[demo 9]

Ok, first off, I HAVE SEARCHED. I cant find much. I am about to buy a banshee wildcard with a 1.5 headtube. (never had 1.5 before) I see a common trend in zerostack headsets and E13 cups. (right?) However, i want to know how all this relates to head angle, on DH bikes, you can slide the stanchions up and down as you please to slacken or steeping your HA, on a single crown fork (36 talas) you really cannot (without changing the travel) change the HA. In the 5 inch mode (i plan to run it in mostly) my choices are 67 or 68 HA.(depending on fork size)Id imagine that a zerostack headset would steepen the HA (alot?, not much?) and lower the BB height, a normal pressing 1 1/8th style would slacken the HA and raise the BB. This will be used mainly for 4x and slalom, with a tad of DJ and possibly XC. (pending) Do i follow the trend and slam the front and run flat bars or go "conventional" and ride the oldschool way. Also do i want slacker than 67 for bumpy 4x and dual slalom? Is steeper preferred in slalom and 4x?

I apologize if this has been asked 100 times but i could not find searching, and have no idea what to do.

***do not know what headset was used to measure geo on the wildcard***

 

[juanbeegas]

I can't answer any of your questions, but I can tell you that I had some frame/fork clearance issues when I ran a zero stack headset on my Wildcard. For your reference, it was a medium anno frame with FSA Orbit Z 1.5R and the fork was a Rockshox Pike 426. The travel adjust dial would hit the down tube. I had to run a Hope Stepdown to get clearance between the frame and fork.

 

[dagmz6s]

if there are clearance issues with forks try getting a normal cane creek XXc lower cup with a zero stack XXc upper cup. that way you have clearance for the fork, an additional 12mm of stack on the bottom of the headtube which will slacken you out a half degree if I remember right, and you will still be able to have your bars lower because you are running a zero stack on the top cup.

I would email banshee about what type of headset was used to measure, they are pretty good about responding to questions.

 

[climbingbubba]

to answer your original questions

it should steepen it 0.5 degrees when you go from a regular to a zero stack.

typical 4x bikes are between 68-69 degrees. 67 would work fine but not ideal but netiher is your frame.

if your running a talas 36 and will be running it in the 130 setting then just go with a regular headset. the frame will work perfect in that setting for what you want.

If you have a banshee hook up then look at the rampant. it would be the perfect bike for what you are describing.

 

[Tetreault]

you will most likely run into clearance issues with a zerostack, the point of running a zerostack on dh bikes is to lower the bar height, and not steepen the head angle (who wants a steeper dh bike?) the .5 of a degree wont make a noticeable enough difference in the ride especially with the risk of the fork hitting the down tube. you will most defiantly be better off just running the fork in the lowest travel setting and using a tradition 1.5 stepdown headset

as said above and in your other thread regarding the wildcard, the frame isn't optimal for what you are describing wanting to do with it, thus you are always going to run into problems making frankenstein style bikes.

Do i follow the trend and slam the front and run flat bars or go "conventional" and ride the oldschool way.

running flat or lower bars wont compensate for the h/a, use bars with rise and sweep that you are comfortable with on other bikes.

Also do i want slacker than 67 for bumpy 4x and dual slalom? Is steeper preferred in slalom and 4x?

i like a 69* for dj and 4x, the 67 will be a little steep but with this frame you will have to make sacrifices

best of luck with the build and hope that my input can give you some help.

 

[demo 9]

you will most likely run into clearance issues with a zerostack, the point of running a zerostack on dh bikes is to lower the bar height, and not steepen the head angle (who wants a steeper dh bike?) the .5 of a degree wont make a noticeable enough difference in the ride especially with the risk of the fork hitting the down tube. you will most defiantly be better off just running the fork in the lowest travel setting and using a tradition 1.5 stepdown headset

as said above and in your other thread regarding the wildcard, the frame isn't optimal for what you are describing wanting to do with it, thus you are always going to run into problems making frankenstein style bikes.


running flat or lower bars wont compensate for the h/a, use bars with rise and sweep that you are comfortable with on other bikes.



i like a 69* for dj and 4x, the 67 will be a little steep but with this frame you will have to make sacrifices

best of luck with the build and hope that my input can give you some help.

It has helped me alot, and my guess is that there will be a few(or many) more questions before it is done, i know this frame might not be ideal, and im not really going to get into it, but i have talked about it with a few close friends who know me and we all more or less agree that its the best idea for me. Any good step down recommendations?

 

[Bicyclist]

Run it with zero stack reducers to get the BB low, run the fork at the travel setting you like, and then worry about what bar/stem setup feels good. I wouldn't over-think it so much.