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Pike service kit 200hr or full kit?

Discussion in 'The Shop' started by 6thElement, Mar 21, 2017.

  1. 6thElement

    6thElement Turbo Monkey

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    I need to service the pike on my and my wifes trail bikes.

    From checking online RS now seems to offer a basic kit which is just seals, 200 hour annual kit or a full service kit.

    Full service kit can be had cheaper than the annual 200hr one?? Am I better off with the full service kits?
     

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  2. Jm_

    Jm_ Turbo Monkey

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    I had the full service kit, lots of crap in there I never used. Lots of stuff it made no sense to replace because it wasn't really a wear item. Critical for me was the rebound head seal and a few other seals.
     
  3. 6thElement

    6thElement Turbo Monkey

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    Went for a full kit and a 200hr, one of the forks has another 12+ months of ride time on it with only seal changes in that period. Mine has about 330 hours in the last year, so only slightly over the 200 hour annual interval..oops.
     
  4. 6thElement

    6thElement Turbo Monkey

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    After fitting the 200hr kit to my Pike and using the full kit on my wifes, the cheaper full kit contains everything in the 200hr plus the parts to fully service the charger damper. It just requires you to fit a couple of fiddly seals into the air seal head compared to the 200hr which comes with the seals already in there.

    Getting the small retaining clip back into the top of the damper side = kill list.

    I can definitely recommend these too:
    http://www.lunarbikes.com/tools.htm
     
    #4 -   Mar 29, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2017
  5. Westy

    Westy the teste

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    A 6pt socket can be had for a fraction of the price and let's you use a torque wrench if you are a hammer mechanic.
     
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  6. 6thElement

    6thElement Turbo Monkey

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    I've always used sockets before, but in distracted moments I've chewed up the edges of the topcaps due to the beveled socket edge. While hunting to pick up a 30mm socket for my tool collection I found these.
     
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  7. canadmos

    canadmos Mater Slayer

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    Can you get one in purple drank colour for that price though?
     
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  8. Westy

    Westy the teste

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    I look for reasons to use my belt sander. Can see the point for those who don't like to turn things into dust.
     
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  9. Nick

    Nick My name is Nick

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    behind you, don't wait up.
    I haven't torn into my Pike yet, but the old Boxxer was a dream to work on and I buttered it frequently.
    Now I have a WC on my dhr too, so I guess I'd better get used to monthly tear downs again.
     
  10. 6thElement

    6thElement Turbo Monkey

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    Having only done oil seal changes on them before the biggest kill list item I found was getting the low speed compression adjuster and retaining clip fully seated. You know you've got it wrong when you put the main adjuster dial back on and it still has some play because the nut can't fully seat because the low speed compression adjuster underneath it is still in the way.

    I had the same on both forks...
     
  11. Racebike

    Racebike Monkey

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    FWIW please go for the big kit one every year/year and a half.

    Other parts can slowly start to go, but you get little warning before the bladder craps out.

    Have had quite a few customers in the shop who only changed the seals in the outers and maybe the new head seal and a Charger top-up. All of a sudden; Boom, bladder fails and the fork turns into a turd.
     
  12. AngryMetalsmith

    AngryMetalsmith Business is good, thanks for asking

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    I just got the full rebuild kit for my Pike and looking at the RockShox PDF manual, it looks like a pain in the ass to change the damper bladder. Did you change yours ?
     
  13. 6thElement

    6thElement Turbo Monkey

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    I did as the fork was purchased mid-2014 and has had plenty of descent time. I don't have a bench vise but managed fine with my bike stand clamp and adjustable wrenches for the larger required sizes.

    I've got a few revisions of the service doc saved, I don't think the latest has the bladder swap revE, so I used an older revC for that part.
    Just make sure you have decent retaining ring pliers.

    edit: Plus a charger damper bleed syringe and the required 3wt oil.
     
    #13 -   Apr 27, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2017
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  14. blindboxx2334

    blindboxx2334 Turbo Monkey

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    its because of the bevels on the inside of the socket. take the socket needed and grind the face that mates to the nut or bolt or whatever and grind it flat to get rid of the bevel on the inside (i use a socket extension to constantly turn the socket and a bench grinder, comes out nice and flat). now put a layer or two of electrical tape on the inside of the socket.

    keep constant downward pressure on the socket when loosening/tightening. the flats aren't super tall, so the constant pressure helps.

    im able to do this and not leave any marks/gouges on my top caps. i can also go to any local autozone/o'rileys and pick up whatever socket i need for 5-8 bucks, 10 minutes of modification and bam, just made myself a sweet ass tool. no need for those pricey wrenches (would be sweet if you wrench professionally), or the shipping time.

    YMMV.

    edit: now that i take a second look at those lunar wrenches, that is a good price. most of the ones ive seen are $$$$.
     
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