X2
I'd like a new headbadge as well.
I need graphics on top of that
As far as decals slik graphics, bikedecals.com, and any other vendors added would be cool. I think.I'm going to try slik graphics.
Last edited:
The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
I'd like a new headbadge as well.
I need graphics on top of that
As far as decals slik graphics, bikedecals.com, and any other vendors added would be cool. I think.I'm going to try slik graphics.
I recently got mine re done with some slik graphics stuff, I had read a few bad reviews about them relating to their contact with customers and all I can say is if you dont get a quick response from them via email ring them directly, alot of people were ripping on them without even picking up the phone!! I believe they are a very small operation with alot of work on the go so the emails seem to get a bit less attention.
As for the work theyve done? I am more than delighted with the product, its exactly as I wanted, thick stickers that have yet to scuff or come loose and its definitely given my sunday a new lease of life, definitely recommend.
Not the best camera or back drop but its a beauty in real life.
As for the work theyve done? I am more than delighted with the product, its exactly as I wanted, thick stickers that have yet to scuff or come loose and its definitely given my sunday a new lease of life, definitely recommend.
Not the best camera or back drop but its a beauty in real life.
BIKESDECALS | Stickers for bicycles | Customized decals and Stickers | Calcomanias para bicicletas
Decals: I've ordered from them 3 times and have always been fully satisfied!
Nice video!
its fun watching suspension movement on dw-link(IH Sunday WC 09)
I disagree. I would not do business with BikeDecals.com again. The quality was so-so. The Boxxer fork decals I got were crooked and the "rockshox" portion was flipped upside down.
My bike is definitely a 15 footer. It looks decent from 15 feet away but up close the decals look cheap.
As it's been said many times over in this thread by numerous people. I LOVE this bike. I've never felt so comfortable on a bike before. It's terribly fun hauling ass in on steep, nasty wet roots with "dry" tires on getting loose and soiling my pants with fear and adrenaline only to giggle like a little school girl at the bottom of the hill.
I'm back to 63.5 h 64 head angle. Rode the 63 tonight and didn't feel like I could get the front weighted enough on everything but the steeps and it didn't track and suck up the chatter unless it was steep with a forward impact leaned into it.
Rode 64 and it ripped as well as had 63.5 on the last Sunday and it was a good middle for uber steeps mixd with some flatter stuff.
So 64 ha it is, also had to let air out of the fork to get sag right because of the loading on fork being different.
Rode 64 and it ripped as well as had 63.5 on the last Sunday and it was a good middle for uber steeps mixd with some flatter stuff.
So 64 ha it is, also had to let air out of the fork to get sag right because of the loading on fork being different.
travis - pics? you have PJ's old sunday right?
His is on the way I'm taking all the parts off and redoing the frame the new links are getting modded for a avalanche chubbie.
anyone here using the RC4 fox rear shock too?
what settings do you use?
me:
70kg
300 TI spring
BV Pressure: 140psi the BV is fully close.
HSC: -10 clicks out from full close
LSC: -12 clicks out from full close
R: 5 clicks from full open
the bike is very stable.
but after riding my friend new DW DHR ... is seems like the DHR works deeper through the travel
is feels like my sunday works great on the small to mid size hits, but not so good on the big hits...
maybe its time to check it with BV half close... ?
any ideas?
thanks guys.
what settings do you use?
me:
70kg
300 TI spring
BV Pressure: 140psi the BV is fully close.
HSC: -10 clicks out from full close
LSC: -12 clicks out from full close
R: 5 clicks from full open
the bike is very stable.
but after riding my friend new DW DHR ... is seems like the DHR works deeper through the travel
is feels like my sunday works great on the small to mid size hits, but not so good on the big hits...
maybe its time to check it with BV half close... ?
any ideas?
thanks guys.
you didn't understood me
I know all about the sunday been linear and the DHR more progressive.
that is why I closed the bottom out all the way in.
after riding the DHR for some runs I now knows that my sunday probably doesn't use all it rear travel...
I'll try opening the bottom out half way, with all the rest of the adjustments the same.
hope it will cure this
I'll be happy to hear you experiences.
I know all about the sunday been linear and the DHR more progressive.
that is why I closed the bottom out all the way in.
after riding the DHR for some runs I now knows that my sunday probably doesn't use all it rear travel...
I'll try opening the bottom out half way, with all the rest of the adjustments the same.
hope it will cure this
I'll be happy to hear you experiences.
Hmmph....I never really came to love my bike quite the way you guys are suggesting. I'm tempted to pick up another one (some good deals out there) and give it another shot. I still don't think you can get the same weight, geometry, and performance ratio at a remotely close pricepoint. I just never got along with mine; I'm tempted to blame the shock (DHX), but if you guys love it so much, I have a hard time believing it's the bike and not something else.
Sandwich -
I think getting the right shock was what made me happy in the end. I tried pretty much every shock out there and was never 100% happy. I even swapped the BOS back in about a month ago with a slightly harder spring and fresh settings, and I did like it - however I prefer the RC4 in it still. That's just me though, I'm sure YMMV. People seem to like the Vivid too.
Setup makes a huge difference too, the things I found that helped (me) a lot were:
- Wider bars (I'm sure everyone already does this, I went from 710 - 760 - 790 currently)
- Correct sag (33-35%, I used to have more and disliked it)
- Slacker HA, but not too much directly from cups, see below
- Higher fork to keep the BB from being excessively low (lower bars if desired) - will also slacken
That last one was a big thing for me, I always felt the bike held me back in really rough / holey stuff. Getting the sag right and lifting the BB up to 13.75 made it faster (this wouldn't have been possible with a flat-crown Boxxer like most people run - I used to as well). I'm sure it was a combination of all those things rather than just the shock that made me happy. I guess the trick is to work out what bothers you personally and to nail it down, it's the same on any bike really.
Saruti -
I am 75kg with no gear/clothing and run a 300 also, so it would make sense that you might need softer settings, and perhaps opening the boost valve a little, as the shock is quite progressive. Ideally you would use a slightly softer spring and keep the bottom out closed but 275 is probably too soft and you can't get anything in between. You should measure rebound out from full closed because the total clicks vary from shock to shock. My settings are below for reference.
Rebound: 7 out from full closed
LSC: 16 out from full closed (20 total)
HSC: fully closed
BO: fully closed
BP: 150psi
I think getting the right shock was what made me happy in the end. I tried pretty much every shock out there and was never 100% happy. I even swapped the BOS back in about a month ago with a slightly harder spring and fresh settings, and I did like it - however I prefer the RC4 in it still. That's just me though, I'm sure YMMV. People seem to like the Vivid too.
Setup makes a huge difference too, the things I found that helped (me) a lot were:
- Wider bars (I'm sure everyone already does this, I went from 710 - 760 - 790 currently)
- Correct sag (33-35%, I used to have more and disliked it)
- Slacker HA, but not too much directly from cups, see below
- Higher fork to keep the BB from being excessively low (lower bars if desired) - will also slacken
That last one was a big thing for me, I always felt the bike held me back in really rough / holey stuff. Getting the sag right and lifting the BB up to 13.75 made it faster (this wouldn't have been possible with a flat-crown Boxxer like most people run - I used to as well). I'm sure it was a combination of all those things rather than just the shock that made me happy. I guess the trick is to work out what bothers you personally and to nail it down, it's the same on any bike really.
Saruti -
I am 75kg with no gear/clothing and run a 300 also, so it would make sense that you might need softer settings, and perhaps opening the boost valve a little, as the shock is quite progressive. Ideally you would use a slightly softer spring and keep the bottom out closed but 275 is probably too soft and you can't get anything in between. You should measure rebound out from full closed because the total clicks vary from shock to shock. My settings are below for reference.
Rebound: 7 out from full closed
LSC: 16 out from full closed (20 total)
HSC: fully closed
BO: fully closed
BP: 150psi
As udi stated my spot on set up is
Shock plays a HUGE part of how the regressive rear works loved the rock wc on it and the avy is dialed in part to dw and craig being friends and conversing.
Drop stem helps get the weight over the front when 63.5
63.5-64 ha any slacker and its too unweighted on tracks if its not stupid steep.
A smidge more PS I in my wc and open slow speed with a bit more mid speed.
Shocks play a huge roll my CANFIELD one has an avy with a soft high speed blow off spring and it made that bike a total beast..
The fork and ha are pretty critical as far as set up once you dial it in these are real fun and fast bikes.
Shock plays a HUGE part of how the regressive rear works loved the rock wc on it and the avy is dialed in part to dw and craig being friends and conversing.
Drop stem helps get the weight over the front when 63.5
63.5-64 ha any slacker and its too unweighted on tracks if its not stupid steep.
A smidge more PS I in my wc and open slow speed with a bit more mid speed.
Shocks play a huge roll my CANFIELD one has an avy with a soft high speed blow off spring and it made that bike a total beast..
The fork and ha are pretty critical as far as set up once you dial it in these are real fun and fast bikes.
Last edited:
I keep hearing this "any slacker than 64 is too washy" business and I'm not feeling it. I'm running 62.5 on mine and my tire is glued to the ground all the time. I've never come to find it pushing or sliding. I doubt my trails are anything special, we've got steep but it can't be much more if any than what you guys are riding.
I am going to pull my HA back up to 63 to get the BB a bit heigher though as I'm on a flat crown boxxer with a 13.5bb height.
On a side note, I popped my bike up in the stand today to install my thrasher wheels and new Spank pedals. 20 minutes later I dropped it down to test ride and my DHX was blown. No damping at all. I'm not sure what happened there.
It's too bad I just paid for school and have no money to buy a shock or even fix mine. No DH until summer for me.
BmxConvert -
Mine measures up at about 62.5 too currently, no dramas even on our flattish tracks. I'd have it slacker in the Alps, down to 61.5 even. I just found it worked better to use the fork height to get the slackness than the cups, but that might just be me.
Saruti -
My HSC is fully closed. I prefer how both the 40 and RC4 work with more on the HSC adjuster and less on the LSC (more support and more sensitivity at the same time). That setting is probably too firm for you though, I'd be about 80kg with gear and like fairly firm compression.
Mine measures up at about 62.5 too currently, no dramas even on our flattish tracks. I'd have it slacker in the Alps, down to 61.5 even. I just found it worked better to use the fork height to get the slackness than the cups, but that might just be me.
Saruti -
My HSC is fully closed. I prefer how both the 40 and RC4 work with more on the HSC adjuster and less on the LSC (more support and more sensitivity at the same time). That setting is probably too firm for you though, I'd be about 80kg with gear and like fairly firm compression.
You know, it was never the geometry nor bike setup that got to me. I thought the bike instantly felt comfortable, and I think I would have settled on the -1 reducer cups, if I wanted to mess with my angleset again, and been totally happy...but it was the suspension that consistently let me down. I do believe it was the shock, as I could never get the rebound as fast as I would have liked it. When I sold the bike, I had the DHX set to half way out and minimum (125psi) pressure. Rebound was full open, and compression was pretty light, I think. Didn't seem to matter one way or the other. I found that the bike would always pack up, never seemed to use its full travel, and on flat ground, pedaling seemed to have an odd effect on the wheel. It always bothered me that I didn't have the money nor confidence to replace the shock, but I'm inclined to believe that I was wrong, as everybody else agrees!
I had a married mans comment for this lol but I'll leave it alone, lol
Definently needs a proper tuned shock for it to feel good and performs great when set up.
Last edited:
Joining the club....
hopefully to ride her this coming weekends..
hopefully to ride her this coming weekends..
DMdh -
That's a stock lower link that has been modified to fit an RC4 (both braces removed). I have been running mine like that for a while with no dramas, but as with anything - modify at your own risk.
Tatems -
Thanks, but unfortunately my frame is anodized, not powdercoated - so you probably won't be able to achieve the same finish via powdercoating. It was soda-blasted first to remove paint - glass bead and walnut blasting will both achieve similar results. Sand or garnet blasting won't work however (damaging, poor finish).
That's a stock lower link that has been modified to fit an RC4 (both braces removed). I have been running mine like that for a while with no dramas, but as with anything - modify at your own risk.
Tatems -
Thanks, but unfortunately my frame is anodized, not powdercoated - so you probably won't be able to achieve the same finish via powdercoating. It was soda-blasted first to remove paint - glass bead and walnut blasting will both achieve similar results. Sand or garnet blasting won't work however (damaging, poor finish).
Id be curious if this can be done with he 05 links and same question how reliable any flex and have there been any cracking problems. It looks alot like the pearc cycles boss link profile so it mus t be OK but without seeing their gussets no idea.
same here, i want to see a modfied 06 red anno dw link, is it the same procedure as the 07 link, cut the braces? just want to be sure before i cut my 06 link.
btw, anyone have the drawings of the hex pivot bolts? please share, I think its cheaper to fabricate than to purchase the set from pearce cycles. I might buy the 07 lower link and mod it.
question: is the casted 07 lower link prone to scoring from the enduro extended bearings?
is CNC links (bos) harder to flex than the casted link?
btw, anyone have the drawings of the hex pivot bolts? please share, I think its cheaper to fabricate than to purchase the set from pearce cycles. I might buy the 07 lower link and mod it.
question: is the casted 07 lower link prone to scoring from the enduro extended bearings?
is CNC links (bos) harder to flex than the casted link?
If the boss link is cncd it will be a hellaofalot tougher than a cast piece. Cast has porosity where cncd is milled down from solid block.
FOR THOSE WITH DHX5:
if you arent able to get enough mid stroke support, or you feel that you dive too much into its travel you can change your shim stack like I did, and it works perfectly, I even have more hidraulic than my friend´s rc4. The only bad thing is that maybe you will have to do a few trial and error attemps to get it to your personal preferences and you cant change compression externally.
First, assuming you know how to open the shock (you only need to open the shaft side and its relatively easy) you will have to get to the compression shims ( the ones closer to the rebound knob).
Second, changing the shims order. Mi shim stack order was something like a bigger shim followed by a crossover shim (smaller shim to help a softer low speed compression) and then a piramid stack of shims.
What I did and I think that its what the vast majority of sunday+dh5 owners will have to do is taking out that crossover shim and adding 2 more shims (medium size I didnt measure them sorry) and build a piramid shim stack.
The results are amazing, the bike still its soft in its first part of travel and then in the mid travel it increases drastically to have a incredible support on high speed hits. Moreover this hard hidraulic allows me to ride with less psi so I use all the travel and the low speed feels nice.
(maybe the shim stack that you will find in your dh5 is different or you will need to do different changes to suit your stile and weigh. I weight 69 kg with gear on an I run a 300lbs spring with 140 psi, 0 propedal, rebound full fast and 3/4 in boost valve)
if you arent able to get enough mid stroke support, or you feel that you dive too much into its travel you can change your shim stack like I did, and it works perfectly, I even have more hidraulic than my friend´s rc4. The only bad thing is that maybe you will have to do a few trial and error attemps to get it to your personal preferences and you cant change compression externally.
First, assuming you know how to open the shock (you only need to open the shaft side and its relatively easy) you will have to get to the compression shims ( the ones closer to the rebound knob).
Second, changing the shims order. Mi shim stack order was something like a bigger shim followed by a crossover shim (smaller shim to help a softer low speed compression) and then a piramid stack of shims.
What I did and I think that its what the vast majority of sunday+dh5 owners will have to do is taking out that crossover shim and adding 2 more shims (medium size I didnt measure them sorry) and build a piramid shim stack.
The results are amazing, the bike still its soft in its first part of travel and then in the mid travel it increases drastically to have a incredible support on high speed hits. Moreover this hard hidraulic allows me to ride with less psi so I use all the travel and the low speed feels nice.
(maybe the shim stack that you will find in your dh5 is different or you will need to do different changes to suit your stile and weigh. I weight 69 kg with gear on an I run a 300lbs spring with 140 psi, 0 propedal, rebound full fast and 3/4 in boost valve)
ritche / bullcrew -
The stock F7 (2007-2009) lower link is not cast, it is forged 7075-T6. Thus it would be stronger than an equivalent machined or cast part in that order. Virtually no linkages in downhill bikes are cast, that's just silly.
The BOS link is significantly heavier than the stock part (I had one), and because of that it will likely be stronger / stiffer than a cut-out stock link - but personally I don't see the need to make the monetary and weight sacrifice.
I don't think anyone here has modified the 06 link to fit an RC4 (it may still not fit after cutting), and I doubt the old link is as strong as the new one. Personally I'd obtain an 07+ link before cutting away at it. Again, this is all at your own risk, but mine didn't crack or flex significantly after most of this year riding in the swiss alps.
The stock F7 (2007-2009) lower link is not cast, it is forged 7075-T6. Thus it would be stronger than an equivalent machined or cast part in that order. Virtually no linkages in downhill bikes are cast, that's just silly.
The BOS link is significantly heavier than the stock part (I had one), and because of that it will likely be stronger / stiffer than a cut-out stock link - but personally I don't see the need to make the monetary and weight sacrifice.
I don't think anyone here has modified the 06 link to fit an RC4 (it may still not fit after cutting), and I doubt the old link is as strong as the new one. Personally I'd obtain an 07+ link before cutting away at it. Again, this is all at your own risk, but mine didn't crack or flex significantly after most of this year riding in the swiss alps.
id think bandsaw or clamp it use a grinder. Bandsaw is what id try.
Does anyone have an f7 linkage they want to get rid of, or know where I could get one?
Will the upper rocker f7 work with 05/06 lower links. I thought I saw soewhere they didn't but I can't imagine why.
The upper rocker is unrelated to the lower link, and the frames/links all have the same geometry so you can mix and match. As long as all the appropriate hardware is used to match the link on top or bottom, you're good to go.
Just as a reminder though, the 05-06 frames are .9lbs (408g) heavier than the 07-09 frames. If I was buying one, I'd try and get an 07+ for that reason - the weight difference is in the frame and not the linkages.
Just as a reminder though, the 05-06 frames are .9lbs (408g) heavier than the 07-09 frames. If I was buying one, I'd try and get an 07+ for that reason - the weight difference is in the frame and not the linkages.