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150mm fork options

Discussion in 'Downhill & Freeride' started by Electric_City, Nov 21, 2017.

  1. Electric_City

    Electric_City The orangutans are loose!

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    27.5
    150mm
    Tapered
    And has a 20mm TA.

    Anyone know if this fork exists? The 20mm ta is probably the hardest thing to find. I have a Hadley that's like new so I'm trying to use that. Anyone know off hand if it can be converted to a 15mm non-boost?
     

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  2. lobsterCT

    lobsterCT Chimp

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    it can be converted- balleracing.com
     
  3. StiHacka

    StiHacka Compensating for something

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  4. StiHacka

    StiHacka Compensating for something

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    i͓̽t͓̽ i͓̽s͓̽ fu͓̽l͓̽l͓̽ o͓̽f s͓̽t͓̽a͓̽r͓̽s͓̽
    Alternatively you can have my old XFusion Vengeance HLR that is currently set to 150mm. ;)
     
  5. canadmos

    canadmos Mater Slayer

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    Fox 36?
     
  6. banj

    banj Monkey

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    Yup, Fox 36. The 2015/2016 can be converted to 20mm, and you can get 20mm if you get the 2018 36 831. Not sure about 2017.

    Hadley has conversion kits for boost as well (front and rear)! Hadley for the win!
     
  7. Westy

    Westy the teste

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    Link?
     
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  8. jonKranked

    jonKranked Press Button, Receive Stupid

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    i have a 20mm hadley from 2002 that i recently converted to 15mm (non-boost).
     
  9. Electric_City

    Electric_City The orangutans are loose!

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    Ok, thanks for the hub help!

    How about some fork options?
     
  10. jonKranked

    jonKranked Press Button, Receive Stupid

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    i've been really happy with my mattoc. it can be set to 150mm travel. other than the 20mm axle, it checks all your specs.
     
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  11. lobsterCT

    lobsterCT Chimp

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    I might have you confused with another monkey - apologies if so - but didn't you say you were at the heavy end of the weight distribution spectrum?

    I'm 235 in the birthday suit and running 95% to 100% of the maximum recommended air pressure in the 170 mm travel 36. Doesn't the problem of being at the top of the coil weights/air pressures available just get worse for shorter travel? Need a sharpie like @Udi for confirmation. anecdotal evidence at the push website shows considerably lower max rider weights, the shorter the travel gets.
     
    #11 -   Nov 21, 2017
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2017
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  12. Gary

    Gary "S" is for "neo-luddite"

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    Pretty much every 150mm fork on the market now you know your hub can be converted.
     
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  13. Electric_City

    Electric_City The orangutans are loose!

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    You are correct about my weight. Fortunately, it clicked and I'm back to losing weight, but I'll never see 200lbs. Lol
    The frame I'd like to build up as a hardtail requires a 150mm fork or less. The Blue Pig seems like the hardtail I'm looking for. I rode one for 15 years from rail-trails to XC races (back when I was 240ish), to quad paths to anything except DH. I have spares of everything, and this bike seems perfect to use up my inventory. The fork, rims, post and brakes are the only big things I'd need to purchase.
     
  14. jonKranked

    jonKranked Press Button, Receive Stupid

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    fwiw i'm about 220 geared up and have no issues on the mattoc. i added the IRT upgrade which i'd strongly recommend.
     
  15. mykel

    mykel Monkey

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    +1
    QFT
     
  16. jstuhlman

    jstuhlman We noticed.

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  17. Udi

    Udi RM Chief Ornithologist: “I Brake for Birds”

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    For sure.
    In simple terms, if you're just shy of bottoming out in a given scenario with a given amount of travel, and you halve that travel, you'll now need to double the spring rate to avoid bottoming out in the same scenario.

    This is why (for example) a medium coil spring in a 36 has a higher spring rate than a medium coil spring in a 40.
     
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  18. Happymtb.fr

    Happymtb.fr Monkey

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    I just checked what @Udi is saying, no that I think he is wrong but mostly out of curiosity.

    The following numbers are for medium coil springs for Fox forks which are for a rider between 150 and 180 lbs. First number is travel, next spring rate and then static bottom out force.
    140mm; 56,4lbs/in; 310lbs
    160mm; 45lbs/in; 284lbs
    180mm; 40,4lbs/in; 287lbs
    203mm; 40lbs/in; 320lbs

    So, the more the travel, the lower the spring rate is more or less verified. Then I would tend to say that the more the travel the more you are likely to do stupid things on your bike and therefore you would need more static bottom out force even if more travel also means that more energy can be transformed on the damper side. I guess that the Vanilla at 140mm would have felt pretty stiff in its time since its spring rate is higher than the heaviest spring for a Fox 40 (50 lbs/in for 210+ riders) and it's static bottom out force is relatively high...
    On the topic of short travel and coil, some level of progressivity has to be beneficial, how much depends on how stiff a suspension you can live with at the beginning of the stroke, I am actually struggling with that topic at the moment since I want to have a coil rear shock on my 120mm travelled trail bike...

    Back on topic, I would recommend @Electric_City what I am using (who doesn't do that? ;) ) : a Yari with a Luftkappe and a compression block from Novyparts or Fast Suspension instead of the shitty MoCo damper. You will get a sturdy chassi with a good air spring, a damper with a lot of oil and no bladder that is easy to service.
     
  19. lobsterCT

    lobsterCT Chimp

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    Thank you for the confirmation my science minded friend.

    Back @Electric_City , I would drop the 36 from consideration unless you feel you can get the weight considerably lower than my 235. I'll further caution, that even if you do hit that weight target, its been my experience with both the 36 and the 40, in stock form, if you are running the max air pressure, they feel like a jack hammer even with the rebound adjuster maxed out. For all practical purposes, its a placebo knob at that pressure. It took avalanche/push tuning to get them working properly with the high spring rate.

    I had a 160 diamond, that I felt did a pretty admirable job, in stock form, of providing rebound damping appropriate for a very high spring rate. I can't speak from experience about the xfushion or the Manitou that have been recommended in this thread. IF the diamond can be set for 150, which I don't know off hand, I think it would be a better choice than the Fox, unless you want to spend extra for tuning.
     
    #20 -   Nov 22, 2017
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2017
  20. amishmatt

    amishmatt Turbo Monkey

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    The Diamond is adjustable in 10mm increments, so 150mm is totally doable.
     
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  21. captainspauldin

    captainspauldin Turbo Monkey

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    So I'm about 260lbs fully suited up and run a Pike @ 160mm and that fork has been fantastic after rebuilding it (charger damper seal was leaking, so I pretty much lost any compression) and doing the luftkappe upgrade (feels much nicer off the top, and not running any tokens). I also don't have to run max psi to get sag where I want it (I wonder what the actual weight limit is, I'm not hitting it). Easy to switch the travel on the pike, just need to swap out the air rod to a shorter one. I have a Yari on my hardtail set at 120mm(you can get it in 150mm flavor I think) and that fork is nice also, but the pike feels better with the charger damper.
     
  22. canadmos

    canadmos Mater Slayer

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    Easy. Lol.

    Easy in theory. I did mine last week and man, trying to grab onto the slick grease covered shaft and pulling it out of the tube was a righteous pain the ass. Just this morning, I found two globs of grease on my living room ceiling from when it went "pop".
     
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  23. captainspauldin

    captainspauldin Turbo Monkey

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    haha yeah, I put a washer on the bolt and threaded it into the shaft to make that part a little easier.
     
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