[discombob]

I just want to know what you like about your 26" wheeled dirt-jump/park-bike? What does geometry in the rear do to an aggressive hard-tail?

I've been looking at:
-Giant STP (they are everywhere)
-Banshee Morphine (kinda pricey, but heard good things)
-Fisher PHD (rode one and thought it was pretty nice, but have nothing else to compare it to)

The PHD I rode was aluminum and I was told to bail on that idea unless I like a chattery bike on dirt jumps and trails that are on the rough side and that steel might be a better idea. I know that I could use the search feature a-plenty, but I wouldn't mind if someone who was knowledgeable asked me a few questions and then made a recommendation from there to get me into something that I might more-likely enjoy the first time I buy.

I bought my first downhill bike this way, with the RM-community's help, and I loved it! (an 06 Yakuza R)

 

[BikeSATORI]

what's your budget?

All of the bikes you listed are aluminum. The morphine does not fit into that category at all. It's a completely OVER built super slack FR/DH hardtail frame.

Look into the new Eastern 26 completes. The Thunderbird or the Night train. great price points, great geo., nice component spec.

 

[mattmatt86]

Look for an Imperial frame, it will be the best decision of your life.

 

[maddragon121]

well im looking at a scott voltage they are pretty nice and the frame is solid so i think im ganna go for that for my urban/dirt riding

 

[v-digit]

well im looking at a scott voltage they are pretty nice and the frame is solid so i think im ganna go for that for my urban/dirt riding

i think you should do more research.

 

[1453]

http://www.twofortythree.com/html/products_2007.html

I just want to know what you like about your 26" wheeled dirt-jump/park-bike? What does geometry in the rear do to an aggressive hard-tail?

one important thing for me is the chain stay length, which if too long makes the bike a little more stable but harder to lift up, if too short makes the bike way twitchy. I rode a Bruiser for the longest time and realized that the geometry had more to be desired.

BTW a "free ride" hardtail may not be the best choice for a jump bike. the .243 will be my next frame.

 

[Cru Jones]

i think you should do more research.

Haha. That's some funny sh!t.

Seriously, though, look for a steel hardtail. Satori's advice is solid.

 

[discombob]

Thanks everybody - the advice given to me on steel vs. aluminum is confirmed... chainstay length is finally explained to me now too so I guess I will go ride two or three different frames and see how easy it is to manual/hop and corner with the different geometries.

Now that I understand top-tube and chainstay lengths, what does head angle accomplish for the rider? Does it just slacken and stick the front wheel out more? To what point is this advantageous for jumps?

 

[ZHendo]

you'll find steeper head angles on most jump bikes because they are made to be very quick. a slacker head angle does stick the wheel out more, but the effect is a slower steering bike. this makes for very confident handling in the rough, but a somewhat sluggish ride when turning. go out and see what bikes you like best in terms of geometry, take it around the block and see how the turning feels.

 

[rid3HB]

i loved the feel of a jackal. they are worth a look.

santacruzmtb.com

 

[discombob]

Looks like both the Imperial and the Jackal are aluminum frames?

The .243 is chro-mo steel, but it looks like I haven't quite come up with a budget number yet that I feel comfortable with. Right off the top of my head, I would say around $1,000 for the whole bike would be nice since I just bought a Sunday that set me back five (that was quite a bit of cabbage for me).

 

[PatBranch]

Look at the transition TOP.

 

[gunslingger]

i have both of these and the morphine is bomb proof and built as mentioned above, slack and for dh/fr stuff. fun bike and I ride it on everythng but for djs type riding it is not the greatest.

my advice is get a p1, cheap and perfectly set up but as some on here will say a little heavy.

 

[DH biker]

I just want to know what you like about your 26" wheeled dirt-jump/park-bike? What does geometry in the rear do to an aggressive hard-tail?

I've been looking at:
-Giant STP (they are everywhere)
-Banshee Morphine (kinda pricey, but heard good things)
-Fisher PHD (rode one and thought it was pretty nice, but have nothing else to compare it to)

The PHD I rode was aluminum and I was told to bail on that idea unless I like a chattery bike on dirt jumps and trails that are on the rough side and that steel might be a better idea. I know that I could use the search feature a-plenty, but I wouldn't mind if someone who was knowledgeable asked me a few questions and then made a recommendation from there to get me into something that I might more-likely enjoy the first time I buy.

I bought my first downhill bike this way, with the RM-community's help, and I loved it! (an 06 Yakuza R)

Personally, I think that cromo/steel/4130 gives a smoother ride. Since you are considering the Morphine, why not consider the Banshee Scratch. I ride one, the geo is quite similar to the Surly Instigator which is also cromo. Both ride great. Noth can be used for a variety of different riding styles including DH/FR.

My Banshee is a DJ/Park bike as you described... but it is also steel and heavy. I built it up that way as well. With a 24" rear tire, it has a supershort wheel base. I can lift up the front end without a problem. I can also ride tight techy trails like it is my job on that thing, typically better than many full out DH bikes on some of the local techy DH trails. Cornering is great. Jumping isn't too bad either...

The wheelbase on the Scratch is also adjustable with the horizontal dropouts within an inch, which would changes things a lot more than you expect.

I say get one... seems like it fits the description of what you are looking for.

 

[1453]

Looks like both the Imperial and the Jackal are aluminum frames?

The .243 is chro-mo steel, but it looks like I haven't quite come up with a budget number yet that I feel comfortable with. Right off the top of my head, I would say around $1,000 for the whole bike would be nice since I just bought a Sunday that set me back five (that was quite a bit of cabbage for me).

if you want an affordable steel hardtail there is always teh Azonic Steelhead, by no means a horrible ride....

also I think the pitbull is also a steel

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/13872-175_PLAPB5-3-Parts-60-Frames/Planet-X-Pitbull-Pro-Frame.htm

for a true steel freerider, though, an Instigator is usually a good bet.

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/FR310A01-Surly+Instigator+Frame.aspx

 

[pancho64]

the new versus jab looks to be on point. also there is nothing ever bad to say about the MOB. i went from riding a steel frame to aluminum and welcomed to change. its definitely different but not hard to get used to at all. plus the newer frame had better geo numbers which made it ride nicer....oh yah i went from a cortina ds to a sinister dna. loooove the dna

 

[discombob]

Sweet - I have quite a few recommendations to look at now. That should help. The Banshee Scratch looks awesome but I had better start saving again.

 

[DH biker]

Used a consideration? There are a few on this site, in great condidtion for dirt cheap prices:

http://www.ridemonkey.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=1783&cat=all

http://www.ridemonkey.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=1077&cat=all

 

[wanabe]

Steelhead!!! Cheap, smooth, good geo for a beginer, and you will have to try damn hard to break it.

 

[XxHMBPRiderxX]

I say check out the cannondale chase, ironhorse bakuto(chimpira is the same geo), blk market riot, azonic steelhead, or spank smoke. but definatlely no gary fisher the geo sucks on them and the bontrager stuff breaks easily i had a fisher and replaced all bontrager except bars and stem.

 

[IHardtail]

Jackal-
It feels great...so agile.
Build it up with a 66 (150mm) and that is the best hardtail.