The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
Dante runs a Rocco on his Sunday and loves it - but it was tuned by Marz. out in Cali. They did a variation of the "Sunday Tune" on it and he loves it.
I'm sure PUSH has some type of light compression / light rebound tuning available for DHX shocks that are going on Sundays.
All DHX shocks for 08' will have a less agressive dampening profile than previous years which brings a stock DHX closer to a "Sunday Tune" in performance.
I'm sure PUSH has some type of light compression / light rebound tuning available for DHX shocks that are going on Sundays.
All DHX shocks for 08' will have a less agressive dampening profile than previous years which brings a stock DHX closer to a "Sunday Tune" in performance.
I couldn't fault my 07 DHX. In '08, assuming things go well...you'll be seeing me on a Double Barrell again...only this time I may get to pull a favor of having Ohlins head of motorcycle Dept. do a custom one off tune for me and my specific bike.
Ohlins US doesn't own, tune or setup the DB. It's Cane Creek's. But I was at the BMX track and met the guy. He said he'd do it just to tinker on a Sunday and DB..."heh".
I'm gonna hit him up to go see their dyno...
I'm running a stock Roco TST on my Sunday and it works fine, as good or better than the stock DHX 5.0 did.
I'm sorta tempted to try the Roco WC Air when it's available or a CCDB...
Does the Vivid need a dw tune?
Yes, but Rock Shox was kind enough to offer different tunes from their factory.
For the Iron Horse Sunday you need a Vivid with what they refer to as an "A-Tune".
For the Iron Horse Sunday you need a Vivid with what they refer to as an "A-Tune".
Right - but if you want to buy an after-market non-OEM Vivid that is tuned for the Sunday, ask for the "A-Tune".
But pre-08 Sundays won't fit the Vivid will they?
Hi guys,
I am running a 350 spring on my medium Sunday, I am around 88kg with kit.
Now I want to swith to a Ti-Spring. Should I get a 350 or should i switch to a 400, becouse what I heard Ti-Springs are a little bit softer than the normal springs.
Thanx for your help.
Santa
I am running a 350 spring on my medium Sunday, I am around 88kg with kit.
Now I want to swith to a Ti-Spring. Should I get a 350 or should i switch to a 400, becouse what I heard Ti-Springs are a little bit softer than the normal springs.
Thanx for your help.
Santa
Nah they're exactly the same. Get a 350
Has anyone tried a BOS tuned shock for the sunday?
Unfortunately this is correct, however Iron Horse is now making a new link to work around the size/shape of the shock. This new design will be available on all of the 08' bikes, as well as seperate linkage kits where you can just by the lower link seperately if you want to.
Nobody honestly expects shock makers to care about compatability at this point do they? As if any other bike part maker has any concern for compatability anymore.
LoL... ehh - it's just one of those things. No big deal really - the new 08' Linkage should be available in the next few months.
From what I hear the Vivid is a pretty sweet shock - still haven't had a chance to test one in person but I'm looking forward to it.
Butch - let us know how it goes with getting a one-off CC DB tuned for the Sunday. It's really an amazing shock that has a dampening achitecture unlike any other shock out there, and I'm curious to see how well a tuned one works with the Sunday.
From what I hear the Vivid is a pretty sweet shock - still haven't had a chance to test one in person but I'm looking forward to it.
Butch - let us know how it goes with getting a one-off CC DB tuned for the Sunday. It's really an amazing shock that has a dampening achitecture unlike any other shock out there, and I'm curious to see how well a tuned one works with the Sunday.
Although I have no real plans to run the Vivid (currently deciding between a CCDB and a Roco WC Air), I'd hate to see what that link alone costs.
How are you guys routing your rear brake / derailleur cables through the fork crowns?
I'm running the fork bumpers so they hit the top tube rather than the downtube gusset, as it seems like the top tube is thicker and harder to dent - so far it's been sweet.
But the cables tend to sit right where they can get crushed, is anyone zip tying them hard against the top crown, or perhaps somehow holding them below the bumper?
I'm running the fork bumpers so they hit the top tube rather than the downtube gusset, as it seems like the top tube is thicker and harder to dent - so far it's been sweet.
But the cables tend to sit right where they can get crushed, is anyone zip tying them hard against the top crown, or perhaps somehow holding them below the bumper?
Udi - I run the fork bumpers in the lower position where they contact the downtube gusset, but I always have plenty of room for the cables. I run my forward controls BMX-style with the rear brake on the right and the front brake on the left. I thread my shifter cable and rear brake line through the crowns on the left side of the head tube (everything here is oriented from the rider's perspective) and lightly zip tie the two together so they move as one.How are you guys routing your rear brake / derailleur cables through the fork crowns?
I'm running the fork bumpers so they hit the top tube rather than the downtube gusset, as it seems like the top tube is thicker and harder to dent - so far it's been sweet.
But the cables tend to sit right where they can get crushed, is anyone zip tying them hard against the top crown, or perhaps somehow holding them below the bumper?
I run the bumpers with the lobes (pointy side) facing the frame - if you do this with the bumpers up by the TT there shouldn't be any problems - the lobes should allow for enough space for the cables to rest inside the crowns w/o getting pinched.
Needed a few tweaks, but this is what things looked like after my initial build at the beginning of this season:
I have a pretty random question.. I need to find out what headset was used on the 2005 Iron horse Sunday team. I'm pretty sure that it was using E13 reducer cups and then some FSA zero stack headset. Can anyone confirm which headset was used.
Thanks in advance guys.
Thanks in advance guys.
Thanks for the speedy reply!
SKC -
I put a new brake on and the cables seem to sit out of the way of the bumper this time, so I guess I'll leave it for now. I run the bumpers with the pointy part hitting the frame square as well, just had an issue with the cables sitting in the path of the bumper since they are up higher.
Not sure how often you crash but I'd suggest having the bumpers hitting the toptube, fairly sure it's more resistant to denting. I noticed ska todd (I think? maybe another IH guy) had that setup on his red/white sunday too. Is there an official IH word on this?
I put a new brake on and the cables seem to sit out of the way of the bumper this time, so I guess I'll leave it for now. I run the bumpers with the pointy part hitting the frame square as well, just had an issue with the cables sitting in the path of the bumper since they are up higher.
Not sure how often you crash but I'd suggest having the bumpers hitting the toptube, fairly sure it's more resistant to denting. I noticed ska todd (I think? maybe another IH guy) had that setup on his red/white sunday too. Is there an official IH word on this?
As far as I know, there is no problem with running the bumpers around the downtube gusset. What IS a problem is taking off the fork bumpers and running adhesive bumpers on the frame as fork stops... I stacked it at a race last year and found this out the hard way.
Dented the gusset so badly that I almost punched a hole through it on one side.It would make sense to run them near the top tube due to the strength of that area however...
Heh, toodles will enjoy that advice. He runs the silly adhesive bumpers on the gusset, granted he never crashes either.
But seriously - you can dent the gusset with fork bumpers too, trust me I found out the hard way on my old frame... didn't want to do it on the new one, hence the change. If you don't crash much it's no big deal, but if you do - they can/will dent.
But seriously - you can dent the gusset with fork bumpers too, trust me I found out the hard way on my old frame... didn't want to do it on the new one, hence the change. If you don't crash much it's no big deal, but if you do - they can/will dent.
Why? I run mine like that because $3 stick on rubber pads make more sense than buying more $40 Boxxer bumpers.
Imagine hitting a square piece of sheet metal with a frying pan... No real damage right? Now imagine hitting that same piece of sheet metal with a hammer. You get a nice dent. The smaller surface area focuses the kinetic energy of the impact.
The same thing is happening with the adhesive fork stops you glue to your frame. The small pieces of rubber (which are usually of a harder durometer than regular fork bumpers) focus the impact into a much smaller area than fork bumpers, thus creating deep, penetrating damage to the downtube gussets.
So you may have temporarily saved $37 on fork bumpers, but in the long run it may cost you a $2200 frame. Weakening the area around the HT is not something you want to do.
The damage to my gussets was so severe that I had to trash the entire frame.
just go to sram at a race, and do something stupid to make them laugh. i did the hullahoop for 2 minutes at the us open for free bumpers.
Has anyone ever had problems with the left upper rear link?
My Sunday is the 07 model and is only 2 weeks old, the left rear upper link on the rear triangle has left to right play of around 2-3mm.
It's like the bearing hole has been machined to deep or the piovt has been welded to far to the right.
Any ideas.
My Sunday is the 07 model and is only 2 weeks old, the left rear upper link on the rear triangle has left to right play of around 2-3mm.
It's like the bearing hole has been machined to deep or the piovt has been welded to far to the right.
Any ideas.
The bearing bore at that location was just a hair 'oversized' on mine. The bearing is held tight to the link via the bolt, but I could move the end of the swingarm back and forth on the bearing a bit with hand pressure.
Simple fix is to apply some retaining compound (loctite 609) to the bearing and reinstall. IMO retaining compound should be on ALL press fit assemblies like this anyways. I do all the assemblies on my frames when new....prevents problems down the road.
Simple fix is to apply some retaining compound (loctite 609) to the bearing and reinstall. IMO retaining compound should be on ALL press fit assemblies like this anyways. I do all the assemblies on my frames when new....prevents problems down the road.
Yep loctite 609 is your friend, and also if you want to be pedantic you can carefully shim behind the bearings so they aren't "floating" - because the correct position for them definitely doesn't seem to be hard against the seat. So yeah, the bearing seat depth is too great. The bore is also oversized slightly like davep suggested (paint will make up the gap, so some people may not have noticed it/had a problem)
This sounds quite similar to the main pivot deal on the ~05 Turner DHR's (I think) that used to get covered on threads here quite often. Anyway it's pretty much the same answer - 609 on its own seems to do the job but some careful shimming as well might be a more complete solution. And don't underestimate that stuff, it seems to hold incredibly well.
This sounds quite similar to the main pivot deal on the ~05 Turner DHR's (I think) that used to get covered on threads here quite often. Anyway it's pretty much the same answer - 609 on its own seems to do the job but some careful shimming as well might be a more complete solution. And don't underestimate that stuff, it seems to hold incredibly well.
Eh? My bumpers have a larger contact patch on the frame than any fork bumper does, effectively dissipating shock over a larger area. I've seen enough people dent their frames with standard fork bumpers and none dented with bumpers glued to the frame. I'll stick with mine I reckon and see how it goes.
The depth seemed correct as both sides of the bike had the same clearance between the link and the swingarm when the bearing was fully seated. Either way though, the propper loctite will hold the bearing even if it is not hard against the bottom of the bore.
In my case, I think it was overzealous paint removal from the bore....it looked like there were scrape marks in there.
If the hole is overdepth by a lot, and the 'stop' is that thin compared to the other side of the frame......that is a different issue.
I do agree with you. Like I said in my case, it just looked like someone got a little happy cleaning the bore of paint with a razor blade or similar. Kind of interesting it is the left side only....
I think it is a great idea to pull all bearings and bolts and apply the propper loctite compound in each location before ever riding the bike. Sometimes I even regrease bearings at this time as well. Takes some time and a bit of work, but it eliminates problems down the road.
It would be nice if this was done at the factory (I have not seen any frame preped to this level...well maybe the DHRs that had a floating bearing pivot that required the loctite).
I rebuild every fork before I ride it...bleed all my brakes before I ride them..build all my own wheels....
I guess I put this kind of work in the 'I would do it anyways' catagory, as my personal interest in my bike (or whatever) means that I will do a better job that some one who is building dozens of bikes a day.
make sure you use the propper loctite (609 here in the states), it is a retaining compound...not a thread locker.
I think it is a great idea to pull all bearings and bolts and apply the propper loctite compound in each location before ever riding the bike. Sometimes I even regrease bearings at this time as well. Takes some time and a bit of work, but it eliminates problems down the road.
It would be nice if this was done at the factory (I have not seen any frame preped to this level...well maybe the DHRs that had a floating bearing pivot that required the loctite).
I rebuild every fork before I ride it...bleed all my brakes before I ride them..build all my own wheels....
I guess I put this kind of work in the 'I would do it anyways' catagory, as my personal interest in my bike (or whatever) means that I will do a better job that some one who is building dozens of bikes a day.
make sure you use the propper loctite (609 here in the states), it is a retaining compound...not a thread locker.