[- seb]

Can someone tell me what I need to buy (and ideally where from), rather than buying the expensive kits from a devinci dealer etc?

Obviously I can take it all apart and measure and work it out myself, but seems silly if someone on here knows the answers already!

had a look on google/devinci's site and failed to find what I'm after.

Full kit is £120 in the UK..... I only really need the main one I think, but I'd like to replace them all really.

 

[miuan]

120 is a rip off IMO. I got my kit from freeborn along with the bike and a spare hanger, for something like 80 pounds. I find it quite a fair price, though not cheap by any means. The advantage of full kit is you have all the hardware, not only bearings. I noticed one of the axles was quite worn so I was happy to replace it. Others were fine but I replaced them anyway and kept the old as spares. That said, Devinci sucks for not publishing full torque specs. Some are written on the axles, some are not.
I'm pretty sure the types were written on the bearings (HK1214xx or so), therefore if you decide to cheap out on the whole kit, ask Freeborn to tell you the bearing types. If they refuse, drop me a PM, I'll scrape the dirt/grease off mine and write down the types for you.

 

[- seb]

Just found some PDFs that I got devinci to email me when I first bought the frame that tells me everything I could want to know and more

Uploaded them in case anyone else needs them.

http://www.rootsandrain.co.uk/temp/2009-wilson-diagram.pdf
http://www.rootsandrain.co.uk/temp/2009-wilson-legend.pdf
http://www.rootsandrain.co.uk/temp/2009-wilson-parts.pdf

 

[Transcend]

Exact numbers and sizes coming right up...

 

[BuzzieCat]

The rundown you posted above is informative and valuable for me. You did levitra online a great job here. That's great you created this thread

 

[atrokz]

Just read the number on the side. I highly doubt Devinci is spec'ing proprietary bearings so they should be industrial standard.

Also, check the shaft as it's crutial that it is without pitting or 'flats' as this is your bearing 'race', so-to-speak.

Lastly, when you're putting it all back together I suggest you use a sort of marine grease. Nicolai's use a very similar bearing set up (Devinci basicaly coppied them) so I'm pretty familiar with grease washing out due to there being no real seals. I've been using the same grease we use on submerged rotaing assemblies. A little more drag, but hardly noticable and won't wash out.

 

[CanadaGuy]

120GBP is nuts!

I bought 2 sets of bearings from Bicyclettes de Hull in Quebec, Canada for $50 Cad if I remember correctly. This included all bearings, bushings, bolts and axles. It was essentially a full rebuild kit.

This kit also fits the earlier gen of Wilsons with the exception of the main pivot right above the bb.

They do appear to be charging $120 Cad ($75 GBP) now on their site, but I bought them through their ebay store.

http://bicyclettesdehull.com/devinci-wilson-pivot-kit.html

If anyone needs actual numbers from the bearings I can go grab them and post back

 

[big-ted]

Old thread is old.

 

[- seb]

I never actually got around to replacing mine. I had loads of play, but given that I had a massive (undiscovered at this time) crack in my swingarm, that maybe wasn't surprising.

Also I think a lot of it was down to just the main pivot not being tightened enough. It's amazing how loose* the shaft is in the roller bearings until you do the end caps up pretty tightly, at which point their inability to twist against the frame seems to be all that takes that play out? I'm no mech eng, maybe this is pretty standard pivot design 101?!

Tis a bit of a pain in the arse, finding the sweet spot between tight enough not to wobble and not-so-tight-that you get stiction. A definite "shock out" job.

Seb


*I did replace one pair of bearings & shaft about a year ago, and noted at the time that the new ones I put in had just as much "wobble" in the shaft as the old ones I took out.

 

[roel_koel]

I never actually got around to replacing mine. I had loads of play, but given that I had a massive (undiscovered at this time) crack in my swingarm, that maybe wasn't surprising.

Also I think a lot of it was down to just the main pivot not being tightened enough. It's amazing how loose* the shaft is in the roller bearings until you do the end caps up pretty tightly, at which point their inability to twist against the frame seems to be all that takes that play out? I'm no mech eng, maybe this is pretty standard pivot design 101?!

Tis a bit of a pain in the arse, finding the sweet spot between tight enough not to wobble and not-so-tight-that you get stiction. A definite "shock out" job.

Seb


*I did replace one pair of bearings & shaft about a year ago, and noted at the time that the new ones I put in had just as much "wobble" in the shaft as the old ones I took out.

I hear ya!

I had similar issues with my 2009 and 2010 Hectik (FSR) frames

pivot torque was critical - a little too low and there was waggle in the rear, a little too high and the bike pedalled great (because of pivot binding) but did not have good traction on the rough ground

tried all kinds of fixes including different loctite grades and different torque settings, and replacing pivot hardware (the steel centre sleeve seemed to be the culprit in many instances!)


I'm happy to report my 2011 Dixon SP is a much simpler design using commonly available industrial sealed bearings (the same size on each pivot is really refreshing) and is not effected by overtorque as the pivots have an axle bottom out stop, nice one Devinci

 

[6thElement]

Old thread is old.

Old thread was bumped by spambot