If it came on a Sunday then it definilty has the Sunday tune.
08 decals aren't in yet fellas, probably a month or two yet since they're coming from overseas, by boat, and they'll have to clear customs. I'll try and keep you updated.
The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
08 decals aren't in yet fellas, probably a month or two yet since they're coming from overseas, by boat, and they'll have to clear customs. I'll try and keep you updated.
Can any one confirm that the WC complete bike is made in the USA, ie .9 lbs Lighter.
Thanks
Thanks
1. I think that DW told us on the "Sam Hill Geometry-Thread" that all 08 Frames are made in Taiwan.....
2. The 07 Factory Frames were made in the US but are as far as I know not lighter than the 07 taiwan frames. You should find this Infos somewhere on this Thread
as far as i remember the 07 frames are .9 lbs lighter than the 06 taiwanese frames
Ok Cheers.
So hopefully they should be as last years US made frames (.9lbs lighter), but made in Taiwan.
I just recently received my brand new 2008 sunday factory and its manufacturered from the USA...however, I was told that only limited numbers came from the USA and the rest where being made in Taiwan for production reasons...but who knows...i'm just happy i got mine!
Carnaza is right. The 0.9lb saving was comparing any 07 frame (US/taiwan weigh almost identically) to the 06 taiwan frames. Not sure if the 06 factory's were any lighter than the 06 taiwan's, but who cares - 07 is where they all dropped in weight thanks to lighter forged uprights on all frames.
Yep - Udi and Carnaza are right on - it's the 07 USA frames in comparison to the 06 Taiwan frames.
As far as Taiwan vs. USA production for 08'... I'll need to ask around the front office some more to figure out what exactly is going on.
As far as Taiwan vs. USA production for 08'... I'll need to ask around the front office some more to figure out what exactly is going on.
anyone of you.. know when are gonna be in stock the 08 sunday frames?
because i wanna buy one but the shop where i`ll buy it (fluidride) have no frames in stock (08).. and they will receive them soon... but i don`t have a certain date...
any new will help me to ""manage my anxiety""
because i wanna buy one but the shop where i`ll buy it (fluidride) have no frames in stock (08).. and they will receive them soon... but i don`t have a certain date...
any new will help me to ""manage my anxiety""
Depending on the size you need check go-ride...i just got my 2008 sunday factory last week! They may have some instock depending on your size.
Hey all you DW fanboys. 
irate2:
Quick question and some feedback regarding a 2007 7point;
The shafts that run through the shock eye out to the bell cranks... they seem to be seized in what I presume are the bushings in the shock eyes. This seems to be causing the shafts to rotate relative to the bell cranks, rather than rotate relative to the shock. This is causing a small amount of wear on the inner faces of the bell cranks = bad.lthumbsdown:
Am I right in thinking that the shafts should spin within the bushes in the shock eyes?
And... the bikes now about 5 months old, and the lower link rear bearings are more or less frozen, as are the top most bearings on the rear triangle. No play any where however, and everything else is sweet.
Happy new year, and thanks
Whoops.
irate2:Quick question and some feedback regarding a 2007 7point;
The shafts that run through the shock eye out to the bell cranks... they seem to be seized in what I presume are the bushings in the shock eyes. This seems to be causing the shafts to rotate relative to the bell cranks, rather than rotate relative to the shock. This is causing a small amount of wear on the inner faces of the bell cranks = bad.
lthumbsdown:Am I right in thinking that the shafts should spin within the bushes in the shock eyes?
And... the bikes now about 5 months old, and the lower link rear bearings are more or less frozen, as are the top most bearings on the rear triangle. No play any where however, and everything else is sweet.
Happy new year, and thanks
Whoops.
YES.
I had a similar issue with my '07 sunday. For me, it was the allen flat head bolt/shaft interface that was off. The head of the bolt would bottom on the shaft before the shaft was pulled tight against the bell crank/rocker...allowing the shaft to turn against the rocker (static WRT the shock eye).
I beveled/counter sunk the start of the threads (internal) of the shaft just a mm..that fixed it for me.
FYI, I do not have a 7 point nor have I looked closely at the shock mount hardware...so I have no idea if what I did to my sunday is applicable to the 7 pt.
Could someone point me in the direction to a spring rate chart for riders up to the weight of say around 250lbs or more?
did you just gain 30lb in the few minutes since you PM'd me. i'm impressed
if 250lb it is, then my guess would be a 400# spring
if 250lb it is, then my guess would be a 400# spring
I run a 350 spring at ~ 190 - 195 lbs. Works well..few bottoms with flat landings ect.
This has been quite accurate for me: http://www.tftunedshox.com/springcalc.htm on many different bikes (including the sunday) it says you should be on a 450.
This has been quite accurate for me: http://www.tftunedshox.com/springcalc.htm on many different bikes (including the sunday) it says you should be on a 450.
I ran a 350 spring at 190 lbs this season, which was a little too soft for me (riding zero pro padel and only minimum psi). I will switch to a 400 ti now.
Can anyone tell me the bearing numbers (for a full set) for a 2007 7point?
Thanks
Thanks
the #'s are printed on the sides of the bearings.
Give Enduro Fork Seals a call (http://www.enduroforkseals.com/). I was able to get a full set of new bearings for my '05 7point from them.
toby
Ok, thanks. Am away from the bike atm and wanted to order - no worries, will be home tonight.
Cheers
Check this out, i would say.
http://www.ironhorsebikes.com/bikes/7point/7POINT_frame.pdf
Cheers,
Roy
hey guys,
is there any special marzocchi roco setup/tuning needed or recommended?
@s.k.c. Did you get any info about EU painters right now? asked 4 weeks ago, post #1119
Do you have a vector file (eps or ai) of the "sunday factory" label?
Cheers!
is there any special marzocchi roco setup/tuning needed or recommended?
@s.k.c. Did you get any info about EU painters right now? asked 4 weeks ago, post #1119
Do you have a vector file (eps or ai) of the "sunday factory" label?
Cheers!
Too soft how - bottoming too often or couldn't reach proper sag? What shock were you running?
actually both in my point of view, DHX 5.0
Hi, I've searched all 80 pages (took a while) and can't find an answer.
I've got an 06 Sunday, can i use the new style extended race bearings?
Thanks in advance for any help
I've got an 06 Sunday, can i use the new style extended race bearings?
Thanks in advance for any help
Hello!
I´m from bavaria, germany and try to write a good english....
I have two problems with two ironhorse sunday bikes and hope sombody can help me.
First problem with a 2006 Sunday ...
Last year in October i broke my derailleur hanger and i ordered one pice and the lower main axle from the shock here in germany at the new ironhorse agent Marc Kroner.
The Ironhorse agent here in germany is very very bad - he told me some wonderful stories but make nothing, i´m still waiting for the two parts since 11 weeks!!!!
I phoned him several times... nothing happens...
Ironhorse could sell so much bikes and parts in Germany but the service and the sale is so bad that many dealers don´t want to deal with ironhorse...
When you speek german, look here:
http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/showthread.php?t=299112&page=2
Now, can somebody tell me one shop where i can buy the parts i need and ship to germany??
Second Problem with my 2007 Sunday WC:
I ship my black boxxer wc (very rare here in germany) to the german service point 9 weeks ago. Yesterday the guys told me they lost my fork and i get a new 2008 boxxer wc in white...
That is not so nice because a white one have everybody but i don´t want to wait untill the service point get a black casting (2-3 months).
Unfortunally i let the forkcone from the headset at the fork... i phoned FSA here in germany but they could not help me with this spare part... i should buy a new headset...
I don´t want to buy a new one...
I need more informations about the original headset so i can find out if a forkcone from another headset will fit.
I hope you understand my bad english and can help me...
I´m from bavaria, germany and try to write a good english....
I have two problems with two ironhorse sunday bikes and hope sombody can help me.
First problem with a 2006 Sunday ...
Last year in October i broke my derailleur hanger and i ordered one pice and the lower main axle from the shock here in germany at the new ironhorse agent Marc Kroner.
The Ironhorse agent here in germany is very very bad - he told me some wonderful stories but make nothing, i´m still waiting for the two parts since 11 weeks!!!!
I phoned him several times... nothing happens...
Ironhorse could sell so much bikes and parts in Germany but the service and the sale is so bad that many dealers don´t want to deal with ironhorse...
When you speek german, look here:
http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/showthread.php?t=299112&page=2
Now, can somebody tell me one shop where i can buy the parts i need and ship to germany??
Second Problem with my 2007 Sunday WC:
I ship my black boxxer wc (very rare here in germany) to the german service point 9 weeks ago. Yesterday the guys told me they lost my fork and i get a new 2008 boxxer wc in white...
That is not so nice because a white one have everybody but i don´t want to wait untill the service point get a black casting (2-3 months).
Unfortunally i let the forkcone from the headset at the fork... i phoned FSA here in germany but they could not help me with this spare part... i should buy a new headset...
I don´t want to buy a new one...
I need more informations about the original headset so i can find out if a forkcone from another headset will fit.
I hope you understand my bad english and can help me...
I have a couple of questions as I recently picked up an 05 Team w/ the 06 links and a dhx on it.
First off, I ordered new shock pins because the lower one was toast, and I also ordered the bearing caps/sleeves??
So basically Part No's 28-8307-7 and 28-8307-1 and 28-8307-2.
Just wondering what is the best way to remove those parts from the frame and install the new. I don't have a dealer in driving distance so that is not an option.
btw I am going off of this schematic: http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c54/CK_123/2007SundayNEWI.jpg
Secondly, should I have any concern about the brake hose or cable housing running right next to the shock spring? Will it damage the cables or adversely hinder the suspension?
Thanks
First off, I ordered new shock pins because the lower one was toast, and I also ordered the bearing caps/sleeves??
So basically Part No's 28-8307-7 and 28-8307-1 and 28-8307-2.
Just wondering what is the best way to remove those parts from the frame and install the new. I don't have a dealer in driving distance so that is not an option.
btw I am going off of this schematic: http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c54/CK_123/2007SundayNEWI.jpg
Secondly, should I have any concern about the brake hose or cable housing running right next to the shock spring? Will it damage the cables or adversely hinder the suspension?
Thanks
send a PM to S.K.C. he's still without internet at his new apt. He said he'd try to get on tomorrow though.
Hey everyone!
Jeez - sorry about being Missing In Action for about a week and a half, but I just re-located to a new apt. in a different state so the move has been pretty hectic to say the least.
Starting tomorrow, I will take a look at all the comments I've missed since 1/5/08 and personally reply to all of you either by PM or here in the "Sunday Thread".
Cheers - and I apologize for any inconvenience.
Jeez - sorry about being Missing In Action for about a week and a half, but I just re-located to a new apt. in a different state so the move has been pretty hectic to say the least.
Starting tomorrow, I will take a look at all the comments I've missed since 1/5/08 and personally reply to all of you either by PM or here in the "Sunday Thread".
Cheers - and I apologize for any inconvenience.
Yes you can - I need to update the frontpage about that, but it's understood that these bearings are compatible with all model year Sunday frames...
BUT
If you want to upgrade to the MAX-E bearings (extended inner race bearings) AND still use the 1st. generation linkage (as I did with my personal Sunday) then I would just replace the to bottom main pivot bearings which are located at the bottom of the uprights in the mainframe and the 2 bearings that fit into the chainstays (bottom) of the rear triangle. DON'T FORGET - once these MAX-E bearings are installed you no longer need to use the thin washers to correctly space alignment.
IMPORTANT: Before pressing in the new bearings make sure that the bearing bores (the recess into which the bearings are pressed) is clean of any metal shavings,debris,paint etc. Use a C-Clamp to carefully press in the new bearings - lube the outside of the bearings with some teflon grease from Finishing Line or Park Tool green grease to help ease the press-in.
Guten Tag Herr Pyrosteiner!
The broken derailleur hanger can be ordered and shipped to you immediately if you are in desperate need of one by sending an email to Mike L. here in the states:
MikeL@ironhorsebikes.com
As far as you Black Boxxer (is it a "Team" or a "World Cup"?) getting lost by service - that sucks. When you say you left the "forkcone" on it do you mean the "headset crown" which presses onto the steerer tube and sits below the head tube inside the headset?
Do you mean this?:
http://webstore.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=estoreproduct&taxid=232&pid=344
If so, try going to ChainReactionCycles in the UK:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx?CategoryID=206
To take out the bearing caps - it's VERY easy - all you have to do is loosen and remove the shock pin-axle and then the caps should come right out. They do not press into the frame the way the bearings do - they are held in place by the compression force of the screws on either side of the shock pin-axle.
I wouldn't worry too much about the brake and shifter cables rubbing the shock spring if you use the cable braze-ons (little metal tabs welded to frame to put a zip-tie through) but if you really want to make sure they stay out of the way, Jacey the team mechanic does this to the team bikes:
Hope this helps.
Some news: We´ve got up talking with the german Ironhorse agent because he make nothing and don´t want to make a sale... i and my friend are not the only two guys who think so! You should have a look at german MTB-sites like www.mtb-news.de/forumGuten Tag Herr Pyrosteiner!
The broken derailleur hanger can be ordered and shipped to you immediately if you are in desperate need of one by sending an email to Mike L. here in the states:
MikeL@ironhorsebikes.com
As far as you Black Boxxer (is it a "Team" or a "World Cup"?) getting lost by service - that sucks. When you say you left the "forkcone" on it do you mean the "headset crown" which presses onto the steerer tube and sits below the head tube inside the headset?
Do you mean this?:
http://webstore.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=estoreproduct&taxid=232&pid=344
If so, try going to ChainReactionCycles in the UK:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx?CategoryID=206
I will get one derailleur hanger from bikestore.cc, Graz, Austria. But the store have no axle on stock. They try to get one piece...
I had a black boxxer World Cup with red decals ... original fork from the complete 2007 WC bike. I will get a new one but the casting will be white - the service point told they can´t deliver a black one... this sucks !!! And they don´t want to order and pay the additional parts like the headset crown...
Headset crown is the right word... sorry, i´m not so good in english.
The pic from the crown shows the crown i need for the original headset in the 2007 Ironhorse WC complete bike?
I will phone FSA here in Germany and will ask for a headset crown with the name ORBIT X CROWN RACE 1 1/8".
I can´t find the crown from this headset at chainreactioncycles...
I am just to lazy to look thought the forum but what should the sag be at for a 2006 sunday with a 2007 fox DHX 5.0 with 300 spring ? I weight 140? thanks for the help
Pyrosteiner:
either this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=4040
or this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=4040
will fit your headset.
You just need a crown race for a 36 degree angle, angular contact bearing. Both of these are the corrrect part (in fact, they are the same part).
either this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=4040
or this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=4040
will fit your headset.
You just need a crown race for a 36 degree angle, angular contact bearing. Both of these are the corrrect part (in fact, they are the same part).
Heh - It's OK - you can be lazy and still find out what the proper sag should be
(I tried to design this thread so that you don't have to go swimming through tons of pages to find what you need) Just check out the main page of what has come to be known as "The Sunday Thread". Click on the link to PUSH Industries website and they have all the info there.Sag is typically run at around 30 to 35% in the rear on most DH rigs including the Sunday.
Negative!
I was just using that pic as an example to make sure we were talking about the same thing.
davep posted what you need, which is a crown race - I called it a "headset crown" so apparently my english isn't that great either :biggrin:
Most Sundays come with an FSA IS2 Orbit headset or some variation of that.
Hope this helps.
I already wrote you via PM, that I can send you the headset crown you need. It's used but 4 free, son.
Just tell me your Adress.
Kommt von einem CaneCreek und passt auf jeden Fall, da 36°.
Cheers
How accurate do you need to get to 13NM and 26NM's (which I guess is 10 and 20ft-lbs) when you are tightening up your shock pivots and linkage?
I looked all over for a torque wrench that was less than a billion dollars (like $75 or more) that had any accuracy on that low a setting. They say it is +- 4%, but at the low end I'll bet it is more like 10-20%. So if it happened to go to 15nm and 30nm would it screw things up?
I looked all over for a torque wrench that was less than a billion dollars (like $75 or more) that had any accuracy on that low a setting. They say it is +- 4%, but at the low end I'll bet it is more like 10-20%. So if it happened to go to 15nm and 30nm would it screw things up?
I'm probably gonna get shot down for saying this, but you're better off getting a feel for how tight things need to be instead of relying on an inaccurate torque wrench. I'm sure there are good ones out there that are reasonably priced but IMO a real mech shouldn't need to fiddle with one for everything. Maybe on a car engine or something but not on a bike. If I had one, the only place I'd advise its use is on the large 22mm head alloy hex screws for the lower pivot - and only because alloy parts and a big socket wrench can be a recipe for disaster if you're not careful. Even then, a little care and it's fine.
On the sunday my advice would be clean all threads on all hardware, and use red (262) loctite on everything if you're the set and forget type. No bolts seem to have loosening issues EXCEPT the two 6mm countersunk screws (4mm head) either side of the lower shock pin, so technically you can use blue (242/243) loctite on everything apart from those.
These need to be tightened well, the only way they won't come loose over time in my experience is if you clean them well, use red loctite, and crank them down hard. The bolt head will strip before anything else bad happens (and if that happens you can gently hammer a torx / imperial fitting in and remove them), I've replaced those two on my bike with high tensile versions which seem to be more durable than the stock parts.
On the sunday my advice would be clean all threads on all hardware, and use red (262) loctite on everything if you're the set and forget type. No bolts seem to have loosening issues EXCEPT the two 6mm countersunk screws (4mm head) either side of the lower shock pin, so technically you can use blue (242/243) loctite on everything apart from those.
These need to be tightened well, the only way they won't come loose over time in my experience is if you clean them well, use red loctite, and crank them down hard. The bolt head will strip before anything else bad happens (and if that happens you can gently hammer a torx / imperial fitting in and remove them), I've replaced those two on my bike with high tensile versions which seem to be more durable than the stock parts.