[Old_Dude]

This relates to restoring my '87 Diamondback Ascent EX . . .

I got the new wheel home & it didn't fit - I have a 125mm opening between the dropouts and my new wheel is fitted for 135. The LBS guru said I can bend each dropout out 5mm to fit the new wheel (since my bike is all steel).

Is it okay to bend my frame out by 5mm in each direction at the dropouts? I realize I should try to bend the bike the same amount on either side. I guess this will work - anyone think this is a bad idea? If so, why?

Thanks,

OD

 

[bomberz1qr20]

Originally posted by Old_Dude
This relates to restoring my '87 Diamondback Ascent EX . . .

I got the new wheel home & it didn't fit - I have a 125mm opening between the dropouts and my new wheel is fitted for 135. The LBS guru said I can bend each dropout out 5mm to fit the new wheel (since my bike is all steel).

Is it okay to bend my frame out by 5mm in each direction at the dropouts? I realize I should try to bend the bike the same amount on either side. I guess this will work - anyone think this is a bad idea? If so, why?

Thanks,

OD

Simple answer:
Steel yes, aluminium no.

 

[Brian HCM#1]

Make sure the frame is properly aligned when done

 

[Old_Dude]

Thanks for the responses.

Make sure the frame is properly aligned when done

I haven't tried this, but my plan is to rest the left dropout on the floor and step on it with my foot while I tug up on the right dropout, then flip the frame over & do the same with the other side.

I created a "fairly accurate" method of alignment check using two 1" box aluminum rails - one taped on either side of the down & seat tubes - from this I can get equal length measurements. Well, sort of.

I'd bet virtually all bikes have some sort of alignment deviation anyway - just a guiness, er, I mean guess. (see what I've got on my mind this morning)

 

[riderx]

OD - You could just spread the frame enough to drop the wheel in, but not actually make it permanently wider. We are only talking about 1 cm (10mm). I've done it before, not that hard. If you want to do the permanent thing, take it to a frame builder who has the right tools to do it. Or, go to Home Depot and get a long piece of threaded rod the size of an axle. Spin some nuts on them 125mm apart. Place in frame and turn each nut a full turn until you get the frame where you want it - you'll actualy have to go beyond 135mm. Cheap, even spread and a bit smoother than tweaking with the foot on the floor method.

 

[Old_Dude]

. . . just spread the frame enough to drop the wheel in . . .

Great advice - I'll try it - THANKS!

 

[Yossarian]

Originally posted by riderx
OD - You could just spread the frame enough to drop the wheel in, but not actually make it permanently wider. We are only talking about 1 cm (10mm). I've done it before, not that hard. If you want to do the permanent thing, take it to a frame builder who has the right tools to do it. Or, go to Home Depot and get a long piece of threaded rod the size of an axle. Spin some nuts on them 125mm apart. Place in frame and turn each nut a full turn until you get the frame where you want it - you'll actualy have to go beyond 135mm. Cheap, even spread and a bit smoother than tweaking with the foot on the floor method.

Excellent idea, Riderx.

 

[Brian HCM#1]

Originally posted by riderx
OD - You could just spread the frame enough to drop the wheel in, but not actually make it permanently wider. We are only talking about 1 cm (10mm). I've done it before, not that hard. If you want to do the permanent thing, take it to a frame builder who has the right tools to do it. Or, go to Home Depot and get a long piece of threaded rod the size of an axle. Spin some nuts on them 125mm apart. Place in frame and turn each nut a full turn until you get the frame where you want it - you'll actualy have to go beyond 135mm. Cheap, even spread and a bit smoother than tweaking with the foot on the floor method.

Good call

 

[Shibby]

You've probably already done your frame-spreading, but I'd just like to add that riderx's points are all good, valid ones. The only thing that I would add is this:

Your LBS will have a tool that consists of two handles that slip into the dropouts and clamp down, with a rod going toward the other dropout. These threaded rods will have big ol' nuts on em that you can thread toward the center of the frame, and using the levers attached to each side, align the dropouts so they are straight once again. Awful explanation; sorry! Here's the pic from the Park Tool site...

That's what we use to align frames that we had to spread (using the axle method, I might add). Just remember to use spikey (locking) washers between the nut and the frame... otherwise the axle will move on ya.

Originally posted by riderx
OD - You could just spread the frame enough to drop the wheel in, but not actually make it permanently wider. We are only talking about 1 cm (10mm). I've done it before, not that hard. If you want to do the permanent thing, take it to a frame builder who has the right tools to do it. Or, go to Home Depot and get a long piece of threaded rod the size of an axle. Spin some nuts on them 125mm apart. Place in frame and turn each nut a full turn until you get the frame where you want it - you'll actualy have to go beyond 135mm. Cheap, even spread and a bit smoother than tweaking with the foot on the floor method.

 

[shocktower]

That`s dem

 

[Old_Dude]

Thanks again - great info - I know this sounds cheap, but I was thinking about making some home-made frame alignment tool - doesn't sound either very complicated, or very expensive - get two long threaded rods that fit the dropout opening, put large nuts on them & viola, there's your alignment tool. Yeah, I'm sure the margin of error would be greater than a "real" tool, but, for about $4, and as long as the rods didn't bend, I could get something that's better than trying to eyball it. Anyone ever created a tool like this?

 

[Shibby]

no, but now you got me thinkin' about it