[JRB]

an Airborne Manhattan Project for my best friend. He is also my boss and I plan to have it in his office when he gets to work tomorrow. I will also get some pics to post. It's sexy with a DA 10 speed group. Open Pros even. I think it should make for some nice pics tomorrow.

*he bought it. I am not sucking up. Just picked it up and tuned it, since he is flying in from Florida.

 

[Pau11y]

Brown-noser!

 

[Mr Tiles]

I just did a tune up for a co-worker that has the new dura ace grouppo. I gotta say it shifts pretty nicely....almost as good as record 10. The two groups are distinctly different and I'm glad I got to toy around with dura-ace just to see if I was missing anything. Seems really solid in the crank area. The outboard bearing set up is sweet.

 

[Silver]

I'd love my next bike to have Chorus, but unless the Euro takes a dive, that isn't happening...

Pics!!!

 

[LordOpie]

Loco my friend. Are you new here? DON'T START A THREAD LIKE THIS WITHOUT THE PORN!


PS: brown-noser indeed!

 

[JRB]

I will take the pics later. I was bored. Leave me alone.

 

[Pau11y]

Brown-noser

 

[Wumpus]

Where are the f'in pics?

 

[JRB]

Where are the f'in pics?

I will have to take them tomorrow or Saturday. We have consultants in and I couldn't get to it yesterday. Now the bike is at Kevin's house.

 

[MMcG]

where are the pics loco???

 

[Wumpus]

Good time to get those pics up since it's raining.

 

[MMcG]

yeah no kidding - let's go loco!

 

[JRB]

I got to get back to the bike, first.

 

[LordOpie]

you suck loco. I'm thinking there is NO bike.

 

[Wumpus]

I am riding with him tomorrow, so I will get pics.

*loco on Wumpus' pc.

 

[LordOpie]

pc = penisc0ck ?

 

[Silver]

Ouch, the difference between Ultegra and Chorus on that bike is $730. ****ing euro...

 

[JRB]

pc = penisc0ck ?

Of course - I don't know how we could even type.

*say it out loud and tell me if it sounds as stupid to you.

 

[Pau11y]

Yo Loco, where's the porn?

 

[JRB]

Here's the first one. I will resize the others when I get back from Chicago, on Wednesday.

 

[Silver]

Gotta lose the co2 underneath the top tube, but nice ride otherwise!

 

[LordOpie]

with CO2 like that, you might as well have a Road Morph.

Let's see how we can pick on Loco some more...

oh, how about rolling those handlebars up some? What's with the bashguard ring? And are you trying to break the rear derail and/or chain?

Finally, I like how you have it in front of that fence... makes it hard for us to see your mistakes.





oh, just phuckin' with ya.

 

[caputo1989]

Nice, But why spinergy?

 

[motomike]

too bad Airborne isn't Made in the USA. P.O.S.

 

[Wumpus]

too bad Airborne isn't Made in the USA. P.O.S.

Would you like to expand on that? If you are calling somebody ride a pos just because it wasn't made in the US then that's pretty lame.

 

[JRB]

Nice, But why spinergy?

He's had them for a while and just put them on. He bought it with Open Pros and DA hubs. Not sure why he isn't riding those.

 

[LordOpie]

He's had them for a while and just put them on. He bought it with Open Pros and DA hubs. Not sure why he isn't riding those.

Those are handbuilt by Wheelsmith, yeah? What pattern?

Since I'm not about performance, I want to get mine re-built 3x.

 

[Pau11y]

He's had them for a while and just put them on. He bought it with Open Pros and DA hubs. Not sure why he isn't riding those.

Tell him to give me his DA hubs. I'd ride them and be very happy about it

LO, when I come down I can help you rebuild your wheels 3x. You get the parts and beers, I'll build. How much do you weigh, how tall are you and what's your inseam? This will tell me if it's safe to use alloy nipples and/or db spokes.

 

[Pau11y]

too bad Airborne isn't Made in the USA. P.O.S.

My De Rosa isn't made in the USA. Are you telling me my De Rosa is a pile? Do you know what a De Rosa is? Do you ride road? I'm sure you ride Shimano or Campy if you do ride road, and neither of those companies are based in the USA, nor do they make their parts in the USA. Do they suck? How about rims? Mavic = France, do they suck?

 

[LordOpie]

LO, when I come down I can help you rebuild your wheels 3x. You get the parts and beers, I'll build. How much do you weigh, how tall are you and what's your inseam? This will tell me if it's safe to use alloy nipples and/or db spokes.

cool! Thanks bro!

When ya coming?!

We'll talk about the specifics then, but in the meantime... my wheel (OP+Ult) is slightly out and the spokes keep coming slightly loose. I'm checking 'my wheel now before every ride, just in case. Is it a bad idea to ride it or does slightly out not really matter?

 

[Pau11y]

cool! Thanks bro!

When ya coming?!

We'll talk about the specifics then, but in the meantime... my wheel (OP+Ult) is slightly out and the spokes keep coming slightly loose. I'm checking 'my wheel now before every ride, just in case. Is it a bad idea to ride it or does slightly out not really matter?

Whoever built your wheel musta not used thread lock, altho I tend to build w/ TriFlo and no thread lock myself. It's prob just not tensioned properly. I couldn't afford a tensionmeter so I've learn how to tension by sound/feel. Stress relief is pretty key during a build/true session. Once it's near tension, I constantly stress relief.
As for "slightly" out, how far is it exactly. On my DH bike, slightly could be up to 1/8 either way. On my trail bike, that would be pretty big, and on a road, that is rubbing my stays. If you're talking about 1/32 to 1/16 either way, you should be ok. The only thing you'll notice is poor braking. When you check your wheel in the frame and adjusting slightly to compensate, are you stress relieving afterwards? If not, it may look straight until you hop on. Then, it'll go the other way. If your nipples are sticky (which means someone DID use thread lock, or there's corrosion) and you tweak till straight, then it maybe too far. Are your wheels twanging and popping when you first hop on after your slight adjustments? If they are, they're releasing the stress you've put into the spokes when you twist the nipples (hum... filthy thoughts there...). This is why I tend to use TriFlo, so there's no (or at least less) binding when you twist the nips and you can get a more accurate true w/o stress relief.

Edit: I'll be down first part of Aug. School starts 3rd week of Aug.

 

[JRB]

I use linseed oil. It's starts slick, but later gums up a little. Days later that is.

 

[Pau11y]

I use linseed oil. It's starts slick, but later gums up a little. Days later that is.

I've heard that's good too. But I prefer to keep mine free spinnin' all the time, especially on the mountain bikes. FYI, I've also build a set of Kysriums. That was a strange experience as there's almost no stress relieving since AL spokes don't stretch much. The most tedious build was w/ a steel bladed spoked wheel where I had to use a crescent wrench to grip the spokes as I tensioned everything up. That wheel is now on one of the De Rosas I'm trying to sell, and I haven't had to retrue since the build

Edit: I've read somewhere those bladed steel spokes are stronger than normal straight gague spokes...go figure. Just don't get your hand caught in a spinning wheel w/ these spokes. It'll cut the crap out of you

 

[LordOpie]

Whoever built your wheel musta not used thread lock, altho I tend to build w/ TriFlo and no thread lock myself. It's prob just not tensioned properly. I couldn't afford a tensionmeter so I've learn how to tension by sound/feel. Stress relief is pretty key during a build/true session. Once it's near tension, I constantly stress relief.
As for "slightly" out, how far is it exactly. On my DH bike, slightly could be up to 1/8 either way. On my trail bike, that would be pretty big, and on a road, that is rubbing my stays. If you're talking about 1/32 to 1/16 either way, you should be ok. The only thing you'll notice is poor braking. When you check your wheel in the frame and adjusting slightly to compensate, are you stress relieving afterwards? If not, it may look straight until you hop on. Then, it'll go the other way. If your nipples are sticky (which means someone DID use thread lock, or there's corrosion) and you tweak till straight, then it maybe too far. Are your wheels twanging and popping when you first hop on after your slight adjustments? If they are, they're releasing the stress you've put into the spokes when you twist the nipples (hum... filthy thoughts there...). This is why I tend to use TriFlo, so there's no (or at least less) binding when you twist the nips and you can get a more accurate true w/o stress relief.

wow, I know so little about wheels

The were machine built.

How do you stress relief?

All I'm doing at the moment is spinning it, finding where it's rubbing the break and adjusting the looser spokes on the other side until it doesn't do that.

yes yes, I'm an idiot. We don't need to focus on that

 

[ito]

yes yes, I'm an idiot.

Tension relief is done by squeezing the spokes together while truing. If you've ever had to true one of those machine laced pairs out of a box you'll notice that as soon as you get on it will start popping and pinging, that is the spokes shifting about and setting themselves. When truing there is can be a bit of sticking with the spokes and this can cause windup(I think that's the name). You want to make sure that before you put it on the bike you get all the pops and pings out of the spokes(on a 3x wheel you squeeze parallel spokes together) as the wheel is not always true after it destresses. As for why the spoke keeps coming loose, I'm thinking another part of the wheel is badly tensioned. If it's only coming loose on one side there might be too much tension on the other....best bet is to try to find a truing stand to use.

It sounds like Pau11y knows his stuff about wheels though, so he'll probably be able to hook you up.

The Ito

 

[JRB]

LO - Pau11y may be able to tension the wheel. I have machine built from performance and the thing wouldn't stay true. I took it apart and relaced it with linseed oil. I have rarely touched it since.

 

[Pau11y]

LO if you plan on rebuilding your wheels, you may be able to reuse the spokes but replace the nipples. If you weigh more than 200#s use brass always. What I typically do is tension to the end of the threads on the spokes w/ the nipples. If too tight at that point, back off 1 full turn when you've reached the end of the threads, 2 full turns if necessary. This will start a good baseline for tensioning. Next, it's 1/2 turns around the entire wheel till close to tension. You can monitor how much you turn by the nipple driver slot on the tire side. Be sure to wear safety glasses incase the spoke/nipple pops and it comes shooting at your eyes. Full tension for me is a combo of feel and sound and I can't relate it by words very well. Drive side is high pitch and tighter than the non-drive obviously. Dish and hop is checked all the while the wheel is being tensioned. I have the Park Pro stand (TS1?) which does dish. But I still like to check dish w/ a dish tool. Dish is corrected w/ 1/4 turns to rough. Hop is corrected after each round of 1/2 turn and before the next round. Also, w/ each 1/2 turn round you stress relief after. As you get close to tension, use 1/4 turns and then 1/8 turn. This is where I find TriFlo better than anything else as the spoke windup is less w/ it than thread lock or linseed oil.
Once the wheel is up to tension, trued, dished and hops taken out, you take it off the stand, lay it on a soft surface and put some side loads on the rim w/ the hub as a fulcrum at a min of 4 points to even further stress relief. While doing this, put your fingers at a nipple/rim junction. If you can FEEL the spoke/nipple getting loose, it's not at tension yet. Then put it back in the stand and true again. Do this till it doesn't come out of true anymore. It may take as much as 1/2 dozen times (especially if I haven't built in a while). Use force appropriate for the wheel you're building - don't go reefin' on a road wheel, and don't be too gentle w/ a DH wheel.

Expect to blow up a couple of your first ones if you've never done this before. Mavic and the DT Swiss rims build really easy as they're very round and flat. Suns aren't nearly as easy, but equally strong once built. With eyelet'd rims, you use less force at the nipple wrench than w/ non-eyelet'd rims. DB spokes flex more than straight, but sometimes may have higher pitch than straight. 3x uses slightly less tension than radial, hence flexes more.

 

[H8R]

Opie, get the book The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt. A classic. It explains in geat detail about what makes a wheel a wheel, and how to build and true a wheel that lasts.


Good luck on your adventure in learning.

 

[Pau11y]

Opie, get the book The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt. A classic. It explains in geat detail about what makes a wheel a wheel, and how to build and true a wheel that lasts.


Good luck on your adventure in learning.

Hey, bring the cat back!

 

[H8R]

Hey, bring the cat back!

I'm sorry? What cat?