Quantcast

Bye Bye Ohlins

William42

fork ways
Jul 31, 2007
3,913
647
Looks good. They finally acknowledged that pressfit sucks ass, and are going threaded. I'm not sure what threaded tech has changed, but glad they listened to everybody telling them pressfit was the fucking worst.
 

slyfink

Turbo Monkey
Sep 16, 2008
9,316
5,070
Ottawa, Canada
Looks good. They finally acknowledged that pressfit sucks ass, and are going threaded. I'm not sure what threaded tech has changed, but glad they listened to everybody telling them pressfit was the fucking worst.
Funny you should point that out. a day after I read this:
Ryan Palmer said:
So why on earth do companies continue to produce bikes with non-threaded bottom brackets? Because, carbon. You can't cut 24tpi threads into the type of carbon that frames are made out of, so putting a threaded bottom bracket shell onto a carbon frame requires glueing a large aluminum part into the frame--which requires two different materials to be bonded--which isn't ideal. ... Engineers can create better carbon bike frames if they don't need to design around big aluminum parts being bonded into high-stress areas. It's sort of like the only analog thing left in a digital world. That's why press-fit hasn't gone away--it's actually why it shouldn't. Think about it this way: without threadless headsets there'd be no carbon steerer tubes. It's called progress.
source

I wonder who is right?! Personally, I think Specialized is big enough to influence the rest of the industry. It's not because something is hard to do that it shouldn't be done. Hats off to Spesh for doing this.
 
Last edited:

William42

fork ways
Jul 31, 2007
3,913
647
I'd suggest that the person who is right is the one who comes up with the best solution for installing a bottom bracket that can last a significant amount of time without coming loose, creaking, and generally creating problems. A bike is the sum of its parts, and if you improve one area (frame strength/stiffness/weight) at a significant cost to another area, you can simultaneously make a better frame and a worse bike.

People have been building carbon bikes with threaded BB's for a long time. Bonding a threaded aluminum sleeve to a carbon frame isn't something new, difficult, or even cost prohibitive. It worked quite well in the past, and continues to work well.
 

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
I'd suggest that the person who is right is the one who comes up with the best solution for installing a bottom bracket that can last a significant amount of time without coming loose, creaking, and generally creating problems. A bike is the sum of its parts, and if you improve one area (frame strength/stiffness/weight) at a significant cost to another area, you can simultaneously make a better frame and a worse bike.

People have been building carbon bikes with threaded BB's for a long time. Bonding a threaded aluminum sleeve to a carbon frame isn't something new, difficult, or even cost prohibitive. It worked quite well in the past, and continues to work well.
But I really like potentially ruining a perfectly good set of BB cups when I need to move them to another frame.
 

Happymtb.fr

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2016
1,913
1,268
SWE
Apparently there is no Öhlins because Specialized is not to keen on Öhlins using there networks of dealers... politics between lizards in other words!
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,061
5,970
borcester rhymes
didn't the last stumpjumper have a shit shock rate that couldn't take advantage of modern, high volume negative spring shock because of incredibly high pressure required for appropriate sag?

either way, this is a nice revision to the stumpy. Need to see some closer images to see if they changed the suspension at all besides the linkage.
 

William42

fork ways
Jul 31, 2007
3,913
647
Honestly I want to like specialized (and trek and giant) a lot. I appreciate the business model of a ton of specs for different price points as well as variety in sizes, in addition to great support and parts everywhere, but they sure don't make it easy. Shit like proprietary parts and the fact that you can spend equal amounts of money for significantly better specced bikes from brands like YT make it tough to justify.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,960
9,630
AK
FUCK Specialized.

There. I said it.

:D
Buddy just got a new high end specialized-something-or-other XC FS bike to race for the upcoming season. I feel bad for him. Any company that specs Next cranks on BB92 should be openly chastised.
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
85,839
24,423
media blackout
Funny you should point that out. a day after I read this:

source

I wonder who is right?! Personally, I think Specialized is big enough to influence the rest of the industry. It's not because something is hard to do that it shouldn't be done. Hats off to Spesh for doing this.
that's all fine and dandy now, but seems to neglect the fact that press fit started taking over long before the industry's carbon fetish went full steam ahead.
 

William42

fork ways
Jul 31, 2007
3,913
647
Not to mention both road and mountain bikes have been doing carbon + alu sleave for decades as far as I can tell.
 

Flo33

Turbo Monkey
Mar 3, 2015
2,065
1,304
Styria
My favorite quote is this:

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/the-differences-between-the-three-new-specialized-stumpjumpers.html said:
(...) with a new shock linkage and compatibility with standard metric shocks.
So I can fit all my 200x57mm and 216x63mm shocks, right? Coz these are standard metric shocks in The Metric Paradise of the EU.


It's these subtle linguistic pricks that really proof the independent coverage of online bikezines.
 

William42

fork ways
Jul 31, 2007
3,913
647
The only threaded AL sleeve in a carbon bike that I broke was in a Specialized. Just saying...
Rough! I haven't seen a ton of broken sleeves with alu inserts, but it definitely happens. Just seems to be orders of magnitude less frequent than problems with pressfit BB's.
 

Happymtb.fr

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2016
1,913
1,268
SWE
Just seems to be orders of magnitude less frequent than problems with pressfit BB's.
As a sidenote, how many of these pressfit BB issues are related to the brand of the BB? After removing all the cases with a 30mm spindle which was plain silliness and all the cases where the frame dimensions were outside the tolerances for this type of BB.

My race face BB with 24mm spindle lasted 50km while I have done more than 1000km on several Shimano BB also with 24mm spindle without issues. It's my first time with race face and I don't want to jump to conclusions too fast
 

Olly

Monkey
Oct 1, 2015
157
76
My race face BB with 24mm spindle lasted 50km while I have done more than 1000km on several Shimano BB also with 24mm spindle without issues.
I've never used a press-fit BB, but I had exactly the same experience with threaded BBs :)

(Edit - I've had a Hope BB in my trail bike for a very long time now so my experiences aren't exactly up to date...)
 
Last edited:

slimshady

¡Mira, una ardilla!
As a sidenote, how many of these pressfit BB issues are related to the brand of the BB? After removing all the cases with a 30mm spindle which was plain silliness and all the cases where the frame dimensions were outside the tolerances for this type of BB.

My race face BB with 24mm spindle lasted 50km while I have done more than 1000km on several Shimano BB also with 24mm spindle without issues. It's my first time with race face and I don't want to jump to conclusions too fast
Anecdotal data is irrelevant. My RF BBs have outlasted Shimano ones for the simple reason the latter chooses to use bearings with just THE OUTSIDE FACING FUCKING SIDE SEALED. And since I frequently face rainy/wet rides, water ends up killing them. RF has better bearings, and I'm able to replace them at home.
 

slimshady

¡Mira, una ardilla!
I wouldn't mind if you have a link to a tutorial or something showing how it goes and the dimensions of the bearings
The bearings are 6805 2RS, pretty standard. To disassemble them you either take the BB off the bike and use a bearing puller or modify a steel towel rod/broom stick to make it like the Park Tool one:



... or you could also do as I do: remove the cranks, heat the BB cups a little (in the summer I just leave the bike in the sun, since it's not crabon and it won't disintegrate) and gently tap the outer rim of the bearing off with a flat-bladed screwdriver and a rubber mallet. The aluminium in the BB cups will expand faster than the steel of the bearings and they will come out easily. Don't forget to take the plastic axle spacers off the bearings before attempting to remove them.

EDIT: Here is a good tutorial on this matter: https://www.haydnwilliams.com/blog/race-face-bb-bearings
 
Last edited:

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,960
9,630
AK
The $40 blind bearing kit that I've seen people selling for $200 came in handy on Wednesday when my RF bearings started to crunch on my training ride. Otherwise, the external bearings can be the hardest to get out, with nothing to really get a "bite" on for a punch. The press-fit usually have something in there that is much easier to get ahold of, at least for me.
 

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,505
In hell. Welcome!
In 9.5 out of 10 cases, you can just repack the external RF bearings in situ, no need to pull them. One notable exception being a RF BSA BB cup with the bearing pressed inside out, having non removable seal on the outside.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,960
9,630
AK
In 9.5 out of 10 cases, you can just repack the external RF bearings in situ, no need to pull them. One notable exception being a RF BSA BB cup with the bearing pressed inside out, having non removable seal on the outside.
Proper way to repack bearings is force grease through them to replace the grease that is contaminated with stuff that wears down the balls and races. No way I'd repack bearings without being able to do this. My bearings were going all crunchy anyway. Either my bearings were bad or my Next cranks are coming off the spindle. Equally likely.
 

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,505
In hell. Welcome!
Proper way to repack bearings is force grease through them to replace the grease that is contaminated with stuff that wears down the balls and races. No way I'd repack bearings without being able to do this. My bearings were going all crunchy anyway. Either my bearings were bad or my Next cranks are coming off the spindle. Equally likely.
You can wash the old grease off with isop.alc., let dry and pack fresh. Good enough for me, I am getting years from them when done frequently enough. Fuck pulling them out and pressing in every three weeks.