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$60 outta pocket for this - whattya think?

MMcG

Ride till you puke!
Dec 10, 2002
15,457
12
Burlington, Connecticut
Not bad right?

Frame, fork and components (Suntour Blaze stuff - not great I know, but functional) from a Craigslist ad.

Wheels from a Serotta Forum want ad (anyone heard of Saturne rims/wheels) for $20.00 including tubes and tires. Some guy sent them to me from Long Island - they are in need of a tiny bit of truing but overall they are in fine shape and the hubs spin nice and smooth. They seem pretty nice though for what I know about road wheels.

Seatpost and saddle borrowed from an old Kona Fire Mountain for the time being. It seemed like the 27.0 seatpost fit more properly than another 27.2 I had laying around and tried (seemed way too snug). I'll have to replace these two items eventually once I figure out what the heck I'm going to do with the Fire Mountain frame.

Pedals - extra set of Atacs I had layin around the parts bin.



Lugged steel - rides nice. Figured it would be good to have around ya know.

One question. I think originally it was designed for a 7 speed rear. These wheels came with a six speed (freewheel I think - I didn't take the time to inspect - just threw em on the bike last night). Can I just adjust the rear derailleur so that it'll work with the six cogs rather than seven?

I also want to get a sense of how big a tire I can ultimately run on it - it might make for a good rail trail/pavement/dirt road type of bike if I can fit some fatter meats on it. We still have some dirt roads that surround a state forest just up the road from me - hence that thinking.

Whattya think Monkeys?
 
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OGRipper

back alley ripper
Feb 3, 2004
10,655
1,129
NORCAL is the hizzle
You should be able to adjust the rear der to work but the indexed shifting will probably not work because the spacing is different for 6 vs. 7 cogs. You could probably run it friction style (i.e., no indexing).
 

MMcG

Ride till you puke!
Dec 10, 2002
15,457
12
Burlington, Connecticut
The rims have the word Saturne on them - does anyone know anything about these?

The hubs are not labeled at all. there are also wheelsmith stickers on the rims - I'm assuming those are the spokes used right?
 

OGRipper

back alley ripper
Feb 3, 2004
10,655
1,129
NORCAL is the hizzle
The rims have the word Saturne on them - does anyone know anything about these?

The hubs are not labeled at all. there are also wheelsmith stickers on the rims - I'm assuming those are the spokes used right?
I am pretty sure Wheelsmith spokes have a "W" imprinted on the spoke head, so you should be able to check the spokes pretty easily. As I recall, Wheelsmith puts stickers on wheels they build. These wheels were probably built by Wheelsmith for OE or aftermarket sale using generic hubs and rims.
 

MMcG

Ride till you puke!
Dec 10, 2002
15,457
12
Burlington, Connecticut
I am pretty sure Wheelsmith spokes have a "W" imprinted on the spoke head, so you should be able to check the spokes pretty easily. As I recall, Wheelsmith puts stickers on wheels they build. These wheels were probably built by Wheelsmith for OE or aftermarket sale using generic hubs and rims.
I'll look at em more closely tonight.

Any idea on the Saturne on the rims?
 

MMcG

Ride till you puke!
Dec 10, 2002
15,457
12
Burlington, Connecticut
You should be able to adjust the rear der to work but the indexed shifting will probably not work because the spacing is different for 6 vs. 7 cogs. You could probably run it friction style (i.e., no indexing).
Can you provide some step by steps to convert from index to friction? I suck as this part of bike maintenance.
 

OGRipper

back alley ripper
Feb 3, 2004
10,655
1,129
NORCAL is the hizzle
Can you provide some step by steps to convert from index to friction? I suck as this part of bike maintenance.
I'm reaching way back but as I recall you have to loosen the bolt that holds the shifter in place and then rotate the outer ring that is labeled with your options. (My memory is a little fuzzy but you should be able to choose between an "F" and a "7", with the "F" being friction.) You should be able to do it by hand in about 10 seconds.

Funny that I can hardly remember what I did yesterday but somehow that little bit of information is still in my head.
 

MMcG

Ride till you puke!
Dec 10, 2002
15,457
12
Burlington, Connecticut
I'm reaching way back but as I recall you have to loosen the bolt that holds the shifter in place and then rotate the outer ring that is labeled with your options. (My memory is a little fuzzy but you should be able to choose between an "F" and a "7", with the "F" being friction.) You should be able to do it by hand in about 10 seconds.

Funny that I can hardly remember what I did yesterday but somehow that little bit of information is still in my head.

Many thanks!

And from there I just fine tune the rear deraileur yes?
 

OGRipper

back alley ripper
Feb 3, 2004
10,655
1,129
NORCAL is the hizzle
Many thanks!

And from there I just fine tune the rear deraileur yes?
Yes, you'll need to adjust the limit screws on the rear derailleur to make sure it doesn't shift into the spokes or the frame - particularly since you're using 6 cogs where once there were 7. But that should be pretty much it - with friction shifting you don't have to worry about lining up the indexing via cable tension.