[Udi]

Getting the right spring is half the battle. After that I'd set the VA to fully open (counter-clockwise), set the preload so that the fork just extends to full travel but not forcefully, and set the LSC to 4 clicks out (counter-clockwise) from fully closed.

From there, increase VA (clockwise) if you are bottoming out, increase LSC if it is diving too much, and decrease LSC if it feels too harsh. Set rebound to taste / to suit the spring rate, as long as it's slightly faster than the back of your bike, you're set.

 

[schwaaa31]

Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks Udi.

 

[schwaaa31]

So I got the firm spring for my 2014 rc3 v2. The one I took out is coated in a clear grease. Is there a specific grease I should be using on the new one?

 

[ChrisRobin]

Any non-seal killing grease. Make sure there's a bit of oil at the bottom of the leg for bushing lubing.

 

[Udi]

All the grease is for is to reduce friction on the spring isolator / heatshrink (and to stop it moving down the spring as a result), a light coat on that part is all you need.

Virtually all coil forks come with way too much grease from factory and it absorbs bath oil and also increases the oil's viscosity, neither of which are ideal in my book.

As ChrisRobin said, slick honey or similar is fine, and check that the bath oil volume is up to spec.

 

[craigyboy]

Hey guys, got a 2013 888 rc3 non ti version. Just about to give it a tear down and looking at oil level zocchi site is saying 285ml in the damper side and 80ml in the spring side, I've seen conflicting comments on this post saying 320ml in the damper side? Also at 200lbs I've been using the 6.5nm spring is this the right one? The fork still feels quite under damped in the mid range but they don't bottom too often, to be honest I haven't fiddled much with setup. I'm an off the back aggressive rider. Any help much appreciated.

 

[jackalope]

If memory serves, the later 888 models were spec'd with less oil in the damper side than the earlier versions, so 285 ml sounds right to me. I also think you have the right spring, but the floppy midstroke seems to be a function of the relatively crude damper design...or maybe they put too much VPP in there

 

[ChrisRobin]

I might try out those SKF seals this year. Looks like I'll be hanging onto the 888 a little longer since I don't want to 'fork' over more monies. Based on my measurements, a 27.5 with HighRoller II 2.4 will fit, but will be close.

 

[craigyboy]

Thanks Jackalope, there's denfinatley too much vpp (any vpp is too much for me lol) or not enough of something In there, there murder on the steep stuff to keep the weight off the front, perhaps an avy cartridge is the answer lol

 

[mykel]

Was talking to Alex at Zoke Canada.

Ti springs for the 888 Evo Ti V2 area available for 200.00 canadian.

With the exchange the way it is at about 25% - bit of a bargain for the US guys.

As well, I'm getting a shim kit from them for 25.00.
Could not find 7mm id locally, so....

michael

 

[tabletop84]

Quick question as I'm heading to the park tomorrow:

Last time I serviced my fork I changed the shimstack, springrate, oil (Maxima Racing 5WT) and now it feels like the rebound gets faster when I leave the fork alone. If I cycle it through it feels right after a few strokes. Could it be that I have to add a little oil? Over the years Marz reduced the levels considerably but as far as I know the internals didn't change. I think I filled in 285cc.

pls no Rux jokes

 

[Udi]

That's fairly likely, because the rebound piston on the 888 resides at the very top of the cartridge, so low oil height or foaming related issues will first be visible in early-stroke rebound damping. Hopefully adding some oil will fix it..

...temporarily until you get a RUX.

 

[IH8Rice]

what year 88888?

 

[tabletop84]

2012

 

[tabletop84]

Any advice on how to remove the Volume Adjust thingy?

I'm running a firmer shimstack together with a blue Fox spring and the fork feels fine I just can't get over 160mm at ~ 75kg race-ready.

Can I disasemble it without having to completely remove the whole damper?

 

[Udi]

Just buy a Fox, you're almost there with the spring.
Once you figure out the basic task of removing the volume reducer, you can move onto this:

 

[tabletop84]

Nah first I will remove the O-ring of the VA, then the VA, then buy a charger and finally a Rux

 

[tabletop84]

Has anyone have experience with htis piston kit from Öhlins?

http://j-techsuspension.co.uk/pages/products/andreani-piston-kits.php

As far as I understand it adds shimmed rebound to the rc3 damper. But I dunno if it's worth the money. Another option would be to convert a 888 to a 380. Maybe the cartridge is enough (as far as I know the stanctions remainded the same) but at least together with the lowers it should work and shave a few grams...

Well I could just swap in a boxxer or rux but my bike has a very funky colour sheme which doesn't work with black forks...

 

[IH8Rice]

what is the "technology by Ohlins?"

 

[tabletop84]

dunno I think it's "designed with the help of Öhlins" whatever that means. But somehow I can't find anything about it apart from some italian forums. dbc cartridge is 400€ and a new 380 cr is 800 and a used c2r2 too so not an option... Vorsprung said that charger adapter can't be machined because of too thin walls which is odd because 888 has only 1mm difference to 40. Would be the best option I think...

but blue 40 spring and slightly stiffer compreesion-stack are feeling great. I just have to remove the va completely to use all of the travel I think. With under 300cc of oil the damping gets inconsistent but I use only 170mm of travel with it at 170lbs...

 

[tabletop84]

A bit more info:

http://www.brennanautosport.com/mountain-bike/andreani-upgrades/

would be ok for 50€ but 200€ seems a bit off considering you get complete machined cartridges for the boxxer for 50 more..

 

[Metamorphic]

In 31 pages, have we discussed Avalanche dampers yet? Is there something better for this fork or is that still the defacto aftermarket spring controller? Like mentioned by many, the mid-stroke wallow is real. Cheaper than getting a Rux I suppose!

 

[tabletop84]

well as far as I know there are only few aftermarket tuning options available for the RC3 damper. The cheapest option is to change a few shims, then that rebound piston kit comes with two compression shimstacks (hard and soft) and adds a shimmed rebound which could be really beneficial if it really was designed with the help of Öhlins and then there's the avalanche but living in europe it's not an option for me because with taxes and stuff it would cost as much as a boxxer...

 

[IH8Rice]

In 31 pages, have we discussed Avalanche dampers yet? Is there something better for this fork or is that still the defacto aftermarket spring controller? Like mentioned by many, the mid-stroke wallow is real. Cheaper than getting a Rux I suppose!

@Huck Banzai has one in his 88888 and seems to love it. im sure he'll chime in soon enough about it

 

[Huck Banzai]

Works good for me, not wallowy like, & sits higher in travel than RC3 damper.

I would expect it performs similarly to an Avy damper in any fork, I prefer the 888 chassis. Tough and stiff.

 

[Tim300wsm]

I just picked up a 2012 888 rc3 evo ti as a new take off from a shop on pinkbike and a 2013 knolly podium. I know I need to change the spring. I am a big guy 6'3" & 255. I have access to a fox red ti spring and my question is whether or not this would be the right spring rate for me or not. Would the 7.7 marzocchi steel spring be better ? I am new to marzocchi and to downhill. I moved about 20 minutes from blue mountain and always thought it looked more fun than the XC and trails I've been riding. Thanks for any help you can give

 

[mykel]

I am on a 2013 888 ti bolted to a 2013 Podium.
Weigh in at 215 nekid.
Running the Firm 6.6 Ti spring.
Sag is good, but it rides a bit too soft - especially mid-stroke which always seems weak on these things.
I have a custom shim-stack from Marzocchi Canada - putting it in tomorrow night.

(I also have a 66 ti - thinking of taking the air valve top cap off of that and trying it on the 888 with only a couple of psi....doing shim stack first and riding that for a bit before I experiment with air - if needed)

At your weight, I would be on a 7.7 or the Fox - sorry - Don't know the Fox spring weights.

Good luck

michael

 

[Tim300wsm]

Red is the stiffest they offer. The nice thing about the fox spring is its 1/3 the cost. The podium I bought needs a headset and I have a new in box 1° angle set just sitting based off your experience would that be to slack or gtg.

 

[mykel]

Guess it depends upon where you ride.
Stock is 63.5 and i have never felt I wanted it slacker.
Cheap (relatively) Ti springs can be bought from Zoke Canada - with the cdn dollar way down, it is it is a steal for US based peeps. My 6.6 was 200.00 cdn, or with the way exchange is now about 3 bucks us.

I posted contact details a few posts back....ifin yer interested.

 

[katsooba]

hey guys, anyone know where i can get a hold of the TI-springs for the marzocchi forks? 888\380?

 

[mykel]

Well I finally put in the two stage custom "Firm" shim-stack that zoke canada made up for me.

The specs I gave Marzocchi Canada were:

Bike:
2013 Knolly Podium with CCDB coil.
13 888 evo ti ver 2
Firm Ti spring
Removed volume adjust.
Redline fluids mixed to zoke fluid specs - 325 damper, 200 spring side.
3-4 clicks of comp - from full open - rebound to taste.

Rider:
51 year old hack, riding since 1969.
6' 2" @ 210 nekid.
Nerve damage in my hand so suppleness is critical
Ride a mix of natural dh and groomed park.
Getting old and not going big anymore
Drops to flat - max 5 feet
Drops to tranny - max 6-8 feet.
Doubles/Tables - max 20 feet

Big difference, very supple off the top, good mid-stroke and a nice ramp at the bottom.
Does not dive anywhere near as much under braking, hitting berms or on the steeps.

Top is the rebound blow off shim, piston and stock stack.
Bottom is the new stack - assemble starting on left and stacking

Testing was cut short due to the lack of operator skill, the unrideable / too many pivots Knolly got sick of my hack ass and tossed me to the ground at a high rate of speed. Thank god the tree was there for my hips and lower back to crash into stopping my fall. Think Danny Hart level of bruise. The only difference is he raced a week later, and it took me 2 weeks to get off the couch - going to be another couple to i'm back on the bike again.

Getting old sucks. Ya nae longer bounce, just hit and go splat.

Anyway, initial thoughts are positive - cost was 25.00 Canadian - so you guys in the states, dig up a couple of quarters from the back of the couch and that should cover ya.
Will update my thoughts as I get more time on the bike.

michael

oh ya - I have the shim sizes written down and will post when i find the damn sheet.
Measured in thou, will convert to mm

 

[tabletop84]

but how much do you weigh?

 

[mykel]

but how much do you weigh?

Post updated - 6' 2" @ 210 nekid.

 

[shorerider]

Hey I've read through some of the posts. I've got a 2010 888 RC3 Evo TI. It has the firm spring with max preload and compression somewhere near the middle. Its filled with motul 7.5wt to factory spec levels. I weight about 160-160lbs with gear and ride whistler and north shore trails. Marzocchi is shut down so need your guy's info. The fork feels too soft with preload cranked up. If I turn up the compression, the fork feel too harsh over the brake bumps. Is there anthing I can do to make it feel better or is it how it is?

 

[jackalope]

It has a relatively crude damper, so you're pretty limited in terms of optimal tuning options. The only things that come to my mind are maybe reducing the oil volume in the spring side (while increasing compression damping to hopefully avoid frequent bottom out) or maybe go with a lighter weight oil in the damper side so the increased compression damping doesn't feel as harsh in the braking bumps. I actually got the best result with a medium spring and additional oil in the spring side (I think I settled on ~225 ml), but it was never great, especially compared to a newer boxxer/40/dorado.

Or just bag it and step up to a RUX!

 

[mykel]

if all else fails - Craig at Avalanche.

 

[shorerider]

I feel as as I'm undersprung with a firm ti spring at 160lbs

 

[jackalope]

While I seem to recall the stock spring (5.5) was rated pretty low in terms of weight range, I think 160 lbs should be OK in theory. I only have experience with the steel springs, but I thought they were the same spring rates as the titanium ones for the respective firmness levels.

Anyway, I tried a firm spring (I'm 185ish) and both me and a similarly sized bro (who rides harder than I do) felt it was an absolute jack hammer POS with the firm spring. Udi and others whom I trust strongly suggested I use the firm spring for my weight, but it was probably the worst performing dh fork I've ever used with the firm spring in there. So I ended up back with the medium spring (ie - undersprung), a lot of preload and moar oil in the spring side to increase progressivity. In this guise, the fork had great small bump compliance and resisted unnecessary bottom outs well, but basically had no mid-stroke support (ie - exciting/dangerous ). I was almost at the point of trying a different oil weight and/or trying to change the compression shim stack, but then scratched up the stanchions really bad when drunkenly dropping the lower crown. So now I had a '15 boxxer team (coil with charger damper) and it's orders of magnitude better in basically every way except ease of service.

Oh, to reiterate, you should get a RUX.

 

[shorerider]

Thanks for the quick reply. I just wish marz was still open. I have the preload maxed. Feels great on the the slower stuff but lacking support in the initial and mid stroke on the faster whistler jump trails. Im thinking if more thicker oil in the damper side would have any improvement. I've heard somewhere on here a Fox 40 spring will work that is in between a firm and extra firm. That may be a possibility. I.d really like to keep this fork and not spend the money for a rux. Maybe the simple answer Moar shimz.

 

[mykel]

Honestly, re-shimzing with moar was the best thing I have done to my 13 Evo Ti.
Now it is supple off the top, has decent mid-stroke and a progressive bottom.
Is it perfect - hell no - just a huge amount better than stock, enough so that I have put off the call to Craig. (for now anyway )

200 nekid
13 Knolly Podium with CCDB @ 450lb

Custom shimz from the Vancouver boyz. ( maybe try DVO - they are mostly ex zoke..???)
Firm Ti Spring.
Removed volume adjuster.
Redline suspension fluids mixed to stock Zoke values.
325 ml Damper side
225 ml Spring side.
Enough preload to take up spring slack + maybe a turn.
4 clicks comp
Rebound - as required