[Old_Dude]

Note - I'm converting a hard tail to a road bike (because my R800 was stolen four days after I bought it and then I lost my job - so, yes, I realize this is a stupid idea). I've already got IRC Metro tires, a decent saddle, Shimano 515's, Avid Rollamajig, cyclocomputer.

Okay, so the road handlebars arrived and they actually fit my stem - great, no problem.

As I was assembling my brake/shifters to the new bar, it became immediately obvious the diameter of the brake/shifter mounting collar was smaller than the diameter of the road handlebar.

Would it damage my current brake/shifter collars to open them up enough to slide onto my road bars? I think I can open the collars enough to slide them onto the bars without too much problem, however, I don't want them to break or be weakened by doing this.

My goal is to get a more wind-resistant position on the bike. I've already rotated the handlebars in the stem so they're as down and as forward as possible. This helps, but I still find myself bending my elbows to tuck a lot - with the stock, wide bar, I can only keep this up for about a mile or so before it really gets tiring. Should I give up on the road handlebar and just flip the stem (just another idea).

Thanks very much,

OD

 

[Old_Dude]

Not like anyone really cares, but I here's the bike in progress - I gave up on trying to make my ATB shifter/brake collars fit the road handlebars - after carefully prying open the collar to enlarge it to fit, it was obvious the alignment of the screw holes would never allow the collar to be used on my road handlebar.

So, I did the following:

- flipped the stem
- put on a shorter bar and rotated to the lowest, most forward position
- put on some bar ends and trimmed them and positioned them to look like this (see photo below
- taped up the grips and "thing" in the middle

What a monster - I'm hoping to sell my motorcycle leathers, boots and helmets so I can get a deposit for a real road bike soon. For now, this'll just have to do.

 

[greasemonkey]

as the song goes: road and mountain shifter DNA, just don't splice (la la laaa)

i do this sort of conversion a lot for people riding mountain bikes for touring or long rides (like STP)

a shorter, lower stem doesn't really get you down lower. it mainly just puts more weight on your hands and makes you uncomfortable (as you've noticed). if you want a more aero position, scoot your seat back and use a slightly lower stem of regular length. or, use a longer stem of equal or slightly less height. or, use a lower stem and bar ends.

it will feel like you're too far forward when you just sit on the bike, but once you're pedaling steady, your legs transfer most of your upper body weight into the pedals and you'll actually find less weight on your hands. it's also more efficient pedaling position.

to see what am talking about... make an "A" shape with your hands (this represents your back and arms when you're on the bike). notice how the height of the tip of the A changes more as you move the bottom ends further apart or closer together, than when you just move one end up or down. if you move one leg of the A down *and* toward the other leg (like you did with the shorter, lower stem), height doesn't change much at all... it just puts one end closer to the center of gravity, so more weight rests on it.

you need to go longer to get aero comfortably. notice how far forward the hand positions are on road bikes - they're several inches in front of the stem this gets you down lower, without putting too much more weight on your hands. it also bends your waist more, which puts your hamstrings and butt (biggest muscles in your legs) in a better working position. scooting the seat back adds to that effect while taking even more weight off your hands. scooting it forward opens up your waist angle, and adds in more quads.


anyway, Jo Klieber (the guy behind Syntace stuff) really demonstrated this to me at the show in Vegas. once you get the concept, it makes it easy to get many different comfortable position changes on any bike, once you find one comfortable position to start from.

 

[the BIG cheese]

lol, not at your preditament, but that is the strangest thignive ever seen done to a bike, looks like aero bars, cool

 

[crono35]

hm, is it possible to run mountain rims on road forks? will the brakes actually be able to reach the rim when they'reo n the post? if so i might wanna convert my old HT into a singlespeed road bike...

 

[Shibby]

ah... i have found my people...

i have to get a pic of my singlespeed up here, it is such an odd conglomeration of mountain bike parts, slick out back and knobbie up front. i think i'll take over Old_Dude's thread for a moment and post the spec i have too much spare time

trek 930 19" frame (blue)
fsa pig bmx headset (baby blue)
tange/trek rigid fork (black)
silver stem
specialized riser bar (black)
Redline bmx saddle (blue/black)
LX cranks & BB w/32t ring
Schwinn XS flat pedals
bmx chain
xtr 14t cog & a bunch of spacers
surly singleator
wheels: lx hubs (yes, with a 9spd cassette hub out back) with a mavic x221 (front) and sun rhyno lite (rear), 14g spokes & brass nips. specialized nimbus tire in back, tioga psycho ripoff tire up front.

it's basically my road bike, used for going to school too. probably the closest i'll get to a pavement-only machine for quite a while. sprints like a dream though. i really must get a picture.

old_dude, i hope you find a comfy position for yourself on your trek. the metro tires are awesome (little known fact: they also make them in 24x2"!), and i kinda dig the bar.

if you still want to use the road bar, the integrated shifter/brake lever things aren't too pricey i don't think (105 level?)

 

[Shibby]

Originally posted by crono35
hm, is it possible to run mountain rims on road forks? will the brakes actually be able to reach the rim when they'reo n the post? if so i might wanna convert my old HT into a singlespeed road bike...

probably better off with an aluminum rigid mtn fork

i don't think they reach, in any case.