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Custom / home-made digging tools?

Mutt

Monkey
Jun 14, 2003
283
8
Lost on Long Island
I'm on version 2.0 of a sifter and decided to whip up a wooden scraper to go along with it because v1.0 of the sifter got many tears in the wire mesh from shovel scraping. The dirt out of this thing is just perfect for facing, but v1.0 only lasted four dig sessions. Hopefully this version will last longer.

Anyone else make or use more custom tools to get their trails dialed?
 

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Mutt

Monkey
Jun 14, 2003
283
8
Lost on Long Island
Nope, we just pack the gold nuggets directly into the jumps.
And you have named the device....'the prospector'. Stinky Pete also came to mind after reading your post, but not sure if Toy Story references would really find the right audience at the trails.....

clay=gold in my book....... maybe that's why I'm so poor :)
 

Mutt

Monkey
Jun 14, 2003
283
8
Lost on Long Island
Alright, alright, you are correct. I too have heard the malicious rumor that Shovels build good trails, but I intend to show that rather it is overly-interested fools with too much time on their hands that build good trails.

Also, let me note that this is for dirt/clay primarily for facing and or patching, not stacking. But here is the deal:

perfect world = perfect soil/clay + perfect shovel

none of those things exist so; good soil = clay + rocks + roots + cooch + leaves

and if we apply our friend the prospector, suddenly soil = crumby clay by the barrel full
but:

shovel + the prospector = torn wire mesh
so:

the prospector's third leg + the prospector = crumby clay by the barrell full for more than four days straight (lifetime of the prospector's first incarnation)
 

4130biker

PM me about Tantrum Cycles!
May 24, 2007
3,884
450
I dig your prospector- I've made my own mcleods before. I buy a $9 shovel, then come up with a shape out of 1/8" steel plate. Cut it out with a torch, hack the shovel off, weld to the plate and presto! 1/6 price mcleod! The problem is that the shovels handles are short for a mcleod, and they tend to break before too long. However, it does get the job done better than a shovel for lighter mcleod work- hacking out roots and rocks is better left to a polaski, anyway.
 

Mutt

Monkey
Jun 14, 2003
283
8
Lost on Long Island
could you drop a picture of it? I'd love to see it, we have discussed many options at the trails, but there is always the question of is it worth the extra effort of making/buying/ordering a more specialized tool.
 

buckoW

Turbo Monkey
Mar 1, 2007
3,838
4,881
Champery, Switzerland
I have a "prospector" too. Mine is galvanized metal grate and a finer mesh on top. You can do fine or very fine. A little bit of child labor helps the dirt get filtered pretty quick.



I like a good custom rake for building jumps.



These are nice for trails.



we let the muffler on this chainsaw breath a bit more.

 

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Mutt

Monkey
Jun 14, 2003
283
8
Lost on Long Island
Dang Buckow,

I wouldn't even know what to do with a machine like that..... sell it to buy more shovel and tarps :). Thats awesome though, and I'm definitely in to the rakes you've made. I've had similar ideas, but more for leaf rakes and brooms. Thanks for sharing!
 

buckoW

Turbo Monkey
Mar 1, 2007
3,838
4,881
Champery, Switzerland
Dang Buckow,

I wouldn't even know what to do with a machine like that..... sell it to buy more shovel and tarps :). Thats awesome though, and I'm definitely in to the rakes you've made. I've had similar ideas, but more for leaf rakes and brooms. Thanks for sharing!
Helis are good too! Much easier than carrying stuff. Hehe.



I make lots of custom backpacks for carrying the tools to where we are building. I have old leather sewing machines to do the mods.





I am kinda picky about my rakes. Everything else I can find in shops. These are some of the long handled picks I like.




I like a rake with a flat back so I can use the rake on both sides for filtering dirt. I can never find ones at the store with all the angles I like so I make them with an arc welder. I also like the thicker push broom handles (stiffer) so I usually find a pipe in that diameter so I have less flex in the handle. For handling unfiltered construction site dirt we get trucked in sometimes I like the asphault rakes. They are big and burley so you can really yank on them.

2 excavators always makes the digging go faster.



Lots of stoked mini helpers is one of the better tools.



Mulestar - I will try and film a bit this summer so you can see how those diggers work. I don't drive personally them because they are super dangerous and easy to roll down the hill. I stay with the driver and show him what to do. There are only a few guys who drive those well in the whole country. I like to work with only 3 out of many. Everything is so much easier when the driver is good. Sometimes it is scary steep.

 
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don

Turbo Monkey
Nov 8, 2001
1,319
0
Rumson, NJ
Mutt - that prospector is neat. I have one at my house as I get a fair bit of stone in the dirt in my backyard. Never thought of making a tighter mess one for the trails. I can see it working great to patch stuff and fill in cracks. Might have to build one for this summer.

BuckoW - Wow! Looks like some pretty crazy stuff you work on-hill with. Like the long handled stuff and custom rakes. And that excavator ain't shabby either!

I don't really have anything custom but have a few things I use that help:

* Steel handled shovel - the one at the trails has half the tip ripped off and a few cracks that were welded and cracked again - but the steel handle is great to use as a lever for big stone or to get a ball of a tree out.

* Mason tools - I have a couple of trowels that help with the edges. One is thick aluminum that you can use as a mini smack. Gets things nice an sqaure plus easy to hide.

* 2x4 - This is something I'm just figuring out. I had a piece of 2x8 nearby and used it the other day as the dirt was fresh and just didn't want to pack. I used the butt end of it and just jabbed it into the dirt and it worked great. I think a 2x4 in a 3' length will work even better. It could be used for packing, skimming like they use in concrete flat work, a measuring stick (3' seems like the perfect width of lips) and they are easy to get and hide.
 

SuspectDevice

Turbo Monkey
Aug 23, 2002
4,205
429
Roanoke, VA
Do any of you guys have a preferred transfer shovel blade?
I've been looking around in the TrueTemper catalog(all of it, not just bike tubes) and they have seem to have some really well-made looking blades but I'm betting there is something nicer out there that I could snag if I knew where to find it.
I'm on the lookout for good parts because I have this dream of getting some material to make carbon handles for my shovels so my wrists stop hurting and I can wail harder. There is an astronomical amount of carbon fiber tubing in all sizes and thicknesses and butt profiles just sitting on warehouse shelves right now and you can even get custom butted tubes made with wicked cheap mandrel costs. We have a new aluminum supplier that has made lots of bats and hockey sticks too. Every time I go to that factory I get a little twitch when I walk by the draw benches.

I just can stop thinking about it. Sick blade(Ninja-quality steel), light handle, designed to flex right...
In a fair and just world people who dig trails would get paid so much money that they would all have shovels that cost as much as golf clubs and even more diggers than Ben. Until then I keep picking splinters out of my hands and hammering the blades back onto my spade with rocks I pull out of the ground.
 

Mutt

Monkey
Jun 14, 2003
283
8
Lost on Long Island
personally Suspect, if I were going to go the custom handle route, I would want a detachable shovel head because if its light enough to give that nice smooth or smack, then it won't last forever. If it is strong and heavy enough to last a long time, it usually doesn't have that nice 'gentle' feel for smack-packing and smoothing.