It was done before.
The belt drive might help with too harsh pedaling and antisquat, too. 
Btw. imagine that the engine is replaced by an accu + electromotor and you have a modern e-bike design. Magic!
11 speed 11-50 cassette...
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The belt drive might help with too harsh pedaling and antisquat, too.
Btw. imagine that the engine is replaced by an accu + electromotor and you have a modern e-bike design. Magic!
For some reason this reminds me of climbing in Pisgah on a 46 llb. DH sled.the problem with using the 120T on a cassette would be chain length and derailler clearance. with the ground.
so, because the e word isn't that far off, does that make it okay?How about 52t
i run 30 x 11-42t and am at the worst physical shape i have ever been.
i spin out on the freaking streets, when mashing on the pedals, standing.
most of the time; i see myself in the 3rd smalles cog, when crusing around town...
The problem is that you're not on trails. On my commuter bike I run 40 x 12-25 and could use an 11t on the top end for mild downhills, but I don't have any issues with gearing on my 5010 on actual trails.
I'm on a 32t cog with 11-45 cassette. it's the sweet spot for here (every trail = straight up) but riding to/from trailheads I still can spin out.
Very close to ordering an 11-40 10sp cassette. Lately my knees have been complaining. So that's my justification for new bike stuff, purely for health reasons.
I'd give a oval chainring a shot. I've got old knee issues and it made a believer out of me despite what the haters say.
Well, my new bike comes with Eagle, so there you go.
Anyone making an oval 32 chainring for Eagle?
Anyone making an oval 32 chainring for Eagle?
I made a handy chart recently to compare various gearing ranges.
I used a 22/34 low gear (on a 26in wheel) and a 32/12 high gear as the benchmarks. The red cells are the gear combos that would match closest to the above.
I also have this for 9r wheels, but honestly I don't give a @$6$% about any 9r riders!
I used a 22/34 low gear (on a 26in wheel) and a 32/12 high gear as the benchmarks. The red cells are the gear combos that would match closest to the above.
I also have this for 9r wheels, but honestly I don't give a @$6$% about any 9r riders!
Anyone know of a 10-46 (sram/xd) cassette? Might be interested for wifey...
Ethirteen has a 9-46 XD cassette
Gave the Sunrace MX3 10s 11-40 a test run on my 26" Spitty. It's just the right low gear, not so easy I'd loop out on the über slack bike, but just hard enough to feel like a smooth progression from the previous cog. It has my favorite cogs from an XT cassette, but just one more low gear. This thing was also about half the cost of an expander cog, has an aluminum carrier and shifts quite well.
Word of caution with that bad boy (speaking from experience): keep an eye on the cassette lockring. I think that's why I destroyed mine. the lockring had backed out, there was play in the cassette, and when I came through a particularly rough rock garden my chain had bounced out of the proper cog. When I tried to grab a few pedal strokes, I bent a couple of cogs. Otherwise, it was fine.
Yeah, will do for sure. Had a similar experience with a craptastic Mavic freehub body that cost me my XTR rear derailleur and several spokes.
I I think you'll have issues with chain take up. If you have the correct amount of chain, for big cog to big cog.
FTFYJUST GET A FUCKING EFATBIKE!!!
Yeah you'd need a derailleur with a 6ft arm
NTTAWWT
NTTAWWT
28/50 is quite the granny. what are you climbing??
god, I'm tempted to go for an 11-28 and add a front derailleur to reduce unsprung weight. these cassettes are getting crazy.
According to @-BB- 's chart we wouldn't need giant cassettes if the industry didn't try to kill 26" wheels.
Alternative facts.
They are. Especially if you use a SRAM Red 11-28 cassette you can save a lot bumpiness.
http://www.ritzelrechner.de/#KB=28&RZ=10&GR=DERS&KB2=28&RZ2=42>2=DERS&UF2=2160&TF=100&UF=2160&SL=2
I've been thinking the same thing. but then I keep going back to the dropped chain issue, which was the reason I went 1x in the first place.
holy fuck! those things are amazingly light!
Some of them, especially the shimano-based ones that can't benefit from the weight reduction designs like SRAM, Hope, E13, etc. Otherwise, an Eagle is about the same as an old 11-36 XT that everyone ran, so it's not like these are massively heavy. Even the lower end SRAM GX is about the same weight as an 11-36 XT cassette. The shimano 11-46 is 434g though, listed weight, so yeah, but that's why SRAM has been kicking their ass as far as drivetrain for the last few years. Better interface that doesn't mar splines, moves torque inboard, allows for weight-saving material removal on the cassette, bigger gears at same or lighter weight, etc.
I don't have time to do the cost/weight analysis, but if you can shave 180g from the cassette, then add the front derailleur (100g?) and chainring (???) then there's your mass. That's assuming the freehub weighs the same, which in many cases they don't.
sram is killing it with cassette weight, no doubt, 280g is insane for an 10-42, but that comes with a very high price on what is essentially a wear item. I would love to see the comparison if somebody has time to break it down, but it looks like those sram reds are ~200, plus 80 in a FD, plus a shifter, it's virtually break even with a very high end XD cassette.
still though, 180g of sprung weight is a decent deal.
sram is killing it with cassette weight, no doubt, 280g is insane for an 10-42, but that comes with a very high price on what is essentially a wear item. I would love to see the comparison if somebody has time to break it down, but it looks like those sram reds are ~200, plus 80 in a FD, plus a shifter, it's virtually break even with a very high end XD cassette.
still though, 180g of sprung weight is a decent deal.
Closer to 268 or so actually for the 10-42 X01 level, and you can replace the big gear (the only one that's made of aluminum). Replace your chain and I think you'll get decent life out of these. Watch your small gears though, like if you are running a 28t front ring for some reason, thats where you'll probably see accelerated wear. And I've weighed both freehub styles for the same hub, the SRAM driver is a few grams lighter. But GX isn't crazy expensive, same weight as XT 11-36, but with bigger gears. That's impressive to me.
When I made the switch from 24-36-bash front and 11-36 X0 back to 32 front and 11-36 X0 back the drop was ~450g.
Off went the two chainrings, the XTR 2-spd derailleur, the Hope 36t Bash, the X9 2-spd trigger and the cable+housing = -489 g
On went a RF NW 32t Ring = +40 g
So adding front will be more than 100 g. If Shimano comes around with their shiftable NW rings we could spare the weight of the bash (and chain device). But still, 120 g for the derailleur + ~150 g for trigger+housing+cable.
Off went the two chainrings, the XTR 2-spd derailleur, the Hope 36t Bash, the X9 2-spd trigger and the cable+housing = -489 g
On went a RF NW 32t Ring = +40 g
So adding front will be more than 100 g. If Shimano comes around with their shiftable NW rings we could spare the weight of the bash (and chain device). But still, 120 g for the derailleur + ~150 g for trigger+housing+cable.
This^^^ The wear life on these cassettes is crazy. I upgraded my bike to XX1 in early 2013 and bought a complete bike with X01 in May 2014. I'm still running those cassettes and chains (with 1 additional spare chain in rotation) and have thousands of miles on them - just under 7k miles by my best estimate. Yes, they are pricey, but I've never gotten that kind of life out any other cassettes.
I've got two X01 cassettes and every time I think I've worn one out it's just the chain (and a pulley wheel in one case). I agree, they're kind of an investment. A worthwhile one.
there are plenty of reasons to go single ring.
I'm just wondering out loud if there are any reasons to go back to 2x.
I'm just wondering out loud if there are any reasons to go back to 2x.
Some things really should just be kept to ourselves.
28/50 on a 27.5 is about the same as a 22/37 on a 26in. We have a 5.6k ft mtn near me. It takes about an hour and a half of solid climbing just to make it up to the ridge. From there it's STEEP fire road climbing. After 3hrs of solid climbing with just a few tiny downhill fireroad breaks, I would absolutely need a 28/50.