[I R Ron]

Hi guys. Im thinking of getting my first "real" bike before the end of summer. and Im not sure what to get. Im going to mostly use the bike to go to and from school, and to ride around town, but it also has to be hardcore enough(i couldnt think of the right word) so that I can still use it as a all mountain/freeride mountain bike on the weekends. I doesnt matter if its hardtail or full-suspension, but I prefer full more. Price doesnt matter as long as its under $2000. My friend could give me 20-75% deiscount so...ya.Also, what size should I get(how many inches)Im 4'10 80lb and 14 years old(i dont think that matters) Some bikes I have in mind are:
Kona Stinky
Specialized P.3
" "Hardrock Pro Disc

So..what should I get. Also, the bike has to have at least 19gears because where I live its all up and down hill

 

[blue]

4"10? That's like...14 inches shorter than me....whoa.

First off, good luck finding a bike that will be sized appropriately for you. You might have to look into bikes made for women (no offense), due to the reason that there are full grown women that size. How long do you intend on keeping the bike? If you plan to have it for awhile, I'd advise getting a bigger size and 'growing into' it, or if you're planning to get another one within a couple years, buy something in the sub-$1000 range so you don't get screwed moneywise.

The good news is that at your size, you're not going to stress your components as bad ly as a 160lb rider (what most stuff is designed around), and it's going to hold up under you a lot better, so you can build a much lighter bike.

The bad news is that you're going to have a very difficult time finding a full-suspension bike (like the stinky) that will fit you well. Not sure how long the top tube should be for you, but my guess is 20 inches with a 12 inch seat tube. Most "Freeride" hardtails don't come that small(P3), although there are XC frames that do (like the Hardrock). However, the downside to an XC frame is that it may not be designed around a fork with enough travel.

Jamis makes the Durango SX in a 12 inch size. My girlfriend (5'4 on a good day) rode one and said it felt like a clown bike, so you might be good with one of those and a 5 inch fork in the front. Here's a link:
http://www.jamisbikes.com/bikes/05_durangosx.html#

Have you been into a shop and talked with them about sizing options and such? That would probably be your best bet in finding what would work for you. Have you ridden any of the bikes you were thinking of?

It's tough, "real" MTBs are hard to find designed for someone of your size.

 

[I R Ron]

4"10? That's like...14 inches shorter than me....whoa.

First off, good luck finding a bike that will be sized appropriately for you. You might have to look into bikes made for women (no offense), due to the reason that there are full grown women that size. How long do you intend on keeping the bike? If you plan to have it for awhile, I'd advise getting a bigger size and 'growing into' it, or if you're planning to get another one within a couple years, buy something in the sub-$1000 range so you don't get screwed moneywise.

The good news is that at your size, you're not going to stress your components as bad ly as a 160lb rider (what most stuff is designed around), and it's going to hold up under you a lot better, so you can build a much lighter bike.

The bad news is that you're going to have a very difficult time finding a full-suspension bike (like the stinky) that will fit you well. Not sure how long the top tube should be for you, but my guess is 20 inches with a 12 inch seat tube. Most "Freeride" hardtails don't come that small(P3), although there are XC frames that do (like the Hardrock). However, the downside to an XC frame is that it may not be designed around a fork with enough travel.

Jamis makes the Durango SX in a 12 inch size. My girlfriend (5'4 on a good day) rode one and said it felt like a clown bike, so you might be good with one of those and a 5 inch fork in the front. Here's a link:
http://www.jamisbikes.com/bikes/05_durangosx.html#

Have you been into a shop and talked with them about sizing options and such? That would probably be your best bet in finding what would work for you. Have you ridden any of the bikes you were thinking of?

It's tough, "real" MTBs are hard to find designed for someone of your size.

I've ridden my friends Hardrock Sport and Rockhopper. They both felt the same, but it hurts my @$$ just going off a curb. Im not sure about the bikes size, but I know my friend is like 5'6-6foot. If Im on my tip toes, my crotch slighty touches the top tube. About 2years ago i used to be liek that on my curreny bike. And I do plan to grow into this bike. I want the size to be so that if my im on the seat, if have to be on my tip toes in order to keep the bike upright. I dont want it so big like its my neighbors bike. These 2 girls down the street both got Trek(1700 and 3700) and they have to be off the seat and on their tip toes to have the bike stand correctly. I dont want that i hit my balls enough times on my bike already

 

[sanjuro]

Hi guys. Im thinking of getting my first "real" bike before the end of summer. and Im not sure what to get. Im going to mostly use the bike to go to and from school, and to ride around town, but it also has to be hardcore enough(i couldnt think of the right word) so that I can still use it as a all mountain/freeride mountain bike on the weekends. I doesnt matter if its hardtail or full-suspension, but I prefer full more. Price doesnt matter as long as its under $2000. My friend could give me 20-75% deiscount so...ya.Also, what size should I get(how many inches)Im 4'10 80lb and 14 years old(i dont think that matters) Some bikes I have in mind are:
Kona Stinky
Specialized P.3
" "Hardrock Pro Disc

So..what should I get. Also, the bike has to have at least 19gears because where I live its all up and down hill

I also have to warn you about the 20-75% discount. Markup on bikes is about 30-40%, so at best you could expect a 20-30% discount. Also assuming your friend is about your age, I doubt he would have the authority to give you any discount. Only the manager or owner can do that, unless your friend is giving you the five-finger discount.

My advice is to kiss up to the owner or manager. Hang around the shop, be respectful, and see how things are done. I am more likely to help someone that I know than a stranger, particularily with pricing.

 

[jacksonpt]

If you're riding back and forth from school and around town, I'd stick with a hardtail. The Stinky is going to be a beast to push around town... especially if you start racking up any serious miles. A decent hardtail you can put road slicks on and have a pretty decent ride.

Have you considered buying used?

Of those 3, I'd say the hardrock first, then the P3, then the stinky. Since you're only 80lbs, I doubt you're going to be very hard on your bike.

 

[I R Ron]

If you're riding back and forth from school and around town, I'd stick with a hardtail. The Stinky is going to be a beast to push around town... especially if you start racking up any serious miles. A decent hardtail you can put road slicks on and have a pretty decent ride.

Have you considered buying used?

Of those 3, I'd say the hardrock first, then the P3, then the stinky. Since you're only 80lbs, I doubt you're going to be very hard on your bike.

What sizes are avaible for the Hardrock Pro Disc? My friend that I tried the Hardrock from is 5'9 and the bike is perfect for him.

I also have to warn you about the 20-75% discount. Markup on bikes is about 30-40%, so at best you could expect a 20-30% discount. Also assuming your friend is about your age, I doubt he would have the authority to give you any discount. Only the manager or owner can do that, unless your friend is giving you the five-finger discount.

My advice is to kiss up to the owner or manager. Hang around the shop, be respectful, and see how things are done. I am more likely to help someone that I know than a stranger, particularily with pricing.

Its my friends dad thats giving it to me. Not a store

 

[blue]

Touching your crotch? Eeeh...that will be painful trail-wise. I'd go with a small right now and grow into it, because you're still smaller than most bike companies size a small bike for. For trailriding/jumping you will definently want clearance between your nutsack and the top tube when you're standing flatfooted on the ground, otherwise you'll be sterilized at the age of 14...

 

[sanjuro]

Actually, I would not get the Hardrock Pro unless budget is the issue. I question buying a frame which is also stock on the $300 model (the Hardrock Sport). Also the components are nothing special.

This bike is not carried by a lot of Specialized dealers, but I would look at the Rockhopper Pro Disc. It is has a very nice trail/fr spec (Hussefelt crank, Singletrack rims, and an open bath Drop Off fork).

The biggest difference is the frame is lighter than the Hardrock. Since you are not even 100lbs, I doubt you need an overbuilt frame like the Hardrock.

The price is about $400 higher, and you probably have to special order it. Take a look on the web http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?sid=05Rockhopper&bikeTab=techspec

 

[RhinofromWA]

Actually, I would not get the Hardrock Pro unless budget is the issue. I question buying a frame which is also stock on the $300 model (the Hardrock Sport). Also the components are nothing special.

This bike is not carried by a lot of Specialized dealers, but I would look at the Rockhopper Pro Disc. It is has a very nice trail/fr spec (Hussefelt crank, Singletrack rims, and an open bath Drop Off fork).

The biggest difference is the frame is lighter than the Hardrock. Since you are not even 100lbs, I doubt you need an overbuilt frame like the Hardrock.

The price is about $400 higher, and you probably have to special order it. Take a look on the web http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?sid=05Rockhopper&bikeTab=techspec

I wouldn't worry about the frame....

I have been riding a Hard rock Pro Disk (03 model I think) and I weigh more than 3 times I R Ron. I did replace the cranks (because I am so big) but at sub 100#s they shouldn't be a problem.

I would buy a less expensive HT just a "little" bigger and grow into it. Later on you can drop more $$$ as you stop growing. I don't know if you are going to be prone to a growth spurt or not.

I think the specialized bike lines offer some decent bikes in the $500ish range. No need to spend big $$$ on a bike you might grow out of. Most will come in 14" frames (Rockhopper actually lists as 13 and 15 inch frames) Stand over hieght is listed as 27.3" and 27.5 respectively, so take that into consideration. I have a 30inch inseam and run a 19" frame because I like longer TT's i have seen the smaller frames and they look really small. I would stick to a 4inch travel front fork just to keep the front end low-ish for the small frame.

My bike has a non-damped JudyTT. Not the best fork....but for general riding it is fine. Don't DJ with it but it will get you by....now they come with Marz Non-damped forks.

Last weekend I raced my Hardrock pro on a BMX track...

 

[kinghami3]

I would go for a small or medium P.1 or P.2. At this point you should buy a bike that you can grow into, and I'm guessing that unless you're going to have an unbelieveably massive growth spurt, you're not going to need anything bigger than a medium. The Stinky seems too much for what you want to be doing and is a big target for thieves because of the full suspension, which is important if you're riding around town. The P.1 is better than the HR and freeride and dirt jump worthy, but you should upgrade to 8 or 9 speeds (ask a shop for your best option), and is more expensive than the HR. P.2 seems like the happy medium, but I would carry a u-lock with you at all times.

 

[I R Ron]

The stand over hieght of the Hardrock Pro Disc XS is 27.4" will that touch my crotch? Or is it just OK in size

 

[boostindoubles]

I R Ron,

I ride a kona roast dj bike. I paid $1400 for it new out the door from the shop. Kona doesnt sell a roast anymore, and replaced it with the Cowan bike. Its a solid bike and shouldnt cost more than 1400$ complete. Its gonna be small enough to get you around town easily. I can tell you its burly enough to handle any trails you can throw at it. I ride mine for transportation, dirt jumps, downhill, uphill, lol.....dude everywhere.

i am 6 foot 4 inches and 180 lbs. I bought the biggest model they sold. If i were you i would get the smaller version....

stay away from the specialized hardrocks- el cheapo. I watched my friend case a 12 ft double and rip the chainstays off the frame. besides that he was constantly replacing the stock parts as they broke. (often)

I say to you, get something thats going to be big, because at 4'10" and 80lbs and only 14, your going to grow some more. You dont want to get something thats comfortable now and have to get a new frame because you pound your knees into the back of your stem next year.

good luck!

 

[bballboy388]

check out the other kona dirtjump bikes like the scrap its only 799(i think) you probly dont need a cowan at 1100

 

[I R Ron]

I just got back from biking at this local trail( I hurt myself) and I remembered that i need to bike to be light. Under 30lb is ok but I really want under 25,20lb. I have a hard time carrying my current bike(35lb) up stairs so I want to be easier, and also theres a section at my local trail where I have to carry my bike over boulders and across a sream full of rocks and I want it to be easy to get over that.
How heavy is the Scrap, and the Cowan?
If i get that do I go 13' or 15'. I want to still be able to put my toes down on the ground when on the seat.

 

[dogdude]

IMHO no matter what bike you want, at your age and future growth you should get a preowned bike off of ebay. you can get very good deals if you know what to look for. now you may not always be able to find the exact brand and model youre looking for but once again IMHO if youre a little flexible in make/model, then ebay is your best bet. ive seen a lot of 15 inch (if thats not too big) mountain bikes on there that would suit in the city, trail and even some free riding.

 

[d-sop]

i got my p2 at the start of summer last year. so kick ass. if its going to be a regular school bike then get the hardrock, but dont do anything severe on it. just my 2 cents.

 

[I R Ron]

Ok I want people to take a vote, but I dont know how to make a poll,...SO...lets just say the poll is open till tomorrow midnite, and just post what bike you think I should get, and the reason why. The bike to choose from are:
P.2(P.3 seems a little expensive)
Kona Scrap
or Hardrock
or Rockhopper

 

[kinghami3]

P.2, solid design

 

[boostindoubles]

i'll throw down a vote for the kona scrap.

 

[BuddhaRoadkill]

The rockhopper sanjuro linked to would be the best of the bikes suggested. Of the bikes in your poll ... the Hardrock has the better parts spec.

Since your hucking curb and getting off to go around rocks and streams, I don't see a reason you would need the beef of either the Pbikes or the Scrap. It would just be more weight, and not the range of gears you want. The Hardrock won't have the prestige of the others, but it is more suited to your needs. imo.

 

[MikeD]

I've ridden my friends Hardrock Sport and Rockhopper. They both felt the same, but it hurts my @$$ just going off a curb.

Ummm...stand up. Your ass shouldn't hit the seat. You shouldn't roll off a curb, even on a full-on downhill bike, and stay seated. Pedals level, standing on them, ass low over the seat, but move it BACK, behind the seat, if the bike is coming up/you're going down in the course of riding. Knees and legs are your primary shock absorbers, even on DH bike. Learn to ride a hardtail well, then remember the lessons on technique and riding choice if you move to an F/S frame.

Aggressive hardtail is the bike you want. I'd look at the major makers' offerings...the Hardrocks seem to be pretty good as well. Or get a small Supergo frame for $150 or whatever and build it to suit you...

 

[RhinofromWA]

The stand over hieght of the Hardrock Pro Disc XS is 27.4" will that touch my crotch? Or is it just OK in size

What is your current inseam....think about your pants..

They use numbers to tell you how big the waist band it and how long the legs are (also know as the pants inseam) You can use that number as a general guide. But just go straddle some small frames.

The taller your fork gets 3-4-5-6inches of travel the higher that top tube is going to get....as it has to reach all the way up tot he top of the fork in front even if the seat tube is short. At a point the standover height is going to level off on most frames and no longer get lower.

Hopefully you are still growing and the nut buster issue will lessen. I am 5'11" and my pants are 29-30" inseams....I have short legs and a long upper body....so I can relate to your fram sizing question. I am riding a 19" Hardrock frame (as a mainly XC rig) when I normally would run a 18 max because teh seat tube extendes up out more past the top tube....

What shops do you have aroud your house?

BTW any bike that comes in at 25lbs and under is going to be a XC race bike and might not be what you are looking for in the long run. Basically I would worry about the wheels and frame on a XC race rig for abbusive riding....even at your weight. But it could get you by until your next growth spurt.

 

[sanjuro]

Another consideration is growth spurt. XS should be his size now. But what about two years from now, or even one? He could shoot up to 5'4" in a year, which should be a Small.

At the shop, I always try to get kids on the largest bike they feel comfortable on. I know this goes right into the myth that the bigger bike is better, but usually it is just one size larger, not 2 or 3.

 

[dogdude]

Another consideration is growth spurt. XS should be his size now. But what about two years from now, or even one? He could shoot up to 5'4" in a year, which should be a Small.

At the shop, I always try to get kids on the largest bike they feel comfortable on. I know this goes right into the myth that the bigger bike is better, but usually it is just one size larger, not 2 or 3.

EBAY...EBAY...EBAY. its almost a sure bet that anything you buy now you're gonna out grow in two years if not one year. why buy a high priced new rig that gonna be too small for you in no time at all

 

[I R Ron]

What is your current inseam....think about your pants..

They use numbers to tell you how big the waist band it and how long the legs are (also know as the pants inseam) You can use that number as a general guide. But just go straddle some small frames.

The taller your fork gets 3-4-5-6inches of travel the higher that top tube is going to get....as it has to reach all the way up tot he top of the fork in front even if the seat tube is short. At a point the standover height is going to level off on most frames and no longer get lower.

Hopefully you are still growing and the nut buster issue will lessen. I am 5'11" and my pants are 29-30" inseams....I have short legs and a long upper body....so I can relate to your fram sizing question. I am riding a 19" Hardrock frame (as a mainly XC rig) when I normally would run a 18 max because teh seat tube extendes up out more past the top tube....

What shops do you have aroud your house?

BTW any bike that comes in at 25lbs and under is going to be a XC race bike and might not be what you are looking for in the long run. Basically I would worry about the wheels and frame on a XC race rig for abbusive riding....even at your weight. But it could get you by until your next growth spurt.

Im not even sure if we have a bike shop arround where I live. I know we have 2 motorcycle shops cause I went into both to ask questions about my pocket bike. There probablly is a shop around here, because me friend fell and he had to change his grips, and he fell another time and the rear wheel got so bent that it hit the frame. He got them fixed at the same shop but he doesnt know where it is cause he doesnt really care. Hes 180lb. Everyone makes fun of him at school becasue hes the fattest guy there. The fattest girl is this 7th grader. She ran the mile in like 15-20min i think. Srry to get off subject

 

[d-sop]

ride other people's bikes. you'll get a feel for what you want.

but ask first

 

[sanjuro]

Im not even sure if we have a bike shop arround where I live. I know we have 2 motorcycle shops cause I went into both to ask questions about my pocket bike. There probablly is a shop around here, because me friend fell and he had to change his grips, and he fell another time and the rear wheel got so bent that it hit the frame. He got them fixed at the same shop but he doesnt know where it is cause he doesnt really care. Hes 180lb. Everyone makes fun of him at school becasue hes the fattest guy there. The fattest girl is this 7th grader. She ran the mile in like 15-20min i think. Srry to get off subject

Ok, kid try this shop:

PERFORMANCE CYCLERY
26067 BOUQUET CANYON RD
SANTA CLARITA, CA 91350-2639

They are a Specialized Dealer. Make sure your mom brings her credit card before you go.

 

[I R Ron]

Well that voting didnt go so well. One vote for each bike. My friend is giving me his Haro Backtrail X0 for free so Ill just wait till I grow out of the mountain bike Im using, because now I have 2 bikes I could use that are both good sizes for me.

 

[boostindoubles]

sounds like a good plan little man!

 

[Changleen]

What about a BMX? It's cheaper (you could buy a sweet BMX with the money you're talking about), it'd fit you better and in a couple of years you'll be a much better rider than all these fools. Look at all the top MTBers and see what they started out riding. BMX every time.

 

[I R Ron]

What about a BMX? It's cheaper (you could buy a sweet BMX with the money you're talking about), it'd fit you better and in a couple of years you'll be a much better rider than all these fools. Look at all the top MTBers and see what they started out riding. BMX every time.

My very first bike was a Huffy Warp Drive which was a BMX bike. I like BMX bikes, but now we moved in the mountains and I started biking with my fat friend(hes right next to me,we're in school) and hes slow and I switched to a mountain bike because I havent riden uphill with a single speed for a long time so i had to go easy. Sorry if i dont make sense. I forget what i wanted to say cause ill get in trouble if my teachers sees me here and not making a website

 

[boostindoubles]

changleen actually has a good point. I didnt make the coversion into mtb's until i was 17-18. I live on a farm and didnt have anyone/anywhere to ride so i built a dirt jump course in my back yard. In the winter i would pull my parents cars out of the garage and practice bunnyhops and 180 bunnyhops for hours. When i switched to a mtb my skills were already honed and i was able to get used to it quick. Now after riding a mtb for 3 years, when i get on a bmx its insane how high i can hop them things.

peace

* and while the huffy warp drive was a bmx bike, it aint a real bmx bike. It makes a huge difference in the quality of the ride.

 

[***MTB***]

look at the p series in the size, xs

 

[PatBranch]

If you get 24" wheels you could use a frame that is a little big with 26"'s.