[fighterkyle]

i just bought a used M6 from a guy and the rear rim was a bit banged up, so he gave me a new Mavic 823 rim to go with it. I'm just learning how to really work on my bike (changing parts, greasing pivots, changing brake pads, tuneing derailurs, etc..) i'm wanting to put the new rim on myself. is it something that is easy? I assume it's just taking the spoke wrench and unscrewing the spokes and re-screwing them back in the new rim. Or is it something i should take to the bike shop, there are still a few things on my bike i wont touch(fork service, brake bleed, shock service). The threads have been pretty useful thus far.

thanks guys.

 

[daisycutter]

Take it to a bike shop. If the rim is bent I bet some spokes are as well.

 

[fighterkyle]

The rim isn't bent, its pretty true. But it does have about 3 dents and a ton of scratches, i'm planning to keep using it the rest of the winter and spring, but when race season starts i'm gonna want to put the new one on.

 

[dhrookie]

You do not want an 823 to be your first build. Get in good at your LBS and watch the mechanic build it and ask lots of questions. Oh and bring a six pack of good beer too, it'll help trust me.

 

[fighterkyle]

Thats kinda what I was thinking. Hey it's a good excuse for me to hang out at the bike shop i guess. Thanks guys

 

[mtg]

My first wheel build was an 823 and it turned out plenty strong. With some attention to detail, patience, motivation and Sheldon Brown's wheel building tutorial, it's definitely possible.

 

[DhDork]

My first wheel build was an 823 and it turned out plenty strong. With some attention to detail, patience, motivation and Sheldon Brown's wheel building tutorial, it's definitely possible.

Yes, but how many wheels had you trued prior to building this wheel? My first set of wheels came after hundreds of trued wheels, let alone just a few personal wheels, and my personal builds were never 100%. It seems he has never really worked on a bike that in-depth before, and I see wheel builds on the same level as brake bleeds and suspension rebuilds, if not at a higher level.

 

[mtg]

Yes, but how many wheels had you trued prior to building this wheel? My first set of wheels came after hundreds of trued wheels, let alone just a few personal wheels, and my personal builds were never 100%. It seems he has never really worked on a bike that in-depth before, and I see wheel builds on the same level as brake bleeds and suspension rebuilds, if not at a higher level.

I'd only trued a couple wheels, but I would consider myself pretty good with tools.

 

[Sonic Reducer]

i just built my first wheel with an 823 on a 150mm hub. getting the dish right is kinda tricky. because the823's spoke holes are blind you cant easily tell where the spoke is at in the nipple while doing the initial tightening of the spokes. you must very carefully count your turns or have a spoke tension gauge or something. i got impatient and just started twisting nipples.
i think i was quoted $50 by a shop to build the wheel, and about 3 hours into ****ing with the roundness vs trueness i was kicking myself for not going that route. worth the money to have a pro do it imho. also it is a rear wheel on a DH bike, a solid build is of high importance there if you want the wheel to last.

 

[Udi]

A good trick I came up with for changing rims is to simply tape the new rim onto the side of the old one (with the holes lined up), and then move the spokes and nipples over in groups of 4 (or whatever you are comfortable with). Saves lacing up which is the most time consuming part of wheel building.

The only thing to be aware of is matching the hole orientation as you tape the rim initially, as most rims have offset holes that must go to a certain side of the hub.

Even if you are not comfortable with truing and tensioning the wheel, it will be cheaper to just get that done at the shop if you lace it yourself. But really, with some help from the sheldon brown article, there's no reason you can't do the whole lot yourself.

 

[EVIL JN]

If your PATIENT, somewhat smart and use sheldon browns tutorial it shouldnt be to much a problem to build a lasting wheel. You do need to buy a special spoke key for the rim eyelets on the ex823 if you havent got one already.

Keep close attention to the lacing pattern it is a real PITA to screw up the lacing on a ex823, i have done it more than once and you just want to throw the wheel right through the nearest window when you find out. It takes a good bit more time to lace those than normal rims.


When i build my wheels i feel that the most important thing when i start to tension the wheel is to be patient and just turn every nipple like 1-2 full turns before going to the next. As important is to try and have all the spokes threaded in to the nipples the same length.
Then i keep doing that until it starts to look somewhat straight. The easiest misstake to make is to start turning nipples a different amount in the beginning since every spoke is fairly loose and you are all excited and start to rush it. That is going to make be almost impossible to fix when the tension increase and then you are going to have to do it all over again.

As for getting the dish right you can put the wheel in the frame and check against the frame for aligniment.

 

[fighterkyle]

If your PATIENT, somewhat smart and use sheldon browns tutorial it shouldnt be to much a problem to build a lasting wheel. You do need to buy a special spoke key for the rim eyelets on the ex823 if you havent got one already.

Keep close attention to the lacing pattern it is a real PITA to screw up the lacing on a ex823, i have done it more than once and you just want to throw the wheel right through the nearest window when you find out. It takes a good bit more time to lace those than normal rims.


When i build my wheels i feel that the most important thing when i start to tension the wheel is to be patient and just turn every nipple like 1-2 full turns before going to the next. As important is to try and have all the spokes threaded in to the nipples the same length.
Then i keep doing that until it starts to look somewhat straight. The easiest misstake to make is to start turning nipples a different amount in the beginning since every spoke is fairly loose and you are all excited and start to rush it. That is going to make be almost impossible to fix when the tension increase and then you are going to have to do it all over again.

As for getting the dish right you can put the wheel in the frame and check against the frame for aligniment.

Truthfully I am neither patient, nor smart. So i'm gonna leave this up to the pros. I'll get there, but i don't need my rear whell exploding on the hill.

 

[Eastern States Cup]

what UDI said

 

[jonKranked]

A good trick I came up with for changing rims is to simply tape the new rim onto the side of the old one (with the holes lined up), and then move the spokes and nipples over in groups of 4 (or whatever you are comfortable with). Saves lacing up which is the most time consuming part of wheel building.

The only thing to be aware of is matching the hole orientation as you tape the rim initially, as most rims have offset holes that must go to a certain side of the hub.

Even if you are not comfortable with truing and tensioning the wheel, it will be cheaper to just get that done at the shop if you lace it yourself. But really, with some help from the sheldon brown article, there's no reason you can't do the whole lot yourself.

I've done this in the past as well with good success, but it relies on:

-same # of spokes
-roughly equal ERD