[MtnBikerChk]

Ok, I need to build IAB a new front wheel. I have the Jobst Brandt book, a dishing tool, truing stand, a spoke wrench and an xt hub.

Although some of the book made me yawn and lose interest, here's what I got out of it:

Rim - aluminum. What Mavic rim for IAB - he's a masher and a hucker.

Spokes - Stainless steel DTs. Straight are easier to work with and swaged are more durable but harder to true. Which kind should I get?

Nipples - brass

 

[Quo Fan]

I use 14g straight spokes for all my disc rims. I don't like butted spokes because to me, they aren't as strong. As you tension the wheel, keep releasing the spoke wind-up by grabbing spoke pairs all the way around the wheel. Use some spoke prep and that helps with the wind-up. I also put a drop of lube on the nipple at the eyelet to aid in the nipple turning, especially when the wheel gets tensioned.

I hope I didn't throw too much info at you.

Good luck!

 

[MtnBikerChk]

I use 14g straight spokes for all my disc rims. I don't like butted spokes because to me, they aren't as strong. As you tension the wheel, keep releasing the spoke wind-up by grabbing spoke pairs all the way around the wheel. Use some spoke prep and that helps with the wind-up. I also put a drop of lube on the nipple at the eyelet to aid in the nipple turning, especially when the wheel gets tensioned.

I hope I didn't throw too much info at you.

Good luck!

I'm leaing that way anyway. Good info - thanks.

New plan though - in the interest of time, we're going to get IAB a new wheel and then I'm going to make a set to have as backups so we don't keep having this problem of NO WHEEL when one is out of commission.

So same rules apply - GO.....!

 

[Quo Fan]

I've been building wheels for a couple of years, and I can get a wheel done, parts to trued, in about 2 hours. Your first one will take longer, because you are trying to be extra careful as to not screw up anything.

 

[sanjuro]

I used Jobst Brandt's method, and I am not bad at building wheels now.

BTW, I recommend DB spokes for most people under 250lbs. I find you get a little more tension, which is the key to building wheels.

 

[caputo1989]

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

 

[Dartman]

Couple tips not in the "books"

- Get comfortable and don't be in a hurry. Wheelbuilding to me is a very "in the moment" kind of thing. This is the main reason to use a truing stand. I've successfully built wheels in the bike frame but it's not as comfortable.

- When lacing the wheel, slide your thumbnail up the spoke until it hits the threads then spin the nipple down until it rests against it. This quickly gives an even starting point.

- When building tension work slowly, start at the valve hole give each nipple 1/2 turn and leave all in the same orientation so the spoke wrench finds them easier as you go. Use a three corner wrench like a "Spokey" to prevent rounded off nipples.

- Try to keep the wheel "round" during this phase and it'll make it easier to true later.

After a few wheels you'll develop a "feel" for the pressure you're putting on the wrench to let you know when you are approaching correct and even tension. A tensiometer isn't necessary but helps.

Enjoy!!

 

[MtnBikerChk]

So now I've got a new rim. My shop said if I want, I can just zip tie the old rim to the new one and then move over the spokes 1 at a time and then I don't have to worry about lacing them!

Sounds like a good idea to me for my first one

 

[Quo Fan]

That's the method I used the first time I laced a rim. I replaced a taco'd rim and taped the new rim to the old one and moved spokes hole for hole. I didn't have a truing stand at the time, but the bike I had had rim brakes, so I could use the brakes as a centering gauge.

When you finally decide to lace your first wheel, get comfortable, and go slowly. Do things in complete circles, meaning do everything all the way around the wheel before stopping. Always start and stop at the valve hole, so you know you've done a complete revolution.

Good luck.

 

[Dartman]

So now I've got a new rim. My shop said if I want, I can just zip tie the old rim to the new one and then move over the spokes 1 at a time and then I don't have to worry about lacing them!

Sounds like a good idea to me for my first one

Good method and keeps the spokes shouldered into the hub.

You will notice that due to lacing some spokes cross on top of the other. You'll want to move these first, counting every fourth spoke untill all are moved over. It'll make more sense when you try it.

Mike

 

[MMcG]

Let us know how it all turns out MBC!

 

[-dustin]

i've never done the taping-together method. better make sure the ERD of the new rim is similart (or, the same) as the old one.