[LordOpie]

I just met a dude riding who frequents thrift and used goods stores. He's got several bikes from them and offered to sell me one.

As I understand it, the rear drop-out spacing as widened over the years, yeah? I'd strip down the bike and build it up with 9sp 105, so how wide does it need to be?

Has the BB shell changed?

I know they've gone from threaded to threadless, but I think I could still buy that stuff these days new, correct?

Has seat-tube diameters changed?

What else might have changed on an old frame and fork that I should keep an eye out for that might prevent me from using new components?

TIA!

 

[wooglin]

9sp takes 130mm dropouts, and older bikes ran 126mm. But if its a steel frame you can get it cold set to the wider spacing.

BBs are the same mostly, as long as its not a French bike. You can still get French stuff but its a pain. I'd stay away from it. I'm assuming the bike will have standard (basically modern) cranks, not cottered or 1-piece. Stay away from them too.

1" threaded HSs are still available and good. Ultegras work great.

Don't get anything with 27" wheels. Stick to 700c. Much less hassle in the long run.

Seatpost diameters are also the same. They varied some then and they vary some now. Don't sweat it.

Are you going to get a good look at this before buying? Look for creases or paint blemishes under the down tube up near the head tube junction. Those indicate crashes and bent frames. Also hopefully the frame will match the fork. If not, that may also signal a crash (though maybe not). Lastly, ride the bike. Try it no handed. Does it track straight? That's good. If not, the frame may be tweaked. Check to make sure the wheels are in straight and try it again. Take the seat post out, just to make sure its not frozen in there, too. That'd be a real bummer.

As a general rule of thumb I'm not a fan of thrift store bikes. There are some real gems out there, but most were junk when they were first made and are junk now. If you can get it, post up the make and model you're looking at.

 

[LordOpie]

Thanks bro! Excellent info.

How much work/money is involved in cold setting?

 

[wooglin]

Thanks bro! Excellent info.

How much work/money is involved in cold setting?

From 126 to 130? Unless this is the thrift store find of the century, just jam it in there and ride.

 

[Pau11y]

From 126 to 130? Unless this is the thrift store find of the century, just jam it in there and ride.

That's another thing. When you jam it in there check frame alignment w/ a dished and true wheel. If it sit's crooked in the splayed out rear triangle, stay away from that frame. What that tells me is both sides aren't flexing equally and it may be due to some wacky fatiguing.
A lot of older bikes are lugged. See if you can see a brand name on the lugs and dropouts which will tell you whoever built the thing had spent a bit of money on the parts and raw materials.
Thrift store find of the century are rare, but do happen. How kewl would it be to find an old Pinarello, De Rosa or Colnago, then restore it
A find like that you take to a frame builder and have him/her either coldset or rebraze to the 130mm spacing. Shouldn't cost more than $50.00 for coldset and $100.00 for rebrazing. You might also need some other metal work done while at it. Then you send it to AirGlow and have it repainted w/ polished/lined lugs, chromed stays and candied paint. Then you hang some 2005 and carbon parts on it and make it a neo-retro

 

[Serial Midget]

Don't buy any bike that does not have the original tube type and maker on it. Look for 3Rensho if you can. Late 70s and early 80s Japanese lightweights are just now becoming appreciated.