[Secret Squirrel]

My head hurtz.

Here's the dizzle: As I log more and more commute miles, I'm finding that there are certain limitations on my 'cross bike. The components are perfectly fine, but the frame is a bit small for me. I'm riding an XL Scott CX Team (60cm). Well...I'm 6'7" so while it was a good beginner, learn-the-ways type of bike, I need (read: want) something a bit more suited to my hammering, lanky ass style.

I'm a big fan of Ti frames because of the rigidity (I clock in at about 265) and steel is real (I rode an old skool steel Motobecane for a bit). I've been checking out a bunch of the Ti frame manufacturers that would do custom geo for a guy like me and boy...you take it in the shorts when it comes to price. However, that's not a worry in my book cause I've learned the hard way, you get what you pay for.

All that said, I do believe that if I could keep a frameset around 2G, and be able to transfer all my components over to the new frame, that would be ideal.

Here's the list of manufacturers that I've compiled so far (feel free to toss in personal anecdotes and any new additions to this list, it would be greatly appreciated.):

Litespeed
Serotta
Dean
Merlin
Seven
Moots


Thanks guys!!!

 

[H8R]

Landshark. Beautiful steel bikes. Strong like bear.

 

[H8R]

BTW- fvck you for using the word "dizzle".

 

[LordOpie]

first, you already know this, but I'll say it again anyways... get professionally measured by someone reputable in your 'hood. It'll cost ~$200, but you have to unless your builder is local and capable of measuring you up right.

For $1000, you can get a true temper steel frame from http://waltworks.com/dev/index.php

 

[Wumpus]

You're going to have a tough time finding a Ti frame for $2000 -- a nice steel frame definitely.

I have a sweet HT from BREW (brewracingframes.com). You could even build your own.

 

[Secret Squirrel]

Landshark. Beautiful steel bikes. Strong like bear.

Oh my....Those do look very, very, very nice. Thanks!

first, you already know this, but I'll say it again anyways... get professionally measured by someone reputable in your 'hood. It'll cost ~$200, but you have to unless your builder is local and capable of measuring you up right.

For $1000, you can get a true temper steel frame from http://waltworks.com/dev/index.php

Yah. There's a place that's local that I might have an 'in' at. That's where I'd go to get measured anywayz.

 

[Wumpus]

More builders -- http://www.handmadebicycleshow.com/framebuilders.html

 

[reflux]

I absolutely LOVE my Dean, but there have been way too many CS complaints about the company for the past several years. It's made worse by the fact that their frames are no longer budget boutique like they once were.

If you decide to go steel, please make sure that the builder has experience building frames for a guy of your size. I've seen, and am still experiencing, steel frames flex under guys much smaller than you (read: me 160lb).

 

[H8R]

Oh my....Those do look very, very, very nice. Thanks!



Yah. There's a place that's local that I might have an 'in' at. That's where I'd go to get measured anywayz.

A good shop that carries frames you might be interested in should measure you and give you a break on the fitting fee if you get the frame from them.

That's what we did at the shop I worked at anyway.


We sold Landsharks. They are completely TITS. Beautiful fillet brazing and amazing finishes. Contact them and tell them what you need and I'm sure they can set you up.

 

[OGRipper]

All of those are great choices for average-sized people. But you are above average, so unless you know they have experience and a good reputation with larger sizes, be careful. There is more to preserving ride characteristics in a big frame than just using longer tubes.

I suggest you email Lennard Zinn at Velonews. He is tall like you and has the specialized knowledge you seek. At the very least, look up some of his writing on the subject.

 

[MMcG]

Check into what Scott Quiring at Quiring cycles is charging for his Ti frames and also whether or not he'd do a Ti CX frame - I believe he was several hundred dollars under 2K for a Ti frame and he does beautiful work from what I've been able to see.

I don't see Ti listed on his site, but I know he does work with Ti and he does really magical work with it from what I can tell.

Edit: Found a few shots on his gallery page of one:

http://www.quiringcycles.net/igallery/igallery.asp?d=\cyclo-cross\cyclo-cross+titanium\

 

[Secret Squirrel]

All of those are great choices for average-sized people. But you are above average, so unless you know they have experience and a good reputation with larger sizes, be careful. There is more to preserving ride characteristics in a big frame than just using longer tubes.

I suggest you email Lennard Zinn at Velonews. He is tall like you and has the specialized knowledge you seek. At the very least, look up some of his writing on the subject.

Yeah...I found this out when going through the build process for my Turner RFX...I have an XL which has an extra gusset at the top tube - seat tube junction. I was like, "I'm specialllll. Yaaaaay!"



Thanks for all the suggestions d00ds!

 

[Serial Midget]

Serotta!!!!

I have many, many miles on mine.

I'd go steel rather than ti - you are 6ft7 the extra ounces will be meaningless.

 

[Silver]

I'd look into Curtlo as well...

 

[splat]

I'd also add seven http://www.sevencycles.com/

but where do you live ? are there any Custom frame builders near by you can talk too ?

 

[Secret Squirrel]

I'd also add seven http://www.sevencycles.com/

but where do you live ? are there any Custom frame builders near by you can talk too ?

Seattle...From the list that Wumpus tossed up there weren't any in WA...I do know a few people to talk to that may have more contacts for me to speak with...And the more I look at it the more I think steel would be the best choice for me. That Landshark dealie-o is *reasonably* close in Oregon and looks like he's got the process down...I'll make some calls and inquiries after my vaca to Whistler this weekend.

 

[OGRipper]

There is a significant and growing group of builders in Portland. Check out some reports from the North American Handmade Bicycle Show. Cyclingnews.com in particular has good coverage.

But I still think you are making a mistake if you don't at least check out Zinn Cycles. He is 6' 6" and a global authority on this stuff.

http://www.zinncycles.com/bikes.aspx?bike=projbig

I am familiar with the shimmy and shake that many tall bicycles get at high speeds or riding with no hands, and I design my bikes to eliminate it. I know how whippy a tall frame can be standing or sprinting, and my designs address that as well. While being stiff, stable, and shimmy free, these frames are also built with the strongest available double-butted tubing-- True Temper OX Gold or Platinum or with oversized high-strength 3A1/2.5V titanium tubing. You get a long-lasting frame with a weight that belies its stiffness, strength and durability.

Big and Tall Custom Bikes are built with oversized tubing and unique frame geometry. The oversized tubing minimizes weight while maximizing stiffness and increasing the resonant frequency of the frame (thus reducing shimmy). The top tube is long enough for proper upper body extension, and by lowering and sloping the top tube we are able to make the bike stiffer, lighter, better. The bottom bracket is raised to accomodate for the crank length you select. The front end geometry provides great stability and minimizes shock transfer into the frame.

On road frames, the seat tube is shortened, and the top tube is lowered to stiffen the main triangle. The head tube on Big and Tall Custom road frames is reinforced and extends 1-1/2" to 3-1/2" above the top tube, making the effective frame size taller than the seat tube length indicates to maintain sufficient handlebar stem height. This design feature increases the rigidity of these tall frames and eliminate high-speed shimmy problems while still allowing the seat and stem to be set as high as needed. By lowering the top tube, the vertical dimension of the frame's front and rear triangles is smaller, resulting in a stiffer frame that will not twist back and forth as easily. We also suggest sloping the top tube to gain even more of the benefits described above. An oversized seatpost (29.8mm on steel big frames and 28.6mm on titanium ones) delivers abundant rigidity with the shorter seat tube.

 

[Secret Squirrel]

There is a significant and growing group of builders in Portland. Check out some reports from the North American Handmade Bicycle Show. Cyclingnews.com in particular has good coverage.

But I still think you are making a mistake if you don't at least check out Zinn Cycles. He is 6' 6" and a global authority on this stuff.

http://www.zinncycles.com/bikes.aspx?bike=projbig

I am familiar with the shimmy and shake that many tall bicycles get at high speeds or riding with no hands, and I design my bikes to eliminate it. I know how whippy a tall frame can be standing or sprinting, and my designs address that as well. While being stiff, stable, and shimmy free, these frames are also built with the strongest available double-butted tubing-- True Temper OX Gold or Platinum or with oversized high-strength 3A1/2.5V titanium tubing. You get a long-lasting frame with a weight that belies its stiffness, strength and durability.

Big and Tall Custom Bikes are built with oversized tubing and unique frame geometry. The oversized tubing minimizes weight while maximizing stiffness and increasing the resonant frequency of the frame (thus reducing shimmy). The top tube is long enough for proper upper body extension, and by lowering and sloping the top tube we are able to make the bike stiffer, lighter, better. The bottom bracket is raised to accomodate for the crank length you select. The front end geometry provides great stability and minimizes shock transfer into the frame.

On road frames, the seat tube is shortened, and the top tube is lowered to stiffen the main triangle. The head tube on Big and Tall Custom road frames is reinforced and extends 1-1/2" to 3-1/2" above the top tube, making the effective frame size taller than the seat tube length indicates to maintain sufficient handlebar stem height. This design feature increases the rigidity of these tall frames and eliminate high-speed shimmy problems while still allowing the seat and stem to be set as high as needed. By lowering the top tube, the vertical dimension of the frame's front and rear triangles is smaller, resulting in a stiffer frame that will not twist back and forth as easily. We also suggest sloping the top tube to gain even more of the benefits described above. An oversized seatpost (29.8mm on steel big frames and 28.6mm on titanium ones) delivers abundant rigidity with the shorter seat tube.

Oh, make no mistake about it, I checked out his site. I plan on shooting him an email before I make any concrete decisions on this. I just want to have as many ducks in a row before I go talk to the "man" himself so I don't sound like a complete retard. I want to actually talk to the builders themselves and get an initial feel for how they work. So when I go and write the e-mail I can put down as much info with comparisons and ask for specific opinions.

Like I wouldn't just walk up to Carroll Shelby and be like, "Dude...this car rulz. Why didn't you bore out the heads, like, another inch? It woulda given you a hell of a lot more bang for your buck!!"

Know what I mean?

 

[OGRipper]

Gotcha, cool. I've talked with Zinn a few times, he's very approachable and a real guru. Good luck.

 

[splat]

Seattle...From the list that Wumpus tossed up there weren't any in WA...I do know a few people to talk to that may have more contacts for me to speak with...And the more I look at it the more I think steel would be the best choice for me. That Landshark dealie-o is *reasonably* close in Oregon and looks like he's got the process down...I'll make some calls and inquiries after my vaca to Whistler this weekend.

what do you mean there aren't any in WA!

I Have friends who have had custom tandems made by Rodriguez
http://www.rodcycle.com/index.html


and there are others

http://www.curtlo.com/

http://www.cascadebicyclestudio.com/

http://www.lightfootcycles.com/

http://www.taylorbicycles.com/

 

[Mike B.]

He's probably on the handmade show listing but how about DeSalvo. He builds steel and ti for mountain, road, and cross and is one of the instructors for the UBI frame building school.

 

[MMcG]

Oh, make no mistake about it, I checked out his site. I plan on shooting him an email before I make any concrete decisions on this. I just want to have as many ducks in a row before I go talk to the "man" himself so I don't sound like a complete retard. I want to actually talk to the builders themselves and get an initial feel for how they work. So when I go and write the e-mail I can put down as much info with comparisons and ask for specific opinions.

Like I wouldn't just walk up to Carroll Shelby and be like, "Dude...this car rulz. Why didn't you bore out the heads, like, another inch? It woulda given you a hell of a lot more bang for your buck!!"

Know what I mean?

Holy Crap that is one ginormous bike. If that bike doesn't scream out bigger wheels for super tall road riders (just like 29ers make a ton of sense from a proportion angle for tall MTBers) than I don't know what does???

I mean those wheels look puny compared to the frame. It would be the equivalent of me riding a road bike with 20" wheels on it it would seem? No?

I mean they design the frame to fit around the rider and those wheels, but I wonder if anyone has given thought to also factoring in increase road bike wheel size into the equation???? I mean if you are going to design something for a person of that height - why leave out the wheels in the considerations?

 

[Secret Squirrel]

Holy Crap that is one ginormous bike. If that bike doesn't scream out bigger wheels for super tall road riders (just like 29ers make a ton of sense from a proportion angle for tall MTBers) than I don't know what does???

I mean those wheels look puny compared to the frame. It would be the equivalent of me riding a road bike with 20" wheels on it it would seem? No?

I mean they design the frame to fit around the rider and those wheels, but I wonder if anyone has given thought to also factoring in increase road bike wheel size into the equation???? I mean if you are going to design something for a person of that height - why leave out the wheels in the considerations?

Well...a custom bike like that is not cheap...then you'd have to have custom everything else (including all the replaceables like tires, tubes, etc....)

what do you mean there aren't any in WA!

I Have friends who have had custom tandems made by Rodriguez
http://www.rodcycle.com/index.html


and there are others

http://www.curtlo.com/

http://www.cascadebicyclestudio.com/

http://www.lightfootcycles.com/

http://www.taylorbicycles.com/

Sorry...I meant there weren't any immediately apparent on that list you posted. I did do a little more research and found lightfoot and cascade though. Thanks for the linky's!!!

 

[OGRipper]

Holy Crap that is one ginormous bike. If that bike doesn't scream out bigger wheels for super tall road riders (just like 29ers make a ton of sense from a proportion angle for tall MTBers) than I don't know what does???

I mean those wheels look puny compared to the frame. It would be the equivalent of me riding a road bike with 20" wheels on it it would seem? No?

I mean they design the frame to fit around the rider and those wheels, but I wonder if anyone has given thought to also factoring in increase road bike wheel size into the equation???? I mean if you are going to design something for a person of that height - why leave out the wheels in the considerations?

That's why Zinn promotes 29" wheels for bigger mountain bikes. Also why he promotes longer cranks (and adjusts bb height accordingly),sources forks with super long steer tubes, etc., etc.

 

[Five]

Yo G - Davidson bikes and Rodriguez bikes are custom frame makers in the hood. Davidson is out of Elliot Bay Bikes and Rodriguez is out of R&E Cycles. A couple of friends have Davidson steel frames and love em...although they're not in the 6'7" range.

 

[Silver]

I mean if you are going to design something for a person of that height - why leave out the wheels in the considerations?

How easy is it to get tubes and tires for custom sized wheels?

 

[Wumpus]

How easy is it to get tubes and tires for custom sized wheels?

According to Rivendell it is about $16,000 to get a mold designed for a new tire. Then you actually have to find someone that will produce it.

 

[GravityFreakTJ]

check out Roark . seriously nice.

 

[Serial Midget]

Rodriguez cycles!!!

Seattle...From the list that Wumpus tossed up there weren't any in WA...I do know a few people to talk to that may have more contacts for me to speak with...And the more I look at it the more I think steel would be the best choice for me. That Landshark dealie-o is *reasonably* close in Oregon and looks like he's got the process down...I'll make some calls and inquiries after my vaca to Whistler this weekend.

http://www.sandsmachine.com/bp_rod.htm

 

[Serial Midget]

Davidson in Seattle. A good friend of mine had a tri bike built in the late 80s. He probably has 100,000 miles on it. Great steel builder with a fantastic local reputation among roadies who aren't influenced by the hype. http://www.davidsonbicycles.com/html/home.shtml

 

[Serial Midget]

Rodriguez has a great rep for touring frames - plus their bikes have integrated bottle openers, perfect for micro brews.

what do you mean there aren't any in WA!

I Have friends who have had custom tandems made by Rodriguez
http://www.rodcycle.com/index.html


and there are others

http://www.curtlo.com/

http://www.cascadebicyclestudio.com/

http://www.lightfootcycles.com/

http://www.taylorbicycles.com/

 

[Secret Squirrel]

Rodriguez has a great rep for touring frames - plus their bikes have integrated bottle openers, perfect for micro brews.

O.k. Debate over. Hands down winnar for me.