I thought so, very cool.
who's holdn out for new boxxer?
- Thread starter intensified
- Start date
BTI has them in stock right now.
Yeah Credit card!only 6 total that will not last long.
I'm tempted to pull the trigger for a team
Anyone else noticing the paint rubs/scratches off the crowns pretty easily? They keep getting better as they break in. Can't wait for the lifts to open.
WTF is up with the low speed compression knob being nearly impossible to turn?? I've tried several, and they're all the same. Anyone got a quick remedy for that?
I turned mine a whole bunch and it loosened up considerably
yeah they are tight at first - but the more you use it, the easier it will be to turn it.
for the first few times, make sure you wear your gloves when adjusting it
Acadian also posted the same words on another forum that is more on topic with unwanted sexual encounters.yeah they are tight at first - but the more you use it, the easier it will be to turn it on.
for the first few times, make sure you wear your gloves
$1150us.
It's just the missioncontrol assembly. I guess they overtightened it at the factory.
Just loosen it abit with the 4mm allen key, then retighten it to abit looser fit with locktight.
Just got the fork today and its installed already. Dropped my bike weight from 42.7lbs ('05 888) to 41.9lb. Install was basic. I noticed a lot of friction in the adjusters too, and hope it goes away with use. I haven't pryed the seals up to grease 'em yet, but it needs it, new sticky fork feeling. I just realised this is my first aftermarket Rock Shox purchase in 15 years of mountain biking, I think it says a lot about how they have turned things around IMO.
How do we get past the new Rebound knobs to remove the lowers? Looks funky...
Btw do we still run 15cc of oil to lube the fork?
Thanks!
Btw do we still run 15cc of oil to lube the fork?
Thanks!
Looks like there are wrench flats on the side of the rebound assembly, so I'm guessing you line them up and unscrew it.
As for how much oil to put in, I'm thinking common sense should prevail on that one. it doesn't need to be an exact measurement, but just make sure you don't pour half the bottle in.
planning to take mine apart the next day or two to make sure there is actually oil in the lowers (there was no grease under the wipers). I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks for the help, looks like we need the thin wrench to fit in there.
Do we not have to remove the knobs first?
Let us know how it goes..
To make sure it has the correct amount of fluid inside. A few years ago my brand spanking new Boxxer World Cup came 100% dry
I expect it to be good for a couple weeks. But i like my stuff to work like new all the time and prefer not to wear out my seals/bushings in 3 months like some other people.
actually i think its absurd to expect a high-end, high-performance fork to be maintenance free, and even moreso to think you'd drop $1000 and treat it with that sort of neglect.
95% of problems people have with boxxer seals/bushings is the result of lazy consumers, not crappy products.
a lower leg oil change takes 5 minutes, keeping the dust wipers clean and lubed takes half that. Learn to love it, or enjoy riding klapped out sh*t
can't believe I need to change the engine oil in my Formula 1 race car every race. Shouldn't it go 10,000 miles between oil changes?
Anyway, people need to remember that they are buying high end race equipment. Just a little maintance will go a long way in keeping the performance at 100%. Like Lee said, 5 minutes to change the lube oil. I can do a whole rebuild on a pre 2010 boxxer in 30 minutes including taking it off the bike. I only ever needed to do that once a year since I changed the oil every few race weekends and didn't shoot a power washer into the seals. There is your tip of the day on forks, if your oil looks like choclate milk then you need to lay off the power washer.
Last edited:
I rebuild my forks before I even put them on the bike with proper amounts of oil and grease and polishing of all sliding surfaces....oh and I make sure to grease ALL the pinch bolts in the front end too.
But you shouldn't have to. I don't get the glee with which the folks above relish having to redo all the work the factory should have done but we can't trust to get it right.
Agreed we have to do it, but it shouldn't be part of the process. If I buy new forks or shocks for the motorcycle, I guaran-****ing-tee you that I don't have to rebuild them before they go on my ride.
Peace of mind? I rarely run my stuff stock anyway.
I would still check the bleed on the rear shock and double check the oil heights in the fork for a motorcycle, regardless if they're new.
I would still check the bleed on the rear shock and double check the oil heights in the fork for a motorcycle, regardless if they're new.
You'd be surprised. Dirty oil, contaminated fluids, etc. Unless you bought it directly from a suspension tuner and trust the work that was done, it doesn't hurt to check. Many suspension companies (i'll throw all the major ones under the bus since they've all had issues and do not have sixsigma numbers on assembly to prove otherwise) have been known to have various issues from improper oil levels in their forks, contaminants, no lube, loose nuts, poor bushing sizing/fitting, etc.
With mass produced products specifically it isn't a bad idea to double check things. Even though a bike comes "assembled" from the manufacturer a good shop (or smart person) will double check all the nuts / bolts etc.
If you can mitigate any risks (especially on a product you expect to perform well and trust your life in it) it's always a good thing. I'd rather double check things like this to make sure everything is safe and performing optimally than complain on the internet about how xyz isn't working right and assume it is junk since the manufacturer must know how to do everything properly. Sure we shouldn't have to but anyone who cares will do it imo.
Last edited:
What are you guys using to lube the wipers with? When I pull the lowers off I use slick honey, but it doesn't sound like you are doing that.
Kanter can we see a pic of this race truck?
Kanter can we see a pic of this race truck?
Last edited:
Throwin out the Sixsigma, my Quality professor would be proud.
a bit more on-topic:
got mine today....here it is
didn't have the right tools to remove the lowers (speacially that flat 20-something mm), but cycled the fork a couple of times putting some fork oil on the stanchions and it felt nicer. Can't wait to ride it on some real dh and see what all the fuzz about the new knobs is.
got mine today....here it is
didn't have the right tools to remove the lowers (speacially that flat 20-something mm), but cycled the fork a couple of times putting some fork oil on the stanchions and it felt nicer. Can't wait to ride it on some real dh and see what all the fuzz about the new knobs is.
Does anyone have any thoughts on the new Race? It was possible to make the old Race perform similar to the old Team. Can a person do the same mod (or a similar one) to the 2010 Race so that it would perform like an 09 Team?
hmmm, I didnt have to tear apart my race truck suspension the day I bought it.
All Im saying is it SHOULD be good to go from the factory. I can see rebuilding it in a few months of riding but before its even ridden is ridiculous.
Looks like my bud Adam took care of you. What they going on?
The race should have a similar comp damper to the 318 IS Domain. I think you can neither re/deshim nor de-floodgate it.
Did you mean 09 team or 10 team? if you meant 09 I would imagine you may be able to make the 10 race like an 09 team in the sence you can ad a nyloc nut on there in the motion control assembly. If you meant like upgrading the 10 race to a 10 team the only way you could do that is buy purchasing the parts because the rebound is totally different (10 team has beg and ending stroke) as is the misson control vs. the motion control.
Can someone tell me what size flat wrench is needed to take the rebound knobs off? I want to have it when my fork gets here because if there is no grease in there I don't even want to ride it till I get it greased. It may feel good before you grease it but if its like the old ones it will feel twice as good with grease.
Mine had the proper oil in the lower legs, but not under the wipers (at least not as much as i would use). So i packed some slick honey under there, greased the bushings a bit and put a bit more oil in the lowers. at the very last i'd suggest popping up the dust wipers. but the wrench you need is a 24mm, same one used on the top caps of previous boxxers.
as for removing the rebound adjuster assembly, make sure you turn the HSR fully CLOSED first otherwiseyou won't have enough rotation for it to disengage. in theory it should thread right back in the way it came out but i found it almost impossible to get the 6mm adjuster shaft to line up with the cartridge while rotationg when i reinstalled it. popping the c-clip off the LSR knob made it a piece of cake. plus, doing so from the get-go keeps all your settings intact.
I don't have the fork in hand yet but im pretty sure I understand what your saying... but do I need a 24mm flat wrench? Or can you take the c clip off then pull the adjusters off and use a 24mm socket?
Thanks
Thanks
just got mine and i love it! 