Need Help!!!!
- Thread starter stosh
- Start date
center the caliper by eye to make sure you don't have free running drag.
to adjust the front der start off by making sure it's at the right height. when in the middle rring positon the top of the cage should be 3mm above the big ring.
next step is to adjust your cable tension. start off with the shifter in the tiny ring, snug up the pinch bolt and move on to limits.
set the H and L limits such that the final click on our front shifter doesn't move the cage more than 1 mm past the outside of your big ring, and when in the largest rear cog and the granny you have no chain rub.
to eliminate chain rup in the 44/12 or whatever use the barrel adjuster to move out the cage slightly
to adjust the front der start off by making sure it's at the right height. when in the middle rring positon the top of the cage should be 3mm above the big ring.
next step is to adjust your cable tension. start off with the shifter in the tiny ring, snug up the pinch bolt and move on to limits.
set the H and L limits such that the final click on our front shifter doesn't move the cage more than 1 mm past the outside of your big ring, and when in the largest rear cog and the granny you have no chain rub.
to eliminate chain rup in the 44/12 or whatever use the barrel adjuster to move out the cage slightly
Stosh -
To get Hayes to stop rubbing:
1 - loosen the bolts that hold the caliper to the adapter. Leave the bolts holding the adapter to the fork/frame TIGHT.
2 - squeeze the brake lever as tight as you can
3 - tighten the bolts that hold the caliper to the adapter.
4 - let go of the brake lever.
5 - that should get 'em as well centered as they're gonna get.
For the F.D. -
C.B's advice is pretty good; I like to set the height by getting it JUST high enough that when you swing the derailleur all the way out, the outer plate won't catch on the teeth of the big ring. The lower the derailleur is, the better it shifts, usually.
As for the limit screws, the screw labeled "H" deals with your big ring, and how far past the big ring the der. can go; tighten that screw down enough that you can still shift into that ring but you won't risk over-shifting and throwing the chain off.
The screw labeled "L" obviously does the little ring; tighten just enough that you can still get into that gear.
It's easiest to adjust a limit screw when the derailleur is NOT shifted into the gear that the particular limit screw adjusts - i.e. don't try to turn the H limit screw when you're shifted into the big ring.
Also, make sure your side-to-side alignment is correct, obviously. Make sure that the cage is parallel to the chain and not pointed at the disc caliper or something else dumb.
To get Hayes to stop rubbing:
1 - loosen the bolts that hold the caliper to the adapter. Leave the bolts holding the adapter to the fork/frame TIGHT.
2 - squeeze the brake lever as tight as you can
3 - tighten the bolts that hold the caliper to the adapter.
4 - let go of the brake lever.
5 - that should get 'em as well centered as they're gonna get.
For the F.D. -
C.B's advice is pretty good; I like to set the height by getting it JUST high enough that when you swing the derailleur all the way out, the outer plate won't catch on the teeth of the big ring. The lower the derailleur is, the better it shifts, usually.
As for the limit screws, the screw labeled "H" deals with your big ring, and how far past the big ring the der. can go; tighten that screw down enough that you can still shift into that ring but you won't risk over-shifting and throwing the chain off.
The screw labeled "L" obviously does the little ring; tighten just enough that you can still get into that gear.
It's easiest to adjust a limit screw when the derailleur is NOT shifted into the gear that the particular limit screw adjusts - i.e. don't try to turn the H limit screw when you're shifted into the big ring.
Also, make sure your side-to-side alignment is correct, obviously. Make sure that the cage is parallel to the chain and not pointed at the disc caliper or something else dumb.
I'm with Burntout on the caliper centering. I always try the looosen bolts/squeeze/tighten bolts thing first in the shop, but 9 times out of 10 I have to move on to the adjust by hand and eyeball method to get them to stop rubbing. It helps to hold something white on the other side of pad slot when looking for drag. It's much easier to see the clearance or lack thereof between the pads and rotor this way.
my shop is really good at stuff like that.
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I would have said the front derraileur goes parallel to the outer chainring and rises a good 4 mm above it when swinging and the hayes you have to eye to the center and bend the rotors straight. OF course you should make you bike shop do that for you...or risk making an expensive mistake.