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Any Of You With A Machine Shop…

rideit

Bob the Builder
Aug 24, 2004
23,368
11,525
In the cleavage of the Tetons
Just got this from NSB.
I‘m kind of surprised and equally unsurprised that NSB wouldn’t have anticipated this market segment and sales opportunity. Sounds like they had no idea until today.


“The raceface spindle length is 149(149.5 maybe), ours is 148.5. I've emailed Rocky to see if they can give me some information, but I'm not sure if our threads are the same as the RFC for the cinch ring that would allow you to use the spider clutch.

Once we hear back from Rocky and maybe find a way to get our hands on one of their bikes (to figure out spacers and what not) we will have a better idea as to whether or not our cranks will work with powerplay bikes. We've gotten a ton of questions about the RM bikes today and I'm learning as I go haha.”
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
20,533
19,539
Canaderp
NSB has always been good with feedback and whatnot. They have always replied fairly quickly to my random emails about derailleur hangers.

Unlike a lot of other vendors that'll just ghost potential customers. :)
 

lobsterCT

Monkey
Jun 23, 2015
278
414
I just might, but my stable clamping system/skills are weak. It would be a hack job at best. And if you have ever ridden a crank that was drilled even the tiniest bit off…horrible.
Kid Woo is factually correct. Its a super simple setup, and you could do this N% as well on a drill press, as you could on a milling machine. Use safety glasses, and refrain from beverages until the job is complete! You need a few drill bits, taps, a countersink suitable for 5/8" hole, a couple misc washers, 4 pedal washers, and about a 1/4" thick piece of scrap aluminum or steel.

I drilled a 6.7MM hole, and tapped it with an M8-1.25 tap. (you could use whatever size you might have in your toolbox that fits through the pedal hole.

IMG_0154.jpg


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You could use blocks of wood in place of the AL angles in the last picture.

When you tap aluminum, if you don't have CRC, then WD-40 works well enough to get it done.

Use a spot drill or a center drill to make a divot where you will drill so the bit doesn't walk. After you have a divot,

then hit it with 1/4" drill, 3/8" drill, 1/2" drill, and finally a 37/64" drill. Then chamfer it with the countersink, Then tap it. When you tap, advance 270 degrees, then back off 180 degrees to break the chip, then advance another 270 degrees, then back off 180 degrees, etc. ..... till you make it all the way through.

You are likely to die horribly, but if you don't, enjoy!

EDIT: I forgot to mention, before you start, verify your drill press table is perpendicular to the drill. Put a long bit in the chuck, and use a square (from 2 directions 90 degrees off from each other) to make sure you are good.
 
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lobsterCT

Monkey
Jun 23, 2015
278
414
See? the guy drilling carbon cranks knows whats UP!
No drilling cranks for me. I'm sasquatch sized, and I break them just fine without helping the process along!

I don't mind spending 15 minutes though, to help a ridemonkey with a specific bike question. Machine shop is fun!

crank.jpg


(As Westy alluded to previously, IMO, the weight saving pockets on the back side of the Atlas crank make this whole idea questionable.)
 

englertracing

you owe me a sandwich
Mar 5, 2012
1,581
1,076
La Verne
okay, kids



View attachment 194491

View attachment 194492

Seems to be the only reasonable solution available right now. If they fail, BFD, they cost $125.
If any of you brilliant, ever-knowing wags have a better solution, lots of people want to hear it.
this looks pretty reasonable,
might actually want 170 or 175 to make more material in that area.
also IMO a drill press will do a pretty shit job
the right way is to put them in a mill pedal side up, indicate off of the spotface for level, and install a fastener to indicate around for center. Then offset the desired amount, spotface, drill, chamfer, tap.
Screenshot_20230530-170554~2.png
 

lobsterCT

Monkey
Jun 23, 2015
278
414
I agree with you that chamfering the hole, (and adding a countersink to the tool list) would be a helpful addition!

I also agree, that the statement they might be 98% successful relative to a possible milling machine set up, could have a bit of encouraging hyperbole in it. I pared that statement down to N% in edit!

Since Woo was the only one that I saw in the thread that offered to help, I figured to offer a solution within his likely parameters. And he could get it done fast, and go riding, or motorcycling, or consider his plaid, or otherwise enjoy himself, and still help out Rideit.

Thanks for your tips!
 

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
I agree with you that chamfering the hole, (and adding a countersink to the tool list) would be a helpful addition!

I also agree, that the statement they might be 98% successful relative to a possible milling machine set up, could have a bit of encouraging hyperbole in it. I pared that statement down to N% in edit!

Since Woo was the only one that I saw in the thread that offered to help, I figured to offer a solution within his likely parameters. And he could get it done fast, and go riding, or motorcycling, or consider his plaid, or otherwise enjoy himself, and still help out Rideit.

Thanks for your tips!
I just wanted to fuck up his cranks and watch him pedal all crooked