So I've been looking to get a new bike and start riding. The wife says for my first bike I have a budget of just $200 and if I'm still into it next year I can get something better. So I went looking the past couple of days and the best thing I found in the price range was a GT Palomar, $160 new. It was bright blue with yellow letters on it. I went to research it on GT's website and that model line is no longer listed anywhere on it. Anyone have any info on this bike? Thanks in advance for the information!
First Bike - GT Palomar?
- Thread starter gigapower
- Start date
looks like a POS to me.
What type of rideing are you going to do? It is not a true trail bike,But is perfect for rideing on long chat trails,paved trails,or short non technical trail rides. The component spec would not last too long on a semi technical trail.
The suspension on the front is not very functional and the shifters are not very precise but what do you expect for $200.00!
It is the cheapest in the GT MTN Bike line and spec is all most the same as a department store bike.But with the GT name.
If it is all you can afford then get it. I bought my wife one 5 years ago and it's still in my garage. Don't go out and blow $1500.00 on a nice bike if you dont even know if you will like rideing in a fiew months.
It will last you a years worth of rideing. And then you can start shopping for a new bike that is better once you have got you're money's worth out of that one.
The suspension on the front is not very functional and the shifters are not very precise but what do you expect for $200.00!
It is the cheapest in the GT MTN Bike line and spec is all most the same as a department store bike.But with the GT name.
If it is all you can afford then get it. I bought my wife one 5 years ago and it's still in my garage. Don't go out and blow $1500.00 on a nice bike if you dont even know if you will like rideing in a fiew months.
It will last you a years worth of rideing. And then you can start shopping for a new bike that is better once you have got you're money's worth out of that one.
For $200.00 you cant find much! Just being honest. But... if you had $400.00 on up it would be a good start. I would just get a bike that fits you right in you're price range and not do any upgrades. Just hold onto you're money and buy a better bike when you have more money to spend on one.
OR.... hold off and save some more money that the wife can't find out about and tell her it was only $200.00 when you bring it home.
There is no point in droping more money on a $200.00 bike to make it better because it would cost too much. It will get you thru the basics. And when you get better, you will be able to have a better bike with the money you saved by sticking with a cheaper bike, to see if you even like it.
If not you have just wasted alot of money and can't sell it for even half of what you bought it for new. Look at some of the company's like GT, Specialized, Raleigh, Trek, Gary Fisher, Kona,Etc... All company's make a budget bike Starting in the low $200.00 to $300.00 price range.
Too many people think the bike makes you a better rider, but just end up spending alot of money on a bike they will never even be able to use to it's full potential.
Chris...
OR.... hold off and save some more money that the wife can't find out about and tell her it was only $200.00 when you bring it home.
There is no point in droping more money on a $200.00 bike to make it better because it would cost too much. It will get you thru the basics. And when you get better, you will be able to have a better bike with the money you saved by sticking with a cheaper bike, to see if you even like it.
If not you have just wasted alot of money and can't sell it for even half of what you bought it for new. Look at some of the company's like GT, Specialized, Raleigh, Trek, Gary Fisher, Kona,Etc... All company's make a budget bike Starting in the low $200.00 to $300.00 price range.
Too many people think the bike makes you a better rider, but just end up spending alot of money on a bike they will never even be able to use to it's full potential.
Chris...
A lot of people might tell you that your bike is **** unless it cost the best part of $2000, which isn't that true these days, having said that $200 is a bit cheap really. You should try and save a little more if you can. You'll enjoy the experience more once you move up from the most basic level of componentry and technology.
Good luck! Hope you find something.Used could be the way to go for the amount you have to spend right now.
Well the best thing he had in the Mtn. Bike realm was a 1989 Trek 7000 that he wanted $160 for, claimed it had high quality parts on it. Rode just as well as the Palomar. The Trek was black with neon green specks all over it and a neon green handle bar. He said he had a new shipment coming in from auction on Wednesday and to check back with him.
Oh and I stopped by another store on my way home and found a GT Avalanche 3.0 on clearance for $250, how is this bike? Still not worth the money? I might be able to sneak the extra $50.
Oh and I stopped by another store on my way home and found a GT Avalanche 3.0 on clearance for $250, how is this bike? Still not worth the money? I might be able to sneak the extra $50.
Skip anything from 1989 - Mtn. bike technology has increased significantly since then. That bike's likely made from Chromoly, much heavier than the Aluminum used in all bikes today. If that thing front shocks, you can bet they're worthless - and buying an upgraded fork that will fit that old beast will set you back $400, easy.
Chris
Chris
That bike was a fully rigid. i should know i had the next year run, ahhh the Antelope.rooftest said:
Anyways with that budget you really have your work cut out for you. That Avalanche is definately a better buy, but low end components can give you some headaches if you ride hard and/or often. So your kinda stuck in a tough place, since if the bike is broken or breaking down on the trail that can frustrate you from the sport.
Maybe with a little talk you can squeeze a few more hundred on the budget, since you don't want a project to work on for a year. You want to be on the trail.
At any rate whatever route you take make sure when you get the bike you get properly fitted for it. Having a bike that's not the right fit will really keep the bike in the garage and you on the couch.
One last tip is to search for a good deal on a used bike. But not 1989 used, i gave my 1990 Antelope to a freind and he gave it to a freind, back in 1997. i also gave another freind a GT STS full suspension for free, since he never paid me what he owed me, oh well live and learn. Point is there are deals on bikes out there, and they can actually be from this century.
Good luck on your search, welcome to the monkey, and i hope you catch the riding bug we all got.
gigapower said:
In my opinion, no. If you move up to the Avalance 2.0 or 2.0 disk, you'll be in a lot better shape. The fork and low end components on the 3.0 are not going to last. The 2.0 has significantly better components, although they are pretty much the minimum I'd take off road.
If I were you, and I'm not, I'd see if there was a local bike group, and try to get a used 2002 or newer hardtail in good shape. Try the for sale section of the newspaper. Before you buy have a mechanic take a look at the bike. Check the web for pricing, and check back if you have questions.
The GT Avalanch is a much better bike than the palomar! It will be more trail friendly than the palomar is. If you are 6'2" you are in between a 19 and 20" Go to http://www.gtbikes.com/mountain/catalog/detail.php?id=831&country=usa&brand=moun
Same bike just a year older. Measure you're inseam and the standover height to figure out wich one you will need. Always give the twins a fiew inches of extra room!!!
At the bottom of the page on the link I added they give you the standover height on both bikes. Also call a local GT dealer and ask them what the measurements are from the center of bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube on a large are. I think the large is a 20, medium is 18, XL is a 22.
Same bike just a year older. Measure you're inseam and the standover height to figure out wich one you will need. Always give the twins a fiew inches of extra room!!!
At the bottom of the page on the link I added they give you the standover height on both bikes. Also call a local GT dealer and ask them what the measurements are from the center of bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube on a large are. I think the large is a 20, medium is 18, XL is a 22.
Went to another bike store this afternoon, did not like the feel of an XL frame. Rode a L and was very happy with it.
I rode a 2006 Specialized Hardrock Sport and I LOVED it, the price was $360 for it, the guy at the shope said he has a 2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport in the box that he will sell to me at $320, he is going to put it together tomorrow and I'm going to ride it on my way home. There is no way I can buy any of the other bikes I've looked at, just no way. So my question is the $40 worth the difference with the 06? I know that they replaced the gear shifter on it from Shimano to another company, SRA I think??? So what is the advice of the forum?
I rode a 2006 Specialized Hardrock Sport and I LOVED it, the price was $360 for it, the guy at the shope said he has a 2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport in the box that he will sell to me at $320, he is going to put it together tomorrow and I'm going to ride it on my way home. There is no way I can buy any of the other bikes I've looked at, just no way. So my question is the $40 worth the difference with the 06? I know that they replaced the gear shifter on it from Shimano to another company, SRA I think??? So what is the advice of the forum?
If it has scram shifters they are better than the shimano altus on the older one. But I would still go for the deal. All the parts on the two bikes are the same. Get the closeout and ask him if he can do $300.00 for it.
Remember... There is a reasen he still has a new 2005 bike in the back in a box and wants to sell it. It is always better to bargan on a last years model bike because they are so hard to sell once the newer bikes come in stock.
Back to the shifters... either one is going to work about the same on those two bikes. It's not woth paying $40.00 more to get the newest one if they are still the same bike all the way around.
Remember... There is a reasen he still has a new 2005 bike in the back in a box and wants to sell it. It is always better to bargan on a last years model bike because they are so hard to sell once the newer bikes come in stock.
Back to the shifters... either one is going to work about the same on those two bikes. It's not woth paying $40.00 more to get the newest one if they are still the same bike all the way around.
Congrats on the new bike purchase! Now get out there and ride it! Are you any where near Turkey MT? They got some crazy stuff out there!
Congrats, it will serve you well. Just remember to keep the rubber side down.
Left work early to go get my bike and immediately came home, changed clothes and rode around the neighborhood. Got in a good solid 3 miles before the wife came home. Plan for tomorrow is to get in another 3+ miles and just slowly grow that distance everyweek.
Now impressions about the bike, its all great except for one thing, the seat is killing my balls.
Now impressions about the bike, its all great except for one thing, the seat is killing my balls.
Haha.... Congrats on the new bikey!gigapower said:
Go get some bike shorts with a chamois (pronounced shammy). It's cloth padding in the crotch. If you don't like the "roadie" spandex look, you can always wear some shorts over them.
Have fun man.
Or just get the more up to date shorts that look like Cargo Shorts with the shammy inside! The whole shorts over spandex thing kinda sucks on trails when the top pair of shorts start moving around.Skookum said:
You have to try adjusting you're shorts more than parts on you're bike! The cargo type shorts have the Spandex layer stitched to the inside of the waist line to stop the slipidge.
Chris...
Rode 7 miles today and man my legs are screaming, my balls feel 
, but my spirits are feeling high.
My wife went today and put some money down on a 2005 Specialized Womans Hardrock Sport, the blue one with the silver stars....I think the stars are what sold her on it. She's going to get it when she gets paid next week so I will have a biking buddy.
Anyone got a link to these shorts?
, but my spirits are feeling high.My wife went today and put some money down on a 2005 Specialized Womans Hardrock Sport, the blue one with the silver stars....I think the stars are what sold her on it. She's going to get it when she gets paid next week so I will have a biking buddy.
Anyone got a link to these shorts?
Here is a nice pair of shorts.http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/SP601B09-Fox+Mid+Ranger+Shorts.aspx
Make sure you're sitting on your ass & not your nuts. Your balls hurting from riding isn't a good thing - try positioning your seat lower or moving it forward on the rails a bit.
(That Hardrock seat mainly hurt my ass) - seats with the holes in the middle (Like the Specialized ones) take pressure off "the twins."
(That Hardrock seat mainly hurt my ass) - seats with the holes in the middle (Like the Specialized ones) take pressure off "the twins."
My friend owns a Hardrock Sport. Hes very happy with it. I want to get maybe a Hardrock Sport Disc to take to me to school and around town. Im still debating if I should get it or not because in 2 years I want a nice car not a ugly one like my sisters.
You should get a road bike. It would get you to school much faster!!!I R Ron said:
So true, went on the local biking/jogging trail tonight and constantly the road bikers were blowing by us.ctrailfreak said:You should get a road bike. It would get you to school much faster!!!
I managed to ride a total of 17 miles this weekend on my bike! Needless to say I'm in :love:
One funny thing, my arms seem to give out before my legs do. Went and scored my inlaws Bowflex and will start doing some strength training on that.
gigapower said:
Don't over do it on the workouts. Try higher reps (12-25) at a moderate weight. Make sure you do all the core muscles, abs, back shoulders, pectoral, as well as the Bi/tricepts. Later, you can work on adding some weight and strength.