[Savage_Animal]

Ok well I am gathering together some parts for my suburban build and I am wondering if these light weight parts will still be durable for our type of riding.

1)For the heaset spacers, I am going to need two 5mm spacers, one on top of the stem and one on the bottom. Will these carbon fiber spacers crack? Or will they hold up?
http://www.danscomp.com/309046.php

2)Also I plan on getting two packs of these screws and replacing all 6 on my stem, one on my seat clamp, and four on my brake mount. Since there hollow, will they still have enough strength?http://www.danscomp.com/370915.php

3)This chain doesn't seem that durable, but it looks light and I have heard a lot about it, i am not going to be running a bash gaurd so I am wondering if this will hold up if I hit it a few times on accident: http://www.danscomp.com/464010.php?cat=PARTS#

4)For the headset I am wanting to go with this one because it is super light and clean looking, the CK ones cost a lot and have a bunch of ugly writing on them, but will this one hold up? http://www.ciariparts.com/headsets.html

 

[PhilipW]

ok, in order:
1. I havn't ever seen carbon headset spacers crack. You'd probably be fine.

2. Make sure that the bolts/threading are the same. Real bikes use Metric, and BMX uses standard (yes, I just denounced bmx bikes....hah hah )

3. I have the 710-SL...good chain. I know a few other people who run them, and they dont have many problems.

4. No idea about that headset, never heard of that BMX company before. I'm sure it works fine, its sealed. I personally run an FSA Pig DH, but its only because I've had the same headset for the last three years...

oh, and I ride primarily with bmx'ers who are ten times the rider I am...so...respect.

Also, make sure you dont get too light with the parts...I'd rather lug around an extra pound than have to wait for new parts to come in every week... (I just snapped my cranks sunday )

 

[Savage_Animal]

ok, in order:
1. I havn't ever seen carbon headset spacers crack. You'd probably be fine.

2. Make sure that the bolts/threading are the same. Real bikes use Metric, and BMX uses standard (yes, I just denounced bmx bikes....hah hah )

3. I have the 710-SL...good chain. I know a few other people who run them, and they dont have many problems.

4. No idea about that headset, never heard of that BMX company before. I'm sure it works fine, its sealed. I personally run an FSA Pig DH, but its only because I've had the same headset for the last three years...

oh, and I ride primarily with bmx'ers who are ten times the rider I am...so...respect.

Also, make sure you dont get too light with the parts...I'd rather lug around an extra pound than have to wait for new parts to come in every week... (I just snapped my cranks sunday )

Thanks for the help. The headset is $55 on DansComp so i may just be better off getting the Chris King heaset with the Ti base plate for $150 and loosing a few oz.

i also found another cool part, is this ok to put on my bike as well? http://www.danscomp.com/309010.php?cat=PARTS

 

[ThePriceSeliger]

That is just a plastic A-Headset topcap. Nothing special there, it's actually a bit gay. From what it sounds like, you're a bit new to the park/dirt game. There is NO need for a ChrisKing headset, EVER! They are smooth, I give them that, but how many times are you dirtjumping or park riding and mid-run say "Dang, the bearings in this are smooth but not smooth enough."

Just get an FSA Impact and you'll survive, I'm sure of it.

As for the headset spacers, I always thought the CF ones kind were lame. On Dans you can get colored headset spacers and they look really clean, I actually got some in today.

The chain is a good chain, light I'm sure. But if your going to question durability, don't get it. KMC makes a 1/8th chain without the holes in the plates and it is perfect.

Dans didn't have the screws up anymore, but it's not going to be a noticable amount of weight on your bike.

Also, if you are going to pay 20 bucks for a set of screws, why don't you run to the hardware store and get a 3 dollar can of spraypaint do it yourself. 20 bucks for some bolts? Damn!

 

[Savage_Animal]

That is just a plastic A-Headset topcap. Nothing special there, it's actually a bit gay. From what it sounds like, you're a bit new to the park/dirt game. There is NO need for a ChrisKing headset, EVER! They are smooth, I give them that, but how many times are you dirtjumping or park riding and mid-run say "Dang, the bearings in this are smooth but not smooth enough."

Just get an FSA Impact and you'll survive, I'm sure of it.

As for the headset spacers, I always thought the CF ones kind were lame. On Dans you can get colored headset spacers and they look really clean, I actually got some in today.

The chain is a good chain, light I'm sure. But if your going to question durability, don't get it. KMC makes a 1/8th chain without the holes in the plates and it is perfect.

Dans didn't have the screws up anymore, but it's not going to be a noticable amount of weight on your bike.

Also, if you are going to pay 20 bucks for a set of screws, why don't you run to the hardware store and get a 3 dollar can of spraypaint do it yourself. 20 bucks for some bolts? Damn!

Well the only reason i was looking into the CK headset was cause it would be super light with the Ti baseplate and i probly wouldn't have to ever replace it. but if you say its not needed, then I think I am just going to go with the Ciari one cause it looks super clean.

Can you replace the base plate on the Ciari headset with this Titanium one? http://www.chrisking.com/parts/baseplates.html

Also cabron fiber weave looks sick, if I was going to buy colored spacers i would buy cabron fiber ones anyway, plus i will save some weight.

Also whats wrong with the plastic headset cap? Why is it gay?

 

[formermtboarder]

since headset spacers weight nothing anyway (well under a gram Im sure), there no sense in buying cf ones...

 

[ThePriceSeliger]

I've never have seen them work super well because if your cranking down on your headset, I've seen them bend under stress. Nor look very clean clean. Anyways, your headset will come with one in the color you order it in.

If by baseplate you mean the race, probley not. Races are normaly specific to the headset, so the fork will sit correctly against the lower bearing.

What is the rest of the build like? I'm not getting on your case or anything, but if you're buying CF headset spacers to save weight, this bike must be something impressive.

 

[Savage_Animal]

I've never have seen them work super well because if your cranking down on your headset, I've seen them bend under stress. Nor look very clean clean. Anyways, your headset will come with one in the color you order it in.

If by baseplate you mean the race, probley not. Races are normaly specific to the headset, so the fork will sit correctly against the lower bearing.

What is the rest of the build like? I'm not getting on your case or anything, but if you're buying CF headset spacers to save weight, this bike must be something impressive.

Well thanks for the help, I'm just building up an NS Suburban and was looking into some new parts to get the thing dialed and to make up for the heavy ass Halo SAS wheel I'm rock'n in the back plus the 07 DJ 3 which will weigh more than the frame.

 

[ThePriceSeliger]

Don't get CF spacers then. Just get colored spacers from Dans. You can really find everything you are looking for there without paying out the ass. Just build a solid bike. You're bike is going to weigh a bit anyways. Don't start buying Ti and CF bits on small parts because the weight savings will be so small it won't be worth your money. Save yourself a pay check or two and go cheaper.

When you can scrape your pennis together build yourself a new wheel and go to the classifieds and get yourself a manitou gold lable fork. They are over a pound ligher than your fork.

 

[Savage_Animal]

Don't get CF spacers then. Just get colored spacers from Dans. You can really find everything you are looking for there without paying out the ass. Just build a solid bike. You're bike is going to weigh a bit anyways. Don't start buying Ti and CF bits on small parts because the weight savings will be so small it won't be worth your money. Save yourself a pay check or two and go cheaper.

When you can scrape your pennis together build yourself a new wheel and go to the classifieds and get yourself a manitou gold lable fork. They are over a pound ligher than your fork.

yeah I guess you are right about the Ti and CF, I really like how solid my wheel is though, its just my fork...

I was really considering getting a Rock Shox Argyle 318 Coil Fork but do you think I should go with the Gold label 2?

I do hear manitou is putting out some pretty sick components for 09 but idk if I can wait that long.

 

[ThePriceSeliger]

hey im in class on my cell phone right now but send me a PM. I have a lowered argyle for sale with a 20mm axle. 60mm travel.

 

[PhilipW]

If you're going to just be flowing trails, and not getting too nasty with the street type riding (spins, stair drops, barspins, wall rides/taps) go ahead for the Gold Label. It is like 1 lb lighter than the argyle, roughly. I am kind of partial to my arg 318, because it has been the only thing on my bike that hasnt outright broken...other than my frame (and headset!)

And remember, once you start really progressing those super light cranks/wheels/fork will have to hold up to you learning on them...

 

[t1maglio]

Chris King is coming out with "stealth" headsets. The writing is in a slightly lighter color then the cups, you can barely see the words, plus they look sweet. And if you have to use cuped headsets there is no other way to go then King, they are light, strong, and will last you forever (and have a warranty to back it up)

 

[Cru Jones]

Will these parts hold up?

Not if you're a savage animal on the bike.

 

[Savage_Animal]

hey im in class on my cell phone right now but send me a PM. I have a lowered argyle for sale with a 20mm axle. 60mm travel.

I sent you a pm. I'm interested.

But yeah I'm pretty tough on my forks, I think the DJ 3 I have right now has a loose crown or something and I blew out the air seal cause it won't hold air in it.

But you say the argyle is a durable fork?

 

[ThePriceSeliger]

Yes the argyle is very durable.

 

[FreeRide-Junkie]

The argyle is a nice fork. Are you going for durability, weight, or a blend of both?? Running those wheels and that fork right now I wouldn't be counting crams on things like races and spacers. Really not necessary. I would look into a new fork first. The Gold label is supposed to be a nice option, but I have no experience with them. For a light fork with a great feel I am running an '07 Marzocchi 4X WC lowered to 72mm. The thing is absolute money.