[Sandwich]

I just picked up a nice Douglas titanium frameset...

It came with a triple crank. I'm a road newb so I'll be fine with a triple, but if I wanted to run a double, would I have to do anything besides remove the small chainring? I still need to order shifters so that's not a problem yet.

The cranks are 170s and I'm about 5'11" with a 32" inseam. That *should* put me on 172.5s or 175s. Am I likely to notice or care? Should i bother trying to trade?

I think it's safe to assume that everything is 10spd compatible, as the crank is hollowtech2 with the external BB, but is there any reason the Ultegra derailleurs won't be compatible with 10spd if they are 9spd?

Finally, what spread should I go with for a cassette?

 

[Sghost]

Removing the small ring just makes it a triple that is missing the small ring. Shifters will be double, triple, or compatible with both.

Cranks will be fine.

All that stuff will be fine.

21/23 if your keeping the triple, 23/25 if going to a double.

 

[CBJ]

I am 6' 1" and with 172.5 crank arms. Longer crank arms will get you legs close to your chest. I know with my setup if I am in the drop I would not want longer crank arms. Road bike setup is different from mountain bikes.

 

[Sandwich]

super duper, poopers. this thing is light.

 

[JRogers]

Don't see any reason why 9 speed derailleurs would create any issues for your most likely options; the size of the spread is the same form 9 to 10 speed. It may depend on what shifters you get, though. I think 7900 shifters have a different pull ratio than older 10sp models. Not sure about other new 10sp stuff at other levels, so I'd double check to make sure when you know what shifters you want.

As far as gearing, I'd go 25T with a triple. The difference from 23 is not much, but it'll give you a little extra on the low end. When I had a triple and lived in the northeast (which usually entails shorter climbs, sometimes steep), I basically used the inner ring as a bailout gear and tried to stay in the upper two unless I was really hurting. If you decide to ditch the inner ring at some point, a 23T might be a bit stiff. All depends on your fitness, though.

For crank length, as was said, just stick with what you've got. I highly doubt you will notice a difference of 2.5 or 5mm, even though you "should" be on 172.5s or 175s.

 

[James]

I am 6' 1" and with 172.5 crank arms. Longer crank arms will get you legs close to your chest. I know with my setup if I am in the drop I would not want longer crank arms. Road bike setup is different from mountain bikes.

2.5mm will effect you that much?

 

[Sandwich]

Don't see any reason why 9 speed derailleurs would create any issues for your most likely options; the size of the spread is the same form 9 to 10 speed. It may depend on what shifters you get, though. I think 7900 shifters have a different pull ratio than older 10sp models. Not sure about other new 10sp stuff at other levels, so I'd double check to make sure when you know what shifters you want.

As far as gearing, I'd go 25T with a triple. The difference from 23 is not much, but it'll give you a little extra on the low end. When I had a triple and lived in the northeast (which usually entails shorter climbs, sometimes steep), I basically used the inner ring as a bailout gear and tried to stay in the upper two unless I was really hurting. If you decide to ditch the inner ring at some point, a 23T might be a bit stiff. All depends on your fitness, though.

For crank length, as was said, just stick with what you've got. I highly doubt you will notice a difference of 2.5 or 5mm, even though you "should" be on 172.5s or 175s.

I could care less about 9 or 10speeds in the back, especially with a triple up front, but everything is 10 speed now so I may as well go with what's current.

I'll stick with the cranks, no reason to change them out. I was just curious whether I should be concerned or not since I typically run 175s for trail and the 165s on my DH bike feel very odd.

I'll have to take a photo tonight. I've got very little money invested in it and the thing is pretty rad already. Anybody know where I can get decent shifters for under $200? Those are surprisingly expensive.

 

[Heisenberg]

I could care less about 9 or 10speeds in the back, especially with a triple up front, but everything is 10 speed now so I may as well go with what's current.

I'll stick with the cranks, no reason to change them out. I was just curious whether I should be concerned or not since I typically run 175s for trail and the 165s on my DH bike feel very odd.

I'll have to take a photo tonight. I've got very little money invested in it and the thing is pretty rad already. Anybody know where I can get decent shifters for under $200? Those are surprisingly expensive.

Personally, I'd run a compact double (50/34) with something like an 11-27 or 12-27. Low enough gearing to spin mellow up the steepest hills, but without the chainline, weight, and gearing hassles of a triple - plus less granny steeze.

I think I have some Ultegra 6600 10sp shifters in good shape lying around I was saving for a rain bike that I'd sell for cheap. I even have a beatup Truvativ Rouleur compact crankset I'd throw in the box.

 

[SuspectDevice]

2.5mm will effect you that much?

It is a significant difference in terms of knee clearance.

I run 170's on all my road bikes. With my bad back I need lots of drop. I can't get enough forward hip rotation otherwise.
I can run 175's on my CX bike, no problem.

Crank length is not very important in terms of power production.
Ask Cavendish.

 

[moff_quigley]

Personally, I'd run a compact double (50/34) with something like an 11-27 or 12-27. Low enough gearing to spin mellow up the steepest hills, but without the chainline, weight, and gearing hassles of a triple - plus less granny steeze.

 

[Sandwich]

Personally, I'd run a compact double (50/34) with something like an 11-27 or 12-27. Low enough gearing to spin mellow up the steepest hills, but without the chainline, weight, and gearing hassles of a triple - plus less granny steeze.

That would be cool if I didn't already own a triple crankset. I certainly wouldn't mind trading with somebody if they have a compact double ultegra crankset lightly used in size 172.5 for my 170mm/triple. I don't care enough to sell one and buy the other....so what are the chances of anybody actually wanting to do that trade?

I think I have some Ultegra 6600 10sp shifters in good shape lying around I was saving for a rain bike that I'd sell for cheap. I even have a beatup Truvativ Rouleur compact crankset I'd throw in the box.

PM me with a price. I'd love to go used since the rest of the bike is pretty cheap so far, no reason to buy brandy new shifterz for it.

 

[Heisenberg]

That would be cool if I didn't already own a triple crankset. I certainly wouldn't mind trading with somebody if they have a compact double ultegra crankset lightly used in size 172.5 for my 170mm/triple. I don't care enough to sell one and buy the other....so what are the chances of anybody actually wanting to do that trade?



PM me with a price. I'd love to go used since the rest of the bike is pretty cheap so far, no reason to buy brandy new shifterz for it.

Will do later on... the cranks are 172.5s btw.

 

[Sandwich]

i got lernt. Not bad for ~$850? Needs bar tape. Any tips on brake lever/handybar positioning?

 

[moff_quigley]

I'll say this before anyone else does. Flip that stem.

 

[James]

I'll say this before anyone else does. Flip that stem.

And lose the MTB pedals...

 

[Sandwich]

I'll say this before anyone else does. Flip that stem.

OK...that's the way it came when I bought it. Didn't think much of it, but I did feel a little upright on my first ride.

And lose the MTB pedals...

on the list...funds are tight right now so I'll eventually get something right...but I just bought my first new pair of SPD MTB shoes in like 13 years last year....

 

[Sandwich]

any suggestions on pedals? I know nothing. I really like my low-end times for MTB. Anything similar for road, or are they all kind of the same?

 

[moff_quigley]

any suggestions on pedals? I know nothing. I really like my low-end times for MTB. Anything similar for road, or are they all kind of the same?

I bought some nashbar branded road pedals. Z11 or something like that. I clip in, I clip out. Seem to work just fine. I could really tell the difference between using these and real road shoes vs. the mtb pedals and shoes. My bro-in-law has a set of nashbar's that have plastic bodies like Times and he likes them a lot too.

 

[SuspectDevice]

Don't waste your money buying new pedals.
If mtb pedals on the road are good enough for people like Todd Wells and Cadel Evans(when he was a mtb racer) they are good enough for you.

Your saddle is pointed down.
It should be level.
To me a pointed down saddle is the sign of a saddle that is too high and too far forward.

 

[Sandwich]

Don't waste your money buying new pedals.
If mtb pedals on the road are good enough for people like Todd Wells and Cadel Evans(when he was a mtb racer) they are good enough for you.

Your saddle is pointed down.
It should be level.
To me a pointed down saddle is the sign of a saddle that is too high and too far forward.

hmmm...i think the saddle is pretty level, but I'll take another look at it. Leg extension feels pretty good, I thought. Not sure where I set the saddle at fore/aft-wise, but I think it's in the middle.

Honestly, the only reason I'm considering new pedals is that A) I really like the time pedals, and B) I only have one pair of them. I'd like to keep them on the MTB instead of having to move them back and forth every time. I have like 8 pairs of spuds and one pair of CB pedals, but I like the times so much more....otherwise I'd just throw the 535s on the roady and the ritcheys or whatever on the Fuel.

 

[James]

any suggestions on pedals? I know nothing. I really like my low-end times for MTB. Anything similar for road, or are they all kind of the same?

Bah, I'm 90% kidding. Ride what you're comfortable with I say.