I had trouble until I read this part:
Not too long ago, I had the SSV conversion done to an RC4. My M9 has come alive! After riding it for a bit now, I'm ready to get a fork... I'm thinking Boxxer RC, then full AVY treatment!
Avalanche boxxer upgrade kit out! Will fit majority of forks!
- Thread starter bullcrew
- Start date
Obviously it completely replaces the lower end of the cartridge where the compression adjuster is and where the internal high-speed compression circuit is. I suppose I still don't get if it completely replaces the internal high speed circuit is, or if it adds to it.
I had the conversion done to a Fox Van RC a little while ago for my M9 (including extended reservoir), and yes... it's awesome.
I had the conversion done to a Fox Van RC a little while ago for my M9 (including extended reservoir), and yes... it's awesome.
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The HSB system is an add on option to the existing compression base valve shimmed system. The kit includes preload spacers, threshold spacers, and revalving shims to change the desired blow-off threshold, blow-off rate, amount of blow-off and the preload affect on the shim stack. It can be set-up with 3 optional blow-off rate springs, all can affect when the valving blows off and the rate at which it blows off. This effectively creates a more linear (medium rate spring), more progressive (firm rate spring) or more regressive (softer rate longer spring). The HSB system can be added to any of our 20 mm open bath cartridges as an option or can be retro fitted to your existing cartridge. In other words it can add more progression to your fork without harshness.
It's functionally real similar to a midvalve setup offered by a moto suspension company called Smart Performance Inc, but applied to the base valve instead of the midvalve. Pretty neat stuff.
It would be interesting to be able to adjust that preload externally in addition to the low speed bleed, but probably not feasible with the tiny footnut hole on most forks.
It would be interesting to be able to adjust that preload externally in addition to the low speed bleed, but probably not feasible with the tiny footnut hole on most forks.
Every time Craig posts stuff about the mindblowing stuff he does, I picture maniacal laughter and lightning bolts.
dude it ain't brake therapy
edit: aw man, he took down all his lightning
http://2btherapy.com/bikes/brake-therapy-conversion-kit
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Guys I need help
I just got a 2nd hand Boxxer with Avy but as the guy hasnt done any oil change I m planning to do it .
I've done plenty of reading and I am between Motul 2.5(16.00 CST40 / 3.50 CST 100 and VI at 95 ) and 5 W(18.30 4.20 and VI 138) factory line ?The Golden Spectro thing(16.90 3.82 VI 119 ) is not available in the UK : (
My current Boxxer 2010 has only dust wipers will it be an issue if I run the cartridge with just dust wipers.
I dont mind changing the oil now and then .
There is no point to tell you the weather in the UK is just wet or very wet in 8 out of 12 moths
Cheers
I just got a 2nd hand Boxxer with Avy but as the guy hasnt done any oil change I m planning to do it .
I've done plenty of reading and I am between Motul 2.5(16.00 CST40 / 3.50 CST 100 and VI at 95 ) and 5 W(18.30 4.20 and VI 138) factory line ?The Golden Spectro thing(16.90 3.82 VI 119 ) is not available in the UK : (
My current Boxxer 2010 has only dust wipers will it be an issue if I run the cartridge with just dust wipers.
I dont mind changing the oil now and then .
There is no point to tell you the weather in the UK is just wet or very wet in 8 out of 12 moths
Cheers
You need real seals. Any quality Moto fork oil will do fine. I'm selling my avy 888 if anyone is interested. Brand new lowers/bushings/seals.
I was under the impression that 5w oil was the standard weight when you added the Avy cartridge.
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Get whatever you can with similar CST as to what Avvy recommend. Forget "Wt". Close enough will do.
Cheers I know abt the WT thingy but I just cant find the same oil like Golden Spectro in the UK .
Probably will go with a 1 unit higher oil viscosity
These forks make the terrain feel like a motor way
Amazing cant wait to get the HSB as self install unit
Also have you got any idea when u choose your riding ability e.g beginner ,sport,semi pro-ex/pro or pro do you get different parts in the cartridge or it's just more shims ?
Cheers
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Definitely moar shimz.
Seriously though, unless you are Sam Hill pinning it you probably don't need to change your shim stack. Unless you are just very picky and somewhat knowledgeable about suspension setup, which seems unlikely based on your questions and comments. It takes a pretty astute suspension connoisseur to be able to feel and understand that your shim stack needs changing. Usually a combination of increasing spring rate and compression damping will suffice. As far as using a different viscosity oil than recommended, manufacturers have recommendations for a reason...I would stick to those for best results. If they suggest an exact brand that you are not able to get, just be sure to get a reputable brand of the same spec.
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Thank you for your reply btw
I am a newbie yes been riding for 1.5 year and trying to learn : )
Far from pinning it LOL
Yeah I will get some Motul probably but all these questions are based probably on my experience with the choppy feel of a Boxxers
Just had a rode today with d soft spring getting 25% sag and I was running full compression and almost open rebound.The other thing is when I drop the front end from 1-1.5 foot and all my weight goes on the front I use something like 7 inches of travel and I need a tiny bit more support.
When I came back home I installed the red spring and it gives me 20% sag and feels firmer
The fork tracks pretty nice on roots & rocks : )
Awesome stuff by Avy
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Thank you for your reply btw
I am a newbie yes been riding for 1.5 year and trying to learn : )
Far from pinning it LOL
Yeah I will get some Motul probably but all these questions are based probably on my experience with the choppy feel of a Boxxers
Just had a rode today with d soft spring getting 25% sag and I was running full compression and almost open rebound.The other thing is when I drop the front end from 1-1.5 foot and all my weight goes on the front I use something like 7 inches of travel and I need a tiny bit more support.
When I came back home I installed the red spring and it gives me 20% sag and feels firmer
The fork tracks pretty nice on roots & rocks : )
Awesome stuff by Avy
I put one of these in my boxxer last year. I am not a "race boy" by any means and I found the stock setting a bit "harsh" during high speed compresion and too fast rebound with the stock setup.
Adjusted the mid valve and HSC by lightening up the shim stack and added a bit more to the rebound shim stack. Loving it now!
Before I made the changes above I tried running the soft spring to alleviate some of the HSC harshness I used to have and I found it really slowed me down through slower rough stuff as it felt like the wheel dropped into every hole.
Anyone have the tool you need to open the cart up to pull it apart to retune it? If so, I want to buy it from you. PM me
Wow, I was just going to bump this thread, nice.
I have just tried my Avy cart without the hydraulic bottom cone thingy and with enough oil I prefer the more gradual ramp up. I didn't measure the closed length of the damper but is there any chance I am bottoming the damper or can anyone measure the closed length of the Avy damper?
I have just tried my Avy cart without the hydraulic bottom cone thingy and with enough oil I prefer the more gradual ramp up. I didn't measure the closed length of the damper but is there any chance I am bottoming the damper or can anyone measure the closed length of the Avy damper?
What fork?
Totem.
I drop Avy cart. on my Boxxer, and i have to say after 1 year using it i come back with rock shox cart., avy cart. vary a lot, if you using it for long descends forget it, i have some problems at whistler racing Garbanzo Crankworx Race, at the middle of the course the hydraulic side of the fork is baked, and i lost the rebound, im using recommended oil, shafts was good and no problems inside, i build the cart. exactly like user manual recomend, and if i ride strong more than 5 minutes without stop i always lost the bebound of the fork.
now im selling it, i used with boxxer WC
now im selling it, i used with boxxer WC
So you're saying the damping in your Avy cartridge started fading on you?? What did Craig have to say?
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Really only 2 or 3 things it could be, not enough oil (fork cap off, fill with correct oil, bleed all air bubbles by pumping the rod up and down, set level to 125 mm from top fully compressed) or it could be debris floating around and it gets stuck in the valving holding it open. It is also possible that the rebound piston ring is damaged or worn out.
Yeah, there is no way a properly working and assembled fork and is fading, no way.
i try bleed all air bubbles by pumping the rod up and down, set level to 125 mm from top fully compressed, im using Maxima 150/85 fork fluid, but no way, i ride some days here at brazil and my fork change rebound speed, is there another problem to consider? thanks
Must be something wrong with it, will you take $100 posted to Australia?
On a different note mine is finally working well in the Totem, I refaced the mounting surface for the damper and it now sits straight. I have also cut and ground the spring and added a much longer top out spring so the fork is quite a bit softer for the first 15-20mm of the stroke so it is much better for small bumps..
Very happy with the fork now, running 5Wt Redline it feels supper snappy yet holds it's composure while I could never get the stock damper to feel quick enough even with Redline 2.5Wt. I would mos definitely say there is now no more stiction with the Totem over a Boxxer.
The shaft on my Avy damper still looks like crap and I will have to keep an eye on it to see if any of the hard coating or anno comes off.
On a different note mine is finally working well in the Totem, I refaced the mounting surface for the damper and it now sits straight. I have also cut and ground the spring and added a much longer top out spring so the fork is quite a bit softer for the first 15-20mm of the stroke so it is much better for small bumps..
Very happy with the fork now, running 5Wt Redline it feels supper snappy yet holds it's composure while I could never get the stock damper to feel quick enough even with Redline 2.5Wt. I would mos definitely say there is now no more stiction with the Totem over a Boxxer.
The shaft on my Avy damper still looks like crap and I will have to keep an eye on it to see if any of the hard coating or anno comes off.
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Change that Maxima stuff often. Consistent and cheap, but it breaks down VERY fast. Works out well overall if you cycle it out often and just keep it fresh.
Im hoping craig can chime in here.
Im servicing some 2012 boxxer race with the avalanche cart .
The hole in the lowers is prefectly central but when i tighten the cart down it presses on the inner stanchion.
Seeming one side of the lowers is thicker than the other.
Is there a way to overcome this?
Im servicing some 2012 boxxer race with the avalanche cart .
The hole in the lowers is prefectly central but when i tighten the cart down it presses on the inner stanchion.
Seeming one side of the lowers is thicker than the other.
Is there a way to overcome this?
I couldn't run the hydraulic bottom out lock ring on my Totem as I would get metal on metal contact near bottom. I'd suggest, tighten the damper, pop the spring side cap off, undo the Avy Cart at the top of the fork and see if it winds in easily at the top, if not the damper mounting surface may be machined incorrectly.
RS stuff is ****, trade someone for a 888.
RS stuff is ****, trade someone for a 888.
Well yes the same is happening to these also the stanchion rubs on the grey bottom out bit when you try to fully compress the stanchion.
So it could be possible the spring side will be better for it?
So it could be possible the spring side will be better for it?
No sorry, it has to be on that side, I just saw the pics in the other thread and replied there haha.
The lower castings on some Boxxers are not square and flat at the bottom of the casting, this is causing misalignment with the ABS cone and oil-lock ring. It needs to be straightened up with a bit of internal sanding. A round sanding sticky disc can be attached to a plug in in the end of your stanchion and used to sand away the high spot, this will straighten it up in just a few minutes. We can reinstall your damper for you and fix this problem if you wish to send it to us.
Thanks for the input Craig.
And thanks for the offer to reinstall it for me.
I dont want to trouble you with my problems LOL!
So basically what you are saying get really rough sand paper or emery paper
Stick it to the top cap from the spring side stanchion and put it in the leg and basically sand away with a rolling in hand morion like making fire with sticks.
Strange question how will i know when it is done?
Just by test fitting it every so often?
And thanks for the offer to reinstall it for me.
I dont want to trouble you with my problems LOL!
So basically what you are saying get really rough sand paper or emery paper
Stick it to the top cap from the spring side stanchion and put it in the leg and basically sand away with a rolling in hand morion like making fire with sticks.
Strange question how will i know when it is done?
Just by test fitting it every so often?
You will see the sanded area start out as a half moon then as you continue the sanded area will form a full circle, now you know the high spot is flat and you are done now.
I'm always impressed with what new things RS manages to mess up on boxxers. I wonder if they could be made any more poorly, yet still work just enough for people gush over them.
RS is certainly to blame for not building their lowest end Boxxer to work perfectly with Avalanche's aftermarket upgrade.
Thanks for the advice all , but i think im going to advise him to get a refund as it seems a lot of hassle and messing to get the cart central.
I know Craig has offered to sort it out but living in UK it would cost about £140.00 to send it , have it returned and then pay the import tax.
Thanks again
I know Craig has offered to sort it out but living in UK it would cost about £140.00 to send it , have it returned and then pay the import tax.
Thanks again
First of all the cartridge is barely off center, the fork bends back and forth more that this under normal riding conditions, so fine tuning the casting bottom is really an option and not necessary. It will actually only take 5 minutes to fix if you try the sand paper trick, don't see why it would warrant drastic measures like sending it to us or returning the cartridge.
When bolted down the cartridge pushes up against the inside of the stanchion.
Also i did no mean send it back to you i meant sending it so you could fit it properly.
I meant for it to be returned to the seller he bought it from on ebay.
Are you sure the bottom-out bumper has been removed. Sorry for the confusion about the amount it is off-center, yes if it is this far-off then it will need to be sanded a bit more but still should only take about 5 minutes to clean it up with 80 grit.
Yeah the rubber bumper has been removed , i just hope the sanding works on it.
Hello there guys
I've got a problem with my Avy : ( It's a nice upgrade over the R2C2 but went to Fort William and I had to pump my fork to 90-95 psi and I am only 65 kg(145 lbs ). Boxxer WC 2012
The good thing is I don't have any blisters after riding there for 6 days which would be the case with my old damper
The point is that the the fork is setup with max progression (tried it without any progression) and sometimes you just cant hold a line : ( You know running so over sprung suspension it's just crazy.
Tried it with 65-70 psi 10LSC and wasn't better by any means. I was using something like 7 inches on a fast rock garden it's bloody crazy : (
Just because I bought it 2nd hand and have no idea how was setup what do you guys suggest ?
Shall I go for more shimz or leave it over sprung.In the latest scenario I dont like the fact I cant pump the bike that much in corners and getting tired quicker : (
One last question any ideas when the High Speed Blow-off System from Graig will be available for self installing ?
I live in the UK so sending it to the States is out of d question
If someone knows the difference between the different tunes from Avy's web like Beginner,Sport,Pro and etc
I guess mine has pretty light valving ;(
Cheers guys
I've got a problem with my Avy : ( It's a nice upgrade over the R2C2 but went to Fort William and I had to pump my fork to 90-95 psi and I am only 65 kg(145 lbs ). Boxxer WC 2012
The good thing is I don't have any blisters after riding there for 6 days which would be the case with my old damper
The point is that the the fork is setup with max progression (tried it without any progression) and sometimes you just cant hold a line : ( You know running so over sprung suspension it's just crazy.
Tried it with 65-70 psi 10LSC and wasn't better by any means. I was using something like 7 inches on a fast rock garden it's bloody crazy : (
Just because I bought it 2nd hand and have no idea how was setup what do you guys suggest ?
Shall I go for more shimz or leave it over sprung.In the latest scenario I dont like the fact I cant pump the bike that much in corners and getting tired quicker : (
One last question any ideas when the High Speed Blow-off System from Graig will be available for self installing ?
I live in the UK so sending it to the States is out of d question
If someone knows the difference between the different tunes from Avy's web like Beginner,Sport,Pro and etc
I guess mine has pretty light valving ;(
Cheers guys