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Discussion in 'Downhill & Freeride' started by mykel, Apr 21, 2017.
Somewhere like https://transferwise.com/ can often help a little with that.
That saddle angle tho
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The deal has already been sealed.
The seat angle looks weird but I assure you it works. Body position is super comfortable when pedaling and climbing. It's easier on my knees, and the front end is glued while climbing. Oddly enough I find my saddle doesn't get it the way as much when jumping or riding steeper terrain with the post compressed.
I expected the reach to feel weird compared to the xl Hightower I came off of. I ended up keeping a 50mm stem when I thought I'd be dropping to a 35 because the seated position puts you closer to the bars than traditional geometry.
Are you sure about the coil part? @andrextr stated it would be too linear for a coil on Vital's post.
I'm running a coil on the evolink currently. Slightly higher spring rate, fatter bottom out bumper, and extra hsc shims. It's still better than air for my use. I realize the frame isn't ideal for coil, but I really hate air shocks and the stiction that is associated with them. Plus we are sponsored by dvo, so topaz vs jade is an easy choice
New toodlemobile - 2018 Kona Process 275 CR.
Basically stock, except XT cranks, Bikeyoke Revive Dropper and Joystick Builder saddle, Hope E4 brakes and tubeless.
14.5kg (32lbs). Will probably go a 50mm stem and go back to 31.8mm bars at the same time and I'm waiting on a Luftkappe to arrive as well. My OneUp chain device didn't fit because the top ISCG mount is recessed and the main pivot fouls - will sort some spacers. Aside from the crappy 3 engagement point rear hub its a really sorted spec level.
Put a 40 on this thing (lowered to 180mm). Otherwise no intention to change much on it or the hardtail.
That's not the official geometron seat angle.
I like the bike, but I haven't drunk the Kool-Aid.
Chris Porter also said that they tried lower BBs, but felt that they didn't work. I've got 26" wheels on it and haven't died yet.
You just didn't do enough timed runs on it or you're just not as fast as CP. Or you just have to believe.
I really want to try the 29 version of that thing. The geo is pretty close to everything I like in a trail bike, if I don't like that in 29 I don't think I'll ever like a 29er.
All that carbon and still 32lbs?
Who cares? To an order of magnitude, bike is 10 to 15% of total system weight: bike, rider, and gear.
They didn't do a 29er version in carbon this year, although I've seen a couple vids and articles f guys converting the 27.5 version to 29 successfully.
Yep. I was hoping for sub-30 but need to figure out where the weight lies. The GX cassette isn't real light for starters but the rest remains a mystery. I haven't weighed the frame on its own but its claimed to be 3000g without shock, although lizard scales are always a joke. It's seriously burly though - probably the toughest carbon frame I've ever seen. I don't think they wanted to see any warranties on these things.
Carbon not required; I actually prefer aluminum.
Yep same, but I'm not the strongest climber so I wanted the weight saving.
Just got this dirty old tube strapper together a couple of weeks ago. Digging it.
2018 Devinci Spartan by Dogboy posted Dec 4, 2017 at 5:35 PM
A few details:
170mm Cane Creek Helm
XTR/XT drivetrain with a SRAM X01 11-speed cassette
Race Face Turbine R wheels, bar, and stem
Maxxis Aggressor 2.3 rear, Minion DHF 2.5 front tires
BikeYoke Revive 185mm dropper
30lbs on the nose with the frame being the only crabon fibre
The Revive is a real standout product. Super happy with it so far and the 185mm drop is bonkers.
If you are talking about the Django he rode this year, it didn't have much in common with a stock bike but it was not an exercise that was part of a new chassis development.
It had a 160mm lyrik, with a -2 degree angleset, longer stroke shock and machined troy links to fit the trunnion.
Main problems were BB height at around 350mm and frame progression which required custom air can modification and valving change to manage the high spring pressure build up. He never rode that bike with a coil as far as I know.
I think you are talking about another Django
Is it possible to buy a new bike and NOT have faster strava times?
Timed runs and Strava is a classy oxymoron.
I am talking about this Django specifically
The picture you posted is the bike I described, there are typos in his post.
That is one sweet ride man!
Cool, thanks for the info. I kind of guessed the rocker was from a Troy. High BB on the Django seems like a no go, I tried mine with 30 and 35% sag (with a shock with the original dimension) and much prefer how the bike handles with 35% sag!
Here is a picture:
Pretty much monkey-proofed with Shigura brakes and 2015 DHX RC4 modified to fit the bike. The shock is an improvement over the original Float on pretty much all points except bottom out resistance since the frame has little travel and not much progression. I have minimised the size of the IFP chamber and got a stiffer spring but I am still bottoming out on biggish drops. I think that a thicker bottom out bumper would help but I don't really know where to get one yet. Advices on that would be appreciated or any other thing I could do to improve the bottom out resistance.
Old Vivids used to come with different durometer bottom out bumpers, maybe try to find one of those?
Did you have the compression circuit re-valved?
It should have been, yes.
PUSH has multiple densities of bumpers for their 11-6. If I recall correctly they have different bumpers for their “factory tunes” also. Maybe they could hook you up with a heavy duty one.
This is the bike with the coil over I was referring too .
I too like the django with more sag and most of my non DH bike for that matter. I never got along with the % of sag, I feel that and absolute amount of negative travel would be more appropriate convention. For my type of riding, I prefer to have between around 50-70mm of negative travel regardless of positive amount of travel. Trying to run more sag on AM bikes affect geometry but it's only compromises trying to setup a bike to your linking, even more so than designing one.
I used a push bumper inside a super deluxe this summer with good results, maybe it could fit your shock. Also I do have many of the variable densities vivid outside bumper (they were 2 part bumpers) if you want some. Honestly for me I know I could not get a coil to work on the this bike as a lot of work was needed even for air. going with a firmer valving can help a little but becomes harsh fast, it never does a good job compensating a lacking spring curve.
Oh sorry, I was talking about oton's bike.
Thanks for the offer @vincent ! I live in Sweden so that it might be easier and cheaper to get it more locally...
I will also check with TFtuned if it is possible to buy only the bumper from an 11-6.
New frame to replace the Spitfire. Also dropped a Push coil kit into the 36.
I bought a fatter bottom out bumper from Avalanche and installed it on my jade for my evolink. I have also firmed up the hsc shims a bit but that bottom out bumper made a huge difference. It used to bottom out super harsh with a 500lb spring at 0 turns of preload. Now bottom outs are all but imperceptible
Thanks for the feedback!
Awesome dude! How do you like it relative to the Spitfire? Have been looking at Knollys a lot lately. They are coming out with a 120mm and a 145mm 29er in 2018. Keeping an eye out for those.
Just got done with my second ride on it. I bought this without a test ride first based on how good my Delirium feels; that may be coming back to bite me in the ass. I wanted something with about the same wheelbase as the Spitty but with shorter chainstays since the Spitty feels great when I have room to open it up but get's slowed down in the really tight and twisty stuff. On paper the wheelbase is within two millimeters with shorter stays and a longer front to center. In practice though the front end feels a lot shorter in the steeps; I was feeling pretty timid dropping into stuff I normally charge down. I'm going to give a couple of weeks to figure out if I'm going to keep it or if it's going to be a very expensive demo.
Cornering: the Knolly is considerably quicker on tight and twisty single track, and trades off on high speed stability.
Bump absorption: the Knolly absorbs hits and smoothes out terrain better than the Spitty (which is also pretty good). Part of this is likely the X2 vs the Monarch on the Spitty as well as a little more travel.
Pedaling: the Knolly isn't as efficient at the pedals as the Spitty. I knew that and can live with it.
Climbing: front end of the Knolly wanders more, cockpit feels shorter.
@djjohnr very interesting initial thoughts, thanks for replying. I have had newbikitis for a while, but when I ride new bikes, I just remember how sweet the Spitfire really is. If you end up going back (not sure if you still have the Spitfire frame), I cannot recommend putting that X2 on it enough. I have been running one on my Spit for 6 months and it is a supreme victory.
Haven’t sold the Banshee yet. I’m going to give myself a week or two to adapt to the Knolly then decide. I still want something with shorter stays than the Spitty. I need to try the new Rocky Altitude, too bad the alloy version isnt available frame only; I don’t trust their carbon.
Canfield Riot with 27" wheels.