[ritche]

thanks guys. I did not think there were different tunes for the rc4 but just wanted to make sure. I have been stuck in air shock land for quite a few years now

Latest kashima RC4 i bought for my sunday has a sticker: "compression tune F", i have ridden it and it's OK for me.

I think it was mentioned here the sunday requires a "low compression tune" shox.

*Does it mean, I should have bought the "compression tune L"?.

From what i have read 2012/2013 FOX shox both air and coil have 3 compression tune and 3 rebound tunes
therefore there are total of 9 combinations of rebound and compression tune.

F = firm
M = medium
L = low/light

Rockshox also have their tune.

Nowadays bike manufacturer specify the tune of the shox best suited for the frame.

Basically, no more off the shelf/ 2nd hand shox shopping on e-bay!

So, what is the tune of fox RC4 shock do we need for the sunday?

 

[Dodgysam]

Walked into my local bike shop today to pick up zerode and saw this just sitting there looking all lonely.

A prototype sunday without the DW link.
We arent sure how the owner came upon it as we are in NZ, but it sure is a nice bike!

 

[Mo(n)arch]

Looks like a Trek.

 

[Owennn]

There was one on Ebay a few weeks ago.

 

[kuzlich]

Finnaly:

Need new saddle, pedals and gips.

 

[richgardiner]

sick but de-sticker those rims!

 

[Rocko]

+ change the ugly saddle.

 

[Dsunday]

Ive searched and can only find one person sayin the lower 22mm hex bolts are standard left to loosen threads.
can anyone confim this?
just i am after breaking on side of my drive side one. i had it soaking overnight too in wd40 :-/

Anyway i am having real trouble with the lower link shock removal.
the 4mm bolts are removed and i cant get the shock pink out or the 22mm hex bolts loosened.

can someone confirm the shock bin removes away from the drive side.
ie. i have a bolt screwed in the driveside as shown and i am hammering down on the drive side expecting the split pin to come out the non drive side.

Im going to get a 6point 22mm socket and leverage bar and some heat on the 22mm's next.

anyone else have these two problems?
I really hate the hardware on the sundays even though i love the bike....

any help much appreciated..

 

[Udi]

Both 22mm Hex bolts are standard thread.
There's nothing wrong with the Sunday hardware, but if those hexes are loctited in, they will be a nightmare to get out. Best to just lightly grease the threads on those on installation.

The best suggestion I can give is to grind down the face of your 22mm socket if you haven't already, so there is maximum contact area on the hex and therefore less chance of rounding them out. If there's any chance loctite has been used, a blowtorch will weaken the bond.

And yes, the shock pin removes away from the drive side - when you remove the scews you can see which side of the pin is bigger (the bigger side, which should be on non-drive, has a slit through it so the pin can expand when the bolt is screwed in). The only reason it would be the other way is if the previous owner installed the hexes incorrectly, however you can check that as I described.

Once you're sure you have the orientation correct, screw a long screw into the pin, and give it a good whack with a hammer.

 

[Dsunday]

Cheers UDI, really appreciate that.
when i mention the hardware i mean the bolts mainly. I have replaced a good few as the originals are made of cheese compared to most bikes.

yes my split pin is on non drive side. i have let it soak and tried 'shock and unlock' spray and threaded in a long bolt to drive side and givin it about 15 heavy whacks of a rubber mallet and no joy.
not even a mm of movement.

this was why I was trying to loosen the 22mm hex's. thought it might free up the shock pin but now they're being a pain also.
I'll try get heat on them with a 6point socket grinded down and a leverage bar.

good to know they are normal thread though. must be the loctite keeping them there.

 

[Udi]

You need to use a hammer for the pin like I said, not a rubber mallet. If you are using a long bolt threaded in a good way there's no risk of damaging any part of the frame anyway, and using a mallet will just absorb instead of transferring the force. A good hard hit with a hammer will dislodge the pin, goes without saying that it should be greased upon reinstall.

If you can get a friend to hold the socket wrench tight against the hex as you lever it may help if it is really stubborn. Lots of leverage is great, but you have to be careful to not slip off it. Grinding the socket flat helps a lot though.

Worst case scenario a blowtorch will usually free things up, and in some cases it can prevent damage to components that would otherwise strip or have their heads damaged. It's up to you though obviously.

 

[Dsunday]

ah yes makes sense i guess.. try a break the bod with a deadblow shock.
ill give it a go this evening.
ill grind down the socket too.

cheers udi for your help.

 

[ritche]

Is that Ben Reid's Sunday?

 

[Marius]

View attachment 113369

Ready for the last rides before the new frame arrives

 

[ogame]

I have the opportunity to mount a rc2, really worth paying another 100 € and mount rc4?

hydraulically the two are equal?

I do not understand the differences between the HSC and put air in the chamber bootsvalve.

In my old dhx 5, each regulation was differentiated,but in a rc4 regulations of stroke end don't mix?

 

[Dsunday]

Legend UDI, what was i thinking with the mallet? straight out with the hammer no bother.

Actually the dhx5 is obviously a custom tune for reid hence the gold caps and its time for a service/tune.
anyone know what might be done to it as i dnt want to loose and custom tune as it been running real well.
have mailed reid but no joy, might try him again.

yes ritche, its reids old bike. still going strong.

 

[Udi]

I have the opportunity to mount a rc2, really worth paying another 100 € and mount rc4? I do not understand the differences between the HSC and put air in the chamber bootsvalve.
In my old dhx 5, each regulation was differentiated,but in a rc4 regulations of stroke end don't mix?

Short answer is that the RC2 will work fine.
The RC2 is missing the HSC adjuster (silver dial) and the chamber volume adjustment (large blue dial). The LSC/HSC adjusters are independent of the boostvalve pressure and volume adjustments for the most part. The former adjusters just control speed sensitive damping, while the BV pressure and volume dictate the position sensitive component (which is also speed sensitive, but might be simpler to ignore that for now). The effects of pressure and volume overlap, however decreasing the volume instead of increasing the pressure allows less beginning stroke compression damping, and more ending stroke compression damping; which is better for the Sunday than more of both.

The HSC adjustment in the RC2 is set to the equivalent of about 6-8 clicks from open, which is a sufficiently good setting so there's no huge need to adjust it. The volume component however is useful on the Sunday and you'll miss out on that, however it's quite easy to control the volume in the boost chamber by either raising the IFP depth to reduce volume (if you are comfortable with rebuilding the DHX line of shocks), or simply adding a small amount of oil to the air chamber (I'd suggest no more than 5ml). But try it stock first, you might be happy with it as-is.

Legend UDI, what was i thinking with the mallet? straight out with the hammer no bother.

Good to hear it worked. Nice ride.

 

[ogame]

thank you very much UDI
Now I understand the differences.
It could take the bootsvalve dial of a rc4 and install on the rc2?

 

[300hp]

Yo, OG Sunday gurus:

I have a 2005 Factory (USA frame). It's time to get er' spruced up with bearings. I've read the first page of the thread, but I wanted to double check if the commonly available (read, enduro) bearing kits, or lists of bearing sizes in this thread to make your own kits are still compatible with my frame? Since it was an early version, I don't know if some minor tweaks to the linkages were made when the frame really took off in 2006.

my frame has a grey/gunmetal lower link (we modded it to fit an RC4 a few seasons ago, no issues with it)

Thanks to all who have compiled info here, knowing I can keep working on this bike and keep it running well is awesome.

Hunter.

 

[300hp]

oh. Since I pulled this from another thread, if you're looking to run an RC4 on your Sunday, per Steve M's instructions, this is a good place to start with base settings (thanks, Steve!). I added a bit of my own info too.

(all settings are clicks OUT from full IN)

Reb: 5 clicks out (range is about 12 clicks)

LSC: 8 clicks out (range is about 18 clicks)

HSC: 8 clicks out (range is about 12 clicks)

Bottom out: Full IN, then set pressure to 175-200psi

in ref to running an RC2 vs RC4, you can see that the baseline setting for the RC4 is pretty damn close to your baseline on the RC4. If you can save a good bit of money, it's certainly not a bad way to go. Maybe, if Udi is feeling real nice like, he can tell you what he set the IFP depth to on his RC2 to emulate an RC4 with bottom out full in. If you figure that out, for sure get the cheaper one and save some cash (I'm guessing somewhere in the 32-34mm range from the top of the piggyback, but that's purely based on messing with my Roco's, and what the factory setting for DHX 5.0s is)

Hope that helps someone.
Hunter

 

[the_maxis_233]

Done!

 

[csermonet]

*SPAM* I have the red lower link from a 2006 Sunday, and the upper linkage plates as well. Also have one of the pivot axles, I'll have to check and see which pivot it is for exactly. Here is a picture of exactly the items I have. Are in usable condition, although the bearings in the linkage could stand to be replaced. Other than not looking pretty, all parts are able to be used. Make an offer if you are interested. Don't have any Sunday frames anymore so they just sit in my boneyard for parts. They deserve more than that! Buyer pays shipping, would prefer to not deal with international shipping but if buyer pays for it I am not opposed.

picture - http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/8975263/

 

[tosam]

(all settings are clicks OUT from full IN)

Thank you very much for this information. I just bought my RC4 an i needed this.

But i don't understand this sentence who is essential
When you say "Out from full in", you start yours settings with all OPEN ? excatly ?

 

[300hp]

starting with all settings fully closed.

 

[BmxConvert]

*SPAM* I have the red lower link from a 2006 Sunday, and the upper linkage plates as well. Also have one of the pivot axles, I'll have to check and see which pivot it is for exactly. Here is a picture of exactly the items I have. Are in usable condition, although the bearings in the linkage could stand to be replaced. Other than not looking pretty, all parts are able to be used. Make an offer if you are interested. Don't have any Sunday frames anymore so they just sit in my boneyard for parts. They deserve more than that! Buyer pays shipping, would prefer to not deal with international shipping but if buyer pays for it I am not opposed.

picture - http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/8975263/

I just sold my Sunday and the buyer wants one of the red links. I'll take anything you have Sunday related for him.

 

[SithLord]

I would be interested to know which frame size would you recommend? Im 174cm high Thanks

 

[Rocko]

I'm 177 and run with an L.

 

[tosam]

I'm 172 and i ride on Small frame
the size is very personnal, if you can, try a M frame, i think its the best solution

 

[tosam]

Bos linkage in my pocket

 

[Rocko]

If you want something similar to newerage dh frame definitely go with large.
The wheelbase is similar to a modern medium (or nowaday small) frame. It gives you more stabilty at speed.
The reach is just right for me. I don't like short front ends.

 

[Ribas]

Does any of you know the real difference in performance between the Bos Stoy and the Bos Stoy Rare in the Sunday frame?
I can only imagine that the hydraulic bottom out should make the end stroke more progressive in theory.
How does the Rare shock compares to the Fox RC4 in the Sunday frame?

 

[Udi]

tosam -
Not to contradict what has been said, but I think those settings above are too firm for the average rider. Try 150psi (max) to start off with after winding the bottom out all the way in, and start with minimum LSC. The HSC setting suggested should be fine. If the rearend is diving excessively, try increasing LSC first and otherwise pressure as required - however I think 175-200psi is definitely too high for the Sunday - as the frame does not have a very strong initial progression component, so with such a large shaft for pressure to act on, you want to try and minimise pressure to increase small bump sensitivity / beginning stroke sensitivity.

SithLord -
Are you planning to run slacker cups? If you're planning to run -1.5* or more, the Large may be too long for you (it will become hard to weight the front wheel). The hand to foot distance of the L Sunday is longer than more modern frames of the same size, due to the steeper stock head angle by modern standards. For 174cm I myself would suggest a medium, as the M Sunday is a generously sized M. You can also get the wheelbase into the 46.5 region with slacker headtube cups (stock wheelbase on L is 46.25) for more stability and essentially the 'feel' of a longer bike, without stretching you out too much physically.

Ribas -
I sent you a PM with my thoughts on the topic.

 

[ritche]

just a tought, since some of you cut speed holes on the uprights to ligthen the sunday frame,

How about a 650B sunday! Feasible?

*any volunteer, those of you have spare swing arms, and a dremel, (the fender cross brace will be removed).

How much swingarm material you will remove to fit and clear 650B rear wheel?

 

[An0maly]

Hey guys, heres my 06 sunday, love it.

 

[fandi]

hi guys, i've been here since 2009 i started dh. registered today because i need help from you gurus in this thread. i just bought a 2008 sunday wc recently. it is off to the workshop for a new paint scheme next week.

i am going to slowly refurbish the frame. is there any other website other than pearce cycles selling sunday parts. i saw another one licycleworx but looks like it doesnt have all the parts for the sunday but price is affordable.

what part do i have to cut to put in a rc4? better than a ccdb for the sunday? and are those link parts available online?

i've only look at stuffs/parts for the frame on pearce,licycle,k9,rwc. any other options ive missed?
cheers all! hope i'll get some great tips from you guys.

 

[tosam]

Hi,

You can cut the linkage like this


Or buy a new. BETD and BOS suspension do it
http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=387&Name=IRON+HORSE+Linkages+and+spares
http://boutique.bosmtb.com/fr/produits/p42-bielette-iron-horse

 

[tanec]

Hello Sunday Fans,

Yesterday i an idea is bring in my mind. My housemate has bought an Iron Horse 6 point and yesterday i get the size of the upper link of 6 point. The size from the center of link to shock mount axle is the same of sunday pivot, but from the center of pivot to rear triangle there is difference from about 10 mm (sunday link is longer) and i think if it can replace only the upper pivot with 6 point pivot the BB will be lowered and make the head angle stepper like new age downill bikes. Does any one tried this transformation ?

According to this idea see this pic

. This sunday is with custom upper link and the HA is 63,5°.

 

[msaman]

Hello Sunday Fans,

Yesterday i an idea is bring in my mind. My housemate has bought an Iron Horse 6 point and yesterday i get the size of the upper link of 6 point. The size from the center of link to shock mount axle is the same of sunday pivot, but from the center of pivot to rear triangle there is difference from about 10 mm (sunday link is longer) and i think if it can replace only the upper pivot with 6 point pivot the BB will be lowered and make the head angle stepper like new age downill bikes. Does any one tried this transformation ?

According to this idea see this pic

. This sunday is with custom upper link and the HA is 63,5°.

If you use different upper link I guess you will shorten the rear travel not quite sure on that though.
There is no need to do such things because your BB is already low enough (probably arround 345-350mm).
I would say just go and buy some angleset on Internet and hopefully you will be happy with the result.
Also bear in mind that with going for a slacker bike you need to be much more agressive than before just because there will not be so much weight on the front axle and you might wash out your front tire on open corners .Everything depends what type of trial you ride most often and what is your comfortable zone .
I have a rear shock which is shortened by 5 mm and -2 degree cups .So the BB is arround 333 mm and I must say it's not comfortable at all.I bang my pedals way too often in roots and stuff like that so I am going back to normal 240 mm shock and -2 degree head angle cups.

 

[tosam]

Some photo of my Sunday with the RC4 and BOS linkage

 

[Lou Percarpio]

Just picked up this Sunday. It's in great shape and was barely ridden. Now what to do with it
first?