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Discussion in 'Downhill & Freeride' started by troy, Oct 23, 2017.
Which torque wrench to buy? Any recommendations?
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Don't bother getting a bike brand one hey - most are just overpriced and crap. Mine's a Norbar, which comes with a calibration cert and a good warranty. Shop around for one in the range that suits your requirements.
Also, jump on ebay and grab a set of square to hex driver adaptors. Most torque wrenches are square drive - either 1/4" or 3/8", and it is easier to use the premade adaptors for allen key bolts.
That's the adaptor style I was referring to.
I was thinking about Shimano PRO/LifeLine Proffesional torque wrench. Anyone use them? Have heard great opinions about them.
I do know that it is a re-branded one. It is a very good torque wrench tho, that's why I was asking about it. Shimano one costs basically the same in here as Lifeline/XLC and other re branded ones, so I would get the Shimano one just for the sake of eventual warranty.
I own the Pedro's Demi which IIRC is good from 3-20nm. It was on sale but still pricey ($100?) but included some bits in common bike part sizes.
I have this thing, works great for most bike related stuff https://www.amazon.com/Products-Tor...=1508769447&sr=8-9&keywords=cdi+torque+wrench
For everything else I have a 3/8" drive digital Snap-On that I did a little horse trading to get. Wouldn't spend that kind of money, but it is a nice wrench.
I've had this set for years with no issues:
Works fine, and reasonably priced....
I have an older craftsman torque wrench and it works fine, especially for a budget. http://m.sears.com/search=torque wrench
Only bad part is all of them are ft/lbs and may not work for your stem/handlbars etc. May have to have a smaller one that reads in/lbs and has a lower range.
How many of you get your ratcheting torque wrenches calibrated annually?
my shop isn't GMP so nope.
I hope you have a nice toolbox for that expensive wrench!
Next what, you are going to tell me your calipers and micrometers don't have calibration stickers either?!?!
they're labeled NFHU
I had this one too, but mine didn't work for long. Always backed it off between uses, but it lost its ability to trigger on low or medium settings.
I've found this article http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/best-torque-wrench-for-bicycle-grouptest-46517/
Shimano PRO seems like a good choice (aprox. 95$ in here). The cheapes I could find, "the same", less fancy branded - "XLC" wrench for 78$ has 2 / 2.5 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6mm allen bits and T25 torx, where the Shimano wrench has 3 / 4 / 5 / 6mm allen bits T25/T30 torxes and an extension. It looks like shimano one comes with a more useful range of bits + I suppose I don't have to worry in terms of warranty.
Alright, so I gotta ask, what are you guys torquing that you need such an exact value? Carbon bits?
I've had the old school Park TW-1 since like the 90's. I only bought that because stupid square taper bottom brackets.
I'm a lover of tools, but have had a hard time justifying a new torque wrench since I've had no symptoms of needing one. Please convince me to spend my money
I use them for -
- Suspension pivot bolts, especially if the pivots use bushings. Often times there's a specific range that keeps bolts from backing out while not adding too much friction from overloading and avoiding creaking.
- Non-Shimano crank arm bolts. I hate having crank arm bolts back out mid-ride.
- Shock hardware on some frames that are temperamental about having enough torque. This one is rare, but my Knolly Delirum needs at least 17nm on the shock hardware otherwise there's play.
I use a beam style torque wrench because I know I won't get a ratcheting one calibrated regularly.
95% suspension linkages
crank arm bolts - those are the worst to have issues with mid ride and i'll never get them tight enough with a normal sized hex wrench.
suspension pivots - too much potential for very costly issues if something loosens or backs out completely.
stem bolts - have you seen how little material there is on some stem clamping surfaces? too little range between too loose and shit starts spinning and too tight and fatiguing my lifeline.
never had issues because torque wrench - witnessed each issue numerous times because no torque wrench.
FWIW, if you do own a shop and need something like this, one of the benefits of something like Snap-On is that they would come to you and I believe they re-calibrate for free. I have a 1/2" clicker from them that wasn't that expensive relatively.
Obviously for garage wrench turners, it might not matter as much, but @troy might benefit from a truck brand for something like this. Full service is worth the extra premium sometimes.
The rest of them really are that generic, it probably wouldn't matter and there are instrument services you can either find locally or mail into for calibration.
Snap-On is about $300, and honestly cheaper if you get it off the truck. Those guys usually have leeway.
Fox transfer posts so you can drive to Watsonville and chuck the post through the window wrapped in a picture of you torquing it.
I am in the needs for one and that particular model peaks my interest .
I bought a MAC tools digital torque wrench. I wanted something accurate to torque the angular contact bearings in my Santa Cruz bikes. I no longer have that issue....
I may have bought another snap-on if my dealer wasn't a total scumbag who is unwilling to work any kind of deal. I have a snap-on digital torque/angle wrench for work (bmw stuff)
I have both a 3/8 inch pound and a 1/2" foot pound from my days working on carz - so I am covered in the shop.
However for the toolbox that goes with me to the dh place, I have one of these.
Works great for tightening the Ti bolts on my 888 after putting the front wheel back on post transport, or if I just happen to need to retorque my syntace crabon barz (deathwish approved )
Torque it nao?
I can get it done through work for free so yeah why not. It's never needed adjustment so far though.
And why do I have one? So I can submit a copy of the calibration cert with any warranty claim i need because the first thing any Aussie distro will say is that a part wasn't torqued correctly.
Truthfully, they only need to be used on a handful of applications. Most stuff just gets tightened till it feels right.
Rear axle on the Tracer
Brake calipers, and sometimes rotor bolts
Lug nuts on motor vehicles
I think my current library includes four or five torque wrenches of various capacities and drive sizes.
Okay, I get it. Now I do remember some SC Hightower owners complain that if their pivot pieces aren't exactly to spec it'll creak. So finicky. Is that what the industry has come to? What happened to "tight" or "snug"? Lawyers? Lizards?
Anyways, if I gotta make sure my water bottle mount is exactly 4.2837 n/m, I better do it.
Bikes got lighter, connection points got thinner, torque values got more important. That and carbon, carbon is finicky, and killed the titanium market, so aluminum shit got lighter and lighter to compete with teh carbonz and the good strong material was left by the wayside.
You're the asshole that writes forest service documents aren't you? The ones with no reference whatsoever to abbreviations?
no, but my industry is loaded with acronyms. we actually have a controlled document that lists what all the abbreviations are.
ahh, the CDL/AM