michelin tire recommendations?

mich only makes three DH tires (well ther are mud 3's but it is obvious what they are for)

comp 32- only comes in a 2.8 size. it is big and is best in rocky drier conditions where is sticks like a mofo. it will pack up badly in any soft sticky stuff.

comp 24- rounder profile and closer knob spacing make this a better dry conditions tire. it is mostly run as a rear tire as it does not have the greatest edge grip stock. can be made better (in all conditions in my opinion) by cutting the inner half of the shoulder knobs off, leaving a tire very similar to the high roller in apperance.

comp 16- square profile tire for softer conditions. has excelent edge grip on any surface where the knobs can sink in to but the same knobs tend to flex and squirm on hard pack especially in the larger size.

michelins run true to size. A 2.5 maxxis will be about the same or just a small touch larger than a 2.2 mich. 2.7 maxxis = 2.5 mich etc.

My conditions are very different than yours and i am sure that someone from a non rain state will chime in shortly but i would think that a cut comp24 in front and back would work well. change to a comp 16 in front for deep silt or a comp 32 for lots of big dry rocks.

edit; remember that the directional arrows on the michs are backwards for DH application. Turn them so the arrows point the wrong way, they work much better tthat way.

I run a Comp 16 front and a cut Comp 24 rear, and that combo's been great in rocky and loose conditions.

I have a comp32 2.8" front, but i would say there are better tires for hardpack. Also, it strikes me as somewhat small, it measures closer to a 2.55 than a 2.8 My old WTB timberwolves were wider, and they were a 2.5.

davep said:

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edit; remember that the directional arrows on the michs are backwards for DH application. Turn them so the arrows point the wrong way, they work much better tthat way.

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that was corrected last season.

Here's the Comp 24 and a pic of where to cut out the intermediate knob. Basicly when you look at the knobs, it's 1 set in from the outside ones and is only there every other row. Hope that helps.0


Also, the Comp 24 is VERY versatile. If you've cut the intermediate knob out and it rains or you just want to open the tread up even more, you can use a razor or wire cutters, end cutters, etc to slice the "=" right down the middle. It's called the siping knob and it will give you even more bite if you wind up riding loamy stuff. You can even groove the center paddle knob to resemble a High Roller.

It's 4 tires in 1 if you need it to be.

coma13 said:

Right on! Thanks for the pics... So Bizutch, you're saying if I'm running new Michy's I should have the directional arrow facing forward?

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yeah. they corrected on the casing a while back.

the easiest way to mount it correctly is to look down at the tire. When looking forward at the top of the tire, the paddle side of the center knob, not the ramped side should be facing toward you.

So, basicly in this photo you are looking at the bike from the front of the bike...make sense?

coma13 said:

Yup, makes perfect sense, the paddle shape in that orientation would you faster rolling and better braking as opposed to more climbing traction, correct?

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yup...and if you ever see it on Jeremy's bike..chances are he didn't pay any attention to orientation and I'll be pointing it out...:love:

If you are going to run tubeless, don't run the Stan's setup. The best setup with the Michelins are to use another Brand Name tubeless rim strip that is only $5. I am not going to say what brand, but you know who I am talking about. You will not have to run any crap in the tire like Stan’s uses. Helps save a little weight too. All you will need is a little soapy water to set the tire into the rim strip and put air in. It seals strong. I setup my tubeless on my 4x bike 4 weeks ago and ride 3 days a week. I have lost now air.

Hope this helps.

Running 16's on 721's w/maxxis strips I find that I still need sealent, as it's quite easy to puncture the tire casing.

@Bizutch

What do you use to cut the knobs like in the picture you posted?

hellonasty said:

@Bizutch

What do you use to cut the knobs like in the picture you posted?

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I use a very small pair of end clips.
They look regular clippers, but they clip at the top instead of the sides.
And SD is right up above. You can run Michelins without sealant and they will work, but all it takes is a single thorn to deflate your tire.
And if you use sealant, you will not have this problem.

FCLinder said:

If you are going to run tubeless, don't run the Stan's setup. The best setup with the Michelins are to use another Brand Name tubeless rim strip that is only $5. I am not going to say what brand, but you know who I am talking about. You will not have to run any crap in the tire like Stan’s uses. Helps save a little weight too. All you will need is a little soapy water to set the tire into the rim strip and put air in. It seals strong. I setup my tubeless on my 4x bike 4 weeks ago and ride 3 days a week. I have lost now air.

Hope this helps.

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I run the other brands rim strips as well, either that or UST, but sometimes I find it nice to have the Stans sealant in there just in case of a small puncture. It has saved me a couple of times.

The tech name is End Cutters. You can get them at any tool place, Home Depot, Northern Tool & Equipment etc.
They come in big, channel lock size and small palm size. I use the palm size b/c it is the exact same width as that particular knob. Wear a pair of gloves though or your palm will blister. It's not hard to cut...just the way you hold them puts it in the most tender part of your palm.

coma13 said:

I'm assuming you're talking about the sixxam rim strips right? are you using UST rims or non? I'll be running the tires on non-UST rims. will I still be able to do it without the gloop?

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Nope, the brand starts with a M. I am running Azonic Outlaws.

FCLinder said:

Nope, the brand starts with a M. I am running Azonic Outlaws.

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Try holding a mirror to his thread.... or sixxam backwards equals...

BTW my new pile of 16's and 24's that i just got last week all have the arrow on backwards.... just remember ramps hit dirt first and all will be well...

wasn't some one going to scan the tire cutting article from either dirt or decline??? That would be a cool reference. I know some of them but certainly not all or even most...
Or
anyone know what month/mag it was??

I just got the new Dirt and there is a section about the best DH tires on the market right now, and what conditions they're best for. Michelins are the first two listed.

I'm a huge fan of Maxxis strips with Stan's goo, works amazingly well. Much easier to set up than Stan's strips with Stans goo in my limited experience. (once I tried Maxxis strips I never went back, just order more Stan's goo)

I wish I could run michelins, but alas it seems as if that I even look at them , they crack.

sorry but if all cut away this blocks, way michelin pruduced this agin???

eater said:

sorry but if all cut away this blocks, way michelin pruduced this agin???

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what? Are you trying to ask "Why is the intermediate knob on the tire if you don't need it?" If you are, the reason it is there is because on dry hardpack, it grips better. It also serves to keep the outside knobs from flexing excessively on hardpack.

yes.. thanks for answer.