22 inches of Love - it feels just right
- Thread starter oldtricks
- Start date
RIDEINDUST prototype "2ton" frame --> 22" wheel specific:
****proto fabricated by mattt @ STOUT BIKES, Houston TX ****
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next to a LIQUID Feedback 24":
Hey CMC,
are the wheels on the 24 from a WTP Avenue/Avenger? If so, did you have any issues with the front hub, because mine won't seem to adjust and has slight play in it. I've taken it apart several times, and gave it to another mechanic at my old shop to wrench on with no luck.
pretty sure you (or someone) asked this before...
and yes, those hubs suck! loose ball junkers, IMO. get one of the new Odyssey complete wheels from empire.....
hmmm, doesn't ring a bell, but then again sometimes I like to drink and post. So it's not impossible.pretty sure you (or someone) asked this before...
get one of the new Odyssey complete wheels from empire.....
And yeah, I'm pretty much sold on those Odyssey wheels. I was undecided about keeping the cruiser, but I rode the local trails last week on it and it reminded me why it needs to stay.
Vernon's still riding his custom 22", although he's potentially going to build another proto that is shorter in the front--this one is 21.75".
(Fabricated by STOUT Bikes http://stoutbikes.blogspot.com/ . . . Matt at STOUT goes for high quality custom BMX and MTB builds, with obsessive attention to detail )
(Fabricated by STOUT Bikes http://stoutbikes.blogspot.com/ . . . Matt at STOUT goes for high quality custom BMX and MTB builds, with obsessive attention to detail )
on my third double-shot espresso, started wondering if there was enough room to grind dropouts forward in a WTP Avenger to make a 22" wheel line up with the brake pads. answer: no. but it could be an interesting build. (just rigged for the pic--no headset, and wheel barely hanging on to 20" fork dropouts).
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Those headset types are incompatible. To use an integrated headset, the head tube must be machined to accept the bearings. The Zeitgeist head tube was designed to accept cups for a standard (old-style) head set. The bearings from an integrated headset are actually a little bigger than standard bearings, and so will not fit into a standard headset cup.
Many thanks. I guess I'll seek out out some good old fashioned bearings.
Funnily enough, on the Faction I think it helps with front end height.
I just can't seem to get that headset on the faction to stay tight. Someone suggested I should try another spacer under the stem to help give a bit more bite. The forks turn stiff in the headtube too, that's the only way I can hold it and it comes loose after a few days. Maybe I over tightened it or something and need to replace the whole headset... sorry, rambling now...
Are you leaving a little bit of a gap between the top of the steer tube and the top of the stem? Like this:
If not, you won't be able to tension it properly. When tightening, it should be as loose as possible, but with no movement or "slop" of the steer tube.
Or maybe you have some grease on the steer tube or stem.
Check out this Park Tool page: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threadless-headset-service. Maybe there is something there that can help.
standard or press fit. I suggest the solid h/s
http://www.empirebmx.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6957
here's some others
http://www.danscomp.com/products.php?cat=PARTS&show=HEADSETSSTANDARD
is it possible you might have put one or both of the bearings upside down, or that you put the wrong ring on the wrong race? also check if one of the plastic "dust guard" rings is not fitting well. if you have it done correctly, it could still be just badly fabricated headset.
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Mmm. Sorry about the bad quality of this pic. Think you can see what it is though. That plastic piece that is resting on the frame (upside down) is chewed up. It couldn't have been fitting well and had been compressed. It was facing down, over the bearings. Some of the ball bearing fell out when I took the forks off. I put it back together but it's not good. Maybe I shouldn't ride it.. can I damage the frame if I do, like if the bearing cups are intergrated in the frame? I guess I should get a whole new headset before I ride it....
Not sure I'm being clear. What I'm saying is buy a whole new headset. (Just a regular 1 1/8" Aheadset, non-integrated). They're not that expensive. It will come with new cups. You want to switch all of it, because the pieces of a headset are supposed to fit together well--the bearings need to sit in cups made for those bearings. In other words, do not buy a new headset, but leave the old cups in and switch only the bearings.
Ha ha. Normaly you are crystal clear in your advice, but I don't get that. Ok, buy a new headset. That's good. ( "In other words, do not buy a new headset") - do you mean OR just get new bearings if I leave the old cups in?
I think I'll just get a new headset. Back in the day we used to bang the headset cups in with a piece of wood and hammer and knock out the old ones with the end of a screwdriver. Is that still the case? I could take it to my LBS, but I'd like to see how it goes together.
Do not buy a headset and use only the new bearings/races. Use the new cups too.
Try knocking the old cups out, if they're in there really well, your LBS will have proper tools. Might as well have them press the new cups in for you while you're there. They shouldn't have a problem doing just those 2 operations for you, leaving you to assemble the headset the rest of the way.
You might actually have them check the head tube, they'll have a tool to true up the ends, in case they're not perfectly perpendicular to the tube, and parallel to each other. (Possible cause of your issue)
Try knocking the old cups out, if they're in there really well, your LBS will have proper tools. Might as well have them press the new cups in for you while you're there. They shouldn't have a problem doing just those 2 operations for you, leaving you to assemble the headset the rest of the way.
You might actually have them check the head tube, they'll have a tool to true up the ends, in case they're not perfectly perpendicular to the tube, and parallel to each other. (Possible cause of your issue)
Haven't found one yet but a quick Internet scan reveals many around. The one fitted on the faction is a cane creek one. There are loads of these avaiable.
I was going to do what cmc suggested. Buy one and then if the bearings fit the existing cups use the new ones.
I think a quick trip to the bike shop would be quicker to be honest.
Heh, No! I was saying do NOT use the existing cups. (Even if they "seem" to fit. The idea is that headsets are precision machined and even a small mis-match can mess things up.)
I think you can. For example, this one http://www.alansbmx.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_48&products_id=5339
Actually, I was in some bike shops today, and from what I can gather, a 1 1/8th ahead headset is the same as most mountain bike headsets, like the hope I have on my xc/downhill bike. They look different because the cups are big and bubbly - but that's what they recommended me to buy.
Actually, I was in some bike shops today, and from what I can gather, a 1 1/8th ahead headset is the same as most mountain bike headsets, like the hope I have on my xc/downhill bike. They look different because the cups are big and bubbly - but that's what they recommended me to buy.
Nice find. All looks straight forward. Easy tool to build to fit the cups. Just need to find a long enough threaded steel bar, some bolts and then some big washers, much like a tool you'd build to fit bb bearings. Though tbh, I think I'll leave it to the experts at my local bike shop while I'm at work
Do any of you know what kind of driver the Quando hubs on the Zeitgeist uses? I'm wondering what would be needed to switch to a 10T.
Can't be done I'm afraid. I contacted the faction guys and they said it would be easier to switch the front sprocket, as did some people on here. I'd be happy to be corrected though.
there's some bits in here about that...
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237542
and here http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3535371#post3535371
there's some bits in here about that...
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237542
and here http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3535371#post3535371
Looking at some of those older threads. Did you get the half link chain in the end?
I had one of those; oh what the hell moments.
Took the bike to my local bike shop to have a new half link chain fitted and new a new sealed AHeadet (FSA).
Pick it up on Wednesday. Can't wait!
Just have to ride my Model C now.
One of the Faction riders told me that he grinded the axle slots in the rear dropouts about 10-15mm and it made a world of difference in pop and manuals...
Finally have one built up! Check it out.
Faction frame/fork/wheels/tires, some Stolen Cheater parts, and a few other odds and ends.
Faction frame/fork/wheels/tires, some Stolen Cheater parts, and a few other odds and ends.
Nice!
Thanks man.
I plan on trying some dirt jumping again using this. My first outing on the small beginner table-top jumps went OK on my 20" Dirtbike, but it felt really squirly and I busted kinda hard towards the end. I'm hoping the 22" will be a bit more stable for me.
I added this bike to the Museum if anyone wants to check out more details. There are only 3 Faction bikes listed on the Museum. Someone with an Amero needs to put one up over there! (hint hint).
Very nice!