1x style lever for B1 Reverb

Discussion in 'Cross Country, All Mountain & Trail Riding' started by SirChomps-a-Lot, Jan 9, 2018.

  1. SirChomps-a-Lot

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  2. slimshady

    slimshady Turbo Monkey

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    I'd stick with the RS one. Tried one on a friend's bike and it's really easy to actuate and pretty ergonomic.
     
    #2 -   Jan 9, 2018
  3. Gallain

    Gallain Monkey

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    Don't like the look of the RS lever but it feels really nice! If you travel a lot with your bike I would go for the Wolf conversion because it's probably easier to fix, just a new wire and housing for the most part. But most bike parks/shops have some hydraulic housing and bleed kit so...
     
    #3 -   Jan 9, 2018
  4. vinny4130

    vinny4130 Monkey

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    Both are superior to the old RS. The throw of the RS is longer than the wolf tooth. Something I find strange about the RS is the shape of the lever pad it’s different than the shifter. I couldn’t tell you why it bugs me but it just does. The WT lever is not married to the post it can be used on just about any other cable accuated post there is. It’s a fair bit lighter, but in the grand scope it’s not a lot. You do lose the speed adjust but I never ran a reverb any way but full rabbit. The way it lever feels as a part is great, and the way it works is slick I really wouldn’t be suprised if RS adopeded it. The cable is fixed once clamped it’s the housing that makes it work. I like the WT better but I am biased, like I said both better than the OG push button.
     
  5. StiHacka

    StiHacka Compensating for something

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    If you crash and accidentally break the remote, the cable actuated one won't spill its oily guts all over your brake rotor.
     
  6. johnbryanpeters

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    Next: @StiHacka goes back to cable activated brakes...
     
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  7. slimshady

    slimshady Turbo Monkey

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    Same happened to me. It's actually because the Reverb pad is concave, while the SRAM shifters have convex profiles.

    Same was said in the early days of disc brakes. And here we are, with a minimum number of units affected by this. The most frequent damage cause with shifters is contact with a knee, I'd say the Reverb lever is pretty safe, since it's a lot sturdier than a standard shifter.
     
  8. StiHacka

    StiHacka Compensating for something

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    I am speaking from my own experience. The remote (the original one) was significantly more flimsy and fragile than brake levers, and more exposed as well.
     
  9. SirChomps-a-Lot

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    I've heard this before but never understood what it means. Does this mean the housing will move in and out of the internal routing ports as the post is activated and slowly wear away the plastic? That doesn't sound like a good idea...
     
  10. vinny4130

    vinny4130 Monkey

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    It dose move but not as much as you are thinking, some frames have a very tight bend at or around the B.B. and into the last port and if you make it as tight as you can it’s not going to work great, but I would say it would still be bad practice with a “normal” cable/hydraulic line. The normal amount of slack in a seat tube inbetween the post bottom and closest port is more than enough. It is not at all like having the whole housing move from lever to post, honestly if you hadn’t been told you may never have noticed it’s very little. I have set it up on my bike spartan, a couple of Rockys yetis and Santa Cruz spez and a giant. I have yet to hear some say they liked the way it was, including one or two of the new style lever. The wear to the plastic is not going to be more than the vibration from riding.
     
    #10 -   Jan 12, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2018
  11. SirChomps-a-Lot

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    Hmm I was leaning toward the wolftooth for travel ease and lighter lever feel...

    I barely have enough room in my frame for my 175mm post after removing the connectamajig and replacing it with a plain barb. I know the wolftooth is shorter than a connectamajig, but is it shorter than a standard barb?
     
  12. SirChomps-a-Lot

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    Ok, after doing some measuring, it looks like replacing the connectamajig with a barb saved about 30mm. Wolftooth says the remote sustain is 40mm shorter than a connectamajig.

    Using my powers of math I deduce that the remote sustain should be 10 mm shorter than my barb and should be good to go with my setup. :headbang:
     
  13. KenW449

    KenW449 something stupid

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    My remote is weird, but its compact and works. If only the dropper still did.
     

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  14. vinny4130

    vinny4130 Monkey

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    It seem like you found the answer but the wolf is much shorter and isn’t as easy to break off. Which isn’t something that is very common but it has happened to me I put a stock reverb in the frame and it “fit” but the saddle was just a little crooked, twisted the seat to align ‘snap’ bummer town.
     
  15. ChrisRobin

    ChrisRobin Turbo Monkey

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    I was considering the WT remote but my impatience got the better of me so I caved and got the RS remote at my local shop. I'm running shimano 10spd still but I was able to set it all up for it to be comfortable. No big complaints. Yeah the lever has a lot of throw to it but not so much it becomes distracting. Compared to the stock plunger, it's heavier.

    I run mine full speed just so I can feel the post extend fully.
     
  16. SirChomps-a-Lot

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    Ok, I bought the wolftooth. Build quality is impressive and it fits my frame. But the cable housing definitely moves in and out 1/4 inch at the port on the seat tube. Is it supposed to be taking that 1/4" slack from housing inside the seat tube? Perhaps the pivot that runs through the seat tube on my reign is preventing that from happening properly?

    It still feels pretty good with the housing rubbing in the seat tube port, so I'm ok if people aren't having problems with replacing the housing once per month. I suppose I could also drill out that port a tiny bit?