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Help with trials bike build

Discussion in 'Trials' started by boogenman, Oct 18, 2011.

  1. boogenman

    boogenman Turbo Monkey

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    I am going to be building a stock bike over the winter and spring and I need a lot of help. I have been out of the trials scene for about 10 years so parts are all foreign to me.

    I am 99% sure my frame will be a FTW WTF and that is about all I know at this point. What other parts should I get and from where? I am associated with a shop so getting as much as possible from QBP and J&B would be nice.

    Here is a short list of questions, wants and a background:

    -I'm around 200lbs so strength over weight is important.
    -I want to keep the cost as low as possible while still getting quality brakes and a quick engaging freehub.
    -rear rim brake or rear disc?
    -are there any new rim brake pads out? Grinding and or using tar is a pain in the ass. plazmatic still around?
    - it seems like everyone uses hope brakes, what's wrong with avid?
    -what kind of gear ratio is the way to go now?

    That's all for now I am sure I will have more questions and feel free to ask me questions. I was going to post this up on OTN but figured I would start here.
     

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  2. eaterofdog

    eaterofdog ass grabber

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    20 or 26? You probably do not want to be running disc brakes on a 26. It's a marginal set up. 24 is as big as I would go with discs.

    Do not not not cheap out on the drivetrain. You are betting your teeth that your freewheel doesn't skip and your chain doesn't break. You will have to pay for a King rear hub or similar if you want reliable street gearing. If you want to ride pure trials, go with FFW and get an Echo 108 fw and you are good.

    TNN has a very good rep with their rims pads.

    Avid BB7s are probably the most popular disc brake. (The older silver model is better than newer) Simple and strong. I got a pair of new 2006 calipers on ebay for $90. I run them with Avid Ultimate levers, Ripcord housing and organic pads. They are awesome.

    For the most part, you can use MTB stuff, it's just going to be heavier.
     
  3. IH8Rice

    IH8Rice I'm Mr. Negative! I Fail!

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    200lbs :rofl: :rofl:
     
  4. boogenman

    boogenman Turbo Monkey

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    I'm not Buffalo mike.

    The trail bike has treated me well idoson, ask angry albany Jon next time u see him.

    Eaterofdog, what the hell is FFW and TNN? Front freewheel? I was going to ask that if that is what it is. The last three Monty's I had all had a fixed rear hub with a front freewheel on the crank. I don't mind throwing the cash down for a Chris king rear hub if it will be the best option.

    I also am not a huge fan of the avid BB7, I have them on my giant STP(2005) and I think they feel slow. I will cough up extra $$ for hydro brakes and a nice drivetrain.

    Like I said it is gonna be a stock(26") do they no longer call 26" stock? Should I get a Magura rim brake for the back?
     
  5. eaterofdog

    eaterofdog ass grabber

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    Yeah front freewheel. This is a good setup if you are running trials gearing. The Echo 108 freewheel is awesome for the $75 or so it costs. King is good if you want to run street gearing, but it's gonna cost a bit more than a rear trials hub plus freewheel.

    Go over to tarty bikes uk and browse around to see TNNs and a lot of the other current stuff on the market. Check out the hub/freewheel prices etc. Great site to order from, fast fair shipping from the UK somehow. They will also answer questions in a competent manner.

    Your BB7 setup is subpar. Hydros are good, but don't get cheap ones. And don't cry when you bash the **** out of your expensive brake.

    Yes, stock. Most "stock" bikes are what used to be called modstock. 24 bikes are getting popular, so I use wheel size now. I ride 24 and love it. Sold my 26 a while ago.

    I don't really like maggie rims brakes too much, but they are a good option for 26. Nothing locks like a maggie. But you really have to run good pads and keep a good grind on for them to really be worth it. Grinding is a pain in the ass. And they are slow as hell. If you think your gunked up BB7s are slow, maggies take twice as long. You have to plan ahead and schedule the brake engagement. I would run a bearing pivot v brake if I had to choose a rim brake. Much snappier.

    edit: Also, when I say don't run disc on 26, I mean in the rear. The big 26 wheel torques the hell out of the brake. Running disc in the front is recommended.
     
    #5 -   Oct 18, 2011
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2011
  6. buddylembeck

    buddylembeck Chimp

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    Agree w/ eod on everything except running a disc up front. its all preference...most of the pros on stocks run dual maggies these days ...and as a beginner there is no way youd benefit by trading locking power for modulation in the front. Only moves that helps with are gap to fronts and maybe taps...

    Im in the process of building up a FTW frame this winter too
     
  7. jonKranked

    jonKranked Press Button, Receive Stupid

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    so kevin how's the bike coming
     
  8. boogenman

    boogenman Turbo Monkey

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    Bought a 26" echo brand new last April. Swapped out the tires, rear brakes and got some TNN LGM brake pads. I'm pretty happy with it but if I was to do it again I would get a frame with a lower bottom bracket, it suits my old school trials style a bit better.

    What are you building up?
     
    #8 -   Apr 18, 2013
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2013