[Viv92]

It looks like I've ovalised the bottom of the HT on my Izimu (2007, just before they went 1.5")

Apparently you can put a deep cup headset in to fix the problem? Only thing with this, is the headtube on the morewood is tapered internally, so there is only another 4-5mm above where the current headset cup sits that could hold a deeper set headset. Would this be enough room to fix the issue or do I need to get the headtube fixed?

Cheers.

 

[chillindrdude]

you can't repair an ovalized headtube. you can possibly work around it with a deep cup headset, ie. chris king steelset. yes, i would face and ream the headtube to accept the deeper cup.

but you are putting off the inevitable, it's time for a new frame.

 

[Viv92]

In Australia we can get them repaired, there is a proper frame fixer dude. New frame would be OK, but I don't have the cash.

Also how would facing and reaming the headtube allow it to accept the deeper cup?

 

[sonnythe]

they may be able to help. http://www.reset-racing.de/

 

[buckoW]

In 1998 or so, I got Chris King to make a slightly larger diameter headset to repair an ovalized Yeti DH6. I think it was .004" bigger but I can't remember exactly. It fixed the problem of the ovalized headtube but the pull shocks still lost all their oil after about 5 minutes from being rebuilt. I have no idea if they still do that for people. Might be worth a phone call.

 

[norbar]

they may be able to help. http://www.reset-racing.de/

I'm not sure getting a used izimu wouldn't be a cheaper idea than the most expensive headsets know to man

 

[jamesdc]

Also try retaining loctite. I have used it may times to fix ovalized headtubes. I use 609 retaining compound for headtubes that are slightly ovalized or in combination with a deep cup headset if the frame is poor shape. 630 retaining compound works well if your frame is fairly ovalized. This fix will not work if your frame is ovalised to the point that you can move the headset cup while its inserted into the frame.

 

[Bicyclist]

I rode a frame with an ovalized headtube for a long time by epoxying in a standard headset...sketchy? Probably, but it got me by.

 

[Slater]

Thin aluminum foil.
One wrap around the headset and press it in.
Seriously.

 

[w00dy]

Thin aluminum foil.
One wrap around the headset and press it in.
Seriously.

Or a beer can.

Loctite needs a source of iron to harden properly. If you go that route it'd be best to use a hardening solution. I forget the proper name of it.

I've heard of the King oversize cups. That would be the best route.

 

[davep]

Iron??? really?


AFAIK, they are anerobic curing acrylates...

 

[DirtyMike]

In Australia we can get them repaired, there is a proper frame fixer dude. New frame would be OK, but I don't have the cash.

Also how would facing and reaming the headtube allow it to accept the deeper cup?

When doing this, you use a different reamer bit, or an extender. What it does is giv eyou even more of a perfection tube for the cups to go into. And, depending on how far down the ovalazation goes, you can also effectivly shorten your HT length a little at a time to reduce the ovalized part as much as possible. Basically, the reaming part prepares the frame for the deep cup, its the first part in keeping the frame you have and using the deep cup headset.

Or a beer can.

Loctite needs a source of iron to harden properly. If you go that route it'd be best to use a hardening solution. I forget the proper name of it.

I've heard of the King oversize cups. That would be the best route.

There is over 400 types of loctite, not all needs iron to work properly. I have a really cool book in my tool box that lists all the different applciations, heat ranges, how to use, what to use on, ETC ETC...... I have one of the loctite products in my bix that runs about 64 dollars an ounce.... litterally takes about 45 seconds to cure on alloy bolts. It was designed for ford carbuerator update jobs.... Its also non removable....


A general sleeve retainer would be what I would use, but if using a steelset, andproperly reaming for the deep insertion......... there will be no need.

 

[Straya]

Send it to grip.

 

[Viv92]

Send it to grip.

Yeah, it turns out grip is way cheaper than I thought so I'll probably just do that.

 

[Straya]

Yeah, it turns out grip is way cheaper than I thought so I'll probably just do that.

Thats funny, I just said that to channel a bit of Farkin not as a serious suggestion, glad its gonna work out though.

 

[Udi]

I'm curious, what exactly is wrong with the frame - who diagnosed the headtube as ovalised, and are there any symptoms to support that and/or drive you to do something about it?

If it's not too bad, I'd suggest a slightly deeper cup headset (so you're using the little extra depth you have available at least), and steel will be better, so shop cheap.

Loctite bearing retainer works wonders in these situations too, as unlike the threadlocking compounds, it is designed to fill more space more effectively. I'd leave for 48hrs to cure after installing the headset, make sure all surfaces are cleaned with alcohol and free of oil/grease first. 609 is a good bet, but browse the loctite website if you want to learn more.

Anyway, just a suggestion if you wanted a cheap way out, which will probably work fine unless it's cracked or creaking a tonne.

 

[DirtyMike]

I'm curious, what exactly is wrong with the frame - who diagnosed the headtube as ovalised, and are there any symptoms to support that and/or drive you to do something about it?

If it's not too bad, I'd suggest a slightly deeper cup headset (so you're using the little extra depth you have available at least), and steel will be better, so shop cheap.

Loctite bearing retainer works wonders in these situations too, as unlike the threadlocking compounds, it is designed to fill more space more effectively. I'd leave for 48hrs to cure after installing the headset, make sure all surfaces are cleaned with alcohol and free of oil/grease first. 609 is a good bet, but browse the loctite website if you want to learn more.

Anyway, just a suggestion if you wanted a cheap way out, which will probably work fine unless it's cracked or creaking a tonne.

We did one with the bearing retainer once, it was poretty bad, so bad the original cup would actually fall out of the bike without the fork installed...... It really did work great, we ended up leaving the press on overnight as well to hold everything in place while it cured.