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RS Monarch rt3 rebuild question

Discussion in 'The Shop' started by Electric_City, Jul 19, 2017.

  1. Electric_City

    Electric_City The orangutans are loose!

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    I recently rebuilt a Monarch rt3 (2015) for a buddy and was disappointed with the packaging from RS. Usually the packages are broken down into specifics. These were, but seem to be missing parts that were needed and including some that I didn't need. For example, the canister- you remove the dust wiper, then the white spacer ring, the seal and the other white spacer ring. But the package had only 1 white spacer ring with it. I had to reuse one old one. Yet there's a green rubber washer (but not similar to the top out bumper) that didn't get used. Was it for the "R" or something?

    Secondly, my tech question.

    In the bottom of the shock you have to fill it up to 350psi. I have the pump and the adapter to do this. If you fill it up to 350 and remove the pump, not the valve adapter, you lose all the air. So you have to remove the adapter WITH the pump. I did this as quickly as possible, but you DO lose air. I'm losing about 100psi. I filled it up to 375 and ended up with 275. Will that 75 psi be noticeable in the (negative chamber)?

    Ps. From the factory its filled with nitrogen, but RS says it's fine to refill with air.

    Thanks, EC
     

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  2. Racebike

    Racebike Monkey

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    The seal kit you have seems to be the old one for the Monarchs that employed a plastic ring with a split in on one side of the smaller quad seal. If that is the case, get the newer kit.

    You need to remove the adapter and pump in one go as you state.
    However where are you getting your pressure reading from after the fact?

    If you reattach your pump/adapter there will be a "cost" in air pressure and that would account for the lower reading.
    Just pump the thing to 350psi, remove the pump and adapter and relax.
     
    #2 -   Sep 8, 2017
  3. Happymtb.fr

    Happymtb.fr Monkey

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    I remember drilling out the adapter a little so that it stops pushing on the valve core before the o-ring is out of function when unthreading the adapter. Don't drill too much or the adapter will not push on the core any longer.
    This might be an issue on some batch of adapter that might or might not have been fixed. I didn't follow that up...