[ALEXIS_DH]

So... I have managed to service my Equalizer 3 (since there was no way I was going to wait 30-60 days to have it shipped to the US for service/warranty) and fixed the non-retracting shaft issue. Took me a whole afternoon... but I have figured out how to service them. Its not that hard, once you get the hang of it.

This applies to all Scott Genius and Genius LT made from 2011 to 2013. I suspect the same principles apply to older DT Equalizers.

If there is enough people interested, I´ll post a tutorial.

Cheers....

 

[lsimoes]

So... I have managed to service my Equalizer 3 (since there was no way I was going to wait 30-60 days to have it shipped to the US for service/warranty) and fixed the non-retracting shaft issue. Took me a whole afternoon... but I have figured out how to service them. Its not that hard, once you get the hang of it.

This applies to all Scott Genius and Genius LT made from 2011 to 2013. I suspect the same principles apply to older DT Equalizers.

If there is enough people interested, I´ll post a tutorial.

Cheers....

I'm very interested to know!
I have both the equalizer 1 and 2 on scott genius... so I'm wondering if it is quite similar to what you have done.
I would prefer to do service the shox on my own... I'm sure it would save a lot of waiting and non riding time, and money too!
I have some experience with rockshox suspension forks and other mechanical stuff, though none on inverted rear shocks. My major concern regarding starting dismantling it is the internal pressure other than the standard +/- chambers???

I would appreciate if you could share what you know!

 

[golob]

also interested. my shock needs service and i would like to use a reference

 

[monkeybussiness]

me too, also interested! It's a pain to send it to service

 

[Pedro Ferreira]

So... I have managed to service my Equalizer 3 (since there was no way I was going to wait 30-60 days to have it shipped to the US for service/warranty) and fixed the non-retracting shaft issue. Took me a whole afternoon... but I have figured out how to service them. Its not that hard, once you get the hang of it.

This applies to all Scott Genius and Genius LT made from 2011 to 2013. I suspect the same principles apply to older DT Equalizers.

If there is enough people interested, I´ll post a tutorial.

Cheers....

Hi, Could you please post a tutorial? I am having the same problem!

 

[HardtailHack]

Yup, I could use it too, a friend of mine has one and it has been rubbish since day one and after being repaired it still fells horrible, do they all make a thud as the shock retracts fully?

Swapped his air spring out to a solo air a couple of weeks back and the back end fells very very bad in comparison but doesn't have the excess shaft problem.

 

[Rudeboy_Xilo]

So... I have managed to service my Equalizer 3 (since there was no way I was going to wait 30-60 days to have it shipped to the US for service/warranty) and fixed the non-retracting shaft issue. Took me a whole afternoon... but I have figured out how to service them. Its not that hard, once you get the hang of it.

This applies to all Scott Genius and Genius LT made from 2011 to 2013. I suspect the same principles apply to older DT Equalizers.

If there is enough people interested, I´ll post a tutorial.

Cheers....

Hi,
Could you share your experience and solution to the non-retracting shaft issue? It will be very usefull.

Many thanks

 

[ALEXIS_DH]

hey guys.

I have serviced my shock a couple months ago. No problem yet, shaft is full retracted.

i´ll clean my bike in the next few days. will take out the shock to take some pictures and post a tutorial soon.

stay tuned.

 

[Rudeboy_Xilo]

hey guys.

I have serviced my shock a couple months ago. No problem yet, shaft is full retracted.

i´ll clean my bike in the next few days. will take out the shock to take some pictures and post a tutorial soon.

stay tuned.

I Alexis

Greetings from Portugal.

Thank you for your feedback. I am looking forward to know your experience and see the tutorial.
It's a real pain to be without bike for weeks or even a month because a service on the equalizer.


Cheers

 

[lsimoes]

Hi Alexis_dh (and everyone)!
I'm hopping to hear your experience soon!
Following your lead, I started a new topic regarding servicing the scott genius tc rear shock (equalizer 1) on a new thread:
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=266136&p=3962000#post3962000

I believe the service instructions for the equalizer 3 (this post) and equalizer 1 are different... but maybe can complement each other. I currently need some help figuring out how to open and service the (-) pressure 'canister', so if anyone want's to help (and latter be helped) see the post.

Thanks in advance!

 

[papaluza]

I'm interested to know how to service equalizer

 

[Vladislav]

hey guys.

I have serviced my shock a couple months ago. No problem yet, shaft is full retracted.

i´ll clean my bike in the next few days. will take out the shock to take some pictures and post a tutorial soon.

stay tuned.

Hello mate,

Is there some progress, coz I'm interested in servicing my shock by myself too

 

[golob]

I opened it up and changed the oil to fix excessive shaft problem, it's really an easy shock to work on. I used a pp presentation from some Spanish dude and special tools are needed to open it up, but are easy to make at home.

excess shaft is caused by oil in negative chamber, which is not supposed to be there, so the solution is to change the oil.. I used motorex 5wt (22.6 cSt@40c), although 7.5 would closer to original, in my opinion (35.9 cSt)

servicing is pretty straightforward.
open the shock,
open ifp chambers(optional if only changing oil or fixing excess shaft problem),
get old oil out,
clean the shock,
using sloted screwdriver or as I call it 'inverted' screwdriver unscrew two screws located next to the shaft (springs and check valves inside)
put the main piston back in to the shock, but do not engage the threads and leave a gap to inject the oil via syringe in to the main body on top of the piston
after pouring as much oil as possible thread back the shock
*optional: pour oil into ifp chambers on top of ifp's and thread back the nuts.
now using the syringe pour oil via check valve holes make sure there is no air in the system. all air should go out through those holes.
after bleeding and toping it with oil all you need to do is put back the check valves, springs and screw screws back in.

NOTE: photos are from ppt, and were found on interwebs







use translate, but I thing pictures tell the whole story.
equalizer2 shock

 

[papaluza]

Hi golob, I've never servised any shock but i think this is not that hard to do.
Could you please tell me where do you bought that oil and piston seals?
I do not understand well how to put oil into shock, cold you please explain me that a little better,
some pics will be great.
Thanks in andvance

 

[lsimoes]

Thanks Golob!
That's a finding!

Here's what I think is the post where you got the presentation (correct me if I'm wrong please):
http://forums.mtbr.com/scott-sports/equalizer-2-maintenance-830190.html

 

[papaluza]

I resolved my problem today!!!
I opened negativ(-) valve, with schrader valve removal tool, and with syringe with needle i sucked oil from negativ chamber directly, not 100% but almost. Than i removed one of small valve with handmade screwdriver and with syringe without needle i pump in motul 7.5w oil and job done!
Thanks guys a lot!!!

 

[bfm team]

I resolved my problem today!!!
I opened negativ(-) valve, with schrader valve removal tool, and with syringe with needle i sucked oil from negativ chamber directly, not 100% but almost. Than i removed one of small valve with handmade screwdriver and with syringe without needle i pump in motul 7.5w oil and job done!
Thanks guys a lot!!!

Hello, papaluza,
please tell us, how much oil did you put back in the shock ?

 

[papaluza]

My shaft was out about 11 mm. I can't tell exacly how much oil put back in the shock, but approx 7 ml, i put 8 ml but litle bit spiled.

 

[Vladislav]

Hello mates,
Can somebody send me a link where I can find seals or something that will do the job for Eq3(via PM).

 

[Oliv']

Hello gents.

Thomas and I just seviced my Equalizer3 suspension this afternoon, fixing the non-retracting issue, that most of you guys are suffering from.

Following what papaluza said, it will work just fine.

That issue comes from the fact that oil leaves its original chamber, going towards positive/negative air chambers. And when it goes to the negative chamber under the main shaft, it forbid the later to plunge down to its maximal course : you are losing lots of shaft course, your cranks touch the ground : it sucks big time.

Hopefully, we are presenting to you the many details on how to evacuate the oil in the air chambers, and pouring clean oil back into the system, without exploding the many parts of your suspension.

You need an inverted screwdriver (easy to make from scratch using a metal saw) and a regular plastic syringe 20 or 50 ml. Oli (Motorex) 5.0 or 7.5.

1) remove oil in the gas chambers while depressurizing the +/- chambers. repreat it two/three time while pressurizing/depressurizing the system again.

2) remove pressure from the - chamber. Leave pressure in the + chamber in order to push the 2 little pistons to the top.

3) Now let's fill it with clean oil. I used Motorex 5.0 instead of the 7.5 because I love when there is little damping when I ride. If you love damping, use 7.5. We used the tip of a regular syringe to pour clean oil.

4) unscrew the 2 inverted screws located nearby the main plunger. This is where you will bleed the oil.

5) Pouring oil is a little tricky, you may need the help of a friend.
_ Pull up the shaft a little until oil goes out from the 2 holes (or remove all of the dirty oil if you want to bleed it properly).
_ you need to push on the plunger while pouring clean oil with the syringe.
_ Doing so will create a vacuum that will such the oil that you are pouring in excess with the syringe in one hole. At the same time, you may look at the oil going out of the second unoccupied hole to regulate the pushing of the shaft in order not to pour air in the system. Am I clear? It is pretty straightforward while in action.
_ Repeat it as long as there is no air in the system anymore and that your system is full of oil.

6) The is a little problem : there is not enough oil in the system.
_ Screw back the 2 inverted screws for the bleeding.
_ Remove pression in the + and - chambers.
_ Pull up the main shaft to 10mm approx. Remove vaccum/pressure from the +/- chambers.
_ Unscrew th 2 inverted screws. Doing so will move down the 2 little pistons, increasing maximal possible the volume of oil in the system.

7) Add an extra volume of oil using the same method than in step 5. Screw back the two inverted bleeding screws.

8) pressurize, enjoy.

I hope It helped any of you guys. This procedure is very easy to perform. It can be improved. If you follow through and nd if you are also smart, it is done in 20minutes. 1 hour top. 0$ spent.

see you on GresiFreeRide.fr

 

[jsteed]

Thanks for all the great information here guys!! I like to do my own maintenance when whenever possible and hate having to send my shock out to get fixed. I followed Oliv's I instructions and it works perfect.

 

[Zhos]

Hello gents.

Thomas and I just seviced my Equalizer3 suspension this afternoon, fixing the non-retracting issue, that most of you guys are suffering from.

Following what papaluza said, it will work just fine.

...

see you on GresiFreeRide.fr

Hi Oliv', thanx for the great manual!
Could you advice please some other oil I can use for Eq3? Motorex I can't find in my region...
Can I use something more common like Motul?

 

[Huge]

Guys old thread but please help.

I have Equiliser 2 from Scott Genius 50, 2011 bike.

I have shock almost all apart but one of the IFP's I can't remove to change seal ring. The other IFP (positive) I could pump out from positive air valve. There is a small grub screw on the side of each of the IFP champers, which if I could unscrew would allow compressed air to force it out from behind, but it is very tight and unable to remove.

Can you help?

Next for reassembly, where to position (depth) the IFP's? Before installing the rebound adjuster.

 

[ALEXIS_DH]

Guys old thread but please help.

I have Equiliser 2 from Scott Genius 50, 2011 bike.

I have shock almost all apart but one of the IFP's I can't remove to change seal ring. The other IFP (positive) I could pump out from positive air valve. There is a small grub screw on the side of each of the IFP champers, which if I could unscrew would allow compressed air to force it out from behind, but it is very tight and unable to remove.

Can you help?

Next for reassembly, where to position (depth) the IFP's? Before installing the rebound adjuster.

you need to make a tool to remove those screws.
its an "inverted" flat head screwdriver.

for reassembly, you have to place the ifp at a very precise location and fill with oil. too much/too little oil, and you loosse travel.

best thing to do, is to push them all the way in; fill with oil (that way to you get a lot of oil), and then purge as much oil as possible WITHOUT exposing the shaft.
be carefull, as the difference between too little and too much can be as low as 5ml

 

[Huge]

servicing is pretty straightforward.
open the shock,
open ifp chambers(optional if only changing oil or fixing excess shaft problem),
get old oil out,
clean the shock,
using sloted screwdriver or as I call it 'inverted' screwdriver unscrew two screws located next to the shaft (springs and check valves inside)
put the main piston back in to the shock, but do not engage the threads and leave a gap to inject the oil via syringe in to the main body on top of the piston
after pouring as much oil as possible thread back the shock
*optional: pour oil into ifp chambers on top of ifp's and thread back the nuts.
now using the syringe pour oil via check valve holes make sure there is no air in the system. all air should go out through those holes.
after bleeding and toping it with oil all you need to do is put back the check valves, springs and screw screws back in

Alexis thank you. So I was not referring to the check valves, I had already made inverted screw driver and removed these. I understand now they are used to bleed air from the system? The grub screws I referred two are above each of the ifp chambers and require very small Allen Key. Looks like they are blanking plugs from where they drilled the casting to connect the chambers at the top.

I still can not remove both ifp so I will only replace seal on main piston this time and hope that it fixes shaft issue.

From what you suggest I only place oil in ifp chambers and not in the main piston chamber? Do I push main piston all the way in with no oil on top?

Golob above lists this as optional, I'm a little confused. If ifp chambers are full of oil, as per schematic of shock absorber function, the main piston shaft should be completely out/exposed?

 

[Huge]

you need to make a tool to remove those screws.
its an "inverted" flat head screwdriver.

for reassembly, you have to place the ifp at a very precise location and fill with oil. too much/too little oil, and you loosse travel.

best thing to do, is to push them all the way in; fill with oil (that way to you get a lot of oil), and then purge as much oil as possible WITHOUT exposing the shaft.
be carefull, as the difference between too little and too much can be as low as 5ml

Okay I will try be more direct.

1. How to push both IFP's out of their chambers? Just curious, as if leaking something must need replacing or will just leak again?

2. Where to position the main piston, fully in or fully out? And with or without oil in main chamber? (Given I will do as you advise push ifp to bottom fill completely with oil and screw in end rebound adjuster cap).

3. Where and how to purge/bleed the oil?

 

[Huge]

Okay I managed to remove both ifp's finally.

I have attached picture of the grub screws I was referring to earlier. And also the new replacement seals I have sourced, they have two peaks on them, hopefully they will work.

Now ready to reassemble, if you can help with points 2 and 3 greatly appreciated.

Cheers

 

[Thezoot]

Hello mates,
Can somebody send me a link where I can find seals or something that will do the job for Eq3(via PM).

Hi firstly thanks for all the info in this thread, it has been a great help. I would also like to get hold of all the seals to rebuild my equalizer 3 shock. I have managed to make tools and successfully dismantled my defunct shock I was suppressed to find all the bores appear to be in good condition.

Can anyone post part numbers for all the internal seals on the equalizer 3. Including the ones for the travel selector valve?

Many thanks

Simon

 

[FridayShoes]

Hey, here's some photos of the proper DT Swiss tool you need to open the shock and some pictures of the seals needed. There's a guy on ebay selling Equalizer shocks and other DT parts. I'm trying to buy some seals off him but there's a bit of a language barrier...

Part numbers for the seal packs

Seal kit main piston EQ - CXKEQUAS86107S
Seal kit equalizer - CXEXXXXS08921C

 

[sieskei]

Hey, here's some photos of the proper DT Swiss tool you need to open the shock and some pictures of the seals needed. There's a guy on ebay selling Equalizer shocks and other DT parts. I'm trying to buy some seals off him but there's a bit of a language barrier...

View attachment 123226 View attachment 123227 View attachment 123228 View attachment 123229

Part numbers for the seal packs

Seal kit main piston EQ - CXKEQUAS86107S
Seal kit equalizer - CXEXXXXS08921C

Hello, where did you find these tools and seals?
Can you share a link?

I can't find anything about scott / dt-swiss equalizer tools.

Thanks in advance.

 

[FridayShoes]

There are now two tools available for the Scott Equalizer 3 that will make disassembling the shock at lot easier

You can get them from this link

 

[Kent]

Hi guys sorry to bother you, I cant deflate the + chamber what should I do? I tried on - chamber. Its already deflated coz I tried to follow the steps above that I need to pressurize and depressurize for 3 times but I cant deflate the + chamber it to hard to push the small needle. Thanks!

 

[Kent]

Hello gents.

Thomas and I just seviced my Equalizer3 suspension this afternoon, fixing the non-retracting issue, that most of you guys are suffering from.

Following what papaluza said, it will work just fine.

That issue comes from the fact that oil leaves its original chamber, going towards positive/negative air chambers. And when it goes to the negative chamber under the main shaft, it forbid the later to plunge down to its maximal course : you are losing lots of shaft course, your cranks touch the ground : it sucks big time.

Hopefully, we are presenting to you the many details on how to evacuate the oil in the air chambers, and pouring clean oil back into the system, without exploding the many parts of your suspension.

You need an inverted screwdriver (easy to make from scratch using a metal saw) and a regular plastic syringe 20 or 50 ml. Oli (Motorex) 5.0 or 7.5.

1) remove oil in the gas chambers while depressurizing the +/- chambers. repreat it two/three time while pressurizing/depressurizing the system again.

2) remove pressure from the - chamber. Leave pressure in the + chamber in order to push the 2 little pistons to the top.

3) Now let's fill it with clean oil. I used Motorex 5.0 instead of the 7.5 because I love when there is little damping when I ride. If you love damping, use 7.5. We used the tip of a regular syringe to pour clean oil.

4) unscrew the 2 inverted screws located nearby the main plunger. This is where you will bleed the oil.

5) Pouring oil is a little tricky, you may need the help of a friend.
_ Pull up the shaft a little until oil goes out from the 2 holes (or remove all of the dirty oil if you want to bleed it properly).
_ you need to push on the plunger while pouring clean oil with the syringe.
_ Doing so will create a vacuum that will such the oil that you are pouring in excess with the syringe in one hole. At the same time, you may look at the oil going out of the second unoccupied hole to regulate the pushing of the shaft in order not to pour air in the system. Am I clear? It is pretty straightforward while in action.
_ Repeat it as long as there is no air in the system anymore and that your system is full of oil.

6) The is a little problem : there is not enough oil in the system.
_ Screw back the 2 inverted screws for the bleeding.
_ Remove pression in the + and - chambers.
_ Pull up the main shaft to 10mm approx. Remove vaccum/pressure from the +/- chambers.
_ Unscrew th 2 inverted screws. Doing so will move down the 2 little pistons, increasing maximal possible the volume of oil in the system.

7) Add an extra volume of oil using the same method than in step 5. Screw back the two inverted bleeding screws.

8) pressurize, enjoy.

I hope It helped any of you guys. This procedure is very easy to perform. It can be improved. If you follow through and nd if you are also smart, it is done in 20minutes. 1 hour top. 0$ spent.

see you on GresiFreeRide.fr

NewHi guys sorry to bother you, I cant deflate the + chamber what should I do? I tried on - chamber. Its already deflated coz I tried to follow the steps above that I need to pressurize and depressurize for 3 times but I cant deflate the + chamber it to hard to push the small needle. Thanks!

 

[FridayShoes]

If the needle is stuck then you can try removing it using a valve core remover tool

 

[Kent]

If the needle is stuck then you can try removing it using a valve core remover tool

Maybe your right i'll try to buy a valve core tool, can I use also that tool to open the side of the chamber the one needs the inverted screwdriver or it will not fit?

 

[Kent]

If the needle is stuck then you can try removing it using a valve core remover tool

I really need your help. Thanks a lot! Appreciated! I just removed the shock from the frame. Do you have idea how can I remove the cable on the top (cable from twinloc) should I just pull or needs some tools to remove that?

 

[Kent]

Hey, here's some photos of the proper DT Swiss tool you need to open the shock and some pictures of the seals needed. There's a guy on ebay selling Equalizer shocks and other DT parts. I'm trying to buy some seals off him but there's a bit of a language barrier...

View attachment 123226 View attachment 123227 View attachment 123228 View attachment 123229

Part numbers for the seal packs

Seal kit main piston EQ - CXKEQUAS86107S
Seal kit equalizer - CXEXXXXS08921C

Hey do you have idea if he still has stack for the seal kit? Do you still know the name of seller or store? Thanks!

 

[FridayShoes]

Hey do you have idea if he still has stack for the seal kit? Do you still know the name of seller or store? Thanks!

This is the guy http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/bikeuk9?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

 

[FridayShoes]

I've also nearly finished writing a guide for the disassembly of the Equalizer 3 here http://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.co.uk/2016/12/scott-dt-swiss-equalizer-3-shock.html

I've still got a few more pictures and information to add, but it should help

 

[FridayShoes]

Maybe your right i'll try to buy a valve core tool, can I use also that tool to open the side of the chamber the one needs the inverted screwdriver or it will not fit?

Did the valve tool work?