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Discussion in 'BMX & Dirt Jumping' started by colton, Oct 22, 2007.
hah hah :
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^^^^^Sketchiest QP ever. I would love to see a pic of someone airing it high and stylish though.
very interesting, step-up step-down situation. creative !
Ray's MTB- Milwaukee
That is very cool. Nice to see something other than a straight up box.
drew this for a different discussion, figured i'd post it here.... most people don't seem to talk about degrees of arc, but it seems pretty helpful. you could have a 6 foot tall ramp with 30 degrees for a long-distance sender... or 6 foot tall with 75 degrees for a trick booster....
the step ups look fun
So i've been toying with the idea of building a trick booter for the last couple off weeks. Its going to be used for dialing bigger tricks, backflips, tailwhips and what not. It will have a dirt landing. So far i've decided on a 60 degree lip, 4.2m radius making it 2.1m tall.
But i'm struggling with the plans and how much timber i will need. I could wing it and build it with no plans but i don't really want to waste money.
So does anyone have full plans around the same size as my one?
Any help would be appreciated.
wow . . this is a weird one !
Those are good dimensions . . . although you may want to ask yourself do you really need it almost 7 feet tall? I would recommend 5 or 5'6" tall for normal jumping. If you're practicing for Crankworx then yeah, do 7.
As for the plans . . . . just wing it ! Once you understand the principles of what you're doing, you can use more or less lumber depending on how sturdy/strong you want it to be. You'll need thick (3/4") sheets of ply for the sides (the templates/transitions) and thinner sheets of ply (typically 1/2") for the riding surface. After that, it's just a load of 2X4's and 2X6's for cross bracing.
These are old school ramp plans, but still highly relevant for understanding the basics of whatever ramp you're trying to build:
This is one is from Whistler:
Transition strips are laid after the tile underlayment is complete, and before you set the row which will finish the tile floor as it meets your existing wood floor. To allow for expansion, leave a gap between the wood and the Schluter strip of about 1/8". It's best to use some sort of spacers to set this gap, although you could certainly do it by eye.
CMC - I'm sure you have seen this but if not:
Looks like every set has that design you were putting down a few years ago. You can tell the place just works from the pics.
wow. resi-spine.... tranny grind box. wood roller... radness.
Frisco Bike Park, Colorado.
interesting step-up box jump with rounded-corner landing.... photo by AddomG