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40 t cog cassette with sram derailleur

freeriding

Monkey
Jun 5, 2011
138
1
hallo!

i have an x0 short cage derailleur (not type 2) and the 40t cog couldn't work because there was not enough clearance.

am i doing something wrong?

i am thinking of buying an x9 type 2 derailleur short cage.

will that work? has anybody done it?

Regards
 

4130biker

PM me about Tantrum Cycles!
May 24, 2007
3,882
447
I think you may need a mid-cage for it to work at all. In the meantime, to get clearance, try turning that b-tension screw (the one that pushes against the bike's hanger) all the way in. Or even replace it with a longer unit from the hardware store.

Again, not sure if this big cog stuff even works with short cage, maybe someone here will chime in.
 

JLStout

Chimp
Mar 12, 2010
37
1
Redding Ca
You need either a medium cage or a long cage rear derailleur. I have a 42T rear on my 1x10 and it works fine. By the way, I switched to 1x10 because I couldn't get it to work on 1x9.
 

slimshady

¡Mira, una ardilla!
I'm hijacking this thread, please don't call the NSA. Which 40/42t cogs are you guys using? Did you go the "ditch the 15t cog" route? I found an interesting alternative (at least for my sluggish riding style), which involves taking out the 11t and replacing the lock ring for a 12t one.
 

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,504
In hell. Welcome!
I run 40T + 16T cogs from Wolftooth, this setup works and shifts great. If you replace the 11T with a 12T, you are not expanding the range with a bigger cog, you are shifting it. Why not get a larger chainring instead?
 

slimshady

¡Mira, una ardilla!
I run 40T + 16T cogs from Wolftooth, this setup works and shifts great. If you replace the 11T with a 12T, you are not expanding the range with a bigger cog, you are shifting it. Why not get a larger chainring instead?
I'm loosing just 1t at the top of the range vs adding 4 to the lower one. I run a 34t N/W chainring, and my problem isn't in the downhill stages, but in the climbing ones. The mod I described before doesn't replace the final cog, it just moves the whole cluster outboard and compensates the missing 11t cog by using a bigger lockring.
 

Metamorphic

Monkey
May 12, 2015
274
177
Cackalack
I'm hijacking this thread, please don't call the NSA. Which 40/42t cogs are you guys using? Did you go the "ditch the 15t cog" route? I found an interesting alternative (at least for my sluggish riding style), which involves taking out the 11t and replacing the lock ring for a 12t one.
OneUp 40t + 16t on an X9 mid cage rear der. 11t small cog, 32t ring. Works great, had to play with my limit screws, b-screw, and chain length a few times to really nail it. But I generally am teh suk at setting up derailleurs so I wasn't surprised.

Maybe I'm dummer than I thought....but did you say "replace the lock ring?" What does that mean?
 

slimshady

¡Mira, una ardilla!
OneUp 40t + 16t on an X9 mid cage rear der. 11t small cog, 32t ring. Works great, had to play with my limit screws, b-screw, and chain length a few times to really nail it. But I generally am teh suk at setting up derailleurs so I wasn't surprised.

Maybe I'm dummer than I thought....but did you say "replace the lock ring?" What does that mean?
Sorry, I totally forgot about this thread. I ended up ordering an e13 42t EXR cog and mixing and matching single cogs from a cheap Shimano 9sp cassete with my SRAM PG-1071 cassette. I first took off the 11t cog, installed the 42 back and replaced the original cassette lockring with a bigger one from a Miche road cassette (since the smaller cog got to be the 13t), but that left me spinning like crazy in the downhills. So that's when I tore apart a nearly unused 9sp Shimano cheap cassette I had laying around, took off the 15 and 17 cogs from the SRAM one and placed the 16t Shimano cog in between, leaving me with the 11t final cog (and the original lockring) for the DH part of the ride.

I'm also using a mid cage X9 Type 2 rear der. with a 34t Race Face N/W. Had this setup for almost 8 months now and I still have to drop a chain, even when riding trails with big, loose rocks.
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,580
2,005
Seattle
I'm loosing just 1t at the top of the range vs adding 4 to the lower one. I run a 34t N/W chainring, and my problem isn't in the downhill stages, but in the climbing ones. The mod I described before doesn't replace the final cog, it just moves the whole cluster outboard and compensates the missing 11t cog by using a bigger lockring.
Counting teeth isn't the way to measure though, it's ratios. 12/11 = 1.09, so it's 9% lower. 40/36 = 1.11, or 11% lower. You barely gave yourself more range with that setup. You could have accomplished pretty much the same thing by going to a 30t ring.