Boxxer oil?
- Thread starter Dirtbike
- Start date
what model boxxer are you referring to?
Like Mike said depends on what year and model
everybody with a boxxer should save this chart...
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/service/oil_chart.pdf
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/service/oil_chart.pdf
I've run a number of different oils in the new boxxer, and the nicest i've found is Silkolene Pro RSF. It's got a very high viscosity index (ie minimal viscosity change over a temperature range), and therefore meets the standards for use in shocks also.
Same story with Redline oils, but having tried both, my preference is the Silkolene. It's also heaps cheaper here.
I'm running 150ml of 5wt for the damper, 5ml of 10wt for the air spring, and 20ml of 10wt per lower leg for bushing lube. A little more than recommended for bushing lube to be on the safe side.
Same story with Redline oils, but having tried both, my preference is the Silkolene. It's also heaps cheaper here.
I'm running 150ml of 5wt for the damper, 5ml of 10wt for the air spring, and 20ml of 10wt per lower leg for bushing lube. A little more than recommended for bushing lube to be on the safe side.
Anyone know if one can order a COMPLETE seal kit for a Boxxer team. Mine is leaking from just about every oil seal on there, including the MoCo assembly. (Usual problem with the kinked o-ring under the LSC ajuster I suspect). Need new ioil seals for the lowers too. Figure Rock Shox might sell a complete overhaul kit or something.
Stupid question, BUT... when you guys are saying left and right leg, are you referring to when you're sitting on the bike or looking at it dead on?
If you want to save some money, just remove all the seals and take them into a good seal shop. Over here we have a few big warehouse style shops that just sell seals / o-rings and the like - guessing you probably have similar stuff there.
For the main pressure seals it's worth chasing up NOK ones (same brand as marzocchi/avy use and should last longer), and the o-rings are all standard sizes that can be matched pretty easily.
The seal under the LSC adjuster (actually under the reverse threaded topcap) is a pressure seal also, rather than an o-ring. Should be able to get that matched too, usually it just needs checking that it's straight though.
You could probably come out with a shopping bill of $10-12 that way, but otherwise what Dirtbike said will probably do the trick.
Not really.
24mm socket for topcap (I use 15/16" for a better fit)
5mm allen key for footnuts
Circlip pliers for circlips holding in stanchion plugs
Silicone grease for all seals
And some highend oils
Sitting on the bike is always the reference point. Right leg = damper, left leg = spring (air or coil).
Udi, Cheers, I figured you'd chime in sooner or later.
So now riddle me this: The boxxer chassis uses 32mm stanchions. Is the internal bore of the seal therefore:
a) 31.5mm
b) 32.5mm
c) 1 1/4"
These are the only close standard sizes I've been able to find. If anyone has part numbers, I would pronounce them most awesome. The title of especialy awesome is witheld for those offering similar info for the seals in the MoCo assembly...
So now riddle me this: The boxxer chassis uses 32mm stanchions. Is the internal bore of the seal therefore:
a) 31.5mm
b) 32.5mm
c) 1 1/4"
These are the only close standard sizes I've been able to find. If anyone has part numbers, I would pronounce them most awesome. The title of especialy awesome is witheld for those offering similar info for the seals in the MoCo assembly...
Stanchion pressure seals (x2) are:
32x42x7mm
MoCo outer o-rings (x3) are:
N7 117 (20.29x2.62mm)
MoCo pressure seal I measured at:
11x19x3.5mm
You'd probably want to remove that one and get it matched though, to make sure you get the right type. It's a pressure seal, but a soft one - no metal core or anything. I haven't had to buy one.
32x42x7mm
MoCo outer o-rings (x3) are:
N7 117 (20.29x2.62mm)
MoCo pressure seal I measured at:
11x19x3.5mm
You'd probably want to remove that one and get it matched though, to make sure you get the right type. It's a pressure seal, but a soft one - no metal core or anything. I haven't had to buy one.
Does that include the pressure seals / dust wipers too? if so it's a pretty good deal.
But otherwise, the seal shop is the go. The pressure seals are about $4 each, and I got enough o-rings to do about 3 rebuilds for 50c. Did my solo air cart and she's running gorgeous.
But otherwise, the seal shop is the go. The pressure seals are about $4 each, and I got enough o-rings to do about 3 rebuilds for 50c. Did my solo air cart and she's running gorgeous.
Udi, you have rightfully earned your title of especialy awesome. Even so, none of the seal suppliers I tried (Wriason, Mcmaster etc) listed a 32mm ID pressure seal for the stanchion. Will keep searching.
That rebuild kit sounds pretty reasonable, but I'd be surprised if it includes wipers/oil seals for the lowers. A set of those alone costs about $30CDN. I've asked my LBS to do some research for me today so hopefully I'll post back later.
That rebuild kit sounds pretty reasonable, but I'd be surprised if it includes wipers/oil seals for the lowers. A set of those alone costs about $30CDN. I've asked my LBS to do some research for me today so hopefully I'll post back later.
guys remember you can use marzocchi oil seals on boxxers, only mod needed is a bit of trimming to the underside of the dust seals, really recommeded.
Ted, if you are in a decient sized city, grab the yellow pages and look up hydraulic sales/sevice and make some calls. If you need, just bring in you fork lowers and they can check/match the seals. Some bearing suppliers also have lip/pressure seals or should atleast be able to point you in the right direction. I have had good luck here in seattle finding any seal/wiper/o-ring ever needed....even making a dorado hold oil by adding a true oil seal.
Thanks DaveP. I'm going to strip the fork tonight and take the bits to a seal supplier tomorrow morning to see what I can find. I'll post up the part no.s tomorrow if I'm successful. For now, I borrowed the Gaco catelogue from our machine shop. They list a wiper seal of dimensions 32mmID*45mmOD*10mm seal height * 7mm housing depth. Part no. RS.32457. Sounds like a possible candidate...
Well, it would appear no such "kit" is available here in Canada, at least through either of the major distributors. Off to take my fork apart to see if I can get some measurements/part no.s...
Yeah a good seal shop should be able to help you out with what you need for a lot less money. Local is best so you can take in and get everything matched.
Alternatively, like vitox said - marzocchi 32mm oil seals work, you just have to cut a small section out from under the RS dust seal (not needed anyway). If you do a search, there's a thread on it here with pics.
Alternatively, like vitox said - marzocchi 32mm oil seals work, you just have to cut a small section out from under the RS dust seal (not needed anyway). If you do a search, there's a thread on it here with pics.
where are u in canada big-ted?
Same place as you! 
No luck with the fork. It's screwed.
I can't get the left hand threaded top cap to remain tight on the cheap plastic MoCo assembly as I tighten down the top-cap. I've destroyed the top cap trying to get the whole thing tight, and it's made from an alloy with a consistency approximately equal to butter. Not to mention the fact that the threads on the ****ty plastic damper body are now almost stripped from all my wrestling. I've got it back together as best I can, but there's no way it's going to hold oil, and I'm leaving Thursday night for the first major race of the season. I'm pretty pissed right now. Why can't people build forks to last anymore? My old Cherry Red Boxxers lasted four years with only basic servicing.
No luck with the fork. It's screwed.
I can't get the left hand threaded top cap to remain tight on the cheap plastic MoCo assembly as I tighten down the top-cap. I've destroyed the top cap trying to get the whole thing tight, and it's made from an alloy with a consistency approximately equal to butter. Not to mention the fact that the threads on the ****ty plastic damper body are now almost stripped from all my wrestling. I've got it back together as best I can, but there's no way it's going to hold oil, and I'm leaving Thursday night for the first major race of the season. I'm pretty pissed right now. Why can't people build forks to last anymore? My old Cherry Red Boxxers lasted four years with only basic servicing.
Whoa, gotta be gentle. I've had a lot better luck with repeated servicing on the new boxxers than I have with marzocchi and old boxxers.
For the alloy topcap, it's not that soft - it just has fairly shallow flats for the socket to sit on. A tip fox give is to grind your socket's face down so it's flush, rather than having the angled edges to make it easy to get on bolts (because those angled bits mean that the actual flats of the socket barely touch the topcap flats). This gets a better grip on the topcap and makes it less likely to strip. As a habit I also make sure I just torque the topcaps lightly and hold the socket down firmly while I tighten.
For the reverse thread topcap on the plastic spring tube, never had it unthread on tightening myself, but my suggestion would be (after checking/replacing the seal) clean the male and female threads with alcohol and use a dab of CA glue on them before tightening. Doesn't need to be too tight. Let it cure, and then install the cartridge as usual.
Hope you get it sorted, it's not that critical or under much strain so if you can get it together somehow it should hold you through.
For the alloy topcap, it's not that soft - it just has fairly shallow flats for the socket to sit on. A tip fox give is to grind your socket's face down so it's flush, rather than having the angled edges to make it easy to get on bolts (because those angled bits mean that the actual flats of the socket barely touch the topcap flats). This gets a better grip on the topcap and makes it less likely to strip. As a habit I also make sure I just torque the topcaps lightly and hold the socket down firmly while I tighten.
For the reverse thread topcap on the plastic spring tube, never had it unthread on tightening myself, but my suggestion would be (after checking/replacing the seal) clean the male and female threads with alcohol and use a dab of CA glue on them before tightening. Doesn't need to be too tight. Let it cure, and then install the cartridge as usual.
Hope you get it sorted, it's not that critical or under much strain so if you can get it together somehow it should hold you through.
There's no way it's holding. The MoCo body has come detached from the top cap, so I can now rotate the LSC adjuster 360 degrees, which tells me there's absolutely NO preload on the seal which was the problem in the first place. I don't want to take it apart again. I've done enough damage. I'm going to run it for the weekend.
When I get back I might shell out the $160 for an entire new MoCo assembly, or I might just send it off and tell the service agent to sort it. If I had the cash, I'd be getting shot. I'm done with Rock Shox. In contrast, my girlfriend's Marzocchis, whilst they needed some bizarre propriatory tools, were a sinch to service, and these was literally nothing in there that I could imagine getting damaged...
I dunno, I'm in a bad mood now. Another reason I don;t want to take it apart again. My new frame finally arrives tomorrow. I have none of the parts I need to build it up, and now, even when I get those sorted, I'm going to have a leaking fork to sort out before it runs like it should.
Off to bed...
When I get back I might shell out the $160 for an entire new MoCo assembly, or I might just send it off and tell the service agent to sort it. If I had the cash, I'd be getting shot. I'm done with Rock Shox. In contrast, my girlfriend's Marzocchis, whilst they needed some bizarre propriatory tools, were a sinch to service, and these was literally nothing in there that I could imagine getting damaged...
I dunno, I'm in a bad mood now. Another reason I don;t want to take it apart again. My new frame finally arrives tomorrow. I have none of the parts I need to build it up, and now, even when I get those sorted, I'm going to have a leaking fork to sort out before it runs like it should.
Off to bed...
Morning all. I'm in a better frame of mind now. I'm going to try crazy gluing it tonight as a temporary fix, then get a new MoCo assembly after the weekend.
I also noticed this
Scroll down to page 7. Notice that the MoCo assembly is listed as NEW. Whether or not this is a newly released part, or a revised one I have no idea.
Also, I assume the service kit mentioned above is part no 19. Unfortunately, it doesn't include the problem seal, which is the conical seal underneath the MoCo top cap, so no good to me.
I also noticed this
Scroll down to page 7. Notice that the MoCo assembly is listed as NEW. Whether or not this is a newly released part, or a revised one I have no idea.
Also, I assume the service kit mentioned above is part no 19. Unfortunately, it doesn't include the problem seal, which is the conical seal underneath the MoCo top cap, so no good to me.
if worse comes to worse you can run the fork w/o the moco assy and just a top cap from a duke or reba or something like that real cheap, no compression damping of course but also no worries that something might not hold up.
I bought my oil seals from bc bearings on annacis island. i bet you could purchase all your seals from them as well.
OK, I think I got it!
Things I've learned:
A ground down 24mm socket is indispensable. It makes it so much easier to get purchase on the top caps, even previously rounded ones!
Thanks to Udi for this tip.
Don't try to work outside, in the rain, as it's getting dark and you're tired as all hell.
Make sure the o-rings on the outside of the MoCo assembly stay seated as you slide the assembly passed the threads on the inside of the stanchion. This was my problem last night, which was causing the cartridge to bind as I turned the top cap.
The external o rings are standard part no's 2-117. Thanks again to Udi here.
Make sure the LSC is set to open before trying to insert the MoCo cartridge. It makes it an awful lot easier!
Thanks everyone for all your help. Udi, if you're near Vancouver in the next four years, I owe you some beers and some rides.
I fully expect the conical o-ring to go again. I think I'm just going to pick up a load and prepare for the worst. The last one lasted 8 months or so. When I have the part number, I'll post up here for the benefit of all.
Things I've learned:
A ground down 24mm socket is indispensable. It makes it so much easier to get purchase on the top caps, even previously rounded ones!
Thanks to Udi for this tip.Don't try to work outside, in the rain, as it's getting dark and you're tired as all hell.
Make sure the o-rings on the outside of the MoCo assembly stay seated as you slide the assembly passed the threads on the inside of the stanchion. This was my problem last night, which was causing the cartridge to bind as I turned the top cap.
The external o rings are standard part no's 2-117. Thanks again to Udi here.
Make sure the LSC is set to open before trying to insert the MoCo cartridge. It makes it an awful lot easier!
Thanks everyone for all your help. Udi, if you're near Vancouver in the next four years, I owe you some beers and some rides.
I fully expect the conical o-ring to go again. I think I'm just going to pick up a load and prepare for the worst. The last one lasted 8 months or so. When I have the part number, I'll post up here for the benefit of all.