40 Float Air Spring
- Thread starter HAB
- Start date
Like this? Old school coil equalization?
That's the first gen, don't know if they've changed or what you've got. You putting that stupid thing on your german zipcode mobile?
That looks pretty identical to the talas cartridges. Spacing down travel shouldn't do anything but offset the starting point if that's the case. No dimple or anything.
That's the first gen, don't know if they've changed or what you've got. You putting that stupid thing on your german zipcode mobile?
That looks pretty identical to the talas cartridges. Spacing down travel shouldn't do anything but offset the starting point if that's the case. No dimple or anything.
It looks like the new ones have an air negative spring that uses a dimple in the stanchion. So I'd have to cut the spring shaft down to lower it, I think. If anyone can confirm that would be cool.
And yeah, toying with the idea anyway. I need a new fork regardless. I have a line on a cheap 40 (because 26" wheels, so unrideable), and don't really see much downside over a 36. Not that much heavier, way stiffer, no cantilevered crown to creak, adjustable a-c height, etc.
And yeah, toying with the idea anyway. I need a new fork regardless. I have a line on a cheap 40 (because 26" wheels, so unrideable), and don't really see much downside over a 36. Not that much heavier, way stiffer, no cantilevered crown to creak, adjustable a-c height, etc.
Shit, you're right. When did they change that?
That sucks. Find an older one.
That sucks. Find an older one.
I haven't ridden the new ones but I have ridden some 2015/16 ones. I thought they were pretty good. Based on my experience with 36s, they shouldn't have changed them. You own this thing yet?
But I guess we are talking about a trail bike fork here so you know.....can't expect good performance really.
Every once in a while I have thoughts of buying a coil totem and slamming an RC2 fox damper in there. Don't tell anyone.
But I guess we are talking about a trail bike fork here so you know.....can't expect good performance really.
Every once in a while I have thoughts of buying a coil totem and slamming an RC2 fox damper in there. Don't tell anyone.
I think they changed them for 2015. So if the 2015 one you rode was good, it was that. I don't object to the design idea in principle either. It's definitely better than the 2015-17 36, with the transfer shaft deal. Too many moving seals, too much shit to bind. I've had few issues with mine, but it's still not a great idea.I haven't ridden the new ones but I have ridden some 2015/16 ones. I thought they were pretty good. Based on my experience with 36s, they shouldn't have changed them. You own this thing yet?
But I guess we are talking about a trail bike fork here so you know.....can't expect good performance really.
But you're right. This is a bike that I pedal places, so I better hold out for the Fit4 version. I need a lever that makes the fork feel like shit to have any hope of being able to climb anything.
I remember Steve from Vorsprung showing that spring in one of his early Tuesday videos. Don't remember which one...
2016+ Float 40 uses NA2 system, so its a dimple equalized positive and negative air spring system. To shorten the travel you would need to shorten the shaft and machine the threads and o-ring seat for the shaft stud.
Or I could, you know, buy another air shaft for it. Fox is good about selling small parts.^Kinda permanent, that fix, eh @HAB? (heh ahab).
Kinda thing you'd want be sure of. A sweet 40 dh fork. Altered for your trail bike. Can't put it back on your dh bike...... Because there's now that 40. Sittin on the front of that trail bike.
Looking at the assmebly drawing, there doesn't appear to be an o ring at the base stud end, just at the top of the shaft under the piston. Makes shortening it even easier.
The negative volume on the 40 is pretty huge, since it's got the Golden Mini-Dildo™ chamber thing going.
If anyone cares, I lowered one to 180mm. I actually had an old Dorado spring shaft kicking around that I cut down to fit, it's exactly the same OD, and started off way longer, so getting enough length out of it was easy. Works great, and I've still got the stock shaft un-fucked with if I ever want to go back to full travel.
Did you ever take any pics of the air shaft disassembled?
Just what's involved in doing this. Is the air shaft just literally a tapped aluminum rod?
I just weighed my tank 36. It's actually not as heavy as I thought: 5.76lbs
But still curious about maybe doing what you did.
Thinking about doing a boxxer too maybe
Of course this seems like too good of a deal to pass up
www.pinkbike.com
I just weighed my tank 36. It's actually not as heavy as I thought: 5.76lbs
But still curious about maybe doing what you did.
Thinking about doing a boxxer too maybe
Of course this seems like too good of a deal to pass up
1995 1996 RockShox Boxxer Pro For Sale
1995 1996 RockShox Boxxer Pro For sale on Pinkbike buysell
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Yeah, it's just an aluminum tube with female threads on both ends, and a chamfer for the o-ring to seat against. The only slightly hard thing about it is that the threads are mega fine pitch (I think M10x0.5) so it's not a tap everybody has lying around. I've got one though.
If I remember right, RS sells a 180mm air shaft for the Boxxer so that's easier.
If I remember right, RS sells a 180mm air shaft for the Boxxer so that's easier.
Or, you could dual air it and pump the neg chamber to whatever ride height youd like....
Just sayin
Just sayin
Which forks have an independently adjustable negative spring?
Some dood here on RM did one recently...
Fox 40 fulfill project AKA MOAR schraders
So i have two coil 40s and one air I cant ride for a while so i decided to whip my junk air fork that came on my used mondraker summum into shape. I had ridden it once or twice with the air fork and it felt like shit, so i swapped my coil on. The air fork came with 200 volume spacers in it and...
ridemonkey.bikemag.com
Yeah I don't have lathe
Looks pretty legit though.
You get some ride time yet?
Looks pretty legit though.
You get some ride time yet?
You could always do effectively the same thing, albeit crudely, by putting a bit more air than you want to run in the fork, then compressing it a bit and letting some out so that the chambers don't equalize. It'd at least be a way to experiment and see what travel you want to run before doing something more permanent.
Couple easy runs before covid set in.
Going to take some time to figure out exactly how i want it set up but it seemed better than the original air, seems linear enough i might actually put a volume spacer back in.
Stiction is low enough thay it does infact move when all 35lbs of mondraker rest upon it, meaning it actually has static sag. (it didnt do that before)
Going to take some time to figure out exactly how i want it set up but it seemed better than the original air, seems linear enough i might actually put a volume spacer back in.
Stiction is low enough thay it does infact move when all 35lbs of mondraker rest upon it, meaning it actually has static sag. (it didnt do that before)
I meant to try lowering it. You'd have to make a big enough change that it doesn't top out and get to the dimple, thus defeating the purpose. But if you have enough extra negative pressure to set it to 180mm of travel or so I bet it wouldn't get to the dimple.
Again, not advocating this long term. It'd be a pain in the ass to keep the pressure dialed and so on. But I bet it would work to try it at 180 for a ride or two before you hack up the spring shaft
Again, not advocating this long term. It'd be a pain in the ass to keep the pressure dialed and so on. But I bet it would work to try it at 180 for a ride or two before you hack up the spring shaft