Tuning blackbox speedstack in boxxer wc/team
- Thread starter Udi
- Start date
Great thread, I recently bought a new old stock Boxxer Team 06. I'm pretty lightweight with 145 lbs. Before the first ride I disassembled the lowers, and lubed the seals with some Rock'N'Roll super slick lube. I made this for a better performance in a "breaking in" time. After few rides the fork feels to harsh for me with 0 clicks of LSC, max open gate and medium spring. The fork is breaking in but I bought a soft spring and waiting for it at the moment. I think it would help a little. It hard to tell how much it helps. I like plush ride without any spiking so I would like to ask you guys, should I try to remove some shims from Blackbox speedstack? If so, how much? I'm considering 1 or 2.
Don't do that... Use fork oil.
Grease dissolves with oil, leaving a soap like residue that has high friction.
It won't hurt anything, but it will not be as good as oil.
darex -
At 145 you do need the soft spring, that's probably the first change to make. My advice would be remove the speedstack altogether - you can undo the entire core with a 1/2" socket wrench (long fitting) and then you'll want to unscrew all the speedstack components from the blue hex core (simple) and then reinstall the blue hex the same way it came out. With that done and the soft spring in, you can probably run some LSC to control the fork attitude in corners etc, for someone like you who seems to like a soft fork, I'd suggest 3 clicks back from closed on LSC, and about 3 clicks in from open on the floodgate. Those settings are only for after the soft spring is in and the speedstack is out though.
Also, for lubrication, use a good silicone grease to pack between the dust wiper and seals (the rock n roll sounds fine), don't be afraid to get a little below that and on the upper bushing too. And then use a fairly thick oil in each lower leg for bushing lubrication - 15ml per leg is the recommendation, but I'd recommend running 30ml in the spring leg because the spring grease tends to absorb some oil leaving that leg dry. 15-20ml is the maximum for the damper leg though (and air spring leg on boxxer WC) because of reduced volume in that side of the fork.
Finally, be sure to compress the lowers halfway with the damper/spring rods pushed into the fork lowers to allow excess air to escape before installing/doing up the footbolts. On the spring fork you may have to undo the spring topcap before doing this, and do it up again after you've done everything and done up the footbolts.
I know that's a mouthful but it'll probably cover everything you need.
El Warpo -
Oil doesn't reach the area between the seal and wiper, because the seal is a pressure seal and prevents oil from going past it. The area definitely needs lots of grease (not oil, which has no staying power) and a smooth running motion control fork (hell, any fork really) depends on it. Also, for the record - in my experience oil and grease don't create anything I'd class as "high friction" together, I've only really allowed the aforementioned silicone grease and fork oil to mix before though - and in that instance, nothing wrong with it. I think for friction to actually increase (and not decrease) compared to the stock grease you'd need some whack combo of chemicals.
At 145 you do need the soft spring, that's probably the first change to make. My advice would be remove the speedstack altogether - you can undo the entire core with a 1/2" socket wrench (long fitting) and then you'll want to unscrew all the speedstack components from the blue hex core (simple) and then reinstall the blue hex the same way it came out. With that done and the soft spring in, you can probably run some LSC to control the fork attitude in corners etc, for someone like you who seems to like a soft fork, I'd suggest 3 clicks back from closed on LSC, and about 3 clicks in from open on the floodgate. Those settings are only for after the soft spring is in and the speedstack is out though.
Also, for lubrication, use a good silicone grease to pack between the dust wiper and seals (the rock n roll sounds fine), don't be afraid to get a little below that and on the upper bushing too. And then use a fairly thick oil in each lower leg for bushing lubrication - 15ml per leg is the recommendation, but I'd recommend running 30ml in the spring leg because the spring grease tends to absorb some oil leaving that leg dry. 15-20ml is the maximum for the damper leg though (and air spring leg on boxxer WC) because of reduced volume in that side of the fork.
Finally, be sure to compress the lowers halfway with the damper/spring rods pushed into the fork lowers to allow excess air to escape before installing/doing up the footbolts. On the spring fork you may have to undo the spring topcap before doing this, and do it up again after you've done everything and done up the footbolts.
I know that's a mouthful but it'll probably cover everything you need.
El Warpo -
Oil doesn't reach the area between the seal and wiper, because the seal is a pressure seal and prevents oil from going past it. The area definitely needs lots of grease (not oil, which has no staying power) and a smooth running motion control fork (hell, any fork really) depends on it. Also, for the record - in my experience oil and grease don't create anything I'd class as "high friction" together, I've only really allowed the aforementioned silicone grease and fork oil to mix before though - and in that instance, nothing wrong with it. I think for friction to actually increase (and not decrease) compared to the stock grease you'd need some whack combo of chemicals.
I've used Manitou's prepM in between the seal and dust wiper and there is noticeable slipperiness to the fork.
Thanks.
Well, silicone grease is slightly different to average grease. It actually is harder to dissolve in oil.... so much that is what Manitou uses to keep their SPV valves from sticking. And we've used it on field on hydrocarbon handling stuff.
I've had those soap like residues from grease on both Magura and Marzocchi forks before... mind you, those were open bath.
Agreed that oil doesn't stick very well to the upper area of the lowers... But then you can use a thicker oil and lift the front wheel before a run, so everything is nice and smooth.
Oh, well... another way to skin the cat.
I'll give a go to the silicone grease, as I'm now on a MoCo fork.
My 2006 boxxer team is pissing oil out of the MC adjuster knob, anyone know what is causing this?
I rebuitl the entire fork according to the directions on the SRAM site but nothing happened. I know it is beccause in the rebuild they do not have you disassemble the MC unit. Anyone have instructions for that?
I rebuitl the entire fork according to the directions on the SRAM site but nothing happened. I know it is beccause in the rebuild they do not have you disassemble the MC unit. Anyone have instructions for that?
It's pictured earlier in this thread, but theres really no harm in taking it apart yourself, just be ready by having a clean table like area with no cracks for the little indexing bearings and springs to fall into. the metal cap with the threads screws into the plastic moco spring body with reverse threads. the silver LSC plate on the bottem doesnt come out, its pressed into the aluminum guide hold inside the body - so don't try and remove it lol.
Hey Udi....first of all thanks for starting this thread! Although it went sideways to what you we're asking it's proving very informative!
I have a question for you. I to weigh in at about 145lbs. What LSC/HSC settings would you suggest if i we're to keep the Speedstack in? I am running a soft spring as of tonight and am just curious? At the moment, i'm at LSC-2 clockwise in/ HSC- 23 (out of i counted 33 increments) in clockwise?
Cheers
I have a question for you. I to weigh in at about 145lbs. What LSC/HSC settings would you suggest if i we're to keep the Speedstack in? I am running a soft spring as of tonight and am just curious? At the moment, i'm at LSC-2 clockwise in/ HSC- 23 (out of i counted 33 increments) in clockwise?
Cheers
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I'd go to 4 clicks in on the LSC and back the floodgate out to about 6-8 clicks in. Should give you plenty of LSC without too much HSC harshness... however I'd still recommend pulling the stack out.
I blew the main MoCo pressure seal on the new, revised compression cartridge yesterday. Granted, it's lasted me since August last year in this configuration, as opposed to the old version that lasted about two weeks but, still, I'm once again cursing Rock Shox.
I have a theory though. Once it was blown, I noticed that, after a run, the oil around the seal would continue to bubble up to 30 minutes after completing a run. Shortly before the seal blew I had noticed the fork was lacking in suppleness over small, high speed bumps, despite changing the oil and wiper seals and putting fresh oil in the lubrication bath. I'm wondering if the MoCo assembly is prone to drawing air in similar to Marzocchi forks of the past, causing a build up of pressure. Eventually the pressure gets so great that the seal pops. Just a theory, but when I get it sorted, I'm going to make an effort to periodically vent the MoCo cartridge to see if I get any pressure build-up.
I have a theory though. Once it was blown, I noticed that, after a run, the oil around the seal would continue to bubble up to 30 minutes after completing a run. Shortly before the seal blew I had noticed the fork was lacking in suppleness over small, high speed bumps, despite changing the oil and wiper seals and putting fresh oil in the lubrication bath. I'm wondering if the MoCo assembly is prone to drawing air in similar to Marzocchi forks of the past, causing a build up of pressure. Eventually the pressure gets so great that the seal pops. Just a theory, but when I get it sorted, I'm going to make an effort to periodically vent the MoCo cartridge to see if I get any pressure build-up.
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Hello Udi and others for creating this informative thread.
I just purchased a new 07 Boxxer WC. From the first ride, I got some oil weeping from the floodgate knob. I have read that this is a common issue with the earlier 07 models. Will the replacement parts fix this or is this an issue that will pop up over and over ? When I turn the floodgate knob fully counter-clockwise, I get a slight hissing for a moment. Is this related the the post above mine ?
Other questions:
-No lsc means that it will never go into hsc circuit regardless of riding conditions correct ?
-How many clicks in lsc does it take before the floodgate adjust works ?
-Under what conditions do I want the damping to blow off into hsc ? My understanding is that hsc is LESS damping than lsc correct ? How easy do I want the damping to blow off to hsc ? drops and big bumps ? brake bumps ?
-From that question, with an unmodified fork, how much lsc and how many clicks from easiest blowoff on the gate should I be running to smooth out braking bumps ?
-I ride machine built groomed whistler trails (a-line mostly) that have large smooth jumps with smooth trail, but violent brake bumps. I would like to isolate my hands from the bumps as much as possible without blowing through my suspension during jump takeoffs.
I weigh around 185 pounds with gear and run the fork with 2" sag standing in a neutral position.
Will pulling out the stack offer a noticable improvement over brake bumps while still allowing me to send off of large table jumps ? Also, will removing the stack void my warranty ?
I just purchased a new 07 Boxxer WC. From the first ride, I got some oil weeping from the floodgate knob. I have read that this is a common issue with the earlier 07 models. Will the replacement parts fix this or is this an issue that will pop up over and over ? When I turn the floodgate knob fully counter-clockwise, I get a slight hissing for a moment. Is this related the the post above mine ?
Other questions:
-No lsc means that it will never go into hsc circuit regardless of riding conditions correct ?
-How many clicks in lsc does it take before the floodgate adjust works ?
-Under what conditions do I want the damping to blow off into hsc ? My understanding is that hsc is LESS damping than lsc correct ? How easy do I want the damping to blow off to hsc ? drops and big bumps ? brake bumps ?
-From that question, with an unmodified fork, how much lsc and how many clicks from easiest blowoff on the gate should I be running to smooth out braking bumps ?
-I ride machine built groomed whistler trails (a-line mostly) that have large smooth jumps with smooth trail, but violent brake bumps. I would like to isolate my hands from the bumps as much as possible without blowing through my suspension during jump takeoffs.
I weigh around 185 pounds with gear and run the fork with 2" sag standing in a neutral position.
Will pulling out the stack offer a noticable improvement over brake bumps while still allowing me to send off of large table jumps ? Also, will removing the stack void my warranty ?
Late reply sorry.
- The floodgate leak you can fix yourself, I made a thread on here about it if you do a search.
- No LSC means no HSC for the most part. I mean given a fast enough impact to cause a spike through the fully open LSC port, then yes you'll break into HSC but it won't be likely, or noticeable enough to be worth talking about IMO.
- The floodgate adjuster controls how fast a hit you need (or how much of a spike you need) before the damper starts its HSC curve (damping regressing). Therefore it'll work at any compression setting, but it'll only do anything noticeable when you're running at least 2-clicks-back-from-closed of LSC. 3 at the very least.
- Damping always increases as shaft speed increases (or it should, anyway). In a pure LSC (or ported) damper, the curve will be progressive.. this will cause spikes at high speed. So we want the curve to regress (ie. not progressive, not linear). This regression is HSC. See pic... curve A is a ported damper, whereas the bold line shows a variable aperture damper (stage 1 is LSC, stage 2 is HSC).
- I'd start with 2-clicks-back-from-closed on LSC, and 5-clicks-in-from-fully-open on floodgate. I talk in clicks back for LSC because it's more accurate (as some dampers have 6 or 7 clicks total, it varies).
- Removing stack shouldn't void warranty, as the race doesn't have one at all (pretty much the same damper otherwise).
Probably not very differently, I discovered recently that the speedstack has a ridiculous amount of bypass (glidering doesn't seal properly, shim config allows bypass, return valve allows bypass) so it's probably never going to spike and provide damping. That's probably a good thing.
Personally I'd take the whole thing out (put the blue hex core back in though), you'll save some weight and prevent any chance of it causing issues with damping.
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Great thread guys. I currently have an 03 Race (the worst Boxxer ever made?...) but I plan to get a 06+ Team in the not too distant future and I have been messing around with the settings on a mates set.
Just a couple of questions:
1) I hear that the rebound adjuster tends to unwind itself, and that TF Tuned can stop that when they do a service. Has anyone ever done this themselves? I don't know what the internals are like but I'm guessing it could be done with an o-ring or washer somewhere?
2) Whats this about air build up in the fork? I've had it before with my Races but I've never half compressed them when reuilding or whatever. Do you periodically let air out of the top caps or the bolts at the foot of the lowers?
3) Is the floodgate adjuster meant to be indexed? The one on my mates isn't, is this a problem?
4) Kind of theoretical, but would there ever be a situation where you would want to run the floodgate cranked down? Maybe if you were at the upper limits of a spring weight or something?
Cheers,
Mark
Just a couple of questions:
1) I hear that the rebound adjuster tends to unwind itself, and that TF Tuned can stop that when they do a service. Has anyone ever done this themselves? I don't know what the internals are like but I'm guessing it could be done with an o-ring or washer somewhere?
2) Whats this about air build up in the fork? I've had it before with my Races but I've never half compressed them when reuilding or whatever. Do you periodically let air out of the top caps or the bolts at the foot of the lowers?
3) Is the floodgate adjuster meant to be indexed? The one on my mates isn't, is this a problem?
4) Kind of theoretical, but would there ever be a situation where you would want to run the floodgate cranked down? Maybe if you were at the upper limits of a spring weight or something?
Cheers,
Mark
Rebound adjuster doesn't unwind itself on any of the boxxers I've had (I've had about 6-7 now between 06 and 08). I've heard of before but I'd definitely forget about it unless you actually have an issue. No problems here.
Air doesn't really build up in the fork IMO, but usually from factory there will be too much air in the lowers because they are installed at full extension. If you compress the fork half way (with the pumping rods pushed into the lowers, with a bolt or whatever so the air can escape) before tightening the footbolts into the rods, the fork will be more linear and you'll have less difficulty using all the travel.
The motion control forks are different in that the stanchion is sealed off from the lower (damper and spring side on WC, damper side only on team/race), so you can't burp via top cap in that case.
If you grab the manual it'll explain everything. Floodgate should be indexed, on the new 08 forks it's a little harder to feel the indexing as they have tighter seals, but yep all (boxxer) floodgates are indexed. I can't think of any situation where you'd run the floodgate cranked down. If you're at the upper limits of a spring weight you might run more LSC, but running the floodgate cranked will just make the fork harsh over bumps... it should be run at the minimum end of the scale, you'd just alternate between 2-10 clicks in (or thereabouts) depending on body weight. I always had about 5-6.
Air doesn't really build up in the fork IMO, but usually from factory there will be too much air in the lowers because they are installed at full extension. If you compress the fork half way (with the pumping rods pushed into the lowers, with a bolt or whatever so the air can escape) before tightening the footbolts into the rods, the fork will be more linear and you'll have less difficulty using all the travel.
The motion control forks are different in that the stanchion is sealed off from the lower (damper and spring side on WC, damper side only on team/race), so you can't burp via top cap in that case.
If you grab the manual it'll explain everything. Floodgate should be indexed, on the new 08 forks it's a little harder to feel the indexing as they have tighter seals, but yep all (boxxer) floodgates are indexed. I can't think of any situation where you'd run the floodgate cranked down. If you're at the upper limits of a spring weight you might run more LSC, but running the floodgate cranked will just make the fork harsh over bumps... it should be run at the minimum end of the scale, you'd just alternate between 2-10 clicks in (or thereabouts) depending on body weight. I always had about 5-6.
UDI if the glidering in the Speedstack doesn't work then would an O-ring in place of it help? Whats the purpose of the glidering exactly?
Ah I think the conclusion drawn a long time ago in this thread is that the speedstack is only going to be detrimental to the damper, so from a performance standpoint I'd suggest either being happy with the speedstack not doing much, or getting rid of it to make sure. 
I've been reading this thread as I am getting an early 09 boxxer race (08 boxxer in a different color) for a Sunday that I am building for next year. I have read in a couple of places that the 09 race has internally adjustable floodgate, does this mean that SRAM already has an internal adjuster installed? or are people just refering to the mod Udi came up with here?
hey!
Got a little question.
how to soften the MCU spring? i think its one of the best ways to increase the boxxers damping performance...
Got a little question.
how to soften the MCU spring? i think its one of the best ways to increase the boxxers damping performance...
Why not just remove your shim stack and fine tune your floodgate / adjust its range with additional shims if you find the minimum setting too stiff? If you have already done this and feel you need even less damping, you may try to drill larger holes in plastic tube.
Put simply, spiking is what happens when the damper can't flow a sufficient amount of oil to deal with an impact, transferring the force to the rider and/or resulting in reduced traction. Usually this will happen at higher shaft speeds, i.e. blasting through rocks/roots/bumps etc.
You obviously want some resistance rather than completely free oil flow, that's what damping is - but ideally, this damping mechanism should be able to vary itself depending on shaft speed (or in laymans terms - impact type; eg rocks/bumps or cornering/g-out forces). This speed dependant variablity (at least when tuned properly) will reduce chances of having an excess of damping (spiking) on different types of impacts.
You obviously want some resistance rather than completely free oil flow, that's what damping is - but ideally, this damping mechanism should be able to vary itself depending on shaft speed (or in laymans terms - impact type; eg rocks/bumps or cornering/g-out forces). This speed dependant variablity (at least when tuned properly) will reduce chances of having an excess of damping (spiking) on different types of impacts.
Right on, so you say when I hit a square edge hit like a solid slab of rock or root etc after my fork has completely ramped up and it almost feels like it hits solid, would that be spiking? Im not talking about complete bottom out, I mean it almost feels like the suspension is eating everything then certain terrain such as what I described almost lock the fork out in a sense.
I've read this thread so many times since buying my Boxxer Race last April, but there's a couple of things I'd like clearing up if possible.
I weigh 155lbs and run the soft spring and the lsc 2 clicks back from fully closed, I've also done the nyloc nut floodgate mod, I rebuilt the fork and installed the foot nuts with the lowers compressed.
If I run no lsc I can bottom the fork out pretty easily(I can't ride the fork this way anymore, the front just feels unstable like its going to wash out on me), with 5 clicks I never use more than half the travel but it does feel good, at 6 and 7 clicks of compression the fork locks out, if I backed off the floodgate some more would I use more travel and would the last two clicks of lsc be usable or do I need a lighter spring?
The next question is perhaps slightly off topic but i've also just bought a wc solo air spring and top cap, am I right in that the spring washer goes above the plastic piece held in by the circlip in the bottom of the stanchion? Where does the normal washer go? Just this sit on top or underneath the spring washer?
Any help much appreciated!
I weigh 155lbs and run the soft spring and the lsc 2 clicks back from fully closed, I've also done the nyloc nut floodgate mod, I rebuilt the fork and installed the foot nuts with the lowers compressed.
If I run no lsc I can bottom the fork out pretty easily(I can't ride the fork this way anymore, the front just feels unstable like its going to wash out on me), with 5 clicks I never use more than half the travel but it does feel good, at 6 and 7 clicks of compression the fork locks out, if I backed off the floodgate some more would I use more travel and would the last two clicks of lsc be usable or do I need a lighter spring?
The next question is perhaps slightly off topic but i've also just bought a wc solo air spring and top cap, am I right in that the spring washer goes above the plastic piece held in by the circlip in the bottom of the stanchion? Where does the normal washer go? Just this sit on top or underneath the spring washer?
Any help much appreciated!
It's fairly hard to analyse this sort of thing over the internet unfortunately, as given the lack of granularity in the current boxxer LSC adjuster, small differences in how the motion control cartridge is assembled can mean big differences in the amount of damping for a given number of clicks. Two clicks back *should* be in the ballpark but it's so hard to tell from here.
Do the air conversion first as it'll give you more fine tunability. Start with the fork at 120-130psi, make sure you force it to topout by hand a few times while pumping it up to ensure the chambers equalize (you'll notice pressure drop when this happens).
Double check the service manual (available on sram site if not linked here) but off the top of my head, yes the spring washer goes above the lower plastic piece. The normal (gold/silver) washer is used on both sides of the fork, and basically it sits in the base of the stanchion before sliding (respectively) the damper or spring cartridge in.
A lighter floodgate setting will simply make the damping regress more easily given a fast impact (ie. bumps), if you are only using half the travel, messing with the floodgate isn't the solution. To change this, you'll need to play with a combination of spring pressure, lower pressure (different amounts of compression before tightening footnuts), and LSC. You can fine tune LSC with oil weight. Stock oil is 16cSt I believe. I'm running Silkolene 5wt (26cSt I believe).
But honestly, putting in the air spring and playing with pressure might be all the help you need. Good luck!
Do the air conversion first as it'll give you more fine tunability. Start with the fork at 120-130psi, make sure you force it to topout by hand a few times while pumping it up to ensure the chambers equalize (you'll notice pressure drop when this happens).
Double check the service manual (available on sram site if not linked here) but off the top of my head, yes the spring washer goes above the lower plastic piece. The normal (gold/silver) washer is used on both sides of the fork, and basically it sits in the base of the stanchion before sliding (respectively) the damper or spring cartridge in.
A lighter floodgate setting will simply make the damping regress more easily given a fast impact (ie. bumps), if you are only using half the travel, messing with the floodgate isn't the solution. To change this, you'll need to play with a combination of spring pressure, lower pressure (different amounts of compression before tightening footnuts), and LSC. You can fine tune LSC with oil weight. Stock oil is 16cSt I believe. I'm running Silkolene 5wt (26cSt I believe).
But honestly, putting in the air spring and playing with pressure might be all the help you need. Good luck!
This is probably the right place to ask I reckon.
Does anybody have any info on the new boxxer race? Did RS add an internal floodgate to the new boxxer, is this what they call internal preload? Or will you still have to mod it, or is this even possible?
I know this is probably a little bit preliminary as I don't think anybody has the fork in there hands, but maybe somebody here is really special.
Does anybody have any info on the new boxxer race? Did RS add an internal floodgate to the new boxxer, is this what they call internal preload? Or will you still have to mod it, or is this even possible?
I know this is probably a little bit preliminary as I don't think anybody has the fork in there hands, but maybe somebody here is really special.
good read, but I couldn't find anything on the floodgate, did I miss something? But judging by how it isn't in their tuning manual, I doubt it is in their fork. So I take it you'll have to find a way to make an internal floodgate like on the old ones.
Udi, you seem to know your stuff, want to elaborate on this please?
Udi, you seem to know your stuff, want to elaborate on this please?
Hey,
I thought I'd post this in here instead of starting a new topic. Basically, just built up some Boxxers consisting of 05 lowers and 06 Team stanchions and MC damping gubbins. They work great when riding, but they seem to have 5-10mm at the start of the travel that isn't damped and its hard to tell if it's even sprung. I think there may be a slight clicking/knocking noise as well, although I have to admit the bearings in my front hub are a bit knackered which is making diagnosis difficult.
I have tried putting in a load of preload spacers, so much so that it was hard to get the cap back on, but it doesn't seem to change the 'loose' travel. I have taken it apart twice as well to check everything is as it is in the manual, and interestingly with the stanchion out of the lower I can't really feel the looseness any more. It is pretty easy to move the push rod at the start of the travel as you might expect, but its doesn't feel as if it moves quite as easily or as unsprung as when it's in the fork.
I have searched the forums here and read that a few people have had this problem with their Teams, but there haven't been any replies other than check the preload. I would be grateful if anyone could offer some advice.
Cheers,
Mark
I thought I'd post this in here instead of starting a new topic. Basically, just built up some Boxxers consisting of 05 lowers and 06 Team stanchions and MC damping gubbins. They work great when riding, but they seem to have 5-10mm at the start of the travel that isn't damped and its hard to tell if it's even sprung. I think there may be a slight clicking/knocking noise as well, although I have to admit the bearings in my front hub are a bit knackered which is making diagnosis difficult.
I have tried putting in a load of preload spacers, so much so that it was hard to get the cap back on, but it doesn't seem to change the 'loose' travel. I have taken it apart twice as well to check everything is as it is in the manual, and interestingly with the stanchion out of the lower I can't really feel the looseness any more. It is pretty easy to move the push rod at the start of the travel as you might expect, but its doesn't feel as if it moves quite as easily or as unsprung as when it's in the fork.
I have searched the forums here and read that a few people have had this problem with their Teams, but there haven't been any replies other than check the preload. I would be grateful if anyone could offer some advice.
Cheers,
Mark
I had the same issue after a few months of not riding, and the reason was the O-Ring on the bottom of the damper was leaking. My guess is there is not enough oil in the damper. You can check this out by turning up the compression and floodgate to the max (locking the fork). If there is still some undamped travel than that's your problem. Add some oil and it'll be back to normal.
I've got a 2009 Race and I just installed the nyloc nut, having the silver plate sitting out 1 mm and then winded in the nut for 1 turn.
After reinstalling the moco unit on the bike I noticed that now the compression seems not to change at all from fully open to fully closed (no more lockout on the last two clicks).
Should I wind in the nyloc nut a little bit more to have the lsc working again?
Attachments
Of course I noticed that but I wanted to start from the position equal to zero floodgate and I can't understand if it's that of 2/3 turns or the one with the silver plate sitting out 1 mm from the blue piston.
My question for team/wc owners: does the blue knob lock out the fork even with the floodgate adjuster turned all the way to " - " ?
I had the same issue after a few months of not riding, and the reason was the O-Ring on the bottom of the damper was leaking. My guess is there is not enough oil in the damper. You can check this out by turning up the compression and floodgate to the max (locking the fork). If there is still some undamped travel than that's your problem. Add some oil and it'll be back to normal.
Hi,
Fairly sure I have the right amount of oil in there, I used a decent measuring cylinder and I while I had the fork off to check the spring side I took the damper out to check the oil height, it seemed fine. I will give turning the compression up a shot and post up what I find though, cheers.
The thread pitch where the nut goes is 0.75mm. So if the silver plate is 1mm out, you will need to wind the nut in 1.3 turns for zero floodgate. At zero floodgate or thereabouts there will be little to no LSC as you have found, as the LSC port has effectively blown off (or is just about to) and all the oil is bypassing it.
You'd be better off winding it in too far and then backing it off half a turn at a time imho.