chain too long when using 40\42 teeth cassette
- Thread starter saruti
- Start date
That can't work. If you really need an additional chain tensioner (which I doubt), it has to go below the BB. Got any pictures of your current setup, preferably in the most stretched position?
every pedal stroke you take is going to start with you taking the slack out of your tensioner.
just run a small upper guide, or a full guide and the proper length chain
just run a small upper guide, or a full guide and the proper length chain
Honestly that does not look like a long cage RD to me.
Compare to this. How long is your cage, axle to axle?
Compare to this. How long is your cage, axle to axle?
On top of that, the tensioner won't do isht - it won't have enough force to pull the chain 'coz it would have to spin the rear wheel / propel you forward to do so.
)That's a medium cage, which is probably ideal for your setup (assuming the clutch still works). I'd start by adjusting that chain guide properly, it looks like it's sitting way too high. If that doesn't help then I'd probably replace that chainring next, the teeth look pretty worn. If you're still dropping chains then you might need a guide with a lower pulley/ slider. You don't need an extra chain tensioner.
I have a similiar setup- same derailleur, 11-42 one-up rear, 28t narrow wide front. It was mentioned previously, but the only difference in my setup is that I have the long B tension screw, and it's cranked in apparently quite a bit more than yours. aside from the sluggish shifting, I have sufficient (what I would consider "normal") chain tension in the 11t.
Chain was sized as short as possible, in the big cog, with the bike bottomed out.
Chain was sized as short as possible, in the big cog, with the bike bottomed out.
In the photo where the drailuer is being pulled tight, I think you could get away with removing 1-2 links (possibly even more) and still have some slack. That derailuer still has some room to stretch.
you can also tighten the tension on the clutch...the work loose over time, occasionally. carefully work the cap loose (next to the lockout button), tighten maybe 1/4-1/8 turn...
it'll also drop if the front ring is too worn.
it'll also drop if the front ring is too worn.
If you haven't cleaned the "narrow" portions of the front ring make sure to do so. Mine was dropping all the time until I cleaned them out good with a flat head screw driver. They tend to accumulate dirt and chainlube which prevents the chain from dropping in deep enough.
Your top guide is too high.
The reasons I linked to the One-Up guide above.
1 set-up instructions are idiot proof.
2 The little One-up guide does a better job of both retaining the chain and clearing of mud than ALL of the pointlessly long enclosed guide plates found derived from most DH top guides.
3 the shorter guide plastics of the One-up doesn't need to be compromised (angle/height) to allow for swing arm clearance.
A properly set-up top guide will help keep your chain on the ring even if your drivetrain is worn and your clutch mechanism loose. Yours isn't doing it's job.
For years (way before the existance of One-up) I'd bodged/made/cut all my top guides to be more open/smaller for ALL the above reasons. - if money is tight you can go this route too.
The reasons I linked to the One-Up guide above.
1 set-up instructions are idiot proof.
2 The little One-up guide does a better job of both retaining the chain and clearing of mud than ALL of the pointlessly long enclosed guide plates found derived from most DH top guides.
3 the shorter guide plastics of the One-up doesn't need to be compromised (angle/height) to allow for swing arm clearance.
A properly set-up top guide will help keep your chain on the ring even if your drivetrain is worn and your clutch mechanism loose. Yours isn't doing it's job.
For years (way before the existance of One-up) I'd bodged/made/cut all my top guides to be more open/smaller for ALL the above reasons. - if money is tight you can go this route too.
well, my chain guide may look too high, but it is not. the front of it, seat 2 mm on top of the chain.
the rear of it probably built like this to make it work when the suspension work. it supposed to be higher in the back of it.
but yes, my front N\W ring is worn out, I will replace it soon.
I'm going to order the Sunrace 10 speed 11-42 cassette too, that will even make my chain longer by at least 2 links....
any suggestions for N\W ring?
thanks guys for all the answers
the rear of it probably built like this to make it work when the suspension work. it supposed to be higher in the back of it.
but yes, my front N\W ring is worn out, I will replace it soon.
I'm going to order the Sunrace 10 speed 11-42 cassette too, that will even make my chain longer by at least 2 links....
any suggestions for N\W ring?
thanks guys for all the answers
If you need a new ring and cassette I'd suggest upgrading the drivetrain entirely at this point.
My X01 set-up has been flawless (30t ring, no guide, never dropped a chain even at bike park).
If you can get one, the Cromag direct mount rings are great.
My X01 set-up has been flawless (30t ring, no guide, never dropped a chain even at bike park).
If you can get one, the Cromag direct mount rings are great.
it's your lucky day!
https://www.instagram.com/p/-hGIEuwbc9/
https://www.instagram.com/p/-hGIEuwbc9/
Check the gap between the derailleur pulley and the largest cassette cog as well