 of the "medium" tune. So either remove half of the shims or say if the shims are 0.15mm thick then replace every shim with about 2x 0.1mm shims. (1 x 0.15 shim = stiffness of ~3.4 0.10mm shims)
Had a little play with a 380 today, no impact wrench for the footnuts! Also features a nifty dropstop-style anti bottoming system which should work pretty sweet. Haven't pulled a cartridge apart yet though
Sounds to me like the VA piston was blown if you had no progression before. Also the spring leg has an alloy cup in the bottom of the leg that oil has to flow through if you fill it up over about 160ml. You basically turn it in to a ported damper.
There no video, and shim diameter doesn't...
I use at least 150cc in the spring side but I don't think it would make much difference until it was up past 350cc, and even then only at the very end of stroke, which the damper leg already gives more than enough progression.
If people are happy with what they currently have then that's...
In what context? I have ridden these forks and set up countless riders from weekend warriors to world cup racers, the overwhelming feedback is the stock fork is too harsh on braking bumps (ie HSC, or the shim stack). If you back the compression adjuster out it dives too much, so a lighter stack...
6.5 is not too heavy, the stock compression stack is too firm so that is what you need to change. I weigh 70kg and I would ride the 6.5 no problem
And in a lot of cases 200lb is 7.7 spring territory
There's a few production reasons for not having a harder spring, will be interesting to hear feedback on spring rates in the new fork though. It might still happen
definitely 7.7, the 888 was so progressive and with firm stock high speed damping most people wouldn't try the 7.7 as they might have only just got full travel with the 6.5. The new fork is so much more tuneable you hsoul jump straight on a 7.7.
Double butted spokes build a far stronger wheel than SG, I wouldn't really consider SG spokes unless you are a very gentle rider and on a tight budget.
The only team wheel's I've had crack or flatspot were ones with straight gauge spokes, wheels built with double butted ones will stay round for...
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