It'll be flimsy mf'in' casing and you'll tear the shit out of it no time.
Complete Guide to Downhill Rubber
- Thread starter zdubyadubya
- Start date
i've mounted up their tr and regular on the same rim...tr snapped right in place with a satisfying thunk. regular will work but i've always needed lots of compressor action.
interesting. good thing I have a compressor. what rims?
I thought TR referred to bead only, and didn't apply to casing...
edited to add, just had a look on their website; "using liquid sealant in a non-TR tire will void the warranty". bastards. why even bother making a non-TR tire in this day and age. Maybe I'll consider Orange instead of Stans then. grrrr.
thanks. I'm running the Spank Oozy 295 with the beadbite. we'll see how they play with these tires. I should have known it was too good to be true... it's going on the front rim, I hope these suckers don't blow off in a high-speed corner...
MOAR ridin' is the one... and with that... I'm off to R I D E
Please please please film it. With 26s.
No! Shit's all backwards
I've got a few of those. They'll seal up fine. And then you may or may not split them depending on pressures, rims and how much of an asshole you ride like.
When you say split them... You mean at the bead? I've never split a front tire at the bead so I'm not too worried. But if they'll pop off the rim or burp, I'd rather return them.... Decisions decisions...
God damn it, you're right. I didn't look close enough. The sipes on the center tread are angled the wrong way for the ramps on the center knobs, and the L cups on the side knobs go the wrong way for the center knob ramps. You know, for when you need pedaling traction when leaned over.
Yeah pinched right above the bead and sometimes right in the middle of the tread......normal tire pinch kind of thing. If you've never done that, you'll probably be good. I ran all exos tubeless before maxxis' little "tr" designation. I've kept them on wtb, mavic and enve rims just fine. I don't think that's a problem.
Too late! You fail!God damn it, you're right. I didn't look close enough. The sipes on the center tread are angled the wrong way for the ramps on the center knobs, and the L cups on the side knobs go the wrong way for the center knob ramps. You know, for when you need pedaling traction when leaned over.
Yup.
Never had any problems out front on both rims mentioned by me. But I'm like 145 lbs and do care about line choice.
Background:
Now that I've had a few rides on the aggressor, I thought I'd post initial thoughts. The new DD casing aggressor went on 27.5 i9 enduro rims (older 26mm ID model) and were used along with a 2.3 DHR2 Exo/TR front. This was all on my megatrail. I've been using HR2 front and rear on my trail bike for a few years now and think that this tire offers a decent compromise of lower rolling resistance (than a DHF or DHF clone) great braking and corners in a way I'm used to which is to say about like a DHF. I wanted to try a DD casing rear tire after pinch flatting a DHR2 last trip to Pisgah and the aggressor looked like a nice rear tire. One disclaimer is that I recently swapped my CCDBa for a Push 11/6 so comments on traction in corners may be somewhat contaminated by the fact that this shock kicks so much ass. YMMV.
Setup:
I run tubeless for everything except my DH bike. The tire mounted up easily with a high volume floor pump and some soapy water and as expected has played nice with stans in terms of holding air well. The first thing I noticed is that it is not a super high volume tire. It is if anything a little lower volume than the HR2 2.3 I've got on the front. I'm fine with that for a rear tire, but if I were going to run a 1000g front tire it would be the michelin WR for its wider tread and higher volume. I weigh 195-200 and usually run my single ply DHR2 at 30-32 psi in the rear and have found that 27-28 seems about right with the heavier casing of the aggressor.
Ride: My first ride was a 1500 foot climb up mostly singletrack followed by a very high speed decent that has a bunch of water bars that toss you up only to land in a field of rocks (Greens Lick). Conditions were a mix of compacted clay with embedded rocks, and that stuff plus loose dust/pebbles with a few baby heads rolling around for good measure. I made no effort to avoid landing in the rocks as I kinda wanted to see how the tire would handle things. I think the best way to describe it is that the tire feels like 75-80% of a full DH tire in terms of sidewall stiffness in turns and the ability to shrug off impacts. It gave no fycks about the crap I was running into even with a couple light rim strikes. In turns, I think it has less absolute traction than a DHR2 or DHF but it gives way very predictably and smoothly. It doesn't really drift in a choppy catch-grab-catch-grab, more a smooth slide. I actually enjoy a gripper front looser rear setup as I'd rather oversteer than push in a turn. I felt immediately comfortable keeping off the brakes and pushing through fast loose turns. Braking was quite good in the dry, I think in really deep loose loam or in mud, the DHR2 would be better. Unfortunately, mechanical issues cut the ride short so that was all the Pisgah I got to ride. I think I will stick with this tire for a while as it really makes a bike like the megatrail feel even more like a mini-DH bike.
Back home (central NC rolling hills but lower speed and nothing truly gnarly), I've done several trail rides in a mix of loose over hard and hero dirt conditions. Here, the aggressor rolled somewhat better than my HR2 which was a plus as I could definitely feel the extra 400 grams when I was accelerating or climbing. Turning was similarly excellent and I feel like it pairs very well with a DHR2. I think wet NC clay will pack this thing up pretty badly but I expect it will be only marginally worse than a minion in this regard--we shall see since things are getting pretty wet now. For my local non-mountainous trails I'd be tempted to try a nonDD casing and will probably do this in the spring.
I'll give an update about how it handles wet stuff but for now I'm a big fan and really like how "solid" it feels at speed. I think it nicely fills a gap between the semi-slicks like the slaughter and minion SS and tires like the DHR2, SE5, etc.
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finally rode it with STRONGWHEELZTM today
You'll be happy to know you were RIGHT... No drama. No video footage required. Bike and rider rode well.Please accept my sincere apologies.
SHITWHEELZTM will be getting sold!
DHRII 2.26x2.4 upfront. Bling Bling 26x2.35 (old skool smaller sizing) rear
BB @ 12.6"
HA 63.5deg
Thing fucking rails (No shit!) but more importantly it handles WAAAAAY better! Turns how you'd expect a 26" bike to turn. Washouts were easier to save (easier place the wheel back on line if kicked off line). I persevered with the 27s for two weeks and honestly can say they just aren't for me. Everything is better again now.
Only issue all day with the BB height was tagging one stupid rock with the bashguard... but it was a stupid man made "feature" with a rock/step drop that's uphill. it was on the last climb and I was hanging so couldn't get enough momentum to hop it.
bike is so progressive it feels like the BB stays higher than my DH bike's does while riding.
Back on topic
DHRII... I'm totally sold on.
Speaking of non tubeless EXO DHF 2.5's...
I was using one as a front tire in combo with a DHR2 2.35 out back, but the DHF had a slight casing deformity. So I decided to repurpose that DHF 2.5 as a rear tire and onto a wide rim wheelset I had built earlier this year, but I also wanted to make it a semi-slick because they are soo hawtt right now. It took about the same amount of time and energy as cutting up a couple of mud tires (2 beers) but it was well worth the results so I thought I'd share them here...
As you can see above, I cut about half off the top of the center knobs and then added a deeper ramp cut. Next I set about siping the narrower center knobs horizontally, then added a ramp cut to that sipe.
After some incredibly scientific research and analysis, I have concluded that it works great and I'd bang again, but ideally in a DD or DH casing.
I was using one as a front tire in combo with a DHR2 2.35 out back, but the DHF had a slight casing deformity. So I decided to repurpose that DHF 2.5 as a rear tire and onto a wide rim wheelset I had built earlier this year, but I also wanted to make it a semi-slick because they are soo hawtt right now. It took about the same amount of time and energy as cutting up a couple of mud tires (2 beers) but it was well worth the results so I thought I'd share them here...
As you can see above, I cut about half off the top of the center knobs and then added a deeper ramp cut. Next I set about siping the narrower center knobs horizontally, then added a ramp cut to that sipe.
After some incredibly scientific research and analysis, I have concluded that it works great and I'd bang again, but ideally in a DD or DH casing.
Attachments
Man, that looks like work. Looks good but far too much motivation required.
Looks like the 26"dd tires on now available on maxxis' website. Any us monkeys care to receive and reship a package to a Canadian monkey? They don't ship to Canadia...
Like the Kujo DH? The DD tires are like a pound lighter (each) so I'm not sure you could/should compare them.
I was just comparing the bead reinforcement
shit, I can make minions look like that after 2 days of park riding at Snowshoe, far too much work.Man, that looks like work. Looks good but far too much motivation required.
from what I gather, the DD is a double layer of 120 tpi casing, with an "apex"-style reinforcement down at the bead.
What casing are those?
Gumwall sidewalls? Just for show I think.
They make a 2.5 minion dh casing gumwall.
Looks like the DD casing minion SS are available now.......for 20 bucks more. Boo.
Looks like the DD casing minion SS are available now.......for 20 bucks more. Boo.
I haven't memorized this thread, but have you ridden the SS already? I tried it in back and found it really loose on climbs, less climbing traction than an Ardent and not "better" enough anywhere or down to make up for all the spinning out on climbs.
Yeah I rode one of the 700ish gram ones.
And I have no idea what the hell you're talking about.
You ride flats (pedals not tires)?
You on the 26 or 27 ones? The 26 ones have moar cloaser sideknobs.
And I have no idea what the hell you're talking about.
You ride flats (pedals not tires)?
You on the 26 or 27 ones? The 26 ones have moar cloaser sideknobs.
flats and 27s
... on a loose dry rocky trail, but still expected a bit more traction than I found.
... on a loose dry rocky trail, but still expected a bit more traction than I found.
It's worked okay for me, no discernable difference from the RockRazor it replaced. Only area I want for more is braking traction on the loose stuff - which is to be expected.
Maybe the SS stands for Slip-n-Slide? Or Squirrely-n-Skiddy? Or SlightlySquirmy?
You'd laugh at how dry and loose it was here this summer. I think being programmed to pedal with even pressure is good for any SS obviously, but flats make it worse. But I"m a fan of those things. Just not the pinner casing ones.
anyone have any luck finding maxxis DD casing 26" tires (hr2, in particular) anywhere other than the maxxis site?
It sounds similar to the cst-made WTB Inner Peace sidewalls.
Nope, and I've tried a bit (though I was looking for a DHR2)
Need some new winter trail tires good on cold wet rocks (it's been ~40 deg F here lately). Might go with Der Baron Black Chilis but they're a little heavy at 985g. Doesn't look like Schwalbe makes Vertstar snakeskin tires anymore, and Maxxis doesn't offer MaxxGrip on non-WT EXO tires. How's Maxx Terra vs Trail Star on wet rocks?
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