[HGR Frucci]

Did some searches on this and didn't see any pertinent info, so I ask you...

How much exposed thread is safe on a wheel build? I'm building my WTB Laser Disc DH/Hope wheels and am trying to use a box of 258's I had laying around. By one calculator, it looked like I was only going to be 2mm off, but in reality I'm probably 4mm off because of the wacky rear offset on my v10.

Bottom line is - on the drive side I have 2-3 mm of spoke thread exposed and not threaded in. I probably have 4-5 complete turns on the spokes, but is this going to be enough - and does this jeopardize the rear wheel?

The non-drive spokes are threaded up to the last thread.

I'd hate to blow these up if I don't have to...

 

[Brian HCM#1]

Spokes are too short.

 

[SirChomps-a-Lot]

a professional wheelbuilder would never leave threads showing. People will know you're a hack!

Anyway, any more than 3 threads showing and i'd start to worry.

 

[HGR Frucci]

I knew this would be a bit hackish, but I never knew the ramifications of "too short" of spokes.

Just called my LBS and they have black competition 262's that will fit the bill. Just didn't want to drop the coins if I didn't have too...

Now I just have an extra box of 258's laying around...anybody want them??

 

[ssaddict]

As the other guys have already said, exposed threads are a no no, if they are DT Revo's 2.0-1.5's I'd be interested in them.

 

[Internal14]

the way I build all my wheels is so when looking from the "backside" down on top of the nipple, the end of the spoke should be flush, or sticking above, the top of the nipple.
I've found that if you don't have long enough spokes to make it all the way through the nipple (ala Wheelsmith) then over time the head caves in and pops off, esp. on alloy nips.

longer is always better....
























...or so she said

 

[HGR Frucci]

SSAddict - They're 2.0-1.8 Competitions. If you want them, you can have them for cost ($44) - and they're black with silver alloy nips. The box is unopened...

I've found that if you don't have long enough spokes to make it all the way through the nipple (ala Wheelsmith) then over time the head caves in and pops off, esp. on alloy nips.

As I kind of eluded to, I knew this wasn't kosher, but didn't have a solid reason why until now - this is what I was looking for. Thanks!

 

[Fulton]

Originally posted by HGR Frucci
because of the wacky rear offset on my v10.

i thought v10's were dishless rear wheels?

 

[Repack]

The threaded portion of the spoke is longer than the threaded part of the nipple. The Phil Wood spoke calc I use gives you spoke lengths so that the tip of the spoke is pretty much flush with the outboard side nipple.
I start a wheel by threading the nipples on just until the spoke threads are no longer visible. Thats my starting point to start tensioning from. At this point, the spokes are WAY too spongey to ride.

 

[Repack]

Originally posted by Fulton
i thought v10's were dishless rear wheels?

Depending on hub spacing, the whacky offset is what gives you the dishless rear wheel. Dishless = the flanges are centered on the centerline of the frame, but most hub flanges aren't centered to the hub. Make any sense? Look at a 135mm hub. The distance from the right flange to the end of the locknut (freehub side) is quite a bit wider than the left flange to left locknut distance.

 

[Jm_]

Originally posted by ssaddict
As the other guys have already said, exposed threads are a no no, if they are DT Revo's 2.0-1.5's I'd be interested in them.

he said he was building a downhill wheel set!








(then again i built a front wheel about a month back with revos, holding up fine )

 

[ssaddict]

Originally posted by Jm_
he said he was building a downhill wheel set!

(then again i built a front wheel about a month back with revos, holding up fine )

The DT Revos 2.0-1.5's are the best spokes I've used, I run them on every wheel (6) I've built in the last 2yrs.... dh and xc. Never had a failure.

 

[HGR Frucci]

My V10 has the new QR dropouts. The actual spacing at the frame is 160mm, but the dropouts are set up for 135mm (they are stepped in).

Building a wheel for this set up is like building a wheel for the Giant DH. Its built like you have a 160mm hub, but you actually have a 135 so it comes out dishless.

 

[Shmoe]

Originally posted by HGR Frucci
My V10 has the new QR dropouts. The actual spacing at the frame is 160mm, but the dropouts are set up for 135mm (they are stepped in).

Building a wheel for this set up is like building a wheel for the Giant DH. Its built like you have a 160mm hub, but you actually have a 135 so it comes out dishless.

Hmmm, I have the same frame as you (same hub spacing as well) and I'm gonna build a wheel for her within the next few weeks here, this thread looks like its gonna help me a little bit

 

[Fulton]

Originally posted by Repack
Depending on hub spacing, the whacky offset is what gives you the dishless rear wheel. Dishless = the flanges are centered on the centerline of the frame, but most hub flanges aren't centered to the hub. Make any sense? Look at a 135mm hub. The distance from the right flange to the end of the locknut (freehub side) is quite a bit wider than the left flange to left locknut distance.

yes, but if the hub flanges are centered on the frame, and hopefully he wants to build the wheelset with the rim on that same centerline, then he should be using the same length spokes, regardless of where the hub locknuts are.

Originally posted by HGR Frucci

on the drive side I have 2-3 mm of spoke thread exposed and not threaded in.

The non-drive spokes are threaded up to the last thread.

 

[HGR Frucci]

Caveat -

The rear hubs I'm using are Hopes and the hub flanges or of different diameters, which exagerates the difference in the spoke lengths.

The drive side flange is smaller the non-drive side, so if you were building a conventional wheel you'd be able to use the same spokes.

In this application, it actually makes it a little more awkward - but still completely do-able.

NOTE: I got the right spokes last night and everything went to gether fine. No threads exposed .

 

[Fulton]

Originally posted by HGR Frucci
Caveat -

The rear hubs I'm using are Hopes and the hub flanges or of different diameters, which exagerates the difference in the spoke lengths.

The drive side flange is smaller the non-drive side, so if you were building a conventional wheel you'd be able to use the same spokes.

In this application, it actually makes it a little more awkward - but still completely do-able.

NOTE: I got the right spokes last night and everything went to gether fine. No threads exposed .

aaaaaahhhhh, gotcha. I assumed you were using a Hadley, which has the same flange diameter on both sides.....

 

[HippieKai]

who needs spokes just use one of these

 

[HGR Frucci]

Skyways rule! Crew Jones would be pimpin' those on Hell Track for sure!

I think you can only fit those hoops on a Hutch Trickstar though, so I'm out of luck.