[nowlan]

Gents

Im a long time Boxxer user and recently switched to a 2010 Fox 40. Works great, 8 inch mode, sag is set right with the proper spring. Im not getting about the last inch and a half of my travel.

I use to do all my own work on my Boxxer and id like to start on the 40.

I found the manual

http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/Forks/40/40RC2.htm

What exactly are you changing when you change the internal bottom out?
What level of oil goes where?

Cheers

 

[nowlan]

Anyone? I took the spring out today and could compress the fork all the way, so its not a Damper issue, I have the blue Ti spring in that goes up to 180 lbs and I weigh exactly 180 so its pretty supple but now matter how hard i try to compress it I cant get the last inch. I know I have it installed correctly to. Its driving me mad. MADDDDD.

 

[mtg]

If you compress the fork slowly, the bottom out circuit doesn't really do much, since it's a damper circuit.
Also, are you measuring how much travel you are getting? Or just measuring the distance between the travel-indicating o-ring and the crown? If you have 9" of stanchion showing, you'll never get the o-ring up to the crown. On this topic, you do have to be careful about not smashing the dust seals into the crowns also- on my 40, I have to leave 8.25" of stanchion showing above the dust seals to not crush them. Anyway, that was a little bit of a tangent...

In the manual you linked to, they talk about the bottom out system. Their picture shows it in the stiffest position; to soften it, you take the blue glide ring and spacers off and move the glide ring up, and put the spacers back under it. Effectively, the blue glide ring won't engage until a little further into the travel.

 

[Chridi]

Leave the bladder closed and instead just open the cartridge like pictured in the manual (damper service #6 and following).
Pull the rebound assembly out. Don't pour the oil out.
Now open the 2mm hex key on the bottom-out unit and rearrange the spacer with the glidering.

Top the cartridge off with oil (47,xx cst@40C; ~10W) and insert the rebound assembly rotating. See manual (assembly #17).
Cycle to test for trapped air in the cartridge.
Done.

 

[contactjt]

How much riding has the fork done. Sometimes they take a bit of riding to loosen up. I would avoid pulling the damper apart until you are sure the fork is bedded in. At 180lbs you should be able to bottom the fork on a fast hit, especially if you are running little HSC. Back off both HSC and LSC and see if you are getting full travel. Thenstart winding them on to preference.

As MTG pointed out above, ensure you are measuring what travel you are getting with a tape measure, not relative to exposed stanchion as this can be over

Good luck

JT

 

[nowlan]

Thanks guys, much appreciated. I have 8 and a bit showing on the stansions.

 

[nowlan]

BTW have any of you change the settings on the bottom out? What was the result? Woud you recommend it?

 

[nowlan]

This guy hear claims it really changes the fork for the better

http://www.pvdwiki.com/index.php?title=Fox_40_(2009)_Setup

 

[Rooster]

I'm not to sure why you're not getting full travel, but i can say that i run mine in the stock firmest setting and have no trouble getting the full eight on most runs with solid hits. I friend started messing around with his, reduced the bottom out to about 2/3 less than full firm and had some harsh bottoming issues. I'm pretty sure he went back to the firm setting. BTW- just for reference I run the green spring and weigh in at the upper end of it's supposed limit, similar to your situation. Most of my other buddies that run 40's don't seem to have issues with getting full travel either. These are just my observations. I've worked on all my own forks and would say if you follow the instructions its really not a whole lot harder to work on than any other fork.

 

[Udi]

As contactjt suggested, let the fork break in (can take some time) before you decide to change the bottom out setting.

Personally I tried the fork with the system removed, but preferred it the way it is set from factory. The fork feels a lot smoother on harsh g-outs or compressions in stock guise. I don't think changing the position of the glide ring is going to make things any better, as it kicks in fairly late as it is. I weigh the same as you with gear and can use full travel, with blue spring, and bottom out at stock (hardest) setting.

You should however make sure the damper is functioning correctly and not ramping up (when you bottom out the cartridge when removed from fork, it should stay bottomed out, not spring back out). If not - rebuild time.

 

[nowlan]

Thanks guys, much appreciated.

 

[MTBAlex]

how long would it take for the fork to break in?