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Marzocchi Fork Service

Serial Midget

Al Bundy
Jun 25, 2002
13,053
1,896
Fort of Rio Grande
OK. My recent bike build went very smooth so now I have decided to service my fork. One of the guys I know who knows things... says my fork has dampening on the down stroke - rebound seems fine. Probably time for new oil.

This is a 2001 X-Fly 100 xc fork - does anyone have any tips to offer before I fug it up all on my own???

It's an air oil.

Thank yas. :) :D :)
 

bomberz1qr20

Turbo Monkey
Nov 19, 2001
1,007
0
Originally posted by Serial Midget
One of the guys I know who knows things... says my fork has dampening on the down stroke - rebound seems fine. Probably time for new oil.
Um...

Compression dampening is ok. Too much means the oil is fugged up, or it's too heavy. (I think those forks take 7.5 wt)

If the oil is dirty, or the fork has seen much use, like 100 hours or more, rebuild it.

Get new top seals/wipers, you'll need em. All the info to service that fork should be download-able on the Marz web site.

Not too tough a job, just have plenty of clean rags handy, fork oil gets EVERYWHERE the first time.

:D
 

Serial Midget

Al Bundy
Jun 25, 2002
13,053
1,896
Fort of Rio Grande
DOH! I meant NO compression damping... :dead:

Anyhow oly bounched it around and he thought the damping was minimal at best. ???

Originally posted by bomberz1qr20
Um...

Compression dampening is ok. Too much means the oil is fugged up, or it's too heavy. (I think those forks take 7.5 wt)

:D
 

Rev.Chuck

Monkey
Apr 11, 2003
117
0
Raleigh, NC
Please, damping, dampening is when you sprinkle water on it.
Tha fork is pretty simple. If it is not leaking anywhere, just change the oil. First let all the air out, remove the caps, turn it upside down over a BIG pan and then pump it a couple of times to get the oil out of the damper. If it has not been serviced in a long time, fill it up past the damper and cycle the fork a bunch and then dump it out again to help clean it out. You can do this a couple of times if you get motorcycle fork oil as it is way cheaper than bike oil. Fill it up pump the fork to fill the damper, check and adjust oil height, caps on, pump it up and ride.
 

Serial Midget

Al Bundy
Jun 25, 2002
13,053
1,896
Fort of Rio Grande
So I changed the oil. No big deal but I was surprised by how dirty the oil was. Battleship gray all the way with lots of suspended particles… this didn’t seem right to me but I don’t know – any thoughts?

I also noted that the right leg was 30cc short – I have never seen any evidence of oil leakage and the fork has never lost any air pressure.

This fork has around 120 hours on it. I don’t really ride in dusty conditions but I often ride in wet and muddy conditions. Should I replace the dust seal and pilot bushing with so few hours?

Thanks and stuff.
 

Chris2fur

Chimp
Apr 4, 2003
17
0
Tucson, Arizona
Probably not. I doubt most of the discoloration was due to outside elements. I've heard that because Marzocchi stays away from plastic, there may be a little more metal-to-metal wear, which may explain the gray color. Probably build up less frequently as it breaks in. As for the bushings, unless you have perceptible play (feel movement with your hand where the stanchions enter the lowers while holding the front brake on and rocking the bike forward and back), they are OK. Seals are probably still OK (inner oil seals) unless you notice oil build up on the stanchions. If the dust seal/wipers are not showing signs of deterioration and are pushing up a definitive ring of dust, they are probably OK. I would recommend lubing the stanchions with lube of your choice before each ride (i.e."Slick Honey," silicone spray lube, etc.) to extend the life of the wipers and reduce stiction. Check out the Enduro seal reviews when you do need replacements. Also, color pictorial instructions for oil/seal change for '01 X-Fly 80 are posted on my website ("Instructions" page).

http://www.realworldcycling.com/
 

Serial Midget

Al Bundy
Jun 25, 2002
13,053
1,896
Fort of Rio Grande
Thanks Chris2fur. I have lubed my stanchions with poly tech silicone after every ride from day one. No oil build up on the stanchions and a definate dust ring so I think I am good to go.

I have though about experiementing with oil weight - is this just wasting my time on an air/oil fork?

I downloaded the PDF file for my X-Fly 100 from the Marzochhi web site but I will browse your site anyway. :)

Now all I need is a valve core. :thumb:
 

ummbikes

Don't mess with the Santas
Apr 16, 2002
1,794
0
Napavine, Warshington
Edward-

I have an old RS Judy SL you should try out just to see what it like to have suspension that, well suspends you. Air forks are no good going down a hill at all. I had a SID for a while that by all accounts was a nice fork. I replaced with a Judy, which by all accounts is a pile of feces. The Judy was much better. It had small bump complience, big hit stability and was not prone to dumping all it's travel and pitching me over the bars like the SID. I would try something else. Heck a Marz. EXR would be great for you. It's Marz. burly XC fork which is perfect for you, as you ride a lot of DH trails for a XC rider.

Peace

Rob
 

Serial Midget

Al Bundy
Jun 25, 2002
13,053
1,896
Fort of Rio Grande
Originally posted by ummbikes
...burly XC fork which is perfect for you, as you ride a lot of DH trails for a XC rider.
Hush... ;)

When I rode with damon and the other's last Friday I pumped up the air to 47psi. When I rode with you the last time I was running 27 or 30. I was attempting to get the recommended sag but... well you know how that went. I came off the bike four times in 7 miles for no good reason. Once I was up to 47 things improved greatly.

If I were to go coil would I still be able to wear spandex? Being super sexy and showing my stuff is very imortant to me... :D :D :D

and... I want that frame. :monkey:
 

Chris2fur

Chimp
Apr 4, 2003
17
0
Tucson, Arizona
Maybe I missed it but I don't remember you mentioning your weight. I know that some big dudes sometimes up the 7.5 wt to 10 wt., but most people are fine with the 7.5. One interesting thing about the oil/air Marzocchis is the different ride characteristics obtained by changing the oil levels. In addition to changing air pressure, you can adjust air volume. Dropping the oil level 10mm increases the air volume. If I understand it correctly, a greater air volume will allow more travel before "ramping up." Of course, that can be taken too far, but within a certain range, the oil can be raised or lowered to affect the ride quality. Anyway, it is a ride tuning option that you have. If you want some more definitive info before you try, Larry at mountainhighcyclery.com could probably help.

-Chris
 

bomberz1qr20

Turbo Monkey
Nov 19, 2001
1,007
0
Originally posted by Chris2fur
Maybe I missed it but I don't remember you mentioning your weight. I know that some big dudes sometimes up the 7.5 wt to 10 wt., but most people are fine with the 7.5. One interesting thing about the oil/air Marzocchis is the different ride characteristics obtained by changing the oil levels. In addition to changing air pressure, you can adjust air volume. Dropping the oil level 10mm increases the air volume. If I understand it correctly, a greater air volume will allow more travel before "ramping up." Of course, that can be taken too far, but within a certain range, the oil can be raised or lowered to affect the ride quality. Anyway, it is a ride tuning option that you have. If you want some more definitive info before you try, Larry at mountainhighcyclery.com could probably help.

-Chris
Correct about the weight thing, i am around 205-210 lbs, and I run 10 wt, (usually). Helps with bottoming, and slows the overall compression a bit.

The air thing, to add to it, the air above the oil volume acts like an additional spring. More oil = less air, which makes a smaller, more progressive air spring above the oil. Less oil = more air, which has a softer, more linear feeling air spring above the oil.

So in short, more oil volume helps to resist bottoming by a) more oil volume through the valves, and b) a firmer feel from less air volume.

Add to all of this; Marzocchi adds air valve top cap to it's Dirt jumper forks, to add a bit of pressure to the air cavity above the oil. Air assist helps firm up the fork for jumping.

I hope his is clear and not redundant, I played late night Monopoly last night and I'm a bit fizzled today.






:rolleyes:
 

bomberz1qr20

Turbo Monkey
Nov 19, 2001
1,007
0
Originally posted by Serial Midget

I know that one stanchion was 30cc below recommendation and was probably the reason the fork felt off in the first place.
Yep, below minimum the damper doesn't have much to work with. It'll be cycling oil foam and air, making a 7.5 wt latte inside the fork.

Ever considered a new coil Z1 on that Giant hardtail? If you're hitting alot of big descents you'll appreciate the extra beef. The 03 I just got is too f***in sweet for words. (cpt for the QR20 Pro, but it doesn't bother me)
 

Serial Midget

Al Bundy
Jun 25, 2002
13,053
1,896
Fort of Rio Grande
Originally posted by bomberz1qr20
Ever considered a new coil Z1 on that Giant hardtail? If you're hitting alot of big descents you'll appreciate the extra beef. The 03 I just got is too f***in sweet for words. (cpt for the QR20 Pro, but it doesn't bother me)
I'll keep that in mind. I mostly ride road and XC but on occaison I'll follow my DH buddies down the less extreme descents. :eek:

This fork weighs 3.6 LBS and the bike build is at my limit weight wise. I am going build DH specific hardtail on a budget. I will look for a dual coil when I do but I probably won't buy new... If I don't stick to my budget I'll have to get a job. :dead: :dead: :dead:
 

pnj

Turbo Monkey till the fat lady sings
Aug 14, 2002
4,696
40
seattle
Originally posted by Serial Midget
Thanks Chris2fur. I have lubed my stanchions with poly tech silicone after every ride from day one. No oil build up on the stanchions and a definate dust ring so I think I am good to go.

what is poly tech silicone and should i be using it on my DJ 2?\
and if so, how do I use it?

:confused:
 

pnj

Turbo Monkey till the fat lady sings
Aug 14, 2002
4,696
40
seattle
Originally posted by Serial Midget
It 's just a form of spray lubricant - probably not any better than what you use... just what I had lying around.
I don't use anything.....

I'm not new to working on bikes but I am new to forks that go in and out.

you spray this on your fork uppers after every ride? I didn't see anything about it in the manual.
 

Chris2fur

Chimp
Apr 4, 2003
17
0
Tucson, Arizona
Most manufacturer's have their special "pet" lubes they recommend. Marzocchi happens to recommend silicone spray lube for their stanchions. I pick up mine at industrial supply houses (Grainger, etc.) when I'm doing my real job. I usually pay about $8.00, but I was in a motorcycle shop today getting some fork oil and saw some Suzuki brand silicone spray lube for $5.95. That's about the cheapest I've seen.
 

pnj

Turbo Monkey till the fat lady sings
Aug 14, 2002
4,696
40
seattle
so what do I do, just spray it on the upper part of the fork(s)?

some for you, some for me.:D
 

Serial Midget

Al Bundy
Jun 25, 2002
13,053
1,896
Fort of Rio Grande
Originally posted by pnj
I don't use anything.....

I'm not new to working on bikes but I am new to forks that go in and out.

you spray this on your fork uppers after every ride? I didn't see anything about it in the manual.
You should consider picking up a can - it's cheap insurance. Plus the silicone will keep your dust seals nice and supple... :)
 

Serial Midget

Al Bundy
Jun 25, 2002
13,053
1,896
Fort of Rio Grande
Originally posted by pnj
so what do I do, just spray it on the upper part of the fork(s)?

some for you, some for me.:D
I have squares of absorbant paper towel like stuff that I get from the autoparts store - thick and orange color. I spray the silicone on that and wipe down the stanchions - this helps collect the dust as well.
 

bomberz1qr20

Turbo Monkey
Nov 19, 2001
1,007
0
Originally posted by Serial Midget
I have squares of absorbant paper towel like stuff that I get from the autoparts store - thick and orange color. I spray the silicone on that and wipe down the stanchions - this helps collect the dust as well.
Some silicone spray lubes have really harsh chemical contents, nasty propellants etc. - especially the cheap stuff.

Marzocchi does recommend silicone spray, or "silicone fat spray" as the manual puts it...

:rolleyes:

Get the good stuff, more silicone content and less bs is better. Make sure it says "safe for plastic parts" on the label. I've had some silicone sprays from the auto shop that would soften paint, and smelled like jet fuel. That crap never went near my forks!
 

Chris2fur

Chimp
Apr 4, 2003
17
0
Tucson, Arizona
Yes, good point about the "safe for plastics," bomberz1qr20
. Most of the good ones are, but read the label and be sure. BTW, those Italians: "Silicone fat spray." Sounds like instant cellulite in a can or something.

How do you guys insert the quote from the previous post?
 

Chris2fur

Chimp
Apr 4, 2003
17
0
Tucson, Arizona
Originally posted by bomberz1qr20
In the post you want to quote from, hit the "quote" button....

Who knew!?!

Like this? Cool... I was trying to use the quote button in the vB Code section AFTER I had started my reply. I'm going to blame it on being past my bedtime, OK? :(
 

Ventanarama

Chimp
Aug 2, 2002
27
0
Fort Collins, CO
Originally posted by Serial Midget
So I changed the oil. No big deal but I was surprised by how dirty the oil was. Battleship gray all the way with lots of suspended particles… this didn’t seem right to me but I don’t know – any thoughts?

I also noted that the right leg was 30cc short – I have never seen any evidence of oil leakage and the fork has never lost any air pressure.

This fork has around 120 hours on it. I don’t really ride in dusty conditions but I often ride in wet and muddy conditions. Should I replace the dust seal and pilot bushing with so few hours?

Thanks and stuff.
Couple of things here....No surprise at all that the oil was that dirty, that's absolutely normal for 120hrs of riding. It gets gunked up very quickly when new, during the initial break-in period (10-25hrs). You get lots of metal particles in the oil as metal parts wear into each other. Ideally, you should do an oil change after the first 10-25 hrs to get that stuff out, then longer intervals are o.k. after that.

I can't stress this one enough......ALWAYS check the oil levels in Marzocchi forks when they are new (or better yet, buy from a shop that checks them before selling:) In my experience at least 80% of them are significantly off from the factory. Correct oil levels are critical for proper performance, yet Marzocchi continues to ignore this problem even though they've been aware of it for years. The factory in Italy needs to pull their head out and start getting this right, it's truly ridiculous. And to add insult to injury they don't even publish the proper oil levels in the manuals any more. Great forks but the tech info available to both dealers and consumers is getting to be really pathetic.

Larry Mettler
http://www.mtnhighcyclery.com
 

pnj

Turbo Monkey till the fat lady sings
Aug 14, 2002
4,696
40
seattle
Originally posted by Ventanarama
And to add insult to injury they don't even publish the proper oil levels in the manuals any more. Great forks but the tech info available to both dealers and consumers is getting to be really pathetic.

Larry Mettler
http://www.mtnhighcyclery.com

what are the proper levels? I'm riding a DJ 2 fork, where should the oil level be?

thanks!