If you have one and are the original owner how was it out of the box?Just purchased one and have a few concerns.Left side top cap cannot get loose(marzocchi said some got assembled with lock tight and to heat it up first).Compresing the fork it feels very stiff/sticky and can hear springs scraping or something making noise(Marz said that they took a little while to break in)all other includeing my 04'888 was butter out of the box.What is everybodies first hand experience?Thanks
06'888RC2X Question
- Thread starter DHRracer
- Start date
It happened exactly the same to mine. I purchased it a month ago and practically distroyed left cap trying to loose it.... Additionally, right lower is absolutely tight and both cartriges felt very raw.
Vitox found another one with exactly the same symptoms. He replaced the left lower bushing on it, but doesn't get better. It seems is a problem with the left lower drilling or milling. Now is going for guarranty... seems no other choice.
I found a friend who wanted to switch lowers to sell it in better shape and i forgot about the sticky feel. The rawness in the cartriges is close to disapear after 6-8 rides.
Add 3 more...half of my team got them this way! Stiff and a clunking sound inside. You couldn't set up sag or preload. I had mine changed within a week. 1 fork started to work proprely after some hard runs, and the other friend had changed forks lowers after some "medium" improvment.
They are all now working without problems!
They are all now working without problems!
Its totally normal. When i got mine, the springs were scraping like crazy. I had to replace the springs with the heavy ones anyways, but when i switched them, i realized the stock springs didn't have the rubber coating on them like the replacement springs did. Put in the new springs and the scraping was gone.
The break in took about 20hrs of riding, but it gets better and better every ride. It like butter now, just kind of different than the older 888's which were butter out of the box.
The break in took about 20hrs of riding, but it gets better and better every ride. It like butter now, just kind of different than the older 888's which were butter out of the box.
it took my 66RC2x 8 hours of riding for ten days at whistler till it felt perfect butter. sucks up everything. It is by far now that best feeling fork i have owned.
have you tried removing the fork from the crowns and seeing if this sticky compression is from both or just one of the legs?
Out of the box I was disapointed with mine compared to the 05 which felt great from the start. It took about 5 rides before it started to feel buttery smooth. Mine still makes a sound like oil shooting through a hole, but not like when it was new. I changed the oil after 2 rides to 10Wt FYI...
Mine was good. But I had the Works done to it. It was Tuned for me at Marz and it has been smooth as butta. :biggrin:
Is that some new sales gimmick? Yes the forks were butter before and the "works" upgrade didn't net you anything better feeling really. But for 2006 you'll definately feel a difference from a "works" over a stocker...
Works is for people that don't want to do the tuning themselves...
Is not in all 2006 888s, it seems it happened just in the latest production lots.
i got my 888 back in april. it has been amazing. i did blow one seal with dirt and got it rebuilt. Prolly could use and oil change right about now. Been a set it and forget it fork!
i've got about 20 days of riding on it and i'm gonna sell it soon for next years air model. I'm super stoked on marz.
i've got about 20 days of riding on it and i'm gonna sell it soon for next years air model. I'm super stoked on marz.
if you got a chrunching sound its most likely the spring holders are worn. you need to shave them down. UNLESS ITS BRAND NEW.
open the fork up. you need a cassette tool with no middle thing on it. then open it with that. carefully look at how it losens up(the top caps to the damping rod). then use a wrench small enough to fit in between the spring. do both. then take out the springs. the springs will be attached to a white spring holder. THAT IS WHAT IS MAKING NOISE. originally it was to hold the spring very tight so it wouldnt move on the holder. but if it gets loose you have to shave it down. it will take a while but well worth it.
open the fork up. you need a cassette tool with no middle thing on it. then open it with that. carefully look at how it losens up(the top caps to the damping rod). then use a wrench small enough to fit in between the spring. do both. then take out the springs. the springs will be attached to a white spring holder. THAT IS WHAT IS MAKING NOISE. originally it was to hold the spring very tight so it wouldnt move on the holder. but if it gets loose you have to shave it down. it will take a while but well worth it.
Can you make and post a video??
i can if you want. but ill do it tomarrow since i need some one to help take the video.Can you make and post a video??
Maybe some Ti springs will smooth it out.
This process is only for the 66 and 88 rc2x models. both use the same damping and structure. on difference is the spring size and travel.
If you are getting crunching from your fork and has not been that way for a while then this is for you.
The bike shop will not fix it since they do not know how. all they will say is to get a new cartridge.
Marzocchi WILL NOT SEND YOU THE PART NEEDED. They want you to send the fork in. THE PART COST $180.
Starting the tutorial
STEP 1
These are the tools you will need.
1. cassette tool(you can buy one without the long thing to stick through the Qucik release hole).
2. a big File. used to shave down the spring holders.
3. a wrench that can fit between the spring coils.
Step 2
this is my 66rc2x. it is being hanged so i can work on it. you must have something to hold your bike.
Step3
take off the caps and screws
Step4
Make sure it looks like this also Take The Air Out Of The Fork.
Step5
use a big socket to hold the cassette tool because you will need some leverage to open the fork.
Step6
The top cap should look like this.
Step7
now carfully push the lower crown up a bit. But not to much that oil comes out.
Step8
now use that thin wrench to hold the red nut so you can twist the can off. Twist the cap counterclockwise. or the way most things losen.
Step9
Now it should come off like this. And the rod should not sink down.
Step10
Now pull the spring half out or almost out since oil will be dripping.
Step11
Clean the spring off so oil wont get every where.
Step12
To absolutly make sure that its the springs and spring holder that are making noise. push the spring top and bottom of the white spring holder together. if you feel vibration and hear noise then that the problem. The spring holder has worn out or was not tight when made. if may not sound like its the problem since its so quite but when it in the fork and mostly hollow it echos and makes 5 times the noise when its in the fork.
Step13
Take a screw driver and stick it through the hole of the spring holder. and pull the spring off of it.
Step14
Clean off the spring holder so no oil is on it. this makes it easier to shave it down.
Step15
now shave it down evenly. it will take a bit of shaving to get what you want. but test it by putting it back on the spring and push them together. the final result should be that it is loose on the spring holder.
Step16
when you think its done, put it back on the spring holder and do the other one. its the same thing on both sides except the black spacer that has nothing to do with this process.
Step17
Make sure the rod is up so you can srew the cap on when you get the srping in.
Step18
the way it shows in the photo is not how you should try to get the cap back on. you need to compress the spring so the cap can go on and touch the threads of the rod.
Step19
Do Not Tighten very hard. just enough so it wont get loose
If you are getting crunching from your fork and has not been that way for a while then this is for you.
The bike shop will not fix it since they do not know how. all they will say is to get a new cartridge.
Marzocchi WILL NOT SEND YOU THE PART NEEDED. They want you to send the fork in. THE PART COST $180.
Starting the tutorial
STEP 1
These are the tools you will need.
1. cassette tool(you can buy one without the long thing to stick through the Qucik release hole).
2. a big File. used to shave down the spring holders.
3. a wrench that can fit between the spring coils.
Step 2
this is my 66rc2x. it is being hanged so i can work on it. you must have something to hold your bike.
Step3
take off the caps and screws
Step4
Make sure it looks like this also Take The Air Out Of The Fork.
Step5
use a big socket to hold the cassette tool because you will need some leverage to open the fork.
Step6
The top cap should look like this.
Step7
now carfully push the lower crown up a bit. But not to much that oil comes out.
Step8
now use that thin wrench to hold the red nut so you can twist the can off. Twist the cap counterclockwise. or the way most things losen.
Step9
Now it should come off like this. And the rod should not sink down.
Step10
Now pull the spring half out or almost out since oil will be dripping.
Step11
Clean the spring off so oil wont get every where.
Step12
To absolutly make sure that its the springs and spring holder that are making noise. push the spring top and bottom of the white spring holder together. if you feel vibration and hear noise then that the problem. The spring holder has worn out or was not tight when made. if may not sound like its the problem since its so quite but when it in the fork and mostly hollow it echos and makes 5 times the noise when its in the fork.
Step13
Take a screw driver and stick it through the hole of the spring holder. and pull the spring off of it.
Step14
Clean off the spring holder so no oil is on it. this makes it easier to shave it down.
Step15
now shave it down evenly. it will take a bit of shaving to get what you want. but test it by putting it back on the spring and push them together. the final result should be that it is loose on the spring holder.
Step16
when you think its done, put it back on the spring holder and do the other one. its the same thing on both sides except the black spacer that has nothing to do with this process.
Step17
Make sure the rod is up so you can srew the cap on when you get the srping in.
Step18
the way it shows in the photo is not how you should try to get the cap back on. you need to compress the spring so the cap can go on and touch the threads of the rod.
Step19
Do Not Tighten very hard. just enough so it wont get loose
great stuff thanks for posting that.
id pay special attention to the last step, its easy to break off the damper rods by overtorquing them, dont ruin your damper that way!
so, for the original question, this is not the problem, as the 888rc2x is completely different in that part, it does not have a plastic spring carrier but rather a very trick machined out alloy spring "basket".
nycurse: it seems some of the paint on the spring is coming off, ive noticed this can be problematic and sometimes its useful to remove it.
id pay special attention to the last step, its easy to break off the damper rods by overtorquing them, dont ruin your damper that way!
so, for the original question, this is not the problem, as the 888rc2x is completely different in that part, it does not have a plastic spring carrier but rather a very trick machined out alloy spring "basket".
nycurse: it seems some of the paint on the spring is coming off, ive noticed this can be problematic and sometimes its useful to remove it.
My 888 wasn't that sticky new, only when it needed the first oil change. It's been butter ever since.
That sounds like a king headset to me...
Give DHRrider some time I am sure he wil rip his fork apart (gotta measure for the ti's) , and i will bug him to get back with his findings.
Have not got it compleatly apart but comparing the RC2X springs with the earlyer years the new ones are about an inch longer.
WHAAATTTTT?? Get to work man!
I repeat....
It's not for all 888RC2X, just for the later lots... may be just the latest
It's not for all 888RC2X, just for the later lots... may be just the latest